Extreme Speed Prop Planes Discuss the need for speed with fast prop planes (Screamin Demon, Diamond Dust, Shrikes or any REAL sound breakin'''' plane)

Modkat (Kingcat like design and build)

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Old 11-18-2006, 07:19 AM
  #151
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

hey mods, just catching up on this thread and came up on the next project.....looks awsome

i also came across a single engine look-a-like [link=http://ak-models.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AKM&Product_Code=RM-5&Category_Code=RichModel_GasPower]here[/link] and thought it might be a good "canard" trainer considering the price.

i know you've been in this project full force for some time, just wondering if you had got anymore done on the su-27 or if you was even still planning on finishing it.
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Old 11-18-2006, 09:55 AM
  #152
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: parrthd

i know you've been in this project full force for some time, just wondering if you had got anymore done on the su-27 or if you was even still planning on finishing it.
I've been getting a lot of inquiries about that plane. So many that I will have to finish it right after this one. Don't worry guys, I will complete it. Might be painting it instead of monokote though.
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Old 11-18-2006, 11:39 AM
  #153
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

that's what i was thinking as well. just my $.02 worth but i don't like the idea of iron on films on high speed planes. not that they don't work just fine, just my opinion.
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Old 11-19-2006, 12:36 AM
  #154
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

Just got my foam cutter wings. The hotwire worked flawlessly.

I began the former filling process using 0.75" expanded polystyrene foam and 3M #77 Super as the adhesive (figure 1). First, the 48" sheets were divided into 4 equal sections and glued one on top of another using the 3M. For accuracy, I built a jig out of a 2" x 4" and quick clamps to aid the cutting(figures 2-5). Second, the sections were sub-dived into 3" x 2.5" blocks (the distance between each former). Finally, the foam blocks were glued to the fuse (figure 6).

More to come,

Mods


What's Next?

1. Finish filling the plug

2. Secure all the foam block with a bead of epoxy.

3. Fill all crevices with non-shrinking Spackle

4. Start the "sand for symmetry" process

5. Prep for glassing
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Old 11-19-2006, 04:44 PM
  #155
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

Mods, i do admire your building skills > am a fan of your builds[sm=thumbup.gif]

but am not so sure about the marketing strategy tho when one can get this ARF for $129

http://www.nitroplanes.com/f4j.html

i am sure your plane will be much better quality, just not sure people will spend around $275 for a kit of this sort (hope i'm wrong )

cheers, V.

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Old 11-19-2006, 04:51 PM
  #156
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

Quote:
ORIGINAL: vasek

Mods, i do admire your building skills > am a fan of your builds[sm=thumbup.gif]

but am not so sure about the marketing strategy tho when one can get this ARF for $129

http://www.nitroplanes.com/f4j.html

i am sure your plane will be much better quality, just not sure people will spend around $275 for a kit of this sort (hope i'm wrong )

cheers, V.

This is very true and I've evaluated this very closely. I know I'm not going to get rich off this but there are some people who prefer kits. This project started out with me just making one for myself, but people began asking if I can kit it, so here I am.

Another way of looking at it is: I've cornered the market on the kit version of this bird because I'm the only person that offers one!

Thanks,

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Old 11-20-2006, 10:24 AM
  #157
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build


Quote:
ORIGINAL: vasek

Mods, i do admire your building skills > am a fan of your builds[sm=thumbup.gif]

but am not so sure about the marketing strategy tho when one can get this ARF for $129

http://www.nitroplanes.com/f4j.html

i am sure your plane will be much better quality, just not sure people will spend around $275 for a kit of this sort (hope i'm wrong )

cheers, V.

ARFs are nice, but only up to a point.....
The moment I have to modify, reinforce, alter, replace or recover any part of the thing, its not an ARF anymore. And at $50/h of my time, you would at that point be hard pressed to argue an apples to apples value.

Kits are not dead. They are making a comeback. The entire sport of model aviation centers upon the model - actually building a model - as had been done for many years. R/C has become a world with pilots, rather than modelers. The satisfaction of this sport for many (including me) is actually building something, creating a work of art, and then seeing it take to the skys. Ask any Free Flight or peanut scale modeler what I mean

Dont get me wrong, ARFs have their place - many are well built and good flying - but kits are more valuable to many out here.
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:56 AM
  #158
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

[X(] "And at $50/h of my time" [X(][X(] I want your job!!!
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Old 11-20-2006, 11:42 AM
  #159
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Blade47

[X(] "And at $50/h of my time" [X(][X(] I want your job!!!
(fully burdened )
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Old 11-21-2006, 10:40 AM
  #160
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

Just checking in. Looks great so far. Those laser cut parts sure are nice. Makes me think of Sig kits, just throw some glue into the box and shake it around, and out pops an airplane. Speaking of, I need to finish building my Somethin' Extra... It's frustrating when things keep happening and get in the way of progress.

Keep up the awesome work as usual! [sm=thumbup.gif]
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Old 11-21-2006, 04:03 PM
  #161
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Quote:
It's frustrating when things keep happening and get in the way of progress.

oh how we all know how true this is............
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Old 11-23-2006, 02:58 AM
  #162
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

One thing I love about the holidays is the opportunity to have marathon shop days. After the honey do list is complete, I can go in my shop and not come out until exhaustion sets in.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________

The Fuse Plug 1

Summary

The major foam shaping is done and the plug is starting to look like a fuse.


Construction

First, I filled in all of the voids that remained in the fuse and canopy. Then installed the hatch mount formers (figures 1 & 2). At this point it looks like something out of a sci-fi movie.


Figures 1 & 2


Second, I used my homemade hotwire machine to cut away anything that didn't look like an airplane using the formers as guides (figures 3 & 4).


Figures 3 & 4


Lastly, I spot checked the plug against the plans just to get and idea of how the shape is coming along (figures 5 & 6).


Figures 5 & 6


What's Next?

1. Coat the entire plug in spackling and sand until I see a fuse again [:'(]. (I hate sanding)

2. Simultaneously build the wing to fit check the plug before glassing begins.

3. Glass the plug and start the polishing process


More to come,

Mods
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Old 11-23-2006, 12:25 PM
  #163
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!

Looks great, Keep up the good work.
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Old 11-25-2006, 12:30 AM
  #164
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The Fuse Plug 2

Summary

Not much to report because I'm still sanding [:@]. To break the monotony, I began the wing construction.


Construction

I added spackling paste to the fuse and sanded out the fuse's rough shape (figures 1 & 2). I choose to use the DAP brand of spackle because it is non shrinking (figures 3 & 4). This stuff sands really easy and after glassing I'll use epoxy/filler to make it perfect.


Figures 1 & 2


Figures 3 & 4


I had trouble making the nose look right so I cut out the foam and replaced it with a 2" x 1" block of balsa. Worked out great (figure 5). Here's a quick shot of the wing ribs (figure 6).


Figures 5 & 6
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Old 11-25-2006, 01:32 PM
  #165
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Default RE: Kingcat-Like Design and Build

Niiiicccccceeeee!

Spar
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:43 AM
  #166
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Sparhawk

Niiiicccccceeeee!

Spar
Thaaaaaanks!
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________


The Fuse Plug 3

Summary

The spackling paste has served it's purpose by filling in the deep crevices in the foam. At this point every time I sand some of the paste off new cracks develop so I had to stop chasing my tail and go to the next level. Now it's time to give the fuse plug a coat of epoxy for hardness and start Bondo-ing. The Bondo will fill the areas missed/created by the spackling and be the final preparation before fiber glassing.


Construction

This is the fuse after the final coat of spackling paste (figure 1). The fuse then received a single coat of West Systems epoxy mixed with micro-balloons (to make it easier to sand) and allowed to cure (figure 2).

To quote Mike James "Sanding fiberglass is not fun. It's best to get as much shaping BEFORE adding fiberglass." I've found this to be very true. That is why I applied the coat of resin and Bondo now rather than later. This way there will be minimal shaping required, and hopefully less Bondo as well [:'(], after fiber glassing.


Figures 1 & 2


Wing Construction 1

Summary

I honestly did not think the wing would go together this fast and without the use of any squares or measuring. The center portion is nearly completed and it only took 3 hours. That includes the time used to enlarge the slots in the wing jigs. Turns out 3/32" ply is really not 3/32" [], so I had to enlarge the slots 0.005in. The future kits will use 1/8 ply in place of the 3/32 ply. The 1/8 ply is very accurate, cheaper, and the weight gained by increasing the width can be neutralized by enlarging the lightening holes in the ribs. It’s a win-win situation.


Construction

First, the major components were dry fit together over the plans (figure 1 & 2). Then the rib jib is slid into place. Perfect spacing is achieved in one motion.


Figures 1 & 2


Second, the assembly was pined to the board; it should be noted that only two pins are required to construct the center wing assembly (figures 3 & 4).


Figures 3 & 4


Third, the 9/32" brass tubing is slid into place between the two jigs (figure 5). The brass tubes keep the whole wing center assembly and end rib (R4) aligned at the same time. This negates the need special aligning tools. Then, the landing gear brackets were installed using #4 screws and blind nuts (figure 6). At this point all the components were glued together with CA/epoxy.


Figures 5 & 6


Lastly, the spars and other small components were installed and weights added while the glue cured.


Figures 7 & 8


What’s Next?

1. BONDO! & more sanding [sm=angry_smile.gif]

2. Finish building and sheeting the wing


More to come,

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Old 11-30-2006, 10:49 PM
  #167
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The Fuse Plug 3-1

Not much to report other than I'm still sanding [:'(]. Good news is that the plug is almost done and will be ready for glassing by this weekend (figures 1 & 2). Then, it's polishing time .


Figures 1 & 2

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Old 11-30-2006, 11:01 PM
  #168
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I must admire your determination and hard work ...Keep it up for sure... ( even the sanding [:'(] [:'(] ) going to be a fine product when done.
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Old 12-01-2006, 01:05 AM
  #169
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Blade47

I must admire your determination and hard work ...Keep it up for sure... ( even the sanding [:'(] [:'(] ) going to be a fine product when done.
Thanks. I'm making plenty of epoxy filler with this process .

Quote:
ORIGINAL: coolitdown40

Have you thought of a paint scheme for yours yet? Personally I'm using monokote and still looking for a scheme.
Well, I've been thinking if one for quite some time and made some black and white templates to try different schemes on (figures 1 & 2). I'm still earning my GIMP wings so my progress is slow. If you guys want to play around with them, have at it! Once you're done post them and inspire others.

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Old 12-01-2006, 01:42 AM
  #170
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Will do.
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Old 12-01-2006, 11:33 AM
  #171
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I feel so unworthy.....I have new repect for you mods.
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Old 12-01-2006, 11:37 AM
  #172
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nice work
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Old 12-03-2006, 05:28 PM
  #173
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On the MRM-RCModels website you state for the retracts, "SpringAir Oleo bored 701's for the mains and a firewall mounted 701 for the nose". Will Robart 521W1 Tri Gear 90 Deg Fire Mount Nose w/Wire work? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJZE4&P=7

Also, when you paint the plane do you paint directly on the balsa sheeting or do you put something over the balsa then paint. I've always used monokote so I wouldn't know if theres a special paint to use or even the right way to go about painting the plane.
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Old 12-03-2006, 08:04 PM
  #174
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Quote:
On the MRM-RCModels website you state for the retracts, "SpringAir Oleo bored 701's for the mains and a firewall mounted 701 for the nose". Will Robart 521W1 Tri Gear 90 Deg Fire Mount Nose w/Wire work? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJZE4&P=7
Yes, those will be more than adequate. I was planning on purchasing a pair for testing after the prototype is done. The mounting holes maybe in different positions but this can be easily adjusted.

Quote:
Also, when you paint the plane do you paint directly on the balsa sheeting or do you put something over the balsa then paint. I've always used monokote so I wouldn't know if theres a special paint to use or even the right way to go about painting the plane.
First, you must cover the part with fiberglass cloth, fill the weave with primer, then finish in the chosen paint scheme. Visit [link=http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/finishing_techniques/apply_fiberglass_finish/index.htm]www.airfieldmodels.com[/link] for a detailed tutorial on how to apply the fiber glass and how to paint it once it's cured. For the type of paint, most modelers end up buying an auto spray gun and a compressor for professional finishes, but a good paint job can be acheived using spray paint from Tower Hobbies.

Personally, I use the [link=http://www.stits.com/]Stits[/link] brand of paint. In the south, the humidity is 70+% most of the year. This makes spray paint haze up really quick. The polyester paint they sell resists this reaction.

Hope this helps,

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Old 12-03-2006, 09:50 PM
  #175
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Thanks, that helps a lot and it looks like I've got some research to do hehe. Does the fiberglass add any strength or more weight than monokote?
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