Diamond Dust Construction
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Diamond Dust Construction
Here's a question for experienced Diamond Dust builders...
I'm on the step where the Kevlar thread is wrapped around the spars and LE at the ribs. Simple enough on the outboard ribs. How do you wrap the thread at rib #1 where it meets the motor mount? The plans seem to show the thread slipping between the rib and the motor mount, but wouldn't this interfere with the tri-stock that is to be installed later to reinforce the motor mout/rib joint? Also, the motor mount already is glued to the rib. Is it necessary to drill a small hole to pass the thread?
Any other suggestions on modifications/reinforcements? I was considering adding small lite-ply doublers on the bottom of the motor mount where the engine screws will be. I was also considering reinforcing the elevons with fiberglass tape and epoxy on the bottom side. I lost a .40 size Shrike once when the elevator split.
I'll be using a YS .45 RE with the Hatori pipe, and Hitec 605 servos @ 6 volts.
I'm on the step where the Kevlar thread is wrapped around the spars and LE at the ribs. Simple enough on the outboard ribs. How do you wrap the thread at rib #1 where it meets the motor mount? The plans seem to show the thread slipping between the rib and the motor mount, but wouldn't this interfere with the tri-stock that is to be installed later to reinforce the motor mout/rib joint? Also, the motor mount already is glued to the rib. Is it necessary to drill a small hole to pass the thread?
Any other suggestions on modifications/reinforcements? I was considering adding small lite-ply doublers on the bottom of the motor mount where the engine screws will be. I was also considering reinforcing the elevons with fiberglass tape and epoxy on the bottom side. I lost a .40 size Shrike once when the elevator split.
I'll be using a YS .45 RE with the Hatori pipe, and Hitec 605 servos @ 6 volts.
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RE: Diamond Dust Construction
Drill a small hole to pass thread through if no hole is there already. Just got ahead and wrap the threading like plans say. What I did for the triangle stock was notch out the part where the thread touched. I just knocked out until I was able to seat the triangle stock flush with motor mount.
For the engine mount part sounds like you have right idea with the ply doubler. I did the same thing but sandwiched to ply pieces onto the mount.
As for the control surface that is up to you. It would make it stronger but I never had mine fail or split with the stock set up.
Here is pic of how I did my threading up front. It can give you an idea. You can see a small gap where I knotched out for threading. This is before I cut out and added ply for engine mount.
For the engine mount part sounds like you have right idea with the ply doubler. I did the same thing but sandwiched to ply pieces onto the mount.
As for the control surface that is up to you. It would make it stronger but I never had mine fail or split with the stock set up.
Here is pic of how I did my threading up front. It can give you an idea. You can see a small gap where I knotched out for threading. This is before I cut out and added ply for engine mount.
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RE: Diamond Dust Construction
Hey, thanks a bunch. Your message clears it right up. I figured it was something like that, but I was a bit reluctant to start poking holes that weren't described in the plans/instructions.
Robert
Robert
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RE: Diamond Dust Construction
It is a MVVS .40 GRRT FAI.
It works really good with the Diamond Dust I think. The only other engine I ran in the Dust was a 46.FX which is a sport engine so it is a day and night between the two. And those are only two engine I have had hands on to compare with. So far the GRRT has been a good strong running engine on the Dust. It launches very fast and easy and will slow down down if you feel like it. It does not have to run WOT to run good, yet that is usually where I keep it at.
Only drawback I think with this engine is it only works with small props to go fast. It does good with the Dust but would be a disappointment on a heavier plane.
Here are the links to the engine and parts
http://morrishobbies.com/product_inf...products_id=96
http://morrishobbies.com/product_inf...roducts_id=176
http://morrishobbies.com/product_inf...roducts_id=129
It works really good with the Diamond Dust I think. The only other engine I ran in the Dust was a 46.FX which is a sport engine so it is a day and night between the two. And those are only two engine I have had hands on to compare with. So far the GRRT has been a good strong running engine on the Dust. It launches very fast and easy and will slow down down if you feel like it. It does not have to run WOT to run good, yet that is usually where I keep it at.
Only drawback I think with this engine is it only works with small props to go fast. It does good with the Dust but would be a disappointment on a heavier plane.
Here are the links to the engine and parts
http://morrishobbies.com/product_inf...products_id=96
http://morrishobbies.com/product_inf...roducts_id=176
http://morrishobbies.com/product_inf...roducts_id=129
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RE: Diamond Dust Construction
Thanks for checking in, but I'm sorry to say I haven't made a whole lot of progress since the last post. Been doing some business travel, and haven't found a way to take the building board with me. I'll get there, and I'll be certain to post a picture or two.
In the meantime, here's a picture of my last project. I know it doesn't quite belong in this forum, but it's still a whole lot of fun. I think the variety is one thing I really enjoy with this hobby.
In the meantime, here's a picture of my last project. I know it doesn't quite belong in this forum, but it's still a whole lot of fun. I think the variety is one thing I really enjoy with this hobby.
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RE: Diamond Dust Construction
My Diamond Dust is now complete. It's hard to believe almost 5 months went by, but the summer past without a whole lot of building going on. Kids were out of school and the family took a few trips, so there was barely time to fly. Summer is over now and it was back to building.
The DD has a YS 45 rear exhaust with a Hatori pipe. It was built per instructions, with the exception of a small gap in the elevons to make a place to hold the tail during launch. Made 2 flights today, and it was awesome. The first was a bit hairy. It took some time to get it trimmed and settled down. The second was smooth. The color scheme works really well. Bright red on top, with white and red dots on the bottom.
Thanks for your support,
Robert
The DD has a YS 45 rear exhaust with a Hatori pipe. It was built per instructions, with the exception of a small gap in the elevons to make a place to hold the tail during launch. Made 2 flights today, and it was awesome. The first was a bit hairy. It took some time to get it trimmed and settled down. The second was smooth. The color scheme works really well. Bright red on top, with white and red dots on the bottom.
Thanks for your support,
Robert
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RE: Diamond Dust Construction
robert. im home designing a DD copy (see my whats a good aerofoil for a delta thread) and im hopefully going to use a YS 45 but i need to ask does it NEED 20% nitro like the 4 strokes and can you link me to were you bought that hattori pipe pls
Thanks
Ian
Thanks
Ian
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RE: Diamond Dust Construction
Ian,
I have been running the 20/20 fuel in my YS 2-stroke, mostly because that's what I have used in my FZ-91. Some of the guys at my club field have told me it's not necessary for the YS 2-strokes. The engine instruction sheet specifies, "any good quality 2 stroke fuel, which includes synthetic or castor oil additives." The only other mention of fuel in the instruction sheet involves the tuned pipe. It says the header length, "must also be increased with lower nitro content fuel blends."
From that I presume various nitro levels are acceptable. I will say it runs GREAT on the 20/20.
I bought the engine and pipe some time ago on eBay (both NIB for a great price), so I can't refer you anyplace where I bought them. The Hatori box has a couple part numbers and description on the label. They are 'Y00015' and '#401' described as a '7.5cc muffler tuned pipe'. Perhaps someone who sells Hatori products (such as Central Hobbies) can get one for you.
Good luck with your project.
Robert
I have been running the 20/20 fuel in my YS 2-stroke, mostly because that's what I have used in my FZ-91. Some of the guys at my club field have told me it's not necessary for the YS 2-strokes. The engine instruction sheet specifies, "any good quality 2 stroke fuel, which includes synthetic or castor oil additives." The only other mention of fuel in the instruction sheet involves the tuned pipe. It says the header length, "must also be increased with lower nitro content fuel blends."
From that I presume various nitro levels are acceptable. I will say it runs GREAT on the 20/20.
I bought the engine and pipe some time ago on eBay (both NIB for a great price), so I can't refer you anyplace where I bought them. The Hatori box has a couple part numbers and description on the label. They are 'Y00015' and '#401' described as a '7.5cc muffler tuned pipe'. Perhaps someone who sells Hatori products (such as Central Hobbies) can get one for you.
Good luck with your project.
Robert
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RE: Diamond Dust Construction
Hey Robert
thanks for the ino, im emailing central hobbies, plus a number of other manufaturars for info on pipes.
thanks again, ill keep u updated
Ian
thanks for the ino, im emailing central hobbies, plus a number of other manufaturars for info on pipes.
thanks again, ill keep u updated
Ian