iron eagel

That's pretty darn slick.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

I usually use the corner of a scrap poly bag for spreading CA, or even just a chunk ripped out of a shopping bag, and twisted reasonably smooth on the finger. Know whatcha mean about the gloves.. I usually never know when the fingertips are about to give out.Made me think of a picture from about 9-10 years ago, when I had sprayed thin CA on the phone handset in the shop without knowing it. My wife took the picture of me with the handset glued to my beard and ear.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

My usual blunder is to accidentally grab a bottle of thin CA but think that I'm holding a bottle of medium. This usually results in copious amounts of thin CA flooding the project and me grabbing for paper towels ASAP..

After thinking things through, the look that I'm after is only possible with the servo laying on it's side and only the servo arm sticking out above the wing's surface. I've got a pair of slim glider wing servos that I've never used, but I need to double check their rating. The delta I just tore apart used HS-225s set up for max torque / minimum elevon travel.....so I think these are as wimpy as I dare go for a spec rating.

iron eagel

What about the HS-85MG they are rated 42 oz at 4.8 V and 49 oz at 6 V they are about the same size and weight as a HS 55 but much stronger. I used them in the Stingray.

iron eagel

Their is one other servo I can think of in this size the futaba S3102 they are 1 1/4 X 1/2X1 3/16, 51 oz at 4.8 and 60 oz at 6 volts.
I should have mentioned before I run all of my radio and servos at 6 volts now so they are producing the most torque they can.
In my demon I used futaba S3305's mounted sideways rather than vertical as you have them so I could get the best geometry on the linkages and keep all the movement in the same plane.
At 6 volts the are rated at 124oz torque but they were a bit pricey perhaps they may work for you if you can shoehorn them in you bird.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

The HS-225 is the minimum I would use, and 6V is a good idea, but with at least 2:1 mechanical advantage through wise linkage geometry and using as much servo travel as possible, they'll do it on 4.8V as long as it isn't a wacko power setup. I used HS-85's on my .15 Demon.

Side mounting is much better IMHO, and you don't need tiny servos. I Goop std servos in mine these days.

iron eagel

I used 5:1 on my stingray with the Hs 85's. In my Demon I could only get 1.5:1 that's why I used the S3305 on their sides I figured with 124 oz I should be ok, They still produce 100 oz if you running 4.8 volts they are just a tiny bit wider than a standard servo.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I've been struggling to make good looking servo cowls with the upright mounted 225s and it just isn't going to happen.
Time to get out the razor saw, clear the flight deck and go with a pair of servos mounted flat.
The past 2 weeks I had a very rare cold that morphed into a bad rib cage / neck from sneezing...and a power outage that knocked quite a few large trees down across our driveway the connects us to the main road. Working in the garage [on this model] while standing next to my roaring gasoline generator is technically possible, but watching TV next to the wood stove seemed like a better option.
I'm in favor of trying a pair of servos mounted sideways to hatch covers made from 1/8" light plywood.
Pushrod fairings could be molded directly to the hatches.

Pond Skipper

Bummer about the weather and such CP!!

The glider guys have all sorts of sleek methods used over the years.
Some mount the servo to the hatch door to reduce servo horn's exterior footprint sweep.
The horn now moves less being shorter allowing a smaller hood over the horn.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

The sleekest of the sleek is the Graupner actuator system that is completely concealed but I have doubts how it would hold up in a Demon.
On the bright side, when your neighbor has a few trees blow down onto your driveway, it's "Finders Keepers"...!
Ironically, 2 diseased trees that I hoped would blow down, didn't.
Tragically, one of the trees that fell was old growth, knot free spruce and all I'm equipped to do with it is make firewood out of it.

iron eagel

Sounds like you had some serious wind. Shame you couldn't mill that spruce.
Hope your feeling better, sounds like that was quite the cold.
Your servo setup should come out pretty nice with the fairing as part of the hatch. All of my regular planes are done with the hatch mounted servo. I like to make sure the servo doesn't move once the hatch is in place even if it comes loose. I put a bottom in the servo "pocket" the servo is resting on it with stops so it is not able to slide around either.

Edit to add:
I have gone so far as to mount the servo so that all that exits the wing is the control rod itself. Yea it a bit of a PITA but all you have to fare is the rod itself, the stingrays control linkages are done like that.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

This is something that I got out of the habit of doing. I also used to have a "lifetime supply" of 1/16" plywood and that was my universal hatch material.
Funny thing about the sneezing injury is that there was once a ball player on a team I rooted for who was always going on the "Injured reserve" list. He took himself out of action for this very same reason and everyone made fun out of such a phoney excuse. I've always been a violent sneezer so I thought tearing a muscle might be remotely possible.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

On a stock Demon you have enough height to put a standard case servo in on its side. The center ribs have laser cut side mount holes for HS-225, but I could change it to standard footprint.

Like my signature says.. Goop and I get along well. I goop the servo to the floor now, with the front elevated by a scrap of 1/4" TE stock thick end forward, and servo output arm forward as well for clearance to the rear of the radio compartment.

iron eagel

Goop and I have been friends since my model train days.

CP, I have thrown my back out several times from a cold so I know it is possible to hurt yourself like that.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

I have hobbled myself many times by back-wrenching cold/bronchitis coughs.. it freaking hurts. These often helped:

2-3 fingers scotch. Adjust depending on thickness of fingers.
A good shot of Buckley's regular cough remedy. Not a good time for DM.
Boiling water
honey to taste (and some for your hot toddy too)

repeat as able

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I've stumbled upon [ha ha] a great mixer for my favorite cheap whiskey...[Canadian Mist] mixed with Fresca Peach soda.
Squirt is good too and so is Fresca Grapefruit soda.
Fresca also has a blackberry soda that's just awesome.
Just pecking away at the Demon.
I glassed the center sheeting so that I can just paint it instead of using iron on.
The servo hatches need the little cowls applied, then glassed so they can be painted too.
The glass work has the usual bubbles, dry spots, pits, etc. No matter how perfect it looks before tucking it in to dry overnight, there always seems to be flaws if you don't go the extra mile to "bag it".
It would also help to work in a room temp area instead of 30 degrees to get the West Systems epoxy to loosen up.

iron eagel

That looks pretty slick.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Almost there! Ha ha, covering is next, I know you love it.

My basement workshop is starting the slow slide down to the mid '50's, it will dip to high 40's in Jan/Feb. Yeah, laminating epoxy ain't laminating epoxy at 30 degrees less than recommended. A fan forced heater blowing on the bench in front of me works okay, else I grab the heat gun and warm it up locally.

Never did mix whisky with any of those.. but I can see it. I'll have to take your word on it now though, that's the only halo I ever earned..

Pond Skipper

Looks good CP and strong enough to handle all the speed the engine can make dah demon is resurrecting!

I work out of a spare bedroom, summer time temps make it a must to have AC but it does get cold here enough
so I have put the heater on 3 weather front hits this winter so far. I would prefer more room but its enough to get by.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, before I got remarried I had a room inside the house that had a table saw, radial arm saw, drill press, building table. It eventually became her living room for all of her things.
I had the epoxy stored inside a 65 degree room, but in the time it took to mix a 60 cc batch and brush it out in the cold room it was like "molasses in January".
What I don't get is the skin rash texture..hundreds of hollow bubbles that rise to the top after it's cured.
The substrate is light grade, 1/8" thick balsa. The bumps usually knock down just fine without cutting into the cloth. The new Gator Grit [premium grade] sandpaper, 80 and 150 really works well and the paper really is extra clog resistant. It's worth the extra cost.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

I gotta get one of these OPS .45's in a Demon. I was all set to convert one I had framed up, but at the last minute I realized it was better off as an electric. Reason I say that though, is I am real curious how it will compare to the SJ 50 / West .50 crowd, and also our various hot-rodded versions. And it will sound kewl.

iron eagel

The skin rash is air in the epoxy introduced during mixing that can't make it all the way to the surface (because it is so thick) if you warm the stuff up before you mix it the bubbles should dissipate before it sets. I heard some guys use a big foam box with a heat lamp to keep the stuff warm while it sets as well.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

That makes sense about entrapped air and struggling with thick / cold resin will force air in. I had to "stipple" the resin into the cloth with a brush instead of just guiding it over the cloth calmly with a credit card..
The resin being cloudy instead of crystal clear should be a tip off.

iron eagel

A heat gun over it will thin it out so it flows better I have done that myself.
In my reading about composites over the past couple of years I come to an understanding temperature is critical.
I put my resin and hardener in hot water before I mix them to thin them out. I have read about guys using MEK, acetone or denatured alcohol to thin it as well so it flows out nice, but have also read that using any of those can reduce the strength of the epoxy.

Interesting read about heat and epoxy application

Edit to add: I like the part at the end of this piece about heating the wood before you apply the epoxy.
https://www.acpsales.com/upload/Preventing-Bubbles.pdf:

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the link but those fogging iceholes gave me a 404 forbidden sign when I tried to have a look.