Radcom

Snoop...
I went to Servo City webpage and looked up batteries,
how about 6V 2000mah flat NiMH. 5 cell also...
I have to measure it up to see if it would fit in the Dago,
these batteries seem to be very inexpensive. I could buy
a couple of extras ,have them charged up and fly the Dago
all day.My Hitec Eclipse 7 q-pcm came with a 600mah 8cell nicad
and I'm assuming that it is 9.6V,doesn't say what voltage
anywhere.Maybe I should up the mah and go with Nimh on the
tx. What do you think....
All other fliers are welcome to jump in....
Stay with me on this bird......

_____________________________

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

Well to be honest I think the 2000 is an overkill here. I believe in good equipment but stay focused here. These guys are saying "yeh get this and that and you need high dollar digital servos" and on and on. Don't get to crazy. Also need to consider the weight. The Dago will probably come out nose heavy with your engine

Radcom

your right Snoop,glad your here to help me out.
I'm going to do some more research. I forgot
all about the weight. weight is the big key.
Thanks again.....

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

Okay, since we go back such a long way and all, I'll be frank. You have a good plane. A top of the line YS 110. So far your off to a great start. Put some epoxy on the firewall corners inside and out. Use a mix with (Great Planes Milled fiberglass). This eliminates the use of glass cloth.

Remove the retracts and slop the same mixture on the inside of the rails. Also consider replacing the retract rods with something stronger (optional). Many have complained the WM retract system is weak. If your landing on grass then maybe but asphalt of some kind-I don't buy it. They just can't land! I have several WM Planes with retracts. All original and still installed and never "reinstalled" if ya know what I mean.

Get a simple Hitec Retract Servo HS 75 about $30. If you never used a retract servo then tell me because they do not work like regular servos. Get a simple servo for the throttle. Couple of #425's for the Ailerons and rudder and a #635 for the back end.

A simple 600mah battery will stil give you three flights before you should check it but i would not go over 1000 or 1200. No need for it.

If I had to guess, you would not spend more than $20 for all this additional hardware of roads, horns etc. You need to make that back end and linkage solid. If you were using a simple .40 then whatever.


I strongly suggest this too. Use the 635 for the back end. If you do not want to split the rod like I said then use the dowel but attach a 4-40 for security to the servo and elevator. DO NOT USE THE RODS OR WIRE THAT COMES WITH THE PLANE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Except for the throttle and ailerons. The control horns are fine but not that control wire.

Its very flimsy and weak and you have some serious power up front. When the elevator is under pressure the wire will bow out inside the fuselage where you cannot see it which is what you convert to the 4-40.

Your obviously building this for speed. Prop selection is open for debate here with the guys but consider a 12/12 apc. I have the Saito 100 and tried many sizes. Finally a guy here gave me a formula and the results were a 12/12 and turns out to be the prop to bring out the best for my plane and altitude and such. I get a fair 100mph on this thing but keep in mind I am at 5000ft here and take a approximate 17% power loss.

I also use McCoy plugs. Somebody told me once they use a thicker coil element than most others. I am not sure about that but i rarely change one.

At sea level this would be a 120mph plane. Let me know