I have a problem
#7
You guys are always willing to help. What a group...
Gizmo, I'm tempted to send you one of my engines for the price of shipping. I've got a K&B .40 that is charred black on the inside, locked up, has stripped glow plug threads, broken cooling fins, cracked crank case, and the carburetor is broken off. It's also missing the drive plate and the threads on the crankshaft don't look right. It makes a fine paper weight if you don't mind the grease marks it leaves.
Gizmo, I'm tempted to send you one of my engines for the price of shipping. I've got a K&B .40 that is charred black on the inside, locked up, has stripped glow plug threads, broken cooling fins, cracked crank case, and the carburetor is broken off. It's also missing the drive plate and the threads on the crankshaft don't look right. It makes a fine paper weight if you don't mind the grease marks it leaves.
#13
#18
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
I see you got your Head Banger back...!
He probably just needed a vacation, maybe even a neck operation..?
We are coming up on the 70th anniversary of the break through at St Lo this year.
It would be interesting to speak with some 80+ years olds to hear what they remember about life back then.
He probably just needed a vacation, maybe even a neck operation..?
We are coming up on the 70th anniversary of the break through at St Lo this year.
It would be interesting to speak with some 80+ years olds to hear what they remember about life back then.
#23
I know what I'd have put in the Butterfly ,that OS 20 FS is perfect up front . I do use a 26 in mine which is in the shop for a regeneration. Yours Paul T
#24
I agree with you that the .20FS would have been a better match for that airframe. I have an old OS .19 steel fin with an articulating baffle that I wanted to use, but this thing built out way too tail heavy. with the .19 or .20 on the front and the battery pack up against the firewall, I still needed a ton of lead to make it balance right.
The .32SX is not an ideal match to the airframe, but it helped me get the CG right without any lead and it idles really well, so it works out okay. Hand launches are a joke with this setup. I'm running a 10x4 prop and I can just about point it straight up and let it go.
The next one I build will probably get a 2" extension to the nose.
The .32SX is not an ideal match to the airframe, but it helped me get the CG right without any lead and it idles really well, so it works out okay. Hand launches are a joke with this setup. I'm running a 10x4 prop and I can just about point it straight up and let it go.
The next one I build will probably get a 2" extension to the nose.
#25
I agree with you that the .20FS would have been a better match for that airframe. I have an old OS .19 steel fin with an articulating baffle that I wanted to use, but this thing built out way too tail heavy. with the .19 or .20 on the front and the battery pack up against the firewall, I still needed a ton of lead to make it balance right.
The .32SX is not an ideal match to the airframe, but it helped me get the CG right without any lead and it idles really well, so it works out okay. Hand launches are a joke with this setup. I'm running a 10x4 prop and I can just about point it straight up and let it go.
The next one I build will probably get a 2" extension to the nose.
Just read your post regarding the 2 inch in the nose I use about 1&3/4'' with about 15 degrees down thrust, this works fine on my butterfly's. Still on the rebuilds with a new Kit in stock.
The .32SX is not an ideal match to the airframe, but it helped me get the CG right without any lead and it idles really well, so it works out okay. Hand launches are a joke with this setup. I'm running a 10x4 prop and I can just about point it straight up and let it go.
The next one I build will probably get a 2" extension to the nose.
Just read your post regarding the 2 inch in the nose I use about 1&3/4'' with about 15 degrees down thrust, this works fine on my butterfly's. Still on the rebuilds with a new Kit in stock.