ENYA 15 mk2 Diesel from spares
 

I've been going to do this for awhile. In my opinion, these diesels are the most under rated engines from the classic era. Both ENYA Direct and Bobby Brooks ( shtterman on EBAY) offer almost enough spares to completely build one of the engines from scratch. Surprisingly the only spare part not available from Bob is the backplate. Haven't checked this item out with Ken yet. He did do a new batch of engines a few years ago so they may be available from Enya Direct. On the other hand backplates are relatively easy to make.

Here are links to a few engine tests in the 1960's.

http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...-D%20MkII.html

http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...kII%20(2).html



http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1486194747


I already have a very nice mk2 assembled from a parts engine off EBAY and a few spares from Ken Enya. Recently I inherited a box of ENYA Glow and diesel engines and spares including a complete 15D mk1 engine, and a few additional mk2 bits.


The pic below shows the assembled new engine. I usually fit ball races using a cheap toast oven to heat the crankcase. I use a 0 to 360 degree C Mercury thermometer suspended inside to check the temperature. This crankcase need to be heated to 180 degrees C to get sufficient expansion to fit the ballrace. Most other engines need only 150 degrees C. The shaft is rather tight in the full length Cuprous bearing. Hopefully it'll loosen up with some running.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1486194793


The mk2 has an enormous conrod and a large diameter crank to fix weaknesses in the mk1. The engine performance tests of the engine show it to be the most powerful 2.5cc diesel engine of the era (circa 1960).


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1486194843


Unfortunately I chose to use the Phillip headed (JIS?) screws. The cooling fins are held down with four screws. The originals were slot headed and I had a packet with existing spares. I found it difficult to nip up the ones shown. Also the screw through the exhaust is slightly longer than the other three. Only got that right second time around. Strangely the head/cooling fins (four screws) fit only one way. The new compression screw is also very tight in the new head. Rather than run a tap through I'll wait to see if it loosens up after the contra piston has had a bit of use.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1486194950

Just after final assembly these two flying pirates turned up for a free feed. You have to watch them, once they flew off with my best pencil, and another time a fresh 3 gram tube of CA.

I've temporarily fitted a mk1 backplate. The engine is "stiff" but should run.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1486195002

Excellent work Ray. Looking forward to your running report

They look good Ray.

Got back to the project today. I stripped the engine down again and spent some time re-seating the single ballrace and the crankshaft in the crankcase. The last .010" made all the difference to removing most of the stiffness. It was achieved by heating the crankcase and giving the inside of the crankshaft a big wack with a length of steel rod down the centre with a hammer. The piston and the chromed liner had not been individually lapped as far as I could see, and consequently felt really "scratchy". This time I replaced the screws with slot headed ones. The compression screw is a very tight fit in the steel insert in the cooling finned head. It has to be turned with a small shift spanner. It certainly isn't going to move unless it's intentional. This can be fixed later. The contra-piston on the other hand is a nice fit in the liner. The venturi insert and NVA came from the other engine. The former is unique, with a vertical split down the front side so it expands into the hole. The NVA is standard ENYA .15 item. Both are available from Bob Brooks.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1486376394


The engine started up quite quickly with the aid of an electric finger. Fitted a JFX 9 x 4 and ran it slow and rich. Used about 1/3 of a Litre of fuel in 12 runs. Motor is now starting to get the real "bouncy diesel" feel to it. Just needs a lot more running. I noticed that the engine tester in one of the magazine reports published in 1961 ran the test engine for three hours before the RPM recording session. This one will probably need about the same.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...p;d=1486376451


To sum up, it's going to be a good'in, but it's going to take awhile. Time to move to a smaller prop and to run it a bit faster.

A plan comes together. Nice. Perhaps consider a 3D printed back plate if a suitable original cannot be located?

Sounds like a good reason to buy a 3-D printer. Otherwise a backplate can be easily made from Aluminium alloy with a little hand fitting.

Quazi
You will have to remove those pictures from the internet

There may be children watching

( I recommend a stiff going over with high pressure soapy water if not a new piece of marine ply , and a fresh coat of paint on your clamp

Both the ply engine board and the clamp support their own ecosystems after about a decade of heavy use.

That clamp is not in danger of rusting any time soon.

You must do some heavy running

I remember that great,, John Goodwin he was a stalwart for running up engines on the bench

I just run a few seconds to get a setting then its off in the plane

Were do these enyas get off ,,,is the metalurgy very good or the harden, tempering good,,,,, that they wear well ?

Possibly both, good heat treatment and good metallurgy together with good machining tolerances. I've heard a few complaints about some of the modern Enya's. Poor fits etc.

I suspect many current build ENYA engines are assembled from new old stock parts, and that sometimes fits are not what they could be.

I'm sure you're right :-(

There's also the thought that they are no so tight to reduce the amount of run in needed.

Those kookaburras really steal the show.

What fuel is used for these?
 

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but the pictures here are helpful.


I have an Enya .15 Diesel in storage.
It is essentially brand new - it was given to me about 40 years ago, and I don't think it
has ever been run. I'd like to try starting it (If I ever get over to our storage location).
From my memory, it looks like the ones in the pictures, but I haven't seen it for 10 or 15 years.
What fuel do I use?

I guess the fuel you mix depends on whether you can get pure Ether or not. Where are you located?

I'm near Seattle, WA.
Is ether a controlled substance?

Ether seems to be difficult to get in the US. People seem to get satisfactory results using John Deere tractor starting fluid which is mostly Di Ethyl Ether. A useful fuel mix for your Enya Diesel would be 25% Castor, 30% John Deere, 45% ordinary Kerosene. On top of that add 1-2% of Amsoil Cetane Booster as a Diesel Ignition Improver. If you just want to start your diesel on the bench a mix of 1/3 Castor, 1/3 John Deere, 1/3 Kerosene should work just fine.

There is quite a body of information on this web site regarding "milking" the starting fluid out of it's rattle can container. I've never done it, but no doubt a quick search on here or a specific question should elicit some advice as to the process. Good luck and please post pictures.

Ray

How did the ENYA .15D Mk.2 you made up (as pictured earlier in this thread) turn out? I am curious.

Is it loop scavenged with a conical piston?

It worked out pretty well. After a bit more running on the bench it went into a c/l Peacemaker. Only had a few flights and other shiny new things things and activities turned up. I've bought a new backplate and venturi off Bobbie Brooks. They suddenly became available. Must read this site :-) Not sure whether or not I fitted them. I'll have to have a look to see where they are.

Lovely engine, yes it's loop scavenged and while the 1960's era Aeromodeller engine test example had a conical piston, this one's flat. I have another good one put away and a complete mk 1 somewhere. So many diesels, so little time.

Any use for Sabre racing Ray? You know, plain bearing, 2.5cc engine, racing round in circles kinda thing.

The Enya in question has a single main bearing, so wouldn't have been eligible for Sabre Racing. Far too heavy anyway. Built like the proverbial toilet door. The latest Enya 15 diesels could come in a PB configuration, however they were a major disappointment, alignment issues I suspect. Can't remember the details. . Besides Sabre Racing has died off. People can't be bothered any more.