gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

I have an AE 0.1 cc. I finally decided to give it a try. I got it to pop over few times for several seconds, but I think it was all prime. It seems that the recommended 2.5 turns out on the needle is incorrect, as it would not draw fuel. The needle itself has almost no taper, being only 0.1mm narrower at the tip. The needle is a sloppy fit in the threads. This shows up as allowing quite variable flow when blowing through the fuel line. I'm curious if the needles on these are typically like this. I have a needle assembly and venturi from a Super Tigre that used a separate idle venturi thats just about the right size. it might find it's way onto the AE if i can't get it running on the original needle. I might try tapering the stock needle first.

ffkiwi

Greg here's my as yet unrun example-does yours have the same needle? Note also the fuel tube seal around the needle-my needle valve is certainly airtight, and quite stiff to move. None of the little ones are in the Mills 75 or MP Jet Classic category when it comes to starting........ NZ experience (word of mouth admittedly) says that both the AE 0.1cc and 0.2cc are a bit 'tricky' to operate. I'll be posting some micro diesel rpm figures here in the not too distant future-VA Bambi 0.15cc, VA Elfin 0.25cc, VA ED Baby 0.25cc, Rustler Tadpole 0.25cc. Currently running in the Tadpole-which while certainly not in the beginners category for starting is a lot better than the original Frog 50 Mk1 on which it is based.

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

The needle looks the same but almost no taper. I think the engine will run if I can get the needle sorted. Blowing through the fuel line shows almost no change in flow until the needle is out of the orifice. I think I'll attempt to taper the needle first.

ffkiwi

Greg-there's definitely more taper on my needle tip! I think you're on the right line-trying to taper yours more.I've just checked the needle and its a slightly undersize 2mm (1.95mm dia) A 2mm machine screw (2x0.4) thread is a nice fit in the jet assembly thread. You can get 2mm stuff from www.microfasteners.com should you need to make a new needle. I think you're on the right track with your taper issue-I can blow air through the jet at 1 turn open, and get a good airflow at 2 turns open

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Greg and Chris,

I've run mine up on several occasions. I'll try to get a photo of the NV but won't be till later.
I seem to recal the loose fit of the nv and remember you can change the mixture just thinking about putting your hand on the nv

but once started it returns 17k on a cox .010 prop = just have a small bottle of fuel handy to top off the useless little fuel tank while it runs.

While starting, mine has a tendency to throw the prop off and a search and rescue mission ensues to find the prop nut/washer - think I'm just to much of a wimp tightening the prop nut

This was my first diesel engine - bought it because it was so cute - didn't know that it would lead to hard core use - should have listened better to Mama.

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks, guys! I was going to check the needle thread to see what it was. I have some M2 screws around if I need to go that route. Overall I'm not impressed with the quality. The screws appear to be filed to length. There is about 1mm of endplay in the crank. And an equal amount of clearance between the crankpin and backplate. I'm going to fix all the issues before trying to run it again. I was thinking that while making a new backplate I would make a larger tank. I could have sworn I drained it trying to get it started.

I scaled a Speed 400 size Telemaster plan I drew up about ten years ago down to about 24" for this engine. That whopping 7 watts of raw power should be enough.

ffkiwi

I only acquired mine quite recently (second hand but unrun-[deceased estate]). The instructions could be better-a small hand typed slip of paper along with the same std instruction leaflet for the whole AE range. I think I'll initially run mine on the 4.5x2 Cox-I think the recommended 010 size prop is under propping it, based on my extensive experience with the other small diesels. I'm thinking of putting mine in a 'Japp'-a 20" Tom Prukner design that was a free plan in Aeromodeller about 1967-ish, originally for the TD 010 and Webra Picco proportional radio. I built one for CO2 many years ago which flew well.

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

I was expecting some comment on fuel for the little engine, but mine includes only the slip noting the 3x1.25 cox prop and directions for the spring starter.

Jim Thomerson

I don't have one. I have the AE 0.5 cc diesel, and the 0.5 cc Drone replica. Both are broken in and start and run well on Eric Clutton fuel. Neither is in an airplane, so I am restraining myself on small diesels until I get them flying. I have intentions for both of them.

74SEVEN7

This was my first diesel engine - bought it because it was so cute - didn't know that it would lead to hard core use - should have listened better to Mama.

Its a well established fact that Diesel's of 0.5cc and smaller are much more difficult to operate, even for experienced Diesel users. The two main testers of model engines in the 50's & 60's (Peter Chinn and Ron Warring) constantly spoke of this problem, especially with engines like the DC Bambi, FROG 50 etc. My point is that, if the "old hands" had trouble, there can be major problems for a first-time Diesel user of such a small capacity engine. According to one of the Australian distributors of these tiny A.E.'s, quite a few were returned damaged, as a result of ham fisted and inexperienced operators. Its a strange quirk of Diesel's, that engines in the .75cc to
2.5cc size range are normally the easiest to operate. I know that things have improved a little these days (due mainly to better production techniques) but the tiny Diesel's can still be pigs to start, as well as much easier to damage internally, usually by hydraulic locks snapping crank pins & rods. The aforementioned Davies Charlton Bambi (0.015cc) was, for a long time, the smallest capacity Diesel in the World, but eventually it was withdrawn from production as it was regarded as an "experts" engine, costing more to manufacture than the other DC's in the range, the .5cc Dart, the .75cc Merlin, the 1cc Spitfire and the 1.5cc Sabre. BOB

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

It seemed to fire OK once I figured out it flooded every time I attempted to prime the exhaust ports. I had much better luck putting a tiny drop of fuel in the venturi.

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

The screws are beautifully hand finished as can be seen in the photo of the backplate tank. What looks like a burr on the front of the back plate, is a burr.

[link=http://www.edfinfo.com/x/temp/ae01b.jpg][/link]


[link=http://www.edfinfo.com/x/temp/ae01a.jpg][/link]

Greg

ffkiwi

Hmmn-I'd better strip mine down and check it then. That being said-it kicks over quite nicely on the spring starter-though at the back of my mind I think the wire gauge used in the spring will not survive extended use.I concur with the drop of fuel down the venturi approach-as previously mentioned in an earlier post this thread, I've been running in the 0.25cc Frog 50 replica (Rustler 'Tadpole') over the past week-and it certainly responds to this approach, as does the ED Baby 0.25cc (not surprising given the cylinder jacket and exhaust port holes of the Mk1 Baby-tricky to exhaust prime!) and VA Bambi. The mini Mills and Kalpers seem to do well just with choking-and a closed exhaust port prime if choking doesn't work-and the micro Elfins you have to exhaust prime due to the updraft carb. That being said-I have to confess defeat with the Clan 0.24 and Mills 0.25-I have got the latter to run, but very unhappily-on the bench. The original Bambi was a little sod to start and very trying! Fortunately it had a steel rod, whereas most of the modern era miniatures do not-and are very vulnerable to damage (the Czech John engines being an exception as they have steel rods with a ball and socket little end) I think in these very small sizes that aluminium rods are just too weak to take the occasional inadvertent flood from time to time.
Its also pertinent to point out that these miniatures really benefit from a proprietary fuel mix-with a lot of ether-up to 45%, and perhaps a less viscous lubricant than castor. DC certainly identified that the Bambi ran better on non standard fuel, and marketed their own blend for it [that being said, the Tadpole has been running on fairly old D1000 mix-though I suspect it would be a lot easier to start if I made up a high ether one.]

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

The AE 0.1 rod appears to be steel. I might try a different fuel blend next time.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

How much ether and igniter were you running?

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

The manual recommends a standard fuel blend. 30% ether 3% amyl nitrite. I was using Clutton's Standard mix. The problem doesn't appear to be the fuel, but the needle. I did get it to fire off the prime consistently after I got it figured out. I have some wacky "Gadjet" fuel from Redmax. 15% castor, 45% ether, 5% DII I might try next time.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Greg, is the rod a ball/socket arrangement?
Chevy43 had a .2 and said the ball/socket arangement was well- horrible.
My little .1 starts fairly well using a exhaust port prime but I find myself blowing as much out as I put in.
I'll try the intake prime.

Correction -Chevy mentioned the rod was - horrible like stamped from 1/16" aluminium

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

Surprisingly it has a wrist pin.

That's what I tried. Prime the exhaust, make sure not to open the ports, blow away the fuel, and it still flooded.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

My needle looks like Gregs.
And the running setting is 3 turns out.
I tried to pull off the back plate but the flat mouting plate came off but left the tank/crank backplate in the case.
Think some heat might disolve the castor and free it up.

This was my first diesel but I was smart enough to not try it and got some very experienced help. My second one was a PAW .55 and I can't remember how many rods and wrist pins I replaced on that poor little engine.

ddd

The problem you are haing is in both the fuel formula and the technique of primming. Too much ether and too much cetain booster. castor is best of the oils. When you go over 35% ether you are not doing a good thing and when you go over 2% booster you are doing a bad thing. Never open piston prime and choking is better then too bigger drop down the carb. We did a project on the Cox TD .010 and used a mini electric starter with no issue. The motor ran at 30,000 Rpm best. Our 1/2A formula has worked in small engines for over 35 years.

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

I'm using 35% ether, 2% DII. It fires and runs off the prime. The needle appears defective. Did I miss something?

ddd

What's your oil at?

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

I'll tell you if you tell me.

ddd

All castor and 22 to 24% by the way you would better if you dropped your boost by 1/2%

ffkiwi

I want to challenge you on this one Bob-there is a wealth of data from people who have been even longer in the diesel business than you that says very small diesels don't just benefit from high ether content-they positively need it. I include RH Warring, PGF Chinn, Mike Billington and others.And by high ether I mean up to about 45% v/v.By small diesels I am referring to 0.5cc and smaller. What is your basis for your claim? I have no argument with the oil aspect of your comment [and my own experience-while less than these luminaries amounts to over 40 years operating diesels]

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'