Shrike 40 ARF vs Kit built
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Shrike 40 ARF vs Kit built
Has anyone compared the Shrike 40 ARF vs the kit built version in regards to wing strength. I was looking over my son's new ARF and I was concerned about it's use of a wing tube. The tube is .517" o.d. with a .051 thick wall and I think it's made of 7075-T6 aluminum (the good stuff). The tube passes through the fuselage via an already glued in place fiberglass tube spacer. The directions call for the covering material to be removed from the area where the wings are to be glued to the fuselage. The fuselage's compression and extension strength on the sides of the center section seem weak due to the thin formers at the top and the distance the wing is away from the bottom of the fuselage (skin). If I had to guess I'd say the tube is 85% of the wing strength. Also of note, on the front page of the instructions it had statements like "it is necessary to use throttle management in order not to over-stress the airframe". I have only seen statements like these in 3-D or trainer type aircraft manuals. So what I'm getting at, #1 is the wing construction (spar) different ARF vs kit ? #2 Has anyone here folded the wings on either of these planes ? #3 Should I beef up the fuse and or replace with or insert a piece of carbon fiber tube inside the aluminum tube ? (we are planning on hard turns, using a 46 sport motor) #4 Not worry about it and just fly the darned thing and have fun.[&:]
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RE: Shrike 40 ARF vs Kit built
freekinfast
Do you really have any choice? A good percentage of the deltas seem to meet their maker through structural faillure. Seem something like paying $100.00 for a Q-500 arf. From experience, we know to beef up the motor mount and re-glue critical areas of the fuse where possible. I would tdend to build my own, kknowing the thing will be flying around the gang at very high speeds. Fixed landing gear tend to slow them up a bunch. You probably have one of the first runs and shippment. Beef up what jumps out at you, we will be hearing the crash and burn stories shortly, just as we will on the new Alley Cat that seem to loose their cowels frequently. At first blush, the cowell connection system appears more that adequate, apparently not from the first flight reports. Be carefull, the injury or life you save may well be your own" ENJOY
Do you really have any choice? A good percentage of the deltas seem to meet their maker through structural faillure. Seem something like paying $100.00 for a Q-500 arf. From experience, we know to beef up the motor mount and re-glue critical areas of the fuse where possible. I would tdend to build my own, kknowing the thing will be flying around the gang at very high speeds. Fixed landing gear tend to slow them up a bunch. You probably have one of the first runs and shippment. Beef up what jumps out at you, we will be hearing the crash and burn stories shortly, just as we will on the new Alley Cat that seem to loose their cowels frequently. At first blush, the cowell connection system appears more that adequate, apparently not from the first flight reports. Be carefull, the injury or life you save may well be your own" ENJOY
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RE: Shrike 40 ARF vs Kit built
I have not seen the ARF but I have built the 40 size kit. The kit has two hard wood spars and also calls for nylon tape or fiberglass at the wing root top and bottom. I have read many stories about the 10 size Shrike with balsa spars folding the wing but do not recall anyone having trouble with the 40 size. I also do not remember any warnings about over stressing the wing. I had a Jett 50 on mine and flew it hard for over 100 flights. Watch out on the hard turns. The only bad habit mine had was accelerated stalls during very hard high speed turns.
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RE: Shrike 40 ARF vs Kit built
Crazy4flt is right.I have the Shrike arf and folded the l/g on the first landing.I cut a hole on top of both wings to epoxy the gear blocks back in.They were at best held in with hot glue.I am running a OS .46 AX with a 2.5 " spinner and a APC 10x7 prop.It Is fast and I have flown it in a very steep dive with wide open throttle.Held together fine.Defineately take the time and access the gear blockcks.2holes,1 on each wing,approx 1"x1" above the gear.Just poke a sharp object up threw the gear hole to locate,cut,and then epoxy.Very simple.I would hit the firewall also.Just my .02.
John
John
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RE: Shrike 40 ARF vs Kit built
The Shrike is a good plane, but the Whiplash is just more durable.
It can take a nose dive at 100 mph and still be rebuilt after.
I know, I have one and flies great! If you can get one I highly advise
towards something like that other than the shrike. It is all prebuilt
and the only real work you have to do is epoxy the rudder.
I might even consider selling one of mine.
Let me know!
Joe
www.unitedflying.org
Highland Michigan
It can take a nose dive at 100 mph and still be rebuilt after.
I know, I have one and flies great! If you can get one I highly advise
towards something like that other than the shrike. It is all prebuilt
and the only real work you have to do is epoxy the rudder.
I might even consider selling one of mine.
Let me know!
Joe
www.unitedflying.org
Highland Michigan
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RE: Shrike 40 ARF vs Kit built
The Shrike is a good plane, but the Whiplash is just more durable.
It can take a nose dive at 100 mph and still be rebuilt after.
I know, I have one and flies great! If you can get one I highly advise
towards something like that other than the shrike. It is all prebuilt
and the only real work you have to do is epoxy the rudder.
I might even consider selling one of mine.
Let me know!
Joe
www.unitedflying.org
Highland Michigan
It can take a nose dive at 100 mph and still be rebuilt after.
I know, I have one and flies great! If you can get one I highly advise
towards something like that other than the shrike. It is all prebuilt
and the only real work you have to do is epoxy the rudder.
I might even consider selling one of mine.
Let me know!
Joe
www.unitedflying.org
Highland Michigan