Old Oil Soaked Demon
12-01-2015, 07:53 AM
#77
When I mix laminating resin, I put it in a vacuum chamber and pull the air out of it before I apply it. For small batches a strong mason jar with a hose in the lid to my vacuum pump works well. Just set the mixing container in the jar and turn the pump on. You will see the resin foam up as the air bubbles are pulled out of it. Do warm the resin, and the surface you are applying it to as well so you do not introduce more air into the resin as it is applied.
12-01-2015, 03:28 PM
#78
When I mix laminating resin, I put it in a vacuum chamber and pull the air out of it before I apply it. For small batches a strong mason jar with a hose in the lid to my vacuum pump works well. Just set the mixing container in the jar and turn the pump on. You will see the resin foam up as the air bubbles are pulled out of it. Do warm the resin, and the surface you are applying it to as well so you do not introduce more air into the resin as it is applied.
Thanks.
12-01-2015, 03:54 PM
#80
I forgot to mention one important aspect of the vacuum trick. If you mix 40 - 60 Grams of resin and can see the bubbles in it, pull the vacuum slowly. Give it a couple of inches and let it settle down a little. If you just turn the pump on and nail it with 20" it will foam up pretty violently. This gets messy very quickly, Don't ask me how I know that.
Scott
Scott
12-01-2015, 04:05 PM
#81
Thanks to the internet and RCU], the amount I've learned has shot up 10,000% compared to the old days when I competed with just the same 100 guys or so in the USA.
I just saw your warning and will use a hand pump to create the vacuum.
12-11-2015, 04:23 PM
#82
Some proof that the project is inching forward....
This is automotive urethane primer. The photo doesn't show the pits and flaws that I didn't see before committing to shooting the primer. I'll fill the rough spots, lightly sand and do another primer coat before applying the top coat of Klass Kote black epoxy paint. It seems like a lot of work for such a small area, but I hate using iron on film to cover concave fillets.
12-11-2015, 09:22 PM
#85
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Ooooh, that looks nice!
Nice filleting and filling around in that engine bay. And you're right, you can't MonoKote those interior details.
Beautiful work.
I was just showing off the framework for my SD a few minutes ago to my dear ex-wife. Yeah, those words aren't heard together very often, but she's a sweetie and she's in town for the holidays. She flipped on the SD and wanted to know more so I showed her the BSE Jett. Her exact words were "Oh my gosh that's the most beautiful engine I've ever seen!" Did I say she was a sweetie?
Even if she doesn't have good taste in men, she's got good taste in engines.
Dave
Nice filleting and filling around in that engine bay. And you're right, you can't MonoKote those interior details.
Beautiful work.
I was just showing off the framework for my SD a few minutes ago to my dear ex-wife. Yeah, those words aren't heard together very often, but she's a sweetie and she's in town for the holidays. She flipped on the SD and wanted to know more so I showed her the BSE Jett. Her exact words were "Oh my gosh that's the most beautiful engine I've ever seen!" Did I say she was a sweetie?
Even if she doesn't have good taste in men, she's got good taste in engines.
Dave
12-11-2015, 11:42 PM
#86
Thanks Dave..!
It remains to be seen how well this job holds up with a couple layers of paint "progressively" overlapping the iron on film. This layer of primer will be sanded with a Scotch pad as well as the small band of iron on film that is exposed.
It remains to be seen how well this job holds up with a couple layers of paint "progressively" overlapping the iron on film. This layer of primer will be sanded with a Scotch pad as well as the small band of iron on film that is exposed.
12-12-2015, 08:48 AM
#88
??? If Jett patterned their exhaust outlet the same as a mass produced engine, MACs would have a header ready to order. Years ago they built me a header for an engine that had a unique bolt pattern.
Last time I looked, MACs gives 2 or 3 options for the shape and the angle of the header pipe, so you need to tell them what you need.
I will investigate this for you next week if you wish.
Last time I looked, MACs gives 2 or 3 options for the shape and the angle of the header pipe, so you need to tell them what you need.
I will investigate this for you next week if you wish.
Last edited by combatpigg; 12-12-2015 at 08:51 AM.
12-12-2015, 10:08 AM
#91
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Well, all I have at the moment is a straight header. The pipe will not clear the top of the wing with that. It'll need about 3/4" of rise to clear everything properly I "guesstimate".
I guess I could always order a custom made header from Just Engines in the UK.
My BSE 50 FiRe has a 25.75mm exhaust bolt spacing? Was Dub aiming for 1" or what does that equate to in imperial measurements... Something like that is not listed on the Macs site, but I could always ask.
Has anybody here tried the muffled marine pipes from Macs in an aircraft application? They look less "mellow", but perhaps they're too peaky for aircraft use?
I guess I could always order a custom made header from Just Engines in the UK.
My BSE 50 FiRe has a 25.75mm exhaust bolt spacing? Was Dub aiming for 1" or what does that equate to in imperial measurements... Something like that is not listed on the Macs site, but I could always ask.
Has anybody here tried the muffled marine pipes from Macs in an aircraft application? They look less "mellow", but perhaps they're too peaky for aircraft use?
12-12-2015, 10:33 AM
#93
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Some proof that the project is inching forward....This is automotive urethane primer. The photo doesn't show the pits and flaws that I didn't see before committing to shooting the primer. I'll fill the rough spots, lightly sand and do another primer coat before applying the top coat of Klass Kote black epoxy paint. It seems like a lot of work for such a small area, but I hate using iron on film to cover concave fillets.
If it goes half as good as it looks it ought to be a screamer.
12-12-2015, 03:00 PM
#97
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Well, all I have at the moment is a straight header. The pipe will not clear the top of the wing with that. It'll need about 3/4" of rise to clear everything properly I "guesstimate".
I guess I could always order a custom made header from Just Engines in the UK.
My BSE 50 FiRe has a 25.75mm exhaust bolt spacing? Was Dub aiming for 1" or what does that equate to in imperial measurements... Something like that is not listed on the Macs site, but I could always ask.
Has anybody here tried the muffled marine pipes from Macs in an aircraft application? They look less "mellow", but perhaps they're too peaky for aircraft use?
I guess I could always order a custom made header from Just Engines in the UK.
My BSE 50 FiRe has a 25.75mm exhaust bolt spacing? Was Dub aiming for 1" or what does that equate to in imperial measurements... Something like that is not listed on the Macs site, but I could always ask.
Has anybody here tried the muffled marine pipes from Macs in an aircraft application? They look less "mellow", but perhaps they're too peaky for aircraft use?
1 inch = exactly 25.4mm, your dimension is 1.013". I am pretty sure MACS will make one too, but the UK source may be better for you, dunno.
12-12-2015, 03:36 PM
#98
Some of those "serious" build threads in the pylon forum are great because they are kept strictly business [as much as possible].
Sahartman's threads are some of my favorite because they are BETTER than any "How To" book I've ever bought about building FG models.
Sahartman's threads are some of my favorite because they are BETTER than any "How To" book I've ever bought about building FG models.
12-12-2015, 08:59 PM
#99
When I bought my Jett FIRE 50, Dub told me Macs made the headers. I called Dave at Macs and had him make me a custom header to fit my plane. He has the dimensions, just tell him how much rise you want.
