Extreme Speed Prop Planes Discuss the need for speed with fast prop planes (Screamin Demon, Diamond Dust, Shrikes or any REAL sound breakin'''' plane)

Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

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Old 02-28-2003, 12:48 AM
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A.L. Spinz
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

Hello Speed Peeples.... I need help. I just purchased the Kangke F20 and while inspecting the manual, I notice they aren't very detailed. Alot of it I can kind of figure it out. But when it comes to the instruction on the rear vert. stab the diagram makes absolutely no sense to me. Please help or give your advice if you are familiar with this issue.

BTW, what a great looking plane, I cant wait to get her finished and ready for flight this season (if it ever stops snowing). This is my first prop jet so I want to build true, I want to build strong.

With Leo .46 (cheapie) with a macs one-peice, 9X7....what kind of speed can I expect out of this thing. When I open the box it looked ready to take off! Anywhere near 100...I'll be happy.

Thanks
A.L Spinz (Aluminum spinners, if you when wondering)
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Old 02-28-2003, 01:07 AM
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Flyboy Dave
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

The verticle stab is hinged,and glued on like any other
stab....only the the control horn is inside the plane.
You get the verticle all hooked-up before you do the
horizontal stab.
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Old 02-28-2003, 01:12 AM
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

Then the push rod is installed just like any other.
I used fiberglass rods.

Then the horiz. is hinged....and the push rod connected
to it. Then the horiz. assy. with the rod connected to it
is slipped in from the rear.
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Old 02-28-2003, 01:16 AM
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

Then the elevator push rod is connected to the servo....
and the horiz. stab is screwed on to the plane for easy
removal, and any servicing that may have to be done
inside later. Both control arms are concealed.

And yes....it will do 100...easy.
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Old 02-28-2003, 01:36 AM
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Flyboy Dave
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

Mount up the motor, pipe, prop and metal spinner
before you start the radio and servo installation.
I'm using a long-pipe Rossi .45 in mine. I had to
mount the servos as far back as I could get them,
and the battery is a flat-pack mounted in the extreme
rear of the plane...flat up against the rear bulkhead
at the tail cone. (just clearing the elevator)

Have fun....Dave.
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Old 02-28-2003, 01:41 AM
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A.L. Spinz
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Default Rear Stab

Do I work the control horn up thru the hole in the rear of the fuse and then drill a small hole in the control surface and slide it over the ca hinges and the end of the control arm together? Did that make sense?
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Old 02-28-2003, 01:47 AM
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A.L. Spinz
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Default Fly....

BTW thanks for all the input. This plane goes together very different from my Extras, that's why I'm a bit disorientented. Is it common for the battery at the rear for balance, I imagine?

Once again much 'PROPZ' to ya', yes pun intended......
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Old 02-28-2003, 01:57 AM
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

Yes, I think that is how it went....fish the wire up, and
epoxy it into the rudder....then fit the rudder to the
verticle....and CA the hinges....

I put the battery in the extreme rear, cause I hate to
add weight....
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Old 02-28-2003, 02:39 AM
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Flyboy Dave
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Default And by the way, my friend....

....glue the snot out of the verticle fin, and the adapter
on the fuselage....my Buddy lost his when the factory
glue joint failed....and the whole thing blew off !!!
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Old 03-01-2003, 06:14 AM
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A.L. Spinz
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Default oh no......

Yes, I'll take you up on that.....was he able to maintain control....I imagine that being pretty difficult but anything is possible I guess.

I do tell, these instructions blow.....I have the Kangke Extra 300 .60, and the instructions were almost a bit too detailed. then I go and get this thing and they read do this do that but doesn't tell you how......some creative thinking needed on my part I suppose....Once again thanks.....

Anything else I need to know? This is my first one....Got everything pretty much done except the guts....
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Old 03-01-2003, 06:19 AM
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Default the vertical......

glad you mentioned the vertical stab.....after reading your reply yanked on the adapter portion....two times..snapped right out. Not good thanks dude. Oh she will get some epoxy tomorrow, you can bet. :surprised
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Old 03-01-2003, 06:34 AM
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Flyboy Dave
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

No, he was not able to maintain control....when the stab
blew off it went out of control, and was totaled.

He bought another one, but never put it up....and I ended
up with it. He told me about how the other one crashed
and when I checked the stab mount....sure enough, it
was loose too.

Good thing you checked that....
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Old 03-01-2003, 01:16 PM
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

Hey Dave,

Actually, I was doing a low inverted pass and when I started to pull out of it, the whole assembly came out....rudder and adapter. I actually landed this out of control jet on it's wheels (don't ask me how). As I recall, that was the extent of the repair, so it did fly again. The "next" time it crashed, I wasn't so lucky. That's when I bought the replacement, that you now have.

Shortly after this happened, I had went to the Pasadena R/C Show and confronted Cermark with this MFG problem, and all I got from them was a chuckle. Cermark no longer produces the F-20's, however, and from what I can tell, the Kangke F-20's are identical and are probably built at the same factory.

A.L.,

My point being this: Even if it's an ARF...any ARF, these MUST be gone thru with a fine tooth comb. It's far better to spend a little extra time enforcing here and there BEFORE it flies, rather than spending your time sifting thru the scattered remains.

Another reason why these R/C sites are an asset to modeling, there's always a good chance that someone has had experience with the particular plane your workin on, and can point out some of the faults or potential problems, if any.

Have fun, and be sure to let us know how the maiden goes!

You won't be disapointed the way these fly....eh Dave??

Gary
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Old 03-01-2003, 01:46 PM
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

http://www.rcuniverse.com/attachment...&postid=729378

I got my F-20 to balance perfectly by mounting the elevator servo right on the horizontal stab. An added benefit is that I could use a short stiff rod from the servo to the elevator. My receive and battery is under the lighten plywood. See above link for picture.

Dave, I just noticed you had your elevator servo up with the throttle and rudder servos If you are having to add any weight to get balance it you may want to try this.
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Old 03-01-2003, 02:01 PM
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Default Yo, AirGar....

...well, I had the facts straight....LOL....just the sequence
was a bit off. This is what happens when you
get old, and get CRS....he he. I remember you telling
me about the rudder thing....and checked mine, and I
wiggled it back and forth a couple times and yanked on
it....and it came right off.... All's it had was a
couple specs of glue on it.

A.L. Spinz is gonna be in for a suprise when he hammers
that little sucker....heh heh, remember my maiden flight ?

I had to remanufacture all the horiz. parts you see in
post #4....they were all warped beyond salvage....I guess
that thing hung in your rafters too long. Do you remember
how the balance was on your first one ?

I got the same chuckle from Cermark when I told them
about the elevator servo problem on the big F-20. :stupid:
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Old 03-01-2003, 03:30 PM
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

AHHHHH yes, the CRS syndrome.....have had it for awhile now!

Yeah, I remember your maiden quite well....heh heh, BTW, how long did it take before your knees stopped knocking?

Yesirree, when he puts that hammer down, he may be in for a pleasant suprise!

As I recall, it balanced fine with the OS .61FX in the nose.

Gary
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Old 03-01-2003, 04:43 PM
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A.L. Spinz
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Default Dropping the Hammer.....

So the surprise that I'm in for sounds like I'm feeling out the the plane for maiden flight....get her all trimmed and level......testing tip stall characteristics....doing a roll or two to check responsiveness....testing all my in-flight control surfaces for function...line 'er up over one end of the field....full throttle....and poof...and the knees start to wobble.....

BTW....my instructionsdo illustrate installing the elev. servo directly to the horiz. stab. Maybe I'll get lucky with balancing per Kappner's post.....we shall see....hehehe
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Old 03-01-2003, 05:03 PM
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Flyboy Dave
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Default It's a long story....

....but if you epoxyed those balsa mounts to the stab,
and screwed the servo down to the mounts....as per
the plans....your asking for big trouble. The servo will
break loose, and you'll lose the elevator. NOT GOOD !

Don't ask me how I know this....the memory is too
painful. If you mounted the servo as per the instructions,
get two skinny inch and a half bolts, and some nuts and
washers.....and bolt the servo mounts to the stab.

Trust me on this one too.....
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Old 03-01-2003, 06:58 PM
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Default Once again....yet another revalation.....

Thanks...I'll try that....also where exactly does the tank sit in the fuse.....it can slide all the way up behind the firewall....but I dont hintk that's supposed to happen being it sits on it's side....so I am to assume that it sits where the front hatch is behind the front gear....

Once again my instructions gives me no guidance....just some guidance would help from the manual....what does a guy gotta do? I guess log on to rcuniverse with all the other friendly flyers.....thanks Dave..
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Old 03-01-2003, 07:23 PM
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Flyboy Dave
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

The tank is a joke....they don't fit worth a darn. I bought
3 tanks for it and none of them would fit....because you
can't get in there with the grinder to open up the formers.
If I was starting again from scratch, I'd cut the bottom of
the fuse out to expose the tank area, and grind the formers
so a proper tank can be installed. I know you shouldn't have
to do this on an ARF, but you will see what I'm taliking about.

The big Cermark F-20 is the same way.... :stupid:
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Old 03-01-2003, 08:33 PM
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Default Rear Stab on Kangke F-20 .40

No, the tank has to go all the way forward....but it
just doesn't fit right. Cut a hatch out here, and open up
the formers so a decent tank can be slipped in from the
rear as normal. You might also want to glue in some wood "guides", so if necessary the tank can be removed by pushing it from the front with a dowel....all the way back out.

Excuse my paint shop skills.

Dave.
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Old 03-01-2003, 08:51 PM
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Default da' tank....

used some creative thinking....thinking outside of the box on this one....I realized that I could fit the tank in sideways and adjust the vent pipe in the tank to point upward toward the top. So even though the tank is on its side it should essentially perform the same.....I have a headache now....gonna put the plane off to the side for a few days....no rush cant fly anyhow...

:spinnyeye
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Old 03-01-2003, 09:02 PM
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Default a new hatch?

Thanks for the suggestion...if my concoction doesn't seem to pan out, I'll take you up on that idea...I'm forming a deep relationship this ship and lots of thought and energy....if she goes in....I'm not pickin' up the peices...I'm bringing a shovel! LOL....building is not one of my fun past times, I dont have the space I need...

On a good note....man my Extra is a thing of beauty! And went together like butter on toast....
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Old 03-01-2003, 09:10 PM
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Flyboy Dave
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Default YO, A.L.,....

....right on, walk away from it for awhile....

Here's a couple of things to think about....It's your plane.
For one thing, the tank doesn't fit...we know that.
Theres no way to properly rubber mount the tank.
There's no way to fuel proof the tank compartment.It's a
small tank....short flights.
See that screw on cap ? How long do you think that thing
is gonna hold up before it leaks and brings tears....

A little surgery, and a proper tank will take about 3 hrs.
Get out the razor saw....once you make the first cut....
it's a done deal.... Shore up the firewall while your
in there, and check the fit of the nose wheel gear in the gear block. Mine was loose as a goose, and had to be replaced.
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