tflame

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Hello guys
A friend is planning on buying the matney models AJ-2 QM 15 and would like to know of a hot .15 to use.thanks.
Juan
revver Bro #126

Pathous

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If you can find one a nelson .15

Scott

tflame

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HEllo Pathous
We looked at one but the $265.00 was more than what my buddy wants to spend. I have Four NIB COX conquest .15 R/C with perry carbs .Iwonder if they are still competitive with a few mods.
Juan

HighPlains

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Even with a Nelson .15 engine, a Quarter Midget will not have ripping heart pounding speed. They were only slightly faster than a Rossi powered quickie back in the day. The Cox will be fine for sport speed, but if you want much faster, I would use at least a .21 to add some power.

Julian537

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Lets bring this thread back?

Since an ashley II is almost out of the question, because shipping is outrageous and no one imports them in the USA.

Has anyone flown one of these with a hot .21 or .25. What was your set-up

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

Matney sells quite a few of the older QM15 planes for guys doing Electric setup and quite a few run the .25-.35 size engines in them for speed/sport flying.

I like the .15 size Rivits myself I flew one years ago for QM15 racing.

ptulmer

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I've got one of these kits sitting on my workbench. There's also a Novarossi .15 w/pipe sitting next to it. What would be a good prop to start with? The NR claims 33k rpm, but don't offer suggestions for props that might actually make use of it's high rpm capabilities.

bob27s

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7x6 prop would be a good start - but its not going to get to 33K.

MyWay

If you find a 7/6 a bit to much load for the pipe to work you might try an apc 6 1/2 x6. It has the same load as apc 7x5. If you are looking for rpm, apc 6 1/2 x 5. These props will work well if the total weight of plane is less than 1.5 lbs.

ptulmer

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Thanks guys. NR recommends using a "light load" for breakin. Not having ran a high-po .15 like this, it wasn't clear. Seems like there's a 6.5x6 in my prop collection (don't we all have one!) so that should be good for breakin. The 7x6 will be the first flight prop. Keeping it around 1.5lbs seems like "Mission Impossible". Don't get me wrong, it's a nice kit. After all the problems I had getting the kit after I paid for it, I kinda lost interest in it. It's back at the top of the stack now. The main weight problem I see is that the engine alone weighs over 9oz. (not including the header/pipe) At least it won't build tail-heavy![sm=lol.gif]

MyWay

Sounds like a nice plane for a Webra 25. The Webra weighs 9 oz. and will pull a 7x10 at 17500 with the Jett tuned muffler.

Julian537

My Feedback: (9)

Ok,

Now that we all agree a .25 will fly well in this bird, I am going to have to order one of them.
Should be a real speed demon against a predator with a .25 or a viper. less wing and less drag.

[sm=72_72.gif]now all I need to do is learn how to sheet foam wings??????

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

sheeting is very simple - worry not.

If you are worried, you can order the plane with a sheeted wing

Also,

go to the Pattern, Classic Pattern forum
Find the Blue Angel build thread
Excellent example and process there.

mmattockx

The wing sheeting Bible:

http://www.mackrc.net/patternwings2/index.htm

It is for pattern wings, but the info and techniques are applicable to any balsa/foam wing.


Mark

Julian537

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MArk,

Thanks for the link to the wing sheeting. That guy is very detailed.
Is there another method using spray adhesive that someone knows about?

bob27s

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Do not use the spray adhesive on a speed plane. Not worth it in the long run.

At one time I use to use 3M 77. Worked ok. But they changed the forumla a few years ago, and it is no longer foam friendly.

Sheeting adhesives ---- white/wood glue --- zap finishing epoxy --- poly-u glue. I used the finishing epoxy most of the time.

Julian537

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Thanks BOB.

I like the finishing epoxy. I may use that. I really dont like the poly glue, because of the waste and cost.
I dont know if I am the only one, but once you open a bottle of Poly glue, it starts to absorb moisture and get thick and harden.
I do not use enough of it all the time to buy a bottle for a single project. It is fairly expensive for the small amount you get.

This is a hobby though...........
I guess I could just buy that Magnum and not buy Jett's or Rossi's

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

what I like about the finishing epoxy, is 1) it sands easy where it bleeds through the seams 2) it is very thin 3) you only need a small amount of it 4) reasonable working and cure time

I put a thin layer of epoxy on the wood.... then squeegie 98% of it off. Leaves just a very faint satin film on the wood. Then i ususally cheat a bit, and add a touch more epoxy around the edges. Lay up the sheeting on the cores, put the wings back in the core shells, and either weight it or vacuum bag the assembly. Ready for trimming, edging and sanding the next day.