BCarter

Hey All,
Just received my shrike today and although I've been reviewing many posts I still have some questions I hope some poeple can give me advice on.

1. Motor choice. I have a 46FX with stock pipe (I could get a tuned pipe, just prefer not to spend the money), I also have a 61SF with a tuned pipe. I know everyone complains about balancing, I am already determined to move the firewall back 1" if not more. Is the 61 going to give me much more bang for the buck vs. the agrivation of possibly having to add weight to balance.

2. I read somewhere about leaving the last rib section off to shorten the wings. Comments?

3. I know the 10 size have wing problems. Does the 40 size kits? I really do love to pull High G turns and loops, suggestions for ensuring I keep my wings together? Carbon Fibre rods (ouch ouch on the pocket book), Fibre glass reinforcement ? (booooo for the weight).

I would also appreciate any other suggestions anyone might have.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. If anyone has links to this info I would sure appreciate it.

Mike Connor

My Feedback: (5)

The 61 is doable but I would probably stay with the 46FX with a 9x7 and inexpensive tower muffler. Keep balance and aileron flutter in mind while building. The 40 Shrike does not have the same wing problems as the 10 size. I built mine as the plans called for and it was plenty strong. Mine had accelerated stall/snap issues with high speed, high G turns so practice at altitude first.

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

If this is the Shrike 40 ARF, I don't think you need to strengthen the wing tube as one of the wings will probably tip stall and roll out before it pulls high G turns like a quickie.
More info, see post # 6 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_45...tm.htm#4506121
I flew an old kit Shrike 40 (non arf) and it was much better handling seemed lighter in the air....could it be the lack of landing gear?
I would not shorten the wings, it lands hot as it is. You do this later if you feel the need. Move the firewall back if you need to.
Put a 5 cell AA size NiMH battery pack as far to the rear as you can. If you must add wieght, make it work for you!
The OS 46 fx is a good engine choice, get a Mac’s pre-tuned quiet pipe to make it haul, it's worth it. Try an APC 9X8.
I mounted the engine sideways so the carb was closer to the centerline of the fuel tank (rotate engine as needed so the exhaust clears). If you pull a hard turn, you can hear the engine sag as high G's pull fuel back to the tank or the engine starts to lean early out as you go lower than half tank with a higher than tank carb.
Lastly, enjoy! It's a fine plane.

BCarter

Thanks for the responses guys!

As I continue to review the plans/instructions, and read posts about this plane I keep seeing great ideas! is there much benifit to cutting down on the size of the fuse ( height)? What about cutting the wings? If one wanted to reduce the thickness, how much would you take off? Would you follow the exact shape of the top/bottom or take a french curve and perhaps just take off 1/4 to 3/8" from top /bottom?

I know it was mentioned to mount the motor sideways, what about tanks? Suggestions? I think I've read that there are tanks for high speed planes.

Finall Alerons, I was considering replacing the stock ones that came in the kit with smaller ones to avoid flutter (was going to keep the elevator stock). Comments?

This is the kit version of the plane. In fact it's my first kit that I've ever built (have hopefully finished my crashing stage with ARF's). I had the Laser Arrow Delta as my first speed plane.

Thanks again for the responses.

b.

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

For what you are doing you don't need the cost and hassle of a bubbleless/bladder tank. Wrap the tank in the foam rubber that’s sold at the hobby shop. Most important that the foam rubber is in contact with the bottom of the tank and keep the tank for contacting anything hard (isolated). Sometimes it's ok to let the tank contact at one end such as the large fire wall hole where the tank's neck is intended to nest in, but if you have foaming problems you know why.
Don't change the ailerons! Thinner could increase the chance of flutter and narrower will reduce the roll rate (that's half the fun with this ship!). Just have tight servos and linkages.
A small tiny drop of CA in a sloppy clevis pin (while assembled) can take up extra play. Keep your hinge points tight yet allow for a 45 degree deflection.
Cutting down on your frontal area on the plane may not be worth the effort.

Mike Connor

My Feedback: (5)

If I was going for all out speed with a hot engine I would make airframe mods but probably not with a 46FX up front. You may be surprised how quick the Shrike is when build stock. If you do thin the wings I would definitely do the same mods to the top and bottom so the wing stays symmetrical. I found the ailerons more then needed and would shorten them a bit to help avoid flutter but do not make them thinner. The leading edge of the aileron should be at least as thick as the trailing edge of the wing and do not over bevel while sanding.

skull1971

if this is your first build of the 40, do it by the book, and use the fx, what you'll learn you can put in the next one. I have one, with pictures listed on the Shrike Club thread. I added gear and used a fx with stock muffler and a 10x8 prop it was pretty fast. It has hit the ground a few times pretty hard and has had no problems. Also PLEASE remember NO PLASTIC SPINNERS, got hit by one last weekend, hi rpm's and plastic don't mix.

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

What Mike said is right on the mark; "The leading edge of the aileron should be at least as thick as the trailing edge of the wing and do not over bevel while sanding."
Even a 1/64" thicker forward part of an aileron can't hurt but thinner one can kill a fast plane with flutter.

And I agree with Eric too. For your first build, keep it simple or you may have problems and never finnish it.
Plastic spinners can have balance issues too!