wvarn1957

My Feedback: (3)

After " lurking" around this forum for the last couple of months to find out what diesels were all about, I decided to get my feet wet and try it out. I made a head al la AJCOHOLIC. It isn't nearly as pretty as most of the work I have seen here, but I believe it will be functional. All the equipment I have is a mini-lathe and a rickety old, old drill press, so I am somewhat equipment and skill limited. I hope to have a mill sometime in the near future. Every thing is finished on the 60 except for installing the O rings, just waiting on the mail man.

I have really enjoyed this forum and have learned considerably. If the 60 works I think I will try my ST 3000. The 3000 is on gas and CH ignition with a Walbro carb. Has anyone used a walbro for diesel?

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Hey that looks great! Adds some height to the engine, eh? I am going to try running a single O ring in my heads now to get the contra height, and therefor the head height down a bit. But I allways thought two o rings would provide a better seal, if one started to go. But with a single, just carry a spare in the flightbox.

I also have never tired a large engine conversion, and want to try one badly. I am looking to buy a used 1.20 or something close to convert.

SInce diesel and gas oline are fairly close in the ratio of fuel/air I think it should work OK, and the rubber parts shouldnt be any worse for wear either. Try it and see!

AJC

maxtenet

Looks awesome! Once you get the bug, you'll start to convert everything, maybe even your weedeater and lawnmower!

Have fun!

Max

AMB

thats neat (really neat)
if this keeps up glow fuel consumption will take a big drop who knows maybe go the the pumps gas, #2 diesel, and model diesel
Also you guys have it all over the peons like me your all pro machinists...
I think my next purchase will be a minnie lathe at harbor ft and see how much scrap I can
generate martin

dennis

My Feedback: (90)

Andrew at the risk of repeating myself, get a Tartan, the things are cheap on the bay, Heck I have 5/6 of them and you really can't wear them out. Nicest motor to convert and run that you'll ever buy, it has 2 huge main ball bearings and roller bearings on the rod, 2 rings and reed induction. Needs really low oil content to run reliably.
Otherwise the Super Tigre motors from 2300 to the 2k-3k series are really good bulletproof motors.
Just be prepared for some tremendous stump pulling power coupled with incredable sub 1K ideling speeds and of course a dramatic reduction in the larger glow motors voracious appitite for fuel. Oh and did I mention that larger props can and do get expensive really quickly

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Oh yes, I fly a lot of gasoline engines in my big planes (60cc, 66cc twin, 69cc and had up to a 104cc one season) I have a ood supply of big props.

I also made a prop carving machine and make my own - its a lot cheaper

AJC

wvarn1957

My Feedback: (3)

Well, I finally obtained the right size O rings for the contra piston. The first I ordered were too large, my mis measurement. Since the rain finally stopped I got a chance to try the engine. A friend gave me some "Old English" fuel he had, and I gave it a try. The first run was with a 13 X 6, and it fired right up. I couldn't find the right combination of compression and mixture to get it to run stable. Did manage to get it fairly stable at the top end enough to get an rpm reading of 8800. I decided to try a larger prop, but all I had was an old 14 X 8 TopFlite. No problem on restarting but still couldn't find the right combo to get a good low end and transition to wot. I did manage to get stable enough at the top to get 8500 on the tach. I can see that I have a lot to learn about tuning a diesel. Sound is so much different than glow or gas that I could never really tell when the needle was rignt. I have a carburator with a smaller bore so I think I'll try that. Also I'm not sure about the "Old English" fuel, the lable indicates it is blended for the PAW engines. If anyone has any suggestions, I would sure appreciate them.

Mitty

wvarn,great lurking head.How did you mark the head bolt holes acurately?

Motorboy

Easy, use the vernier caliber, dividing head and drill press to make bolt holes acurately.

Jens Eirik

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

AJ, the head you made for my MDS 1.48 is a single O-ring and works very well, I have it on a Hangar 9 UltraStick Lite with an IronBay Regulator and a Bisson Pitts. As you can see I used the original MDS remote needle, they stand up to fuel pressure and don't leak. I mounted the Iron Bay where the SuperTigre highspeed needle was and blocked the stock fuel inlet with a 4-40x1/4 in screw. I used a ST carb for the smaller STs due to its fat spray bar reducing the venturi area. A perfect combination.

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Allthough the single ring works, I like the added security (so to speak) of duel rings and do the heads all like that now. Remember if you ever want a refit let me know, no cost

I use a rotary table in my mill to drill the head bolt holes. Thats why I need the original head, in order to set up the spacing. You can never get as good laying out by hand, as you can with a rotary table - allthough it can be done, its so much faster with the RT..

AJC

Mitty

AJC,What mill/lathe do you use?CNC? How big?
Curiocity...

Mitty

Motorboy

When i am making own cylinderhead, i am not using CNC. Use dividing head, indexing head, rotary table as Ajcoholic used to make bolt holes. First i am using the old cyl.head to set right radius from center to bolt hole. Then calculate how much turn and how much holes at indexing plate to drill 4, 5, 6 holes as original cyl.head.

See at "FIGURE 2--INDEXED METHOD, Drilling a precise hole pattern." in the site http://www.sherline.com/3200inst.htm

Jens Eirik

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

CNC? No way! I have a 60 yr old 12"x48" Canadian made engine lathe, and two manual mills. A smaller one with a 1/3 hp motor and my new mill drill that has a 1 1/2 HP motor and a table approx 28" by 8"

I have a lot of old tools, and am allways looking to buy good used stuff. But I did spring for digital readouts for my lathe last year...

Been doing this as a hobby (model engineering) for about 10 yrs now.

AJC

Mitty

That's way too cool! I was looking in to buying a 3-in-1 smithy one day as a main hobby machine for all my needs.It's a lathe,drill press and mill in one.Of course now i can't do it but one of these days...

You machinist guys, what do you think about 3-in1 machines ?Is it a good investment?

Motorboy

3 in 1 machine has limitation in place and can not use all tool as you want to make. I had 3-1 machine and i was not satisfied then i sold the 3-1 machine. I bought the lathe, drill press and maked own milling machine, lapping machine and dividing head.

Photo of homemade milling machine. You can see which parts i used when i builded own milling machine.

Jens Eirik

ProBroJoe

Mitty,

I've had a Smithy 3-in-1 (Granite 1324) for almost two years now and am very satisfied. So far, it's done all that I have asked of it, and has done it well. It may have a few built-in limitations, but I knew it was going to be comprimise before I bought the machine. I wanted to get into metalworking, but didn't have the space for 3 separate machines (my shop is in the laundry room) and knew I wasn't going to be building anything ridiculously big, so a 3-in1 was a good choice for me.

Are 3-in-1 machines capable of model engineering work? Sure, in addition to the many steam and stirling engines I've built, I've also built a two operational gas and diesel engines on my Smithy (see "Midge" threads in this forum) and I know of at least two others who've done similar model engineering work. Heck, one of the guys builds 1/4 scale (.22 cal) Gatling guns with his Smithy!

Now, at the risk of contradicting myself, I'll be first to admit that I've stopped relying on public forums for product reviews or opinions on anything that I'm planning to buy. Let's face it, people are brand/product loyal and it doesn't always mean that they are correct - be it Chevy -vs- Ford -vs- Dodge, or ZDZ -vs- BME -vs- DA... the end result is the same, you'll have people on both sides of the fence either ranting or raving about it. Bottom line is, there is no right answer, you will have to be comfortable with the decision you make yourself.

Ask yourself what your intentions are, read up on the subject, and make an intelligent decision based on facts.

Sorry for the rant...

Hope some of this helps,

-Joe

capin

My Feedback: (11)

It's funny that this discussion is here, I have a milling machine and lathe seperate and a family member has the 3 in 1 and it seem's easier to me to make my head's and other engine part's on my tool's then the 3 in 1! just my opinion!!

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

If I had no other option, I would get a good 3 in 1... but given the option to have a separate mill and lathe, I would say definitley the better choice. If nothing but for being able to work on two parts simultaneously without disturbing the set up.

ACtually, now that I have two mills I often find myself working on two separate things at the same time.

But, you need the room and it costs more for separate machines.

Here is my set up. You see my lathe, beside it the smaller mill and across the lathe the larger mill/drill. I have just a small section of my 4000 square foot woodworking shop (my real job) for my machine tools. I also have a drill press, a metal cutting band saw and a bead blasting cabinet that you cannot see (behind me as I took this photo. I also have a small foundry furnace (propane fired) and the related sand, tools, etc that take up space. It would be impossible for me to do all this and have all this stuff if I had to have it at home...

AJC

Mitty

AJC,and you building replica engines using JUST these machines? I saw some of your work...Pretty impressive!

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Well, I built many engines even before I had my mill - using the verticalmilling attachement for the lathe. You woudl be surprised what you can do with basic tools, given the drive to want to do it

Tools still dont "make" things... they allow you to do things faster, maybe more efficiently and a little more accurate but you can really do some cool things with even a basic lathe only...

AJC

ProBroJoe

Exactly... I'd even go as far to say that finished projects are 80% man and 20% machine.

Now, that being said, would I take a separate lathe and milling machine over the Smithy? Heck yea, and I'm sure when I get into a bigger shop, I'll do just that.

I never said using a 3-in-1 to make parts is "easier" than separate machines... but some cool things can be (and have been) made on 'em.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/ML_Midge_%258_cc_diesel/m_2300658/tm.htm]ML Midge .049 ci diesel (Link 1)[/link]

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Midge_%25049ci_%2F_%258cc_diesel_%2D_UPDATE%21/m_2343841/tm.htm]ML Midge .049 ci diesel (Link 2)[/link]

-Joe

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Joe,
I totally 100% agree with you man! Even with $20,000 worth of top notch equipment, a person who really doesnt want to build an engine will not succeed... but give a determined guy a $200 basic old beater lathe (like what I started on) and you will be amazed at what can be made.

You made a sweet engine on the machine you have, no doubt about it. I am sure you will make many more in the future!

I allways recommend to people trying to start off in the hobby to start small, cheaply and if they like it then start thinking about investing in a larger lathe, allways look for used stuff first IMO.

I know a few guys who have some really nice equipment that never gets used. A real shame, as I also know fellows who would really appreciate a lathe and use it a lot that just dont have the $$ to afford even a cheap one.

AJC

capin

My Feedback: (11)

You are correct AJ, if you want to win the machine's will not stop you, they just help in the process but I've found they are more fun to play with! Brian

Motorboy

I maked my first modelengine with very small lathe Emco unimat-3, it was not easy. After first engine was maked then it was easier to make next engine cause better knowledge how to use lathe and make better modelengine. I used same lathe to milling work and i maked own tools to produce parts.

It is not enough, i am casting crankcase, it is easier than solid material to work out to a complete crankcase.

Jens Eirik