BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

Because there are several posts concerning whiplash comments and questions, I will use this one page to submit tips, techniques and recommendations specifically for the whiplash.

If you have a specific question, please post it here and I will do my best to answer it.

I will also post urls to other forums for your viewing pleasure.

thanks

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

We are in the process of producing urethane pipe brackets for supporting pipes on the fuse, the entire center section of the whiplash is reinforced urethane under the skin so our bracket will be able to screw mount or be epoxied onto the fuse for optimum support.

Also, for those using the older versions of the K&B 7.5 with the cast carb and the extended intake, you will have to elevate the engine on the mount and do a little grinding of the cutout in the front of the fuel tank tray.

The motor mount is solid hardened urethane and is the thickness of the fuse, so you can cut some of the mount away without compromising the motor mount integrity.

Please contact us before you do any drastic alterations as it will void the warranty and could be a safety hazard.

The whiplash was fitted primarily to accommodate most 35-50size engines without alterations, ie Jett 50, Rossi 45, OS35,40,46 and 46DF, and K&B 7.5 new version.

Depending on your particular engine, some modifications may be required.

Never remove more than 1/6" from the motor mount surface without consulting ACM first.

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forumdispl...s=&forumid=162

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...933#post154548

these two sites will have several posts from me concerning engines, servos, and other issues concerning the whiplash.

Please visit our site for important news concerning new products and other news issues. once you are at our home page, click on the "ACM news" tab to view.

www.aerojetmodels.com]

ZERODOWN

My Feedback: (4)

Hey bud I think you need to mold a small skid or something like a v-hull for a nose skid to eliminate any bolts or nuts from digging in also it will alow room for a spinner. And maybe a little more room for the fuel tank to get some padding in to cut down on foaming. I pulled my take out at put a reciever rap in the bottom then siliconed back in. On the ground I was getting a lot of foaming which was hard to get the engine tuned. But once I got it close we let it go and it was fine. This was not a big concern for me but could be for some.

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

actually the best way to mount the engine is to drill your holes for the engine mount, use an oversize bit or a recessor to make a conical shape on the whiplash mount to allow a flathead screw to sink into the mount, get flathead screws and slide them in from the underside of the mounting bracket, and use elastic stop nuts on the top.. that way you have a perfectly flush fit. nothing to snag.. the same can be done with pan head or socket head screws, the idea is to sink the head of the screw into the motor mount so it doesnt stick out at all..

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

there is enough space under the tank to get foam in, you can also put a healthy bead of silicone all around the tank to act as a cushion, also make sure your prop is balanced and that the crankshaft is straight, that can always cause lots of bubbling if its not right..

The motor mount is urethane and absorbs some of the vibration, but as with any plane, unless you have tons of room around the tank to completely wrap it in foam, you will get some bubbling

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

Everyone getting a whiplash, if you would please notice...

Inside the RX compartment is a small 4mm tube sticking out the side wall..

This is the tube for the antenna, it is 30" long overall and is wrapped inside the fuse on the port side of the airplane.

Simply thread the antenna from your RX into the tube and you're done.

we have used velcro to attach the RX and battery pack in the compartment.

In one of the prototypes we had an approximate 150 mph nose dive straight in and the RX and battery didnt even get dislodged using the velcro.

but of course, you install it as you see fit..

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

There are bladder type fuel tanks that will fit the whiplash available.

We will soon have an accessory page that will have fuel bladders, whip antenaes, tuned pipe brackets, and many more items for you guys that want to customize your whiplash.

We have found that the tank that comes with the kit has a small blister on top that hampers a flush fit on the rear exhaust pipe when using a Jett 50..

A bladder type tank will eliminate this problem and will also help with those pesky vibration bubbles..

if using the tank provided, if you use foam on the bottom of the tank and surround it with silicone, it will help to eliminate bubbling problems and the silicone will hold the tank firmly in place and reduce vibrations too.

JSF-TC

My Feedback: (2)

Received my Whiplash tuesday. Can't wait to fly it.

Tuesday night applied trim colours and installed servos and horns.

Tonight I found that with the fin assembly sitting in its recess, the elevon pushrods foul the leading edge area of the fins. Looking at it, the toe-in of the horns using the pre-drilled holes puts the pushrods at such an angle that there is approx 1/4" clearance between the pushrod and the fin LE, but this means that the servos (JR 8411s) are currently positioned about 1/2" too far inboard.

With the servos fitted in the pre-cut holes, the outer edges of the servos are in line with the fins, where I think they need to be moved out approx 1/2" to get clearance.

Has anybody else had this problem?

Apart form this, very impressed with the kit.

mlevings

My Feedback: (14)

JSFTC, I have the exact same problem. I have the longest servo arms I had installed and the rods still flex against the fins. With the small travel required, I should be using the shortest arms I have, but it will not work. As it is, we are not utilizing the full torque of the servo since you have to turn the atv down to about 30% travel. I may try and move the elevon horns out a bit in order to use a smaller servo horn. Any other suggestions? Also, I am only able to get about 14" of antenna into the antenna tube. I am assuming it is kinked inside. I have even tried a small diameter flexible wire to open it with no luck. How should I run my antenna now?

Thanks,

Mark

david200mph

I RECIEVED MY WHIPLASH YESTERDAY. IT LOOKS VERY SLEEK!

JUST WAITING ON MY JETT FIRE 50 NOW. :spinnyeye

THANKS RICK FOR ALL THE CUSTOMER SUPPORT! :thumbup:

YEA! GIV ME DAT 90 WHIPLASH!!!!!!

ZERODOWN

My Feedback: (4)

HEY FELLAS GO AHEAD AND PUT A SET OF THE HEAVY DUTY CONTROL ARMS ON. SET YOUR ATV LOW THEN IF YOUR ABLE SET YOUR EXPO. I OPTED FOR CARBON FIBER RODS ON MINE SO I WOULD GET NO FLEX. WITH THIS I HAD NO CLEARANCE PROBLEM.

JSF-TC

My Feedback: (2)

I agree with Mark, we should be using the shortest possible servo arms to get the best mechanical advantage and to increase the resolution of the control surface movement. The other option to moving the servos outboard is to move the control horn on the elevon, but I've just checked and it would need to move out over 1" to get some clearance between the pushrod and the fin. I think I'll move the serovos out 1/4-1/2" tonight.

I'm using carbon pushrods so I can't have them fould the fin (even if I wanted it to, which I don't).

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

arnt the rods meant to be run between the fins and not out side them? just a thought, looked the obvious way to me, its how i've done dust

JSF-TC

My Feedback: (2)

No, the elevons don't go far enough inboard to run the pushrods between the fins.

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

The easiest fix is to use longer servo arms, the anodized aluminum in 1.5" is usually adequate, but give yourself some playing room, 2" servo arms are probably best. You can also use the heavy duty Dubros.

We do NOT recommend the arms that come with most servos for any engine over a 35, there is always too much flexing with the standard arms, Heavy Duty Arms only..

We have ammended the instruction sheet to indicate this, and we will post this requirement on he website on the order page.

glad you guys like the whip...

let me know if I can help

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

Please note:
We are ready to release a special pipe bracket for those of you using Jett Engines or most rear pipe engines.

It will be on our website under "whiplash" in a few days, its a very neat bracket and uses the strength of the area between the servos for support.

check the website often for new items coming out all the time.

The whiplash Launcher is now available too, typical delivery is 1 week or less by the way.

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

Notice:

We were going to have a price increase on the whiplash effective June 15th, but since we are still running behind on orders, we have decided to extend the introductory price till July 15th.

We are adding to our production staff and will be at maximum production soon...

thanks again for your patience for those of you that havent recieved your whiplash yet..

You'll have yours soon..

thanks

Rick

ZERODOWN

My Feedback: (4)

Hey changed my engine from the webra 50 to the os 46 ducted fan but I forgot where the cg point was and I lost my sheet.

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

I'll have you an answer first thing in the morning...

JSF-TC

My Feedback: (2)

I've had about 8 flights now with my Whiplash and I have to say I'm impressed. Very fast and very stable. Very fast roll rate. The Rossi 53 is starting to loosen up. Running a APC 10x8 prop at the moment. No idea of the speed but fast.

However, I found that the engine vibration was loosening the mounting bolts. Kept tightening them up, but noticed that the vibration was fretting away the bolt holes, so all I was doing was pulling the bolt heads through the engine mount.

On the last flight a hot landing broke one of the engine mounting beams from the model. Has anybody got any ideas of how to fix it. I'm thinking of maybe removing the other one and letting in some wooden engine bearers. I need to think about this one before I do anything. Ideas are very welcome.

hey Bud - what's the internal structure like either side to the fuel tank bay??? Any other repair ideas??



I find I've got used to the speed now and want to go faster.

ZERODOWN

My Feedback: (4)

I THINK I WOULD DRILL BOTH ENDS OF THE BROKE SIDE AND INSTALL A WOOD DOWL AND EPOXY INPLACE.

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

If you aeroepoxy the urethane piece back into place, once you bolt the engine back on the engine will reinforce it, actually recess flathead screws from the belly of the bracket, and then use elastic stop nuts on your engine bolts, that way the bolts will not back out and it will also give you a flush underside..
if you dont have aeropoxy, please call the office monday and ask for me or Dan, we'll get you fixed up..

BAGOSTIX

My Feedback: (178)

also. if you take a bit and drill a hole into the mount on both pieces, then aeropoxy it in place, it will hold tgother better.. or if you can find the box it was shipped in, just send to us and we'll fix it for you...

RC_Junky

My Feedback: (1)

This is my Whiplash all ready to test fly (serious rain storm this morning, will have to wait till tomorrow). Great ARF, fit and finish excellent, customer service, best in the industry (at least the best I've come across). The only thing in kit not used were the elevon push rods, made up Dave Brown arrow shafts. Used heavy duty servo arms on Hitec 5645's, close but no clearance problems with fin.

Rick, is there any Whiplash decals available? Or maybe you could e-mail your Whiplash logo that I could print, scan and get a decal cut locally.