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  1. #1

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    My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    .

  2. #2

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    .

  3. #3

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Finalmente ho l'idea di un disegno che, realisticamente, potrebbe valer la Balsa spesa per la costruzione.


    Finally, I got the idea of a racing plane plan that should fly.

    It could be useful to change its name from 'Midget Mustang' to 'Top Turkey'.

    COPYRIGHT FREE PLANS ( modificateli, vendeteli, divulgateli, ecc. ecc.).


    Low aspect ratio wing, so you can build it with ease following the classic method with 1,5 mm Balsa covered foam core wings.
    (15Kg/m^3 foam + Vynilic glue +1,5mm balsa sheets). This will allow you to avoid a greater money investment (no longerons, additional reinforcements, eccetera.)

    This is a 'rookie' intented plane . So, don't expect to win races. You should reasonably learn to fly around the pylons with it..
    It will accomodate with ease the oldest 24000 R.P.M. max engines you can often find on EBay or in the R/C portal's forums.
    The OPS is the best choice in my opinion, because it is still produced and you can find all its spare parts. But you can use A Jett, a Picco, a Mvvs , an O.S. of the 'v' serie, a Rossi or an older Super Tigre X.40 with rear intake. If you are living in the U.S., you can use the rear intake K&B .45 ducted fan engine with drum rotor.

    Standing on my little knowledge about racing engines, you can use an OPS .45 FAN or Boat engine mounted in a Nylon/fiberglass mount. I ran my Ops .45 in an Aviomodelli reinforced Nylon motor mount with no troubles. If there are problems, you can slight enlarge the mounting holes of the engine and then , you will be 90% sure you will have not vibration issues, if the holes of the motor mount are not too large when compared to those of the engine. If you build the nose of the plane around that type of motor mount using Huh plus 300 Kg to do the job, you will not have troubles. After had sanded the nose, you will have to reinforce it inside and outside with light fiberglass cloth.

    The plane is conceived to be modified to fit different tails and wings to increase its perfomances, so you could try to 'fly' it with a 30.000 R.P.M. modern engine, by mounting it in an aluminium motor mount. In that case, there are many builders who are more experienced than me that could help you.








    - Go da trovare un lavoro.

    - Cerco lavoro come panettiere (senza esperienza), lavapiatti (senza esperienza), o in una impresa di pulizie (non ho esperienza).
    Falegname (esperienza atipica). Giardiniere (esperienza a livello hobbistico).

    - inviare mail a: cercoimpiego1@libero.it (astenersi gente che mi detesta, persone che vogliono solo umiliarti, ecc.).

    - Niente.









    - Me serve il motore, la balsa .. la cola... ecc..

    - I permitted myself to look for a picture to show my engine mounting solution. The plane is not mine, of course. Mine will be made of wood. But I like the idea. They used to build a me-109 and a mr Smoothie with the same engine mounting solution.

    - here is the link: http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showt...-Hannover-1992

    An interesting German R/C Website (at least for those who are interested in R/C speed planes).

    - Ah ah! Well now! I realized that to continue my self discussion I have to choose a 'De Agostini' like approach. I will post the mainframe templates in the afternoon.

    - I will post the drawings of the parts to allow the construction of the last draw i put here. Of course this will take me many months. (ghelago' fatta in tre giorni..) But I will try.

    - Please don't try to cut out parts before the end of job... better if you want, try.. but at your own risk. I want to be sure the drawings are correct before.

    - Errata corrige: I thought it would probably better to use vinylic glue to join the two frames' patterns. Epoxi... it is a bit heavy.

    - At first, I will only provide the full size templates of all frames. The rear portion of fuselage will be made from 3mm balsa sheets. from the trailing edge to the Firewall, the fuselages' sides will be made from 4mm balsa sheets.

    - I Changed Idea! Now you have all the parts you need to start (and finish) the plane's construction. You can use your favorite techniques to the particulars you don't find in the drawings. The tail surfaces are made from 5mm balsa sheets.

    I planned to use a 38mm racing spinner , instead a 43mm one.
    I am thought about a method to align the frames prior the stringer's mounting. Probably, a solution could be to drill two holes at the same place in all the frames and then to let them in place with two threated links and nuts.

    So, actually the fuselage construction is definitely not the 'Box Type'. You will have to sand a lot. But is think this would not necessary be a problem.


    Here is a link with the construction procedure of the Michael's Luvara Jr. Tsunami, I put the link as an aid : http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_85...tm.htm#8631487

    If you like his plane, you will find its plans on bottom.

    Ciao! Alla prossima distruzione??

    P.s. : the fuselage has not the long, detachable part to get access to the tuned pipe. You have to make a detachable panel all along the upper part of the fuselage, and then to fix it with some little screws. To get access to the engine, you have to make the upper part of the motor's compartement (from the Firewall to the Spinner's cone) detachable. You can easily do the job with light balsa blocks... just like the old Control line Stunt planes..

    You have to cut the rear portion of wing to accomodate it in the fuselage. Don't worry because you even will be able to get a stronger fiberglass wing joint reinforcement in that manner. (the best solution could be to add a ligt plywood diehdral brace on rear before to glass thw wing joint).

    - All the trellis are 5*5 balsa (or 6/32 inch) . The bottom of fuselage is made of 2/16 balsa sheets. All the fuselage till Firewall is made from 2/16 Balsa sheets. The turtle deck is made with 2/16 balsa sheets.

    - Errata Corrige: I forgot to draw the canopy shield position between the 'C' and 'D' Frames. You can easily draw it with a pencil after had taken measurements from the sketch.


    - Ripeto: รจ un modello che, in linea di massima dovrebbe volar bene. Non รจ certamente un modello da records..



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  4. #4

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Cucu' (go da occupare uno spazio vuoto).

    - Here you find the Michael's Luvara Tsunami plan for .40 .46 engines. For those who are in a Hurry (and for me too, to take some inspiration for my model, which is similar on the rear portion of fuse).


    - Pensavo? E' ancora al mondo il noto Ing. Ferdinando Gale'? Nel caso fosse passato a miglior vita, non sarebbe una cattiva cosa qualcuno in qualche maniera decidesse di pubblicare i suoi testi piu' noti 'on-line': 'Progetto aerodinamico di alianti radioguidati' e 'Dimensionamento pratico di aerostrutture'.

    - Dai ragazzi! : http://www.riviste-di-aeromodellismo.it


    - Bravi! Dai che non vi chiamo piu' 'scoreggioni' : http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/norcimrad...ol/Radio16.htm

    - Forse le generazioni piu' vecchie della mia (classe 1978) non si rendono conto di quante conoscenze rischiano di andar perdute, lasciando noi e soprattutto i piu' giovani, poveri curiosi, nell'ignoranza quasi totale.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #5

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Disegno di un modello ad elastico, dal quale รจ abbastanza semplice 'carpire' la tecnica di costruzione della fusoliera per la costruzione di un modello per motori .40 R/C. Chiaramente , le parti rivestite in seta oppure in carta, andranno sostituite da tavolette di balsa.


    You can learn how to build a scale looking fuselage for a .40 sized pylon racer plane by modifying a rubber powered scale model plan.
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  6. #6

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Sito interessante, per gli amanti dei modelli a volo libero: http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/...4976f7c7c8e553


    This website could be interested for those who are interested in free flight model airplanes.

  7. #7

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Nella sezione modelli R/C di tale sito, il Me-109 della Modelhob, puo' esser di ispirazione per un modello da corsa per motori .40.

    I think you could get the right inspiration for a racing fuselage by getting a look at the Modelhob ME 109 R/C semiscale plan.

    http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/...categories.php

    mi pare un sito un po' snob, per i miei gusti.






  8. #8

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    .

  9. #9

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Il Real Sporty della Sterling รจ un modello per me interessante. Consigliabile cambiare il profilo alare.

    The Sterling's Real Sporty, the plan of which you can find in the Hippockets aeronautics website, is a nice R/C sport racer plane you could use to do your first attempts with R/C racing engines.

  10. #10

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Il little Tony della Pilot ha i bracci ed il centro di spinta dell'ala adatti per un modello per motori .40.
    E' sufficiente ingrandirlo e verificare che le superfici e le misure della fusoliera siano conformi al regolamento F.A.I. F3D.
    Eventualmente apportare le correzioni. Consigliabile montare il motore lateralmente.


    You can get a nice .40 size racing model airplane plan by enlarging the Pilot's Little Tony for 1/2A engines.

  11. #11

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Censored without a cause.

  12. #12

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    WHAT!!!!!!

  13. #13

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    Off Topic Video. (How to reassemble a four stroke engine) : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WO9LRBIc_g

  14. #14

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    RE: My attempts. (red lights comments free version).

    .


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