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Eagle 50?

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Old 03-31-2008, 05:05 PM
  #51
RobBeach
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

They will fit on the fly bar but you will have to grind a groove out because of the flange
on the LOSI Balls... no big deal.. done it a bunch of times... the tricky bit is getting the hole
through the plastic fly bar correctly centered.

What I do... is drill a realllllly small hole as best as I can to the what I think is the center.
Then... once that hole is drilled I make it bigger to fit the LOSI Ball... with a larger bit
compensateing for my inaccuracies on the first "pilot" hole. ie: you are off at the
8o'clock postion off center... so you correct with the bigger bit to the 10o'clock position
for the final fit.

You said...
"My large gear where it attaches to the metal shaft stripped out the set screw yesterday. i ordered a new patch for it .I might be able to drill it out and pin it I don't know yet. I'll try to fix it."

Well that's been a sticky tricky all around for me..... I have flown plastic blades alot... they are
heavier and some thing else has to break...
The part you are talking about is the called the
"Fixing Patch for the Main Axis".... it's soft aluminum and it sucks.
You can easily strip the set screw (the barrel shaped screw the allen wrench fits).

I have a fix... but if you are going to buy one of these you might as well buy 10.

This is a fix that I use for the ones I burn out because I am a cheap SOB and I like fixing
things....

At Home Depot I bought a screw tapping set up....
You will get/buy an Irwin/Hanson 4-40NC which is a drill bit and a tapping screw.
You will also have to buy the tapping handle... total cost about $15 or less.

You will drill through the old hole through to the other side with the drill bit.
You will have to do this because because the tapping screw head won't go through
sufficently to make threads for the new set screw (barrel thingy) that you will put in.

When you drill the pilot hole for the new hole you will be making a thread in...
center as close as possible, error on the side away from the flange on the fixing plate
by a millimeter pr perfect.

OK.... your fixing plate (the aluminum plate that goes into the main plastic gear)
now has a hole perfectly drilled on the opposite side of the original hole.

Now you will tap it with the tapping screw...
If you have never tapped before... you go a little at a time... back it off... clean it
and the inside of the aluminum plate by blowing... and keep going until you get
a good clean new set of threads.

Now comes the hard part... I don't have the exact U.S. standard set screw size
but I will edit this for more info...
You will need a couple of these new U.S. size set screws because what you now will
be doing is using them to re-groove the threads you put in. And you will either need
a bunch of the little allen wrenches or grind them down as they become worn out.

You will get a hole with a U.S. set screw that will work.
But... it's not bomb proof... and sometimes there will be wobble into the main gear.

Ok... to recap...
You drill a hole through the old hole for the new screw on the opposite side.
You tap the new hole.
You use and work the new set screws (the barrell thingys) to make the tap work.
You put in a clean new set screw to secure it to the main shaft.

Well it's a lot of work... you can buy a new fixing patch plate for about $3....
Try using Lock Tite.... and most fixing patch plates don't come with the
set screw so you will wan't to order 3mm (wide) by 4mm long set screws.
3x5s work.... 3x3's are a little short but work.

Yu mentioned "pins" in your post.... and anybody else that has a hack that will work
please let me now... "pin" probably won't do it.
You might be able to super glue the screw in .... but one of the hardest things to do
is remove that main gear from the shaft once it's scraped up or got funky...
The main shaft has to be super clean to remove it through and out of the body of the
helicopter. Even though these are inexpensive helicopters the tolerances the main shaft
goes through are very tight.
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:32 PM
  #52
muscat69
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

RobBeach

Thanks,thats good information.I did rethread the hole that stripped to a 8-32 and put a new setscrew out of one of my wheel collars from my fixedwinged airplanes.it's holding so far but my tail motor burnt up today.figures i just got new motors yesterday for the main one's thats quit.I'll see if i can find a new tail motor at lhs tomorrow. I wonder if e flight one will work? takes a week to get one online.

GARY
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:59 AM
  #53
RobBeach
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

tapping the holes is a pain... but it beats waiting for the mailman.

Don't know about the e-flite motor...

If you don't have heat sinks for the motors you must get them.
They are real cheap and basically if you don't use them it's like
running your car low on oil.

Some people even use two on each motor, don't forget the heat sink compound.

Attached Images
  
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Old 04-01-2008, 08:10 AM
  #54
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

I have learn that having the heat sinks have help me alot. I was thinking that there were there for loks, but they really work.
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Old 04-01-2008, 08:34 PM
  #55
RobBeach
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

OK.... this is an update to Tapping a new hole in the "fixing plate" for the main gear.

And it's much of an improvement.

Use the same tapping screw size I mentioned above...
an Irwin/Hanson 4-40NC it comes with a drill bit and the tapping screw.

Drill through the old hole to the other side...
Tap the new hole.

Now... you will put the aluminum fixing plate in a vice...
And you will heat it up and using the same size set screw (the barrel screw)
You will re-tap the hole... but you will heat the aluminum fixing plate up with a torch...
You will have to repeatedly heat and work the screw in... retapping the hole with the origainal sized set screw.

I would suggest getting a supply of these set screws.. you will need the anyway.
Use a new "crisp" set screw to re-tap, the tapped hole.
Be patient... it works great.
And a lot easier than going to an U.S. sized set screw I original did the replacement.

Basically what yu are doing is heating up the aluminum fixing plate to make the metal softer
so the hardened set screw can cut a new thread in.

Recap..
Drill a new hole through the old hole to the other side.
Tap the new hole.
Heat up the fixing plate in a vice to make it soft and
Tap again using the original sized set screw.

I smoke cigars... and I have a $5 dollar "torch" type lighter (Ronson blue torch flame from the local store) to heat
up the aluminum.... it's easier to handle than a plumbing torch and more direct than a regular
"Bic" type lighter.

This improved method of tapping and retapping the heated up aluminum plate is easier, faster... and so far
darn good. And using the same sized set screw (barrel screw).

OH YEAH..... I always forget this part
SAVE ALL your old parts....

In this case... you have probably bent a main shaft or two...
WHAT you will do is using an old main shaft... maybe you will have to cut in pieces to get a
straight section...

And after all the drilling and tapping... use an old shaft to ream the hole clean for the fixing plate
re installation. Testing for a smooth fit on the old straight piece of shaft before you try to install.
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:46 PM
  #56
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

I use heat sinks on both motors. This is the first rear motor that has went bad. also I use the heat sink compound . Three main motors have been replaced to one rear one so it's lasted pretty good I guess.I wish they didn't burn out but they are fairly cheap.Just have to order them.I need to keep a couple in stock cause it takes time to order them.I'll try the new way to repair the aluminum fixing plate if it strips out again. Thanks
Gary
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:28 PM
  #57
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

Im thinking of getting 2 more liPo packs.....but what do the mah ratings mean? longer lasting? Is there a limit on mah for the stock motor?

Thanks,
James
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:43 AM
  #58
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

mAh means, simply put, the amount of flight time you'll get out of that battery pack. Usually the higher the mAh are the heavier it gets. When getting the new ones, pay attention to the Voltage and the SIZE of the battery. I've found out that if you get a larger size one would mean either the battery will be toucning the main motor on the Eagle 50, which I don't think it's a good idea OR you can switch the reciever location with your batter. In any situation you'll have to make sure that the Center of Gravity on your heli will stay the same to get a nice balanced performance.

Andy, (user name YADAC123) has recommended that we should not get a battery larget than a 1500 mAh for the Eagle 50. He is the official Exceed (the company that makes the Eagle 50) representative for this forum.

Hope that helps!
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:46 AM
  #59
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

One other thing I forgot to say in my last post: You'll need to think about the type of connection that you'll have on the new batteries and how you'll have'em connected to the Eagle 50's Receiver's connector.
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:03 PM
  #60
Jimbonator
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

Something like this? [link]http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-25C-1500mAh-11-1v-LiPo-Li-Po-Rechargeable-Battery-RC_W0QQitemZ110240589559QQihZ001QQcategoryZ34056QQ cmdZViewItem[/link]


what is the importance of the 25C marking?

The connectors look to be the same, so that shouldnt be a problem...I think lol

This heli flyin thing sure is fun
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:32 PM
  #61
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

C is for current. The higher the number means that the battery can handle more demand (Current.) Higher C's are needed if you're doing aerobatic manuvers, but I wouldn't worry about it too much if you're doing normal flights manuvers.
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Old 04-16-2008, 03:31 PM
  #62
reece-x
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

I''m sick of this helicopter and I havn''t even had a chance to fly it yet. Does anyone know where I can purchase some transmitter crystals everywere I''ve checked they"re out of stock
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Old 04-16-2008, 08:58 PM
  #63
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

have you tried xheli.com?

Andy
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Old 04-26-2008, 03:19 AM
  #64
rjd9779
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

I just bought the eagle 50 and im very happy with the heli. for only paying $109.00 exheli.com,,,,,I think its alittle more touchy flying then the blade cp pro,but more sturdy helicopter as far as the frame and parts. The motor was an issue they said in forums,but you must remove the sticker to allow air flow. I'm glad I read forums first. I removed the sticker and it was covering the air vent on the motor. I have had no problem with this heli. yet. My son has the cp pro, and it flyies pretty much the same as my eagle 50. I think for a 109.00 you can't beet this heli. I would strongly suggest buying Realflight G3 sim for the computer before buying any heli. ,it will save u a bundle in the long run.(trust me). When you buy a RTF heli. , make sure you check the trim settings and go over the heli. before you fly it. I had to make adjustments to the flybar and control link to get 0 pitch at half throttle in idle up mode before my first flight. , check the gain and the trimmer pot before trying to hover steady.Turn the gain all the way up untill it twitches in hover, then back off a hair untill it stays straight in the air in hover. TRIMMER POT AND GAIN MUST BE SET to YOUR LIKEING BEFORE FLYING. THIS IS THE FIRST THING YOU MUST ADJUST AFTER CHECKING YOUR HELI. OUT OF THE BOX. Make sure its trimmed propperly before really trying to fly it around. Download the e-flite Blade cp manual, and read the control functoins. The manual for the eagle 50 is very brief. The basic setup will be the same in the Cp manual, but more detailed. I would give the eagle 50 a high mark as far as price and the kind of heli. it is. It also can fly in 3d(upside down) right out of the box. Alot of people on forums are having difficulty with this heli., because there new to flying, and need to understand how to trim there eagle 50 before trying to fly it over their house.. All In all ,,, this is one of the best priced heli. for begginer pilots and advanced as well. Hope you all enjoy your next flight................Thx Rich
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Old 05-06-2008, 01:20 AM
  #65
cflytrap
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

I just ordered my Eagle 50 tonight! Excited. Ok so is there a brushless Motor/esc mod for this bird? any good ideas out there?
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Old 06-12-2008, 10:45 PM
  #66
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

the motor that comes with the eagle 50 is ok just be sure to take off the sticker before flight . see what you think before going brushless. i haven't had any problems with mine.
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Old 06-15-2008, 01:05 PM
  #67
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

hey cflytrap, how's the eagle these days? made any mods. i'm having trouble setting mine up. 4 crashes very little flight time. like the heli, just trying to set it up with no help. no hobby shop within 60 miles. any tips?
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:41 PM
  #68
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

the screw under the main gear keeps coming loose when motor is turned.there the main blades do not turn. need new screws? not flowen since taken out of box.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:59 PM
  #69
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

Mine did the same thing, had to order an fix from one of the online retail sellers. The little set screw that tightens up against the shaft was stripped out of the box. Good luck
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:51 PM
  #70
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

That's one of the problems I'm still having. I've changed 3 of the main gears so far. Once that screw strips, there's not much you can do about it other than changing out the main gear.
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Old 06-26-2008, 04:04 PM
  #71
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

you don't have to replace the entire main gear you just need 50H03-18 Fixing Patch For Main Axis

Andy
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Old 06-26-2008, 05:01 PM
  #72
acmc25
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

the main rotor blades turn slowly. why? the battery is fully charged . the set screw under the main gear is tight.maingear and tail rotor runs normal.
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Old 06-26-2008, 07:36 PM
  #73
oojmak
 
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

It is the screw. You think it's tight, but it's not holding on that recessed portion of the shaft, therefore the shaft is slipping.
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:27 PM
  #74
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

New to Heli and new to this forum. I purchased exceed eagle 50 from xheli.
I've been practicing alot, but now the tail motor does does not even spin.
I think it's burned out.
I just happen to have a spare tail motor from a Honeybee FP.
My question is, can I replace the tail motor of the exceed eagle 50 with the one from the Honeybee FP?
They look the same to me.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:32 PM
  #75
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Default RE: Eagle 50?

you`ll never have a good exceed heli.
espiesialy if you baught it from xheli.
either way now your stuck with it.
it makes for a good paper wieght tho.
atleast you can tell everyone you have a 100 dollar paper wieght
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