Sharms diesel indian made
10-06-2015, 03:37 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Polk city, FL
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sharma diesel indian made
Hi
I bought a couple of the Sharma diesels.
Here is a very short vid of a 3.2CC RC DIESEL.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U8_...ature=youtu.be
I tried to drag and drop a pic in another post titled sharms engine etc. failed
I have been trying to find a way to set this little beast to run and use the RC throttle, not successful.
THe carb lacks an idle mix adjust and or an air bleed so the engine runs rich at low speeds.
This means if the main is set very lean at open throttle you can come close to a setting that will allow you to slow the engine down which means the wide open setting is very lean.
I found on several tries that I was way too lean and the engine did slow down because of the lean condition.
How ever this engine is available as a CL type engine and it is a screamer. LOTS of power.
I also bought their 1.5 cc CL type diesel engine. It ran very well.
The 09 engine is on loan to my older bro who is putting together a CL kit for the first time in 60+ years. When I get that engine back I will post a vid.
So if you go on http://aeromodelsupermarket.com/9-diesel-engines
you can see the engines. I would recommend emailing them for the correct charges for shipping to the US.
I did and they shipped promptly and the package came in the 7 days they claimed after shipping.
I paid py Paypal and there was no issue.
I also bought the full range of their propellers. Not recommended by me.
The props were pretty far out of balance, although they looked good.
I decided to add a bypass air hole.
This is a #59 drilling that meets the throttle barrel hole when the throttle is about 1/2 open.
Moderate success.
The engine does not need a very lean setting to get to idle but the engine still loads up with lube oil and the throttle needs to be eased open to get back to full throttle.
I am considering going up from a #59 drill
I bought a couple of the Sharma diesels.
Here is a very short vid of a 3.2CC RC DIESEL.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U8_...ature=youtu.be
I tried to drag and drop a pic in another post titled sharms engine etc. failed
I have been trying to find a way to set this little beast to run and use the RC throttle, not successful.
THe carb lacks an idle mix adjust and or an air bleed so the engine runs rich at low speeds.
This means if the main is set very lean at open throttle you can come close to a setting that will allow you to slow the engine down which means the wide open setting is very lean.
I found on several tries that I was way too lean and the engine did slow down because of the lean condition.
How ever this engine is available as a CL type engine and it is a screamer. LOTS of power.
I also bought their 1.5 cc CL type diesel engine. It ran very well.
The 09 engine is on loan to my older bro who is putting together a CL kit for the first time in 60+ years. When I get that engine back I will post a vid.
So if you go on http://aeromodelsupermarket.com/9-diesel-engines
you can see the engines. I would recommend emailing them for the correct charges for shipping to the US.
I did and they shipped promptly and the package came in the 7 days they claimed after shipping.
I paid py Paypal and there was no issue.
I also bought the full range of their propellers. Not recommended by me.
The props were pretty far out of balance, although they looked good.
I decided to add a bypass air hole.
This is a #59 drilling that meets the throttle barrel hole when the throttle is about 1/2 open.
Moderate success.
The engine does not need a very lean setting to get to idle but the engine still loads up with lube oil and the throttle needs to be eased open to get back to full throttle.
I am considering going up from a #59 drill
Last edited by dkwflight; 10-10-2015 at 01:16 PM. Reason: correct mistakes
10-10-2015, 01:21 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Polk city, FL
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi
After 1.5 liters fuel through the engine and a #55 drill bleed air in the carb.
I am making progress with this engine getting it to idle without going very lean on the main needle.
The mix still needs to be lean but not nearly so.
Extended idleing will still load up but it will idle.
The idle speed is still fast.
The quality of the engine is good. cylinder and piston machining is good. the engine really needs little break in.
The main problem is the carb.
The control line version should be a screamer. Fast and easy starting.
After 1.5 liters fuel through the engine and a #55 drill bleed air in the carb.
I am making progress with this engine getting it to idle without going very lean on the main needle.
The mix still needs to be lean but not nearly so.
Extended idleing will still load up but it will idle.
The idle speed is still fast.
The quality of the engine is good. cylinder and piston machining is good. the engine really needs little break in.
The main problem is the carb.
The control line version should be a screamer. Fast and easy starting.
10-11-2015, 12:55 AM
#3
The video from the factory shows the problem "very well" too; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnU7DUYLCII
It is a pity that they cannot bother to make a proper carb, it would have been very easy for them to incorporate a low end adjustment in their design.
The best for you might simply be too fit another carb, e.g. Enya or ASP (if you want a twin needle carb).
In order to get a leaner mid range and more gradual change than the air-bleed that suddenly opens, you can also change the diameter of the carb above the throttle barrel. I the bore is made slightly larger above the barrel it will effectively close after the opening below the barrel, and hence reduce the fuel draw at lower revs (while at full throttle it will not do anything).
It is a pity that they cannot bother to make a proper carb, it would have been very easy for them to incorporate a low end adjustment in their design.
The best for you might simply be too fit another carb, e.g. Enya or ASP (if you want a twin needle carb).
In order to get a leaner mid range and more gradual change than the air-bleed that suddenly opens, you can also change the diameter of the carb above the throttle barrel. I the bore is made slightly larger above the barrel it will effectively close after the opening below the barrel, and hence reduce the fuel draw at lower revs (while at full throttle it will not do anything).
Last edited by Mr Cox; 10-11-2015 at 12:57 AM.
10-11-2015, 06:01 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Polk city, FL
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi
I am sure they are very aware of the problem.
A better carb is the cure.
My bypass drilling is not the answer tho is does better,
I have now a very fast idle that lasts a little longer. it still needs a gradual close and opening.
I think I will buy a PAW carb for a 19 and see how that works out. A carb from a norvel 15 is an option too. I have a Norvel carb to try but I suspect the top end will be over carbed similar to the Davis conversions problems.
I am sure they are very aware of the problem.
A better carb is the cure.
My bypass drilling is not the answer tho is does better,
I have now a very fast idle that lasts a little longer. it still needs a gradual close and opening.
I think I will buy a PAW carb for a 19 and see how that works out. A carb from a norvel 15 is an option too. I have a Norvel carb to try but I suspect the top end will be over carbed similar to the Davis conversions problems.
10-11-2015, 06:21 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Polk city, FL
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi
I am sure they are very aware of the problem.
A better carb is the cure.
My bypass drilling is not the answer tho is does better,
I have now a very fast idle that lasts a little longer. it still needs a gradual close and opening.
I think I will buy a PAW carb for a 19 and see how that works out. A carb from a norvel 15 is an option too. I have a Norvel carb to try but I suspect the top end will be over carbed similar to the Davis conversions problems.
I am sure they are very aware of the problem.
A better carb is the cure.
My bypass drilling is not the answer tho is does better,
I have now a very fast idle that lasts a little longer. it still needs a gradual close and opening.
I think I will buy a PAW carb for a 19 and see how that works out. A carb from a norvel 15 is an option too. I have a Norvel carb to try but I suspect the top end will be over carbed similar to the Davis conversions problems.
10-11-2015, 11:48 AM
#6
The Norvel .15 carb is very restrictive and might work very well in a diesel engine. The carb is a little deceptive as the bore is quite large but the spraybar is also large, making the effective area rather small for a .15 glow engine. The Norvel engine will idle very low, dead steady around 2500rpm, but the top end suffers and that has given the glow engine a somewhat bad reputation.
10-11-2015, 12:05 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Polk city, FL
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Here is a vid with the Norvel carb second run. No fine tuning done yet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj2q...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj2q...ature=youtu.be
10-12-2015, 08:36 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Polk city, FL
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi I am still playing with the engine.
My latest vid shows considerable improvement.
I set this to Sharma no response https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JsPLy1c-3I
My latest vid shows considerable improvement.
I set this to Sharma no response https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JsPLy1c-3I
