Blade47

Nice clean work Mr. G ... the stock setup of the elevator rods are fine for low speed ... but if you are going for speed you may wish to heed the advice from Rich and others on how to beef up the back end .... just my $0.02

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Seems pretty strong - I used 1/8 brass tube in the elevators where the 4/40 goes in. Done for today. I'm up to page 11 - ready for top sheeting. Decided to use a carbon fiber tube with glass sockets - lighter, stronger, and no paper tubes to make. Should be here in time to start the wings. G.

Rudeboy

Blade,

I see your torque rod is not in line with your hinge line... How does that work?

I went to "real" hinges on mine for that very reason. The system AKM shows sucks IMO...: CA hinges (which translate into hinge gaps automatically), and then having your torque rods out of line with the hinge line for half the width of the torque rod [:'(] It works of course if you don't glue your torque rods onto your elevators, but that alone is looking for trouble already.

jetpilotrich

No matter how tight the 4-40 rods are in the bearings... usually there is just to much flex in the rod and to much play in the wood where the rod is inserted! I would recomend using something thicker that a 4-40.

Where do you get the carbon fiber tubes from? That would be way better that the paper if the fit is good!

Rich

Blade47

Rudeboy ..good catch ..or almost lol ..the picture is a little deceiving from the angle as well as the cut out that I had to make is not square so it does look out of whack ... the rod is only glued INTO and not onto the elevator I will admit that it not truly 100% in line but it is awfully close.

the elevator does swing freely up/down and I see nor feel any binding ..but you are right ...the flight test will tell for sure

Blade47

Also the difference in the rod size 4/40 to 1/8" rod will also make the hinge line of the elevator out that width ....

Rudeboy

That's what I mean, IMO torque rods should be glued to the control surface... although an epoxy setup like yours will cure most problems caused by "unglued" torque rods, because it eliminates slop.

My torque rods are, like on all my planes, embedded 50% into the fixed surface and 50% into the control surface... same goes for the hinges... torque rods are glued to the control surface. End result: no gaps, no slop, no binds, everything aligned. Downside: more work, but I think that's worth it.

I hope your fix does the trick... the plane just looks too damn good to be grounded like this.

Blade47

Rudeboy ..Thank you for the information on how you work with the control rods. I will try your technique on my next build.

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Well - the fuse top sheeting is done. You'all didn't say what a pain it was to put on. Now I'm looking at the wing bolt design . It seems that one could put a 3/8" hardwood block between the top sheeting and the wing tab. Then a block below the tab on the bottom of the fuse. Both blocks could be drilled and tapped throughthe retract plate and the wing tab for about an 8/32nd bolt to hold the wing on the tube. CF wing tube ordered from precision aero com-posites.com. Should have a pic soon.

Blade47

Just to get the blood going ... here are some pics that are on the WEB ...of the 5 at least 3 have been tested not sure about the first 2. Maybe we will hear from them ... How about you Snoop? Have a pic and a test flight report?

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

I like the T-bird scheme but I think I am still going with the Sukhoi test pilot Demo scheme like Rich. Here is the CF wing tube. On top is the beautiful fglas sleeve. 2.5 oz WITH the sleeve vs 4+ for the aluminum tube. Much stronger too.

jetpilotrich

Where do you get your tubes ad sleeves from?

Rich

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

I wanted CaptG to post the URL first just make sure

http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-tube.htm

Don

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Aero Composites.com

Pterosaur

Hello, brand-new to the forum. Wanted an R/C SU-27 for a long time and did a net search...found this string and ordered one from AKM right away. Built and flew the Great Planes F4 with a O.S. 90FX, expect the SU-27 to fly in a similar manner. Am I qualified...mind if I join the 'club'???

Blade47

Speaking for myself ....Not at all ...more that build and Fly SU the better

picard1

My Feedback: (2)

well I am getting back to work on my su-27 after a long delay and I am in need of advice...

I started bending the balsa to cover the fuse and It is developing cracks. I am using a 10:1 solution of water : amonia for better penetration and I am letting the balsa soak for over 20 minutes. the wood either cracks or just breaks into pieces


mike

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Here's where I got the tube. As for bending the wood - I just use windex with amonia- wet generously and glue it. I had one small crack while drying which was easy to fill. www.precisionaerocomposite.com

Blade47

What I did was to use windex with ammonia and just pinned the wood into place and dried it with a heat gun ..then glued into place after it had shaped... may help [8D]

Rudeboy

I just used something similar to "Windex"... because it comes in a handy bottle... I'm sure plain water would have worked also.
However, I only wetted the bottom side of the sheeting, the side that gets glued... the water expands the balsa and automatically curves it in the right direction. If 20 minutes isn't enough to be able to bend the sheeting, then wait longer... patience can be a virtue. The 2 most forward pieces of sheeting on my bird were wetted and pinned down, but not glued (no time)... weeks after that, they were completely dry, and they just kept their shape when I unpinned them.

Also, it is possible you just got harder wood in your kit... When I started on mine, I immediately noticed Alex's wood selection could do with some looking after. But hey, it's just a piece of sheeting... no big deal to cut a new one.[8D]

Oh, and as a side note: I found that for glueing on the sheeting, it is nice to grow a third hand (or use someone elses), use white wood glue and use A LOT of pins (the more the better).

picard1

My Feedback: (2)

WOW, THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO ... I'LL TRY WINDEX WITH AMONIA. ALSO NOW THAT YOU MENTIONED IT, MY BALSA IS FAIRLY HARD SO I'LL TRY SOME SOFTER STUFF


THANKS
MIKE

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Ok - the wings are now made, and Mounted! - from the bottom! Picture shows a 1/8th ac ply plate to bottom out the bolt with a 3/8 threaded ac ply plate for the 1/4 x20 aluminum bolt to screw into. On top of the tab are the supplied lite ply plates and some hard balsa blocks for alignment and rigidity (probably overkill). The main gear mounting plate will cover it all and have a hole for the bolt to go into.

Rubbie

Ok this post is long...

I just received mine in the mail, and it looks awsome!!!! I was just wondering about the engine, I Have a GP F-14 and it flies great with a MVVS .77 and I was wondering if that would fly the Flanker ok? When I line up the plans of the two planes they look to be similar and the weight is about the same. I just thougth I would be able to save a couple bucks on the engine setup if I went MVVS?

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

MVVS should be fine. You won't be as fast as the Jett but you will be faster than some others.

Don

Pterosaur

My SU-27 ARC arrived today via Greyhound, wow what a nice kit! AK-models packaged it like it was gold! I was hoping some of you could offer guidance. I was thinking of glassing the fuse, has anyone had an opportunity to fly both glassed and covered birds? Which is best? Lastly, for those that have gone the glass route, did you glass the fins as well?

Appreciate your opinions, thanks.