Extreme Speed Prop Planes Discuss the need for speed with fast prop planes (Screamin Demon, Diamond Dust, Shrikes or any REAL sound breakin'''' plane)

Outlaw Construction

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Old 09-07-2002, 01:37 PM
  #26  
robhoneycutt
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Default Outlaw Construction

I might have built mine wrong, but my rudder goes through the 1/4 support cut-out, following the dash lines on the elevation view.. (step 15) Then the taiskid stabilizer glues straight to it, underneath..
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Old 09-07-2002, 01:48 PM
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Default Rudder

Rob that may work with the added triangle support. I had the impression from the plans that the rudder sat on the lower ply and was glued to it. I emailed Azarr and hope to get a reply today ulness others can fill the info gap. Working on the elevon servo mounts for now. Pete
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Old 09-07-2002, 10:49 PM
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Default Solutions

After talking with Dan Stevens and info from Azarr the following to be done. The rudder does rest on the 1/16 ply inserted over the trailing edge sheeting like a sandwich. We have NO idea where the lower center section doubler goes and it's history. Will use CA hinges. I continue to work on servo location. I'm placing the mounts and tapping them for both rudder and throttle before sheeting the bottom.
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Old 09-08-2002, 08:28 PM
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Default Finished bottom

Servo hatches done
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Old 09-08-2002, 08:30 PM
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Default Servo's

Nice clean servo setup. The micro servo on the throttle gave me some breathing room.
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Old 09-08-2002, 08:32 PM
  #31  
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Default Tubes

Ran tubes for antenna and for servo wires
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Old 09-09-2002, 03:07 PM
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Default Outlaw Construction

yours makes mine look like a cavern inside
i must have done the fin post diffrent too, i swear i've got room right to the back... yes i did, my solid part of fin is much smaller so the back end is empty.
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Old 09-09-2002, 03:37 PM
  #33  
robhoneycutt
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Default Outlaw Construction

As I just (((invested))) another 4-500 in this model on the motor, etc... I have contemplated building a test model out of delrin foam with a geared 280 speed electric motor..

This is my first delta wing, and as I finish the outlaw, I am starting to enjoy looking at it in one piece!

My experience is limited in fast planes, my sig rascal 40 being the fastest.....

Never programmed elevons, mixing, exponential....

Should I start with a cheap version first? -or- just dive in and rebuild as necessary?--have plenty of balsa left over!


Thanks for any advise~

rh
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Old 09-09-2002, 03:43 PM
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Default Outlaw Construction

shes stable, and you've got throttle control, just dont fly it on high rates. i almost killed it test flight when i banked left and did 2 rolls!!!!
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Old 09-12-2002, 09:56 PM
  #35  
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Default Sorry for the delay.....

sorry for the delay on your question. I got married....I was busy. :spinnyeye

The antena looks good. I ran mine right down the spar and straight out, but I do not think it matters.

RobHoneycutt - You were asking about adding strenght to the rudder and vertical fin. You really don't need to. Jerrys's is razor thin and mine is stock per plans and it works good. I also cut the block and slid the fin in the middle of it. Not sure if that is correct or not, but it works. I knew some Honeycutts that lived just outside of Clemson - you aren't related are you?
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Old 09-12-2002, 11:00 PM
  #36  
robhoneycutt
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Default Outlaw Construction

My Uncle lived towards Augusta for a while... Most of the family is still in jail!

With regards to the rudder: On my next Outlaw, (might not be long), I will sister a support on each side of the rudder, just for the sheeting to rest on...

I have just finished the motor mount, prior to sheeting the leading edge.. Lesson for the next plane: fix blind nuts in firewall FIRST... the centerline of the bolts was = to the two #1 Ribs.... Made for some digging!

The Hacker 50 came in today! with a 8-6 graupner cam folding prop, and a 5 degree yoke, it draws close to 44 amps..14000 RPMS! Hopefully will get up over 100 or faster.. (if I make it that far)

Cannot wait to post pics.. It will at least be the 2nd best looking plane on this thread!

Using the Hi-Tec micro servos as well.. we will see how they do...
I am putting the receiver outside the hatch area , just to the inside of a elevon servo.. the other side will have the micro servo for the rudder... This makes plenty of room for the battery.. which is 12 cells, x 2400

pics this weekend..

rob
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Old 09-12-2002, 11:35 PM
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Default progress

Rob,
Sounds like your making progress also.
Fly4Fun2,
Congrats on getting married.
Rudder is on and is solid. I'm using Hitec 645MG servos and there is not enough clearence for the top hatch. The fix was to place 3/32 balsa on #1 ribs tapered at both ends so the area over the servo is higher.
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Old 09-13-2002, 03:21 PM
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Default Outlaw Construction

cut holes in the ribs and slide them in there, solves all those problems
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Old 09-13-2002, 06:16 PM
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wild3dfunfly
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Default Outlaw Construction

i got one for free at joenall 2002
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Old 09-13-2002, 08:26 PM
  #40  
robhoneycutt
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Default Outlaw Construction

Free!?!?!?!? Mine was $25. Got mine at the same show..

What should the centerline of the servo to the center of the rudder dimention be, with respect to a "plan" view?
I do not have room in the main hatch area for a rudder servo, so I am exploring options on its location,, but am concerned with location and interference to the elevons.. ( dont want control rods hitting elevons)

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Old 09-13-2002, 10:37 PM
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Default Rudder Servo

Rob,
Look at mounting the rudder servo on the other side of RIB 1. If you did this on the side opposite the engine the balance should be close. Measure the location and cut two holes in rib 1 for the hardwood to be epoxied in place. Pete
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Old 09-14-2002, 06:42 PM
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Default Finished Sheeting

Well it's looking like an OUTLAW
I did not run the trailing edge sheeting up to the rudder. Instead I ran sheeting along the rudder with some added stock along it's length for more support. Almost done with the rudder (alot of sanding to taper it to 1/16 in at it's trailing edge ) I have already sanded a 45deg edge on both sides so I'll get a 90deg movement. will do the same for the elevons and the wing trailing edge. I did mark, drill and place the motor mount on BEFORE I finished the sheeting. Also fuel proofed the tank area with 30 min epoxy thinned with alcohol.
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Old 09-15-2002, 01:25 AM
  #43  
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Default Outlaw Construction

Just a tip....center 1/4 inch triangle stock on the leading edge of the aileron and the trailing edge of the wing. Sand what little of the triangle stock sticks up above the trailing edge sheeting and the aileron level, and presto....a nice 45 degree angle in no time.
To help center the triangle stock on each surface, first t-pin it in place then slid it back off the surface on the pins, add thick CA, and slide it back down.
I think the Diamond Dust does it this way, and it works great!
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Old 09-17-2002, 01:00 AM
  #44  
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Default Hatch and rudder

Contender thanks for the tip. Hatch and rudder done.
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Old 09-17-2002, 01:06 AM
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Default Plane Stand

Well I needed something to hold the plane so I could continue with moving surfaces and for covering especially inverted. I came up with this stand. It should do everything from storage to engine start up. All 1/2 PVC with Pipe insulation to protect the covering. Cost less than $10.00 and took about an hr from design to finished product.
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Old 09-17-2002, 01:07 AM
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Default Another

The plane rests on it's ribs for good support.
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Old 09-17-2002, 11:46 AM
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Default Outlaw Construction

Man,
I am glad I am NOT posting my pics yet.. yours looks so much better! I had trouble sanding the leading edge, with the 1/16 sheeting being so thin, I was not careful enough to avoid not sanding it.... So... its really thin near the leading edge. My solution was to wrap the leading edge with two inches (wide) of fiberglass tape, and then sand it smooth.. It actually is incredibly strong and did not add much weight to it. Hopefully it will help it with any "minor" crashes.

Finished wingtips, and about to finish rudder, and elevons.... servo and receiver mounting

For the hatch, I bought 4 camlock connectors which have a spring lock. I will try to use these on the hatch to make it strong, yet easy to remove..
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Old 09-17-2002, 04:49 PM
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Default Outlaw Construction

Rob,
Keep at it. Add some pictures when you can. I had only done the top of the leading and trailing edges untill I finished the stand to work on. The leading edge balsa is fragile. I was thinking of giving it a light coat of resin to toughen it. I guess some 1/2 oz fiberglass cloth would not add much weight. Where are people putting skid plates on? Pete
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Old 09-17-2002, 05:00 PM
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Default Outlaw Construction

I tried epoxy mixed with a little alcohol for thinning on the leading edge first, but it did not help {me}enough...It was a very weak connection.... the light glass with epoxy did wonders.. still waiting on it to totally cure out, so I can sand it better.. right now its loading up my sand paper pretty bad.. patience,, patience....!

For the servos, I bought those nice plates with the exit faring built into them.... It looks good.. I am using 256 rods, since this is E powered..
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Old 09-24-2002, 10:48 PM
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Default Outlaw Construction

Details , Details.. It was going together quick 'til I got to the detailed parts.... Finishing up the hatch connections, wing tips, covering the elevons, rudder.. hooking up control rods,... used 5 CA hinges on each elevon.. They are really tight.. what would be min. throws on elevons?
Also had to do Mod. on the battery compartment.. had to make it a little deeper... doesnt effect the hatch, but underneath, it takes a little stream-line away from both #1 ribs.. (made it 1/2 " deeper)
the CG did not allow me to put much forward....

Flying out to Minneapolis for the weekend.. will have Outlaw ready to fly next week!
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