My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
03-24-2003, 05:12 PM
#1
Thread Starter
My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
well....after crashing my other magnum due to complete pilot stupidity, i decided to get a new one, and a west engine instead of using my old Topaz 46 engine 
So....this is my first engine that has a pipe, and i seem to remember someone writing something about shortening/cutting the pipe? or header? or something like that to get the best performance.
so guys...every help apreciated...
SJ.
So....this is my first engine that has a pipe, and i seem to remember someone writing something about shortening/cutting the pipe? or header? or something like that to get the best performance.
so guys...every help apreciated...
SJ.
03-24-2003, 06:33 PM
#2
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My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
Put it on the plane like it comes out of the box.
The pipe will be set too long, but never mind for now.
Break the engine in without fiddling with the pipe... the plane will fly, no sweat.
When the engine is broke in (it will need some time), start by setting the pipe. Dig out your tach for this job...
Start the engine and tweak the needle for maximum rpm, then back off just a little and stop the engine. Note the maximum reached rpm.
Now shorten the header or pipe 1/4". Put it back on the plane and secure.
Start the engine again and after it has warmed up, tweak the needle again for max rpm and back off again a few hundred rpm. Again note the maximum reached rpm. It should (will) be slightly higher then the first run.
Continue this procedure until no rpm is gained compared to the preceeding run. It is possible that you even loose some rpm at a certain point, that's when your pipe becomes too short for the rpm you're running.
The pipe should be set slightly too short for ground running, because the engine will unload in the air and rev up more.
Ideally, your engine shouldn't get "on the pipe" on the ground. You should prop the engine so that it comes on the pipe when the engine unloads and revs up in the air. If you don't know what getting on the pipe is, then test this on the ground with a slightly lighter prop than the one you will fly the plane with.
When the engine gets on the pipe, you will hear a distinct jump in the rpm and a change in the engine sound.
Be careful not to run the engine for prolonged periods with the pipe set too short, because this will cause overheating problems, and difficulties in getting the mixture right.
All this may sound a little complicated when you have no experience with it, but you'll soon get the hang of it if you put your mind to it, and listen carefully to what the engine is doing.
No one can give you a value like "the pipe should be set at this or that length..." It all depends on the fuel you're using, prop you're running, how high you are ASL, ect.
You'll have to figure it out for yourself.
The pipe will be set too long, but never mind for now.
Break the engine in without fiddling with the pipe... the plane will fly, no sweat.
When the engine is broke in (it will need some time), start by setting the pipe. Dig out your tach for this job...
Start the engine and tweak the needle for maximum rpm, then back off just a little and stop the engine. Note the maximum reached rpm.
Now shorten the header or pipe 1/4". Put it back on the plane and secure.
Start the engine again and after it has warmed up, tweak the needle again for max rpm and back off again a few hundred rpm. Again note the maximum reached rpm. It should (will) be slightly higher then the first run.
Continue this procedure until no rpm is gained compared to the preceeding run. It is possible that you even loose some rpm at a certain point, that's when your pipe becomes too short for the rpm you're running.
The pipe should be set slightly too short for ground running, because the engine will unload in the air and rev up more.
Ideally, your engine shouldn't get "on the pipe" on the ground. You should prop the engine so that it comes on the pipe when the engine unloads and revs up in the air. If you don't know what getting on the pipe is, then test this on the ground with a slightly lighter prop than the one you will fly the plane with.
When the engine gets on the pipe, you will hear a distinct jump in the rpm and a change in the engine sound.
Be careful not to run the engine for prolonged periods with the pipe set too short, because this will cause overheating problems, and difficulties in getting the mixture right.
All this may sound a little complicated when you have no experience with it, but you'll soon get the hang of it if you put your mind to it, and listen carefully to what the engine is doing.
No one can give you a value like "the pipe should be set at this or that length..." It all depends on the fuel you're using, prop you're running, how high you are ASL, ect.
You'll have to figure it out for yourself.
03-24-2003, 06:54 PM
#3
Thread Starter
My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
Ohh man.... I thought this would be easy :-)
Thank you for the exelent advise. You realy cover everything I need to know!.
Apreciate it, thanks SJ.
Thank you for the exelent advise. You realy cover everything I need to know!.
Apreciate it, thanks SJ.
03-26-2003, 09:35 AM
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My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
You have balanced that spinner i take it 
i thought you had a Carbon prop on that at first.
The pipe is well set up right out the box and wont disapoint, that was the whole idea of the package, Weston didnt want problems by people trying there own stuff and moaning. however, once your used to it and the engines ran in do exaclty what Rudeboy suggested and your smile will get a little bit bigger
i thought you had a Carbon prop on that at first.The pipe is well set up right out the box and wont disapoint, that was the whole idea of the package, Weston didnt want problems by people trying there own stuff and moaning. however, once your used to it and the engines ran in do exaclty what Rudeboy suggested and your smile will get a little bit bigger
03-26-2003, 03:38 PM
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My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
Oh yes i forgot.... get some Diamond tape and put it on the LE of the carbon graphics, otherwise theres a good chance they'll fly off on the current batches.
Talking of Jett 50's, hopefully there will be a Jett Fire 50 in a Magnum here sometime soon. Be interesting to see what this big name engine can do
Talking of Jett 50's, hopefully there will be a Jett Fire 50 in a Magnum here sometime soon. Be interesting to see what this big name engine can do
03-26-2003, 07:19 PM
#12
Thread Starter
My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
hehe...yea, it`s on the pile.... :-)
No, I havn`t balanced the prop/spinner. The prop on it in the picture was only put there to check the spinner/prop distance.
Im Going to use APC props, like I had on my last one....
As to the black covering, I think they have done something new to it compared to my old model. When I had to cut away the black covering on the tailplane, the stuff was actualy quite hard to rip off....
SJ.
No, I havn`t balanced the prop/spinner. The prop on it in the picture was only put there to check the spinner/prop distance.
Im Going to use APC props, like I had on my last one....
As to the black covering, I think they have done something new to it compared to my old model. When I had to cut away the black covering on the tailplane, the stuff was actualy quite hard to rip off....
SJ.
03-26-2003, 09:17 PM
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My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
SJN,
The plane looks great. Mine just came in yesterday. Can you tell me where you got the matching purple tubing to connect the header to the pipe? This is a very nice touch.
The plane looks great. Mine just came in yesterday. Can you tell me where you got the matching purple tubing to connect the header to the pipe? This is a very nice touch.
03-27-2003, 04:44 AM
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My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
Lucky you....
Mine had no tubing in it nor did the contents list say it was included. I did find some on tower hobbies site and I went ahead and ordered some. It would have been nice to have it included, would have saved me $12.00 with shipping.
Mine had no tubing in it nor did the contents list say it was included. I did find some on tower hobbies site and I went ahead and ordered some. It would have been nice to have it included, would have saved me $12.00 with shipping.
03-27-2003, 05:24 AM
#17
My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
My friend just got his Magnum the other day. Very Nice.
I just wonder about the elevator pushrod set up...the press fit of wire into the tubing...looks like a chance to fail.
I would Also cross pin the Cya hinges, or at least drill in a wicker hole.
just my .02
Bob flying Whiplash #2
I just wonder about the elevator pushrod set up...the press fit of wire into the tubing...looks like a chance to fail.
I would Also cross pin the Cya hinges, or at least drill in a wicker hole.
just my .02
Bob flying Whiplash #2
03-27-2003, 10:46 AM
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My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
I dont know about the wires, mine came built but theres expoxy on them.. i guess you make a few dents in the wire with wire cutters and then put some expoxy in the tubes and push away. their not threadded??? never seen one let go here.
As for hingers, yes pin, my mates came loose on the test flight the other day, didnt loose the model luckley
As for hingers, yes pin, my mates came loose on the test flight the other day, didnt loose the model luckley
03-27-2003, 03:05 PM
#19
Thread Starter
My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
I hate the suplied elevator tubes/rods.
I just couldnt make them rund free enough because of the stiff wire.
I used the yellow inner rod from the blue plastic Sulivan pushrods. They fit perfectly into the ones glued into te magnum.
No more binding.
SJ.
I just couldnt make them rund free enough because of the stiff wire.
I used the yellow inner rod from the blue plastic Sulivan pushrods. They fit perfectly into the ones glued into te magnum.
No more binding.
SJ.
03-27-2003, 06:54 PM
#21
My new magnum and Eurotek engine !!
I have two magnums.
Do not use the supplied plastic elevator push rods. They are very brittle.
Go over the edges of the black decals with clearcoat or some other clear varnish. This seals them on.
I found the stated centre of gravity to be to far forward, which made for very fast landings. I have moved my battery to a more rearward position by cutting a hatch on the underside.
It is virtually impossible to stall this plane. It is competely viceless.
Do not use the supplied plastic elevator push rods. They are very brittle.
Go over the edges of the black decals with clearcoat or some other clear varnish. This seals them on.
I found the stated centre of gravity to be to far forward, which made for very fast landings. I have moved my battery to a more rearward position by cutting a hatch on the underside.
It is virtually impossible to stall this plane. It is competely viceless.
