BigBadJon

im lookin to get into flying prop jets. but i have a few questions. on how much harder are they really to fly then a normal prop plane? im flying a Sonic 500 from Sports aviation. my other question is. what is a good prop jet to start out with? id like retracts but they are not a must.

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

Hi Jon,

there are a few threads along these lines back a few weeks, but just for quick reference....

Most of the prop-jets fly more like quick pattern ships. Pretty smooth, stable. Sometimes the wing loading is up, so landing speeds end up a bit higher than sport planes. Not unreasonable though

If you want to build (actually the best way to get into prop jets)

Juno F-18 (60-90 size) or F-20 (46-50 size)
Great Planes Patriot XL (60-90) or Patriot .40 size, sometimes found in the marketplace or on ebay
AK Models SU-27, MIG-29 (60-90 size)
Great Planes F-14, F-15 or F-4 if you can find one on marketplace
Morris may still have T-45 kits

A few others good kits and plans out there, but I know these are all suitable for a pilot with at least intermediate building and flying skills.

ARF options...

Richmond/Vmar F-4, Mig-21 (60-90 size) both fly well - seem to build well too
Cermark F-16P (needs a 90) - outstanding airplane
Magnum R (.46-.50 size) available direct from Weston in the UK only at this time. Very quick.
-Weston .50 engine combo is a good deal if available
Protec F-15, Jaguar (.25-.35 size)
Morris Hobbies T-45 (.46-.50 size)
Sportsman/Global/Hobby People F-20 (.46-.50 size)
Lanier F-4 phantom (.46-.50 size) (I suggest avoiding the F-86 though - takes a good deal of attention to fly)
Kangke F-20 (.46-.50 size)

All of the kits listed are designed for retracts. Some of the ARFs are.

Anyway...... here is something to start with

Bob

BigBadJon

awesome thank you ive looked at a few so far. id like to build my own but im thinking of going with an arf first incase i smash it LOL. i wouldnt have wasted my time building heh. atm the best deal ive seen so far is kangke f-20 combo ( comes with a SK 50 engine) for $210. has no retracts but like i said im not overly picky on my 1st prop jet. the 2nd one will be a build and be as nice as realistic as i can get it.. thanks again for your info and ill let ya know how it goes.

Cyclic Hardover

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Good move!

vicman

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Ahhh yesss F-20.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

The kangke f-20 combo sounds like the deal !!

BigBadJon

Well i just purchased the F-20 tigershark from kangke with the sk 50 engine combo. and a new controller.. should be waiting for me when i get back to redlands Ca. ( home) till then i get to sit on my hands and dream about tearing up the skies at my local air field heh.. thanks for all info

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

....Welcome to RCU, BigBadJon....[sm=thumbup.gif]

I have one of those....been flying it for a few years....gettin' kinda
raggety....but still hauls butt !!

Flyboy Dave. [8D]

Red B.

If you want to build something from plans I suggest you build a Curare with a slightly thinned airfoil.
It is not a prop jet but a very sleek F3A design with a sexy anhedral stab (looks gorgeous for us Phantom fans).
With a suitable paint scheme and markings I'm sure it will look the part.
The plans are available from [link=http://www.rcstore.com/rs/general/detail.asp?catnum=fsp12761&catego=PL]Model Airplane News[/link].

/Red B.

Fxrs_tim

Red,

What engine are you running in your Curare? I've got one about 1/2 finished that I'm putting a Jett 91 in. Should be nice and fast once it's in the air.

Tim

kmtranmd

My Feedback: (71)

Good choice on the Kangke F20. I've had about 150 flights on mine and it's my favorite beater plane. I use this to fly in harsh windy 15-20mph condition, none of my other 13-15 warbirds handle wind as well. It's also my go to bird to practice high speed inverted low passes over the runway. It just has no bad habits. Only flaw is they don't make it with retracts option and I don't want to spend the time to hack it. i.e. reason why I buy ARFs. Other thing is the std covering and trim not ideal for flying in overcast days. It will disappear in a hurry...

jzinckgra

My Feedback: (11)

Fo those of you who build your F20's, when it came time to covering, what is the best way to cover the turtledeck near the edges? I am getting ready to cover mine and on my 1st F20 it was a PITA to avoid getting creases in the covering where the bottom of the tdeck meets the fuse topside. I used one piece, started on the top of the tdeck and did one side then the other. Is there a better way? It just gets hard to pull the covering tight and avoid wrinkles in that one area. tx.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

The best way I have found to do those seams is to cut a strip 3/8" and iron
it into the seam first with no wrinkles. Then the other pieces will come to
that area, and end in that strip....not quite to the bottom of the curve, just up
a hair to where it irons down flush without a wrinkle.

FBD.

Red B.

My high speed Curare (not the one pictured above) had a thinner wing (12%) than the original Curare did and was equipped with a Rossi 1.05 cu.in. pumped and piped ducted fan engine.
Using a 10"*9.5" carbon fibre prop made for me by a pylon pilot friend, I got a static rpm around 20k. It unwinded significantly in the air when it got on the pipe. I remember I had severe problems with getting the spinner balanced good enough.
I have no idea about what the top speed was, but it was scary fast. In straight and level flight it overtook competition F3D pylon models with ease. Even now, a couple of years years later on, my heart beat goes up a bit when I think about it.

/Red B.

Edited: removed some too obvious spelling mistakes