franchi

Hi All:

Is there anybody adding a synthetic oil to their castor based Diesel fuel to prevent a build up varnish and carbon in their Diesel engines? If so does it help keep the engine cleaner?

Opinion?
Franchi

qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

Frank, it's probably not strictly necessary for your ST G20/15D or MVVS D7 15, but over here Castor Blends aka "enhanced Castor" is popular now that the old standard, Castrol M castor isn't available. .

A good one is Klotz Benoil known colloquially as "bean oil". There are a few other similar brands intended for Cart racing. Most seem pretty good with the older Iron piston/Steel liner diesels. Cleans the engine safely it seems.

The Benoil comes from the US.

Adding about 0.2% Lubrizol 52 to the kero also helps the engine clean of soot when using pure Castor. There's a long thread on it and this topic on this forum somewhere.

Edit here it is: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/ever...-lubrizol.html

The 100% synthetic oils clean up the old engines very well but cause very rapid wear engines.

earlwb

There was someone who ran some tests with Cox .049 engines using synthetic and castor oil. He found that the ball and socket joint on the piston to connecting rod had less wear using synthetic oil than it did with castor oil. I think that synthetic oil offers the best lubrication with the engines. But castor oil burns at a higher temperature than synthetic oil does. So it tends to protect in lean runs better than synthetic oil does. So if someone wants to use synthetic there isn't anything really wrong with it. But with old lapped iron piston types of engines it is probably much more wise to just stick with castor oil with them. But newer modern engines would probably work better with synthetic oil instead. Tough call as to which one to use. So maybe a blend of both some synthetic and some castor for the oil mix. best of both types then.

Chris W

As I understand it castor has the ability to transfer heat better at higher temperatures and combine that with the inability of cast iron to release it and its not that hard to see why the two go together so well.

Newer alloy based engines do not have the residual heat legacy of iron to deal with and so respond better to synthetics.

But I can also see that the more severe the taper on the liner (and therefore the pinch) the better castor may work.

It is the detergent component in synths that clean up castor formed lacquer and gives the impression of accelerated wear when an engine changes oil allegiances and some flyers report that all that is needed to keep castor lacquer at bay is a run at the end of a season with synth oil to clean the pipes out - not the every time use of oil hybrids.