fiery

My Feedback: (2)

Major in action. 1st reading - 10x6 Royal composite prop; 2nd reading - 9x6 RAM composite prop. No attempt was made to max out revs. This was first session with engine.

AMB

Fiery nice indeed, looks like a velvet run too, however due due to budget have the everymans classic in that size (close) PAW 19, the farm horse not a polo pony, and a Kand B
20 Davis head which is a good runner , smooth and quiet not in a airframe for either yet, the MVVS 15D is in a fair size cub, I do have an other cub I bought assembled, used but ok
might be a good home for the K and B 20, as you guys know most of the park flyers I have are .10 OS and TT10 Davis conversions, then the jump to 40s and 50s in the rest The only glow in a plane is a Satio 56 lurking in something in the back room martin
must be getting old forgot a saito 40 In A waco bipe and a magnum 30 4 strk in a tiger moth ( inverted nice fit) martin
I have a big moth still in the box may get the Irvine 40 diesel with Bobs head but a very future project

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

Martin, I re-ran the Oliver Major. A "velvet run" is a good description. It purrs at low revs, and growls (in a very refined way) flat-chat.

I had not adjusted the carb throttle stop screw correctly on the first run. As a result could only slow the engine to 4,000 rpm. That was with air getting in through the air-bleed hole only! The rotor was fully closed (just). The air bleed hole was half blocked by the air bleed adjusting screw.

Before firing it up for the second session I backed out the throttle stop screw some, and all was well. When setting the carb up you need to close the rotor barrel well past fully closed, to eventually block of the air bleed. With the 10x6 prop I used in the first session I had a reliable idle down to 2,700 rpm during the second session, and could get reduced to 2,400 rpm, but it felt unstable. Throttling up after prolonged idle was not a problem.

My engine started easily at all times. This morning was a one flick start from cold, at previous needle and compression "best run" settings. I did not even flick hard.

On long runs there is some oil blow-by weeping out of the compression screw hole. The contra piston is a much slippier fit than my PAW .35. It is silky to adjust. I expect this weeping will slow as some "castor goo" build-up does it's magic over time. Also, it leaks oil from the exhaust collector gaskets. I am debating in my mind whether dissemble the engine to remove them and coat them with hylomar for re-assembly. I would probably cut new gaskets out of slightly thicker stock rather than use the existing oil soaked ones.

These are minor issues. The engine is a throughbred, but gentle as a clydesdale to handle. It throttles superbly once the carb is adjusted right. I don't really like air bleed carbs. That said the existing unit works, and works well. So, I am resisting the urge to change it. The engine is snub nosed, and the carb spigot diameter is only 8.6 mm. The carb body is quite small also and it only just clears the exhaust collector ring. So it is probably not feasible to fit an aftermarket twin needle carb anyway.

I also think Oliver purists would want me tarred and feathered if I did that.

AMB

Fiery sounds good I would leave the carby alone think Ridley knew his stuff looks like so far so good, you might get a little tweek with a twin needle carb but "guilding the lily"
regards martin

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Fiery, My Major weeps from the comp screw also - no reduction yet.
Ditto on the exhaust gaskets also.
Dude you paid $80usd for that beauty of a carb - leave her be

Recycled Flyer

Fiery, in regards to the contra weeping a bit - perhaps  a few more heat cycles would see the cast iron grow (as does the piston) over time and thus seal better?

I must admit that any radial ported diesel, exhaust collector fitted or not, will have its own way as to where it 'marks its spot.'

(I am sure the Harley ridding Hobbsy will know what I refer to here!)

AMB

RECYCLES FLYER All my PAWs have ring collectors I use a tiny amount of Koppercoat gasket sealer, just enought to coat the gaskets rub in, assemble you do not need much, no weeps
also on my mufflers that are 2 or 3 pieces no seeps do not use the black stuff also made by permatex or any silicon based stuff martin
ypu can use a piece of paper towel with acetone to get off any excess that weeps out so nos tuff on engine or muffler surface martin

Recycled Flyer

Hi Martin,
 The trouble spot on my PAW's is not upper and lower seal against the muffler's collector ring and the finned barrel or lower casting but the screw holes that pierce that seal in 3 or 4 places (depending on which model you have.)

I have yet to try any form of sealer yet so it sounds like the G.O. here!

Thanks mate.

AMB

try the koppercoat it will not seize like locktight and some of the other gasket sealing stuff martin
just put in a tny amount in the screw holes with a toothpick or some on the screw

One of our wolves she will stand in back of the engine test bench to grab the breeze