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I Love my Phoenix Strega! - Factor X racing

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Extreme Speed Prop Planes Discuss the need for speed with fast prop planes (Screamin Demon, Diamond Dust, Shrikes or any REAL sound breakin'''' plane)

I Love my Phoenix Strega! - Factor X racing

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Old 07-17-2016, 03:34 PM
  #26  
crazyflyer92
 
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Originally Posted by Tr!pullCrown
11x8, 11x9, 10x9
Thank you I used 11.5x9.2 I was hitting around 135 mph I took off the novarossi .91 and I'm now installing a ported Moki 180 with an apc 16x12 that should move this plane
Old 07-19-2016, 08:52 AM
  #27  
airraptor
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crazy i think that moki will be to heavy and you will not see the speed you are looking for. One of guys put a big YS i think a 175 in his which is about 14 ounces less than the moki and it did 175-180 on a modified APC F-1 GT prop cut down.
Old 08-05-2016, 03:38 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by airraptor
crazy i think that moki will be to heavy and you will not see the speed you are looking for. One of guys put a big YS i think a 175 in his which is about 14 ounces less than the moki and it did 175-180 on a modified APC F-1 GT prop cut down.
i put a Moki 180 ported in a Reno racer mustang that is a little bigger the the Strega and it did 175mph and motor is still breaking in and already seems faster I will do some recordings of the Speed next weekend and see what it is hitting now. The Moki is a heavy but with speed I have gotten with the bigger mustang I think I will be happy with the Moki in the Strega
Old 08-06-2016, 01:50 PM
  #29  
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That moki 180 on a warbird is faster than they got with the moki 210 on full pipe with 50% nitro when racing USRA.
Old 08-11-2016, 08:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by airraptor
That moki 180 on a warbird is faster than they got with the moki 210 on full pipe with 50% nitro when racing USRA.

I have come come to find that the 180 is a faster motor then the 210 witch is getting ported and going on a 60 size p40. This Sunday I will be flying that Reno mustang and will report back on speed,the Strega is almost done with the 180 will post pictures when it is finished. And wow 50% nitro on a Moki 210? That's a lot I would not dare go over 10 with mine i run fai fuel
Old 08-12-2016, 01:03 PM
  #31  
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you cant run them stock that way as you have to do some work but they spin a 16x15 at 11,500 or so.
Old 08-13-2016, 05:11 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by airraptor
you cant run them stock that way as you have to do some work but they spin a 16x15 at 11,500 or so.
wow are the ported? And what size head gasket are they running? I'm getting around 9,000 on the ground with a 16x12 apc and fai fuel with a os f plug
Old 08-13-2016, 11:45 PM
  #33  
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Stock head gasket but the bowl has to be enlarged to get all the extra fuel in it. Just for thought the YS 185 will turn the same prop on less nitro and has less weight. This engine normally spins a 20.5x10.5 at 7500 or so on 20%
Old 08-16-2016, 07:05 AM
  #34  
MJD
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Jeff, I still have your notes on hopping up the 2.10.. haven't done it yet but I have another NIB for when it is time to play. Should I post them here or are they deep dark secrets?
Old 08-16-2016, 10:29 AM
  #35  
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Sure if you like, I had got those from long rifle long ago but will help someone out. I think the rpm was wrong though as there is a video of him running one and I thought it turn 11,000 or more on the ground.
Old 08-16-2016, 10:43 AM
  #36  
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Crank port timing: 30* ABDC open 60* ATDC close

Jug port timing: EXO: 75*BBDC EXC: 75*ABDC
INO: 30*ABDC INC: 60*ATDC

X PORT: 178* TO 180" (.025-.040" from roof of port)
Be sure to radius any cuts on the ports so they don't eat the ring. your liner is now a consumable

Open the transfer ports till you almost see light through them. VOLUME, VOLUME, VOLUME. Eat the middle rib away and the bottom radius. It'll run fine.

+.003" on the big end of the con rod
Large radius on the back of the crank where the port dumps into the crank case. As big as you can make it.
Trim the end of the crank pin to where it just sits on edge with the rod. then trim off the flange of the back cover plate till you have .001-.002 for clearance.
Trim the skirts so they don't shroud the transfer ports on the bottom.

Open the chamber up by using a 3/4 ball end mill. Don't eat up the quench ring. just open the radius of the dome more.
Break in your bearings by spinning/loading them with 30 wt oil. Put a side load on the bearing till they just get warm. Worth 100rpm

CARB:

.432 bore on barrel and venturi. No bigger otherwise it won't close.
Open all fuel delivery holes on banjo fitting, fuel barb, and carb needle cross hole to .094
File the idle circuit slot with a triangle file till it's about .035" wide
Don't mess with the brass tube in the barrel, it's fine.
Use a Mccoy #9 plug

Start on 40% nitro and work your way up to 60%. Remember, if you don't gain RPM as you increase the nitro its for one or two reasons: Either raise the ex port some more or open the chamber on the head.

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