fullmoon_sg

Thanks Joe. Will do as what you have suggested. Btw, do you happen to know where I can buy the starter nut for my Byrojet fan? Regards.

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

There is no special starter nut. The "prop nut" that comes with the engine is used to hold the fan rotor on the engine. My starter wand has a 12 mm. deep socket (for OS91) on the end of it that fits over that nut to spin the engine. It is recommended that you put some Locktite on the crankshaft threads and make sure that it is on tight so that it doesn't come loose when starting.

Joe

fullmoon_sg

Roger that. Look like I'm actually looking for starter wand. Does this type of wand is available at hobby shop or home-made. Appreciate it if you could direct me when can I get it. I really face a problem of starting OS 91 with my Tahmazo 210 electric starter. Cheers.

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Byron doesn't make them any more. You could try putting a Wanted ad in the RCU Classified section. I'm sure that there are a number of them out there that are no longer being used. Theirs is nice because it has a cone at the fan end to help center it on the fan bolt and has a one-way clutch bearing.

I made my first one out of a steel shaft long enough to stick out of the tailpipe a bit. I forgot the shaft diameter (about 1/4" to 3/8") . Drill and tap each end. Bolt a 12 mm. deep socket to one end, use an allen head bolt. Insert a small diameter piece of tubing over the shaft so that you can hold on to it while it's spinning (PVC works well). On the other end attach a small aluminum spinner. Put the socket over the fan bolt, with someone holding the plane for you, push your starter cone against the spinner to turn over the engine.

Joe

FLIGHTJOCKEY

My Feedback: (48)

check with bob violet, yellow aircraft and rc jets http://rcjetmodels.com/?OVRAW=scale%...OVMTC=advanced


they still may carry them, if not I can build one for you 50.00 plus 8.oo for shipping I have a fu machine shop Ill just need to know what size nut you have on OS like joe said its 12 mm but also could be 1/2" depends on the age of it,
I have bult a few that screw directly on to the shaft of your starter, in many cases you can just buy a xtra starter and ust it only for your fan unit they are cheep.

let me know if you cannot find one its no problem to build


Bill

760 485 1971

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Bill,
He needs a Byron type starting wand that will engage a 12 mm. bolt. If any of the firms you mentioned happen to have a starting wand it would be the type for a tractor fan (BVM, Dynamax, Ramtec) made to engage an allen head bolt and wouldn't work for him.

I'm sure you could make one similar to what I described above, just wanted to make sure you knew which type he needs. Also since fullmoon_sg is in Singapore the shipping is likely to be more than $8.00.

Joe

FLIGHTJOCKEY

My Feedback: (48)

thanks Joe, it was fairly easy to make one since I have a small machine shop in my garage I just used one of my spare starters and made that one only for my fan unit took me about hr to make it, it works great

Bill

fullmoon_sg

Thanks Bill and Joe for the advice.

In fact, a few months ago, I have bought a brand new set of Dynamax Fan, Engine, JMP tuned-pipe and starting wand from a friend. Initially, I thought of converting the Enforcer using tractor fan. But after much consideration, I think it would be more appropriate to use a Byrojet fan because of many successful stories.

After what Joe has suggested, I might want to try to modify my Dynamax starting wand to fit for using in Byrojet fan. Cheers.

fullmoon_sg

Hi guys,

I would like to check whether I should sheet the wing with 3/32" balsa at the centre of the wing and 1/16" balsa for the rest of the parts. Or should I just sheeting the wing with 3/32" wing? My setup is

Byrojet fan with OS 91VR-DF
Robart Retract
2 X HS85MG for aileron and 2 X HS225BB for elevator.

Thanks,

John

FLIGHTJOCKEY

My Feedback: (48)

John,. I would use 3/32 to sheeing on the entire plane, I did with mine, makes it more stronger ad dont add that much weight, better to be safe than sorry, also pay close attention to the direction you place the sheeting, follow the instructions closely


Bill

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

I agree with Bill. Sheet the entire wing with 3/32", mine is done that way too. After sanding 1/16" would be too thin.

HS85's might be a little weak for the ailerons. I used 6 HS225's, two each on ailerons, elevator, and rudders. They work OK, but I had one fail on me and they don't return to center as reapeatably as I'd like. I used JR DS811's on my Turbine Enforcer and have been very happy with them. They are an inexpensive digital servo. The precise control and centering is far superior to the HS225. After this I'm sold on digital servos. I believe the DS811 has been replace by the DS821 which should work as well.

Joe

fullmoon_sg

Thanks Bill and Joe for the advice.

I have more or less "embedded" my servos inside the wing and it would make some efforts to re-mount the appropriate servos. Therefore, I've planned to convert the standard setup (i.e aileron and elevator) to elevons. Hope it will do the job well.

Here are some of my update.

FLIGHTJOCKEY

My Feedback: (48)

Elevons work well, I use them in my f 117 this way you only need 2 servos,, just make sure you use a good strong one as Joe says. you will have more contro surface to control, and use at least 4-40 rod 256 will be way too small, as you know the shorter the rod the less flex you will have, and you dont want to get any flutter or reflex action with elevons I usually have them set up about 1/8" for trim purpose,
helps the lane fly more straiget and you usually dont have to fight the trim at first
good luck and keep the photos comming so we can see it finished



Bill

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

Gary: I know this post is about 3 plus years later, but, I have scratch bult about 3 - 4 of these FORCE ONE's -- each time I throw a little more power into the engine.

Right now, I am just winding up skinning a 60" version (again, scratch) I have an old ROSSI .61cc that has been bored out to .81cc
I plan on putting on it.

Finding a good CG for this has always been a fun deal but nevertheless,

What kind of spped do ya think I'll get out of the .81?

also

Give me an idea of what kind of color scheme I should go for.

marwen1

fullmoon_sg

Hi guys,

I'm closed to finishing my enforcer. However, I'm facing some road block. As what the forum has suggested, extending the nose by 6 inches, I should also shift my CG about 1/2 inch forward of the original CG. But at the original CG setup, I'm already facing tail heavy, by shifting CG forward by 1/2 inch will make it worst i.e. need to add dead-weight up to 400 at the nose. Can I fly with original CG? Appreciate your advice.

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

If you are indeed tail heavy, you can fly, but very unstable . Think about landing with a slight flair and being tailheavy --- well, uh uh DO, move it forward!

marwen1

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

I don't understand your statement. The only way to move the CG forward is to add weight to the nose, or remove weight from the rear. That would make it less tail heavy.

Balance it at the 1/2 inch forward position. Try putting the battery as far forward in the nose as you can before adding any dead weight. Don't fly it tail heavy. A plane that is too tail heavy can be uncontrolable. If it's nose heavy it will still fly.

Joe

FLIGHTJOCKEY

My Feedback: (48)

Joe is correct I extended the rear 6" as well as the nose 6" I started with a cg 1/2" further foward, and after the first flight ended up moving it another 1/4" foward, you need to remove weight from the rear or ad it as far foward as poss, too much weight in the rear will make it too unstable, you dont want to crash after all that work now do you,?? better to safe than sorry,



good Luck,

Bill

palm Desert, Ca

look at our flying field

www.coachellarc.com

fullmoon_sg

Thanks for the guidance Guys.


Joe, what I meant is that my plane is tail heavy and needs to add a lot of weight to the nose to balance it (CG position is based on original plan). If I were to re-position the CG forward by 1/2 inch (due to my nose being extended by 6 inches), it would mean that more weight will have to add-in. ....[&o][&o]

LADDIE

Please, add us much weight to the nose or remove from rear as needed to move the CG 1 /2” to 3 /4” forward from it’s original position. Do not worry about adding the weight too much. The wing can support extra weight to balance the model properly.
Laddie.

fullmoon_sg

Thanks Laddie. I will make sure the plane is well-balance before I fly it. I had flown out of CG plane before and it was a really a ride of my life. Cheers.

Btw, are you Laddie Mikulasko?

FLIGHTJOCKEY

My Feedback: (48)

Here ae a some photos of my Enforcer, and my f-117's two of them are hanging in my local hobby shop on display for the summer, too hot to fly this time of the year

ductedfan

Speaking of wings, I have a question. I have read a couple of threads and I still haven't found what I'm looking for. The subject: Plug-in Wings. I am looking for a very simple, yet strong design to modify any kit to have plug-in wings. Can anyone help in this matter??? Thanks in advance for all of the info...

Ductedfan

marwen1

My Feedback: (6)

The ARROW (RCM - July 2004) had a construction article that allowed the tips of the DELTA WING to be detachable.

Since then, I have been scratch builing ALL of mt detachables the same way.

Basically, you buy some graphite ARROW shafts for a crossbow and cut them as needed.

Build a box with 1/8" plywood the length that is between the ribs. ONE rib space that is a permanently epoxied shaft coming out of the main body (top & bottom) and two rib lengths for the receiving side.

Build the fixed side first and then make the receiving side a dry fit prior to making them permanent within the wing tip.

If this isn't what you want PM me

It's a lot more detailed

marwen1

ductedfan

Marwen1, thanks for the info. I'll have to check out that issue of RCM. I have attached a picture of the Skyburner XD91's method of wing detachment. It looks very clean, sturdy, and easy to install. I'm thinking building an F-4 Phantom and I will not have much room to put my hand inside the fuselage to tigten any bolts (like with the Sig Something Extra), and was looking to tighten any and all bolts from the outside. Once again, thanks...