RDJeff

My Feedback: (11)

Yep, that's been my experience with them. The engine seemed fine until I mounted it up and gave it a flick. It clunks a bunch! I took the end cover off, and can actually see movement of the rod on the pin.

22 GBP might be doable, thanks for that info!

culver

Whatever you do, do not use an electric starter on it or any diesel. You will inevetibly bend the rod when it gets to much fuel and partially hydraulic locks. Been there, done that.

scottyo

Hmm... just happen to have one for sale: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2434926

macmac

Does anybody know if Enya diesels are choosy about the fuel mixture ?

Enya´'s operating instructions say 25 % castor oil, kerosene 37-36 %, Ethyl ether 37-36 %, amyl nitrate 1-3 %.
My mixture made for PAW engines is 25 % castor oil, kerosene 40 %, ethyl ether 33 % and amyl nitrate 2 %.
However Enya SS30 diesel did not start when using my mixture. Ran only a bit with too much compression. Of course runing was then too heavy.

Mr Cox

I only have .11 ones from Enya but they run fine on the same fuel as the PAW engines. Perhaps you simply need a larger prop for the SS30 engine.

steve111

I use basically the same blend in most of my diesels (except for 1.5 - 2% DII rather than amyl nitrate); both my SS25 and SS30 start and run fine on it. I find getting a good setting is harder with them than many other engines, though - perhaps I need to experiment more with ignition improver.

macmac

OK. Thanks for this info. It is possible that I used perhaps accidentally wrong made mixture. I have my fuel in 0.5 liter metal cans, 1 liter glass bottles and in 5 liter aluminium storage can. Maybe it is worth open another fuel can and give it a try.

By the way the propeller is12 x 6 APC. The recommmendation is 12 x 7.

Mr Cox

I think the recommendation is 12x7-13x6, so you are indeed just below the recommended range. No big deal I guess but it might be worth trying a 13x6 instead. A larger prop will require a lower compression ratio. The Enya diesels are not just a conversion head on their glow engines, they also have different timings and are not really meant to be set up for revs above 10000rpm, I believe.

Ken Lilja

Not that I have any great experience with diesel enya engines (2 locked up sitting a divorce) might an extra 1% ignition improver make up to the small difference in ether?
Ken

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

The 12 x 6 APC might be a bit light for first runs. Up the blade area and weight and you should have joy . Graupner Super Nylon props fit the bill. Your fuel should be fine if its been kept well capped.

macmac

No result today, it tried to start but after that nothing. I will get a bigger propeller soon. I wondfer if Enya gets easlily too much fuel (over flooded?) and the would not start during the next hour. I tried to pour all fuel out of the engine via mufler and air intake.

qazimoto

My Feedback: (1)

Can I suggest the following:

#1 Back the compression right off.

#2 Take off the muffler.

#3 Disconnect the fuel.

#4 Wash the engine out with 100% kero and drain out the exhaust port.

#5 Then turn the prop till the exhaust port is closed and prime with your fuel against the piston.

#6 Turn the engine over three times by hand.

#7 flick hard.

#8 If it doesn't fire increase compression slightly

#9 Goto #5 and repeat , until it fires.

#10 Then increase compression slightly between port primes till bursts are strong.

#11 Reconnect fuel from tank with needle almost closed, port prime and increase needle opening until constant running results.

If none of this works then there's something wrong with your fuel.

steve111

They're not especially prone to flooding, but if any significant amount of fuel came pouring out of the muffler and air intake, then yes, it was flooded, big time. A couple of choked turns is usually enough to get them to start, but I'd suggest you start out by following qazimoto's advice.

I know Enya recommend a bigger prop, but I've generally been running a 10x6 or 11x6 on mine (it's still only a .30 after all). Starting hasn't been a problem.

Steve

Recycled Flyer

I think that if you flooded a large diesel it would be difficult in the extreme to get past TDC, prop size regardless.

steve111

Why?

Recycled Flyer

I get the impression that I am going to learn something here - but hydraulic lock comes to mind, with the accompanying slice of the fingers against the back of the prop.

123Cat

A 60 must be hellish , my 1.5's are bad enough

steve111

Well, if it's hydraulically locked, a big diesel is no different to a little one. Not just 'difficult in the extreme' to get past TDC, but by definition impossible. But 'flooded' can just be 'too wet to start' without actually being hydraulically locked, and in that regard a big diesel (again) behaves much like a smaller one.

Recycled Flyer

Thanks Steve.

steve111

No worries mate. My experience, for what little it's worth, is that the big ones don't flood as easily anyway. A drop too much prime in a big PAW is hardly noticed, whereas in a Schlosser it makes a big difference.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

When I first hand started my big MERCO .61 diesel, my arm ached afterwards. The large ones takes more of a full 'golf swing' movement to flick and you really feel it heaving over props 14" and bigger.

Luckily, now I have the settings it starts pretty readily.

I had a PAW .60 many moons ago. It started easily. Truly a big, friendly lump. Not a lot of power but great for big, light, OT's.

macmac

Good news ! Enya SS30 diesel started finally. I do not really know what was the problem earlier. The propeller is now APC 13 x 6. The fuel is the same as before (PAW mixture made by me). The only difference is that I turned the idle setting screw totally closed. Even though the engine runs on rich settings the cylinder head feels surprinsingly hot, so I ran it only 3 minutes at a time and let it cool between the runs. Enya diesel owners, do your engines feel very hot ? If possible I run engines in on the plane. So all screws etc. will be tested during running in.

Mr Cox

I think the exhaust residues are a better measure of temperature, rather than simply touching the head with your fingers. If the exhaust residues are not dark, then you are probably fine.
On the Enya .11CX I was sometimes tuning it too lean, this is harder to notice on an ABC engine (like the Enyas) compared to iron/steel, as ABC engines just keeps on running anyway. With experience you will hear from the exhaust note though if they are a little too lean and it is better to tune them a little richer with a lower compression setting.

macmac

Thanks for your comment Mr Cox, but Rather interesting. According to my experience not all the residue coming out of model diesel engine is dark, but part of it is. Off course many parameters effect on that. So I guess that if the major part of the exhaust residue is not dark I am probably doing fine (?).

Mr Cox

Well, I mostly run smaller engines myself and there I don't like to see any dark residue at all. Only when/if I push them a little bit more will the residue turn dark, and then I try to stay away from that. Larger engines may well run hotter by default, I have an Irvine .20 ABC that does tend to have a darker exhaust.

On engines with a tommy bar it is easier though to keep track of the compression setting, and then be sure that one doesn't go past a certain compression ratio.

The Enya head may well feel hotter to the touch compared to other engines, as it has no cooling flanges, so the actual running is probably the best test. The compression setting needs to be set at full throttle and the low end can be set richer to avoid too much missing. If the compression setting is set for a good idle there is a risk of having too much compression at full throttle.