Extreme Speed Prop Planes Discuss the need for speed with fast prop planes (Screamin Demon, Diamond Dust, Shrikes or any REAL sound breakin'''' plane)

OutLaw build review

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Old 03-13-2008, 09:01 PM
  #1  
freakingfast
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Default OutLaw build review

When the red white & blue Outlaw showed, it came with an outer box that had seen better days from UPS.
There was a crease and some punctures that at first had me thinking the worst, but the inner box and plane were unharmed. Internal packaging was fair, not allowing for much crush safety.

Now for the real good news, this was the best covering job that I’ve ever seen! I still went over the seams with and iron and rubbed down a few loose spots on the sheeting with a heat gun. When I was cutting the covering away for the vertical stabs and servo compartments, I noticed how cut and tear resistant the covering was. It would have been a nice touch if they had covered the fire wall area and supplied some covering for the gap seals and punched holes that are likely to appear from use. I went to the LHS and found no match for the red in Ultracote or Monocoat so clear Ultra for the gap seals were used.

The sanding and shaping were smooth and immaculate. The quality of the balsa and aircraft ply were A+ and the gluing and the pre-assembled fit up were above average except in the inside firewall area where it looked a bit open and shy of glue. Some thin CA chased with thick, easily solved that problem. CA was also use around the top of the main compartment, bottom servo compartments and servo mounts on the hatches.
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:04 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

All the three pieces that form the vertical stab (bottom, top rear and forward top) all had to be trimmed for fit. The bottom stab was first and was shaped to match the bottom curve. The top rear stab was filed to remove the laser burn and to let it seat deeper so that drops all the way down the slot to touch the bottom sheeting for strength. The forward stab on the main hatch was lowered the most with about 1/8” removed from the bottom so that its top edge blends in to the stab to the rear of it.

The slots for all the CA hinges were perfectly centered, spaced and the correct depths. If the recommended servos are used they will fit perfectly with no modifications at all. The slots on top of the wing did need to be elongated a bit and the recommended Du-bro’s super strength long servo arms worked fine. I did a little extra work to throttle servo mounting adaptor provided. The mounting holes were first drilled into the adaptor, and then it was held into place to mark were the screws would enter the side of the compartment. Those four marks were slotted so the mounting screws can pass through. The adaptor was glued into position and the servo was than installed using four flanged self tapping socket head cap screws, this is so you can get at them with a ball drive.
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:05 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

The two short push rods were defective; the threads on one end were no good, just grooves with no lead, LOL. A 4-40 die was used on the bad end and a clevis was threaded on and secured with red Loctite instead of the ball joint the instructions called for. The servo arm and control horn for the rudder had to be shorter than what’s shown in the instructions or it will collide with the elevon. Perhaps it would have been better to have mounted the rudder servo on it’s side in a tray with the arm protruding out the top much like the wing servos. This would eliminate any chance of the arm snagging on turf or grass and clean up the air stream a bit.
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:07 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

The throttle push rod has a Z- bend on one end and an EZ connector for the other end. This would be fine if the throttle arm on the carb is plastic but the OS 32 and Webra 36 they are metal, and this metal to metal contact could cause interference on some 72 MHz systems. I put the Z- bend in the servo arm and soldered on a threaded brass coupler so that a plastic clevis or ball could be used on the throttle arm.


The antenna tube entrance was placed so that it could only be accessed from the fuel tank area. You must feed in the antenna wire first than install the tank and its restraint. If the tube had emerged from the shear web near by, it would have been easier. The glue they used to hold the tube was insufficient so some CA was added than the tube was cut about 1/8” above the surface to allow for the fuel tank placement. After feeding (inching) the antenna into the tube, it was later discovered that the other end was curling up around the right wing servo. Not good. It turns out that the antenna tube is too short (72MHz band) and the tube exits into the rear of the wing servo compartment. Using a long small drill (a hole centering tool) a hole was drilled in the center of the next rib as far back in the compartment as it was easy to reach than the antenna was fed across.
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:09 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

The fuel tank and stopper were of good quality. There are three spots in the stopper that a tube can pass through, normally you must puncture a membrane but in this case they were so thin that you should plug the third hole if you don’t use it or you could have a leak. A sheet of ¼” Du-bro’s foam rubber was placed under the length of the tank. This was done by placing the foam in position first than a piece of plastic from one of the bags in the kit was placed on top of it. The tank was than easily slid into place. More foam was tucked into the upper corners and on the tank restraint.

The engine mount was drilled for the four engine mounting screws. The hole size for those screws would have been nice to know as I had to keep making the hole size bigger so that I could turn the screws. Make sure you start with a good sharp blade on your screwdriver because the slots in the screws aren’t very deep. Blue Locktite was added to thread of the screws that hold the mount to the firewall. One of the screws in the firewall striped before it was close to being satisfactory tightened. The fuel tank than had to be removed and the four blind nuts were knocked out and replaced as well as the screws.

The aluminum skid was used since the engine is an OS 32 sx. The hole size for the three screws would have been nice to know here too. The Webra 36 may be a better fit here as it’s carb can be turned and the fuel inlet boss carefully pressed out and rotated to the rear.

The CG is about 11 7/8” measured from the rear and this is easily adjusted by moving the battery forward or aft. The battery placed on the right side of the compartment was not nearly enough to compensate for the engine’s left leaning cylinder and the Macs pre tuned pipe and header, so a ½ oz. of lead was added into the right wing tip for lateral balance.
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:11 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

In the main compartment I went with a 1500mah 2/3A size 5 cell pack for its high current dump capability, small size and lesser weight than a AA pack. The receiver is a Hitec Electron 6 dual conversion; it’s the best 72MHz receiver I’ve ever used. I replaced the antenna wire with another wire that has a harder vinyl cover so it’s easier to push or pull in to an antenna tube. Some wall to phone extension cords have the perfect size wires to cannibalize. An Mpi combination switch, charge and battery checker was used as I swear by these things. The left rear cover mounting hole has a piece of 1/8” ply added under it so it will be stronger as it also holds the tune pipe mounting bracket.

Compartment pictures shown before protective foam rubber is installed for clarity.
The engine has been run in on a stand and everything is good to go.
Next week I will give it its maiden flight. Ill let you know how it goes. This week/weekend the local RC flying sites are closed as the Blue Angels have requested. They are 400’ feet over my house and Im lovin it!
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:03 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

Great looking plane, great job on the review.
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Old 03-14-2008, 01:18 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

nice.... and well done on the review
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Old 03-14-2008, 08:42 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

Good job. Mine had it's maiden yesterday with the same engine and pipe combo you have. It is a blast to fly, I've put 10 flights on mine from yesterday and today. You don't have to be very aggressive with the rates to start with. On high rates it's a blur but on low rates it's a ***** cat. I run 3 rates and just split the difference for the mid rates. Generally I perfer the mid rates. With some airspeed mine snaps like mad on the elevator or rudder. Don't be shy on sitting up a good approch on landing, this thing has a great glide rate and will really slow down well for landing. I've had a couple dead sticks and the only thing to do if your wind open and loose the engine is grab a bunch of altitude and then just glide around and sit up a nice landing. The needle sucks hanging off the bottom, I'm going to try a remote needle from a .46 attached to the firewall and if that works out well, I'm going to hack the needle off the .32 with a dremel.
I know you are going to hate me asking you this, but please pull the hatch off and put some tape around your rx crystal if you didn't already.
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:26 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

Mine is electrified and will maiden on Sunday. Im starting out tame with 800watts 6S turning a APC pylon 7.8X7 at 32amps, I need to tach but my AUW ready to fly is 54oz. And the best part is I'can get to 100oz thrust when I prop up to 50amps, and the motor wont quit in the wildest of gyrations.

I've read that this plane was outfitted to over 70oz and handled the weight fine.

Did you get a weight minus fuel for this build?
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Old 03-14-2008, 10:20 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

c/f
I'm going electric also, I mounted an AXI 2820/10 on mine and I'm planning to run a 3S2P setup.
What motor are you using?
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Old 03-14-2008, 10:59 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

ORIGINAL: badazzbusa

grab a bunch of altitude and then just glide around and sit up a nice landing. I know you are going to hate me asking you this, but please pull the hatch off and put some tape around your rx crystal if you didn't already.
badazzbusa, this will be my second Outlaw, the first is a kit and still working fine with hundreds of flights, it has three wire skids for hard surface landing. Sounds like fingernails on a blackboard when it touches down LOL. The landing plan for this one is to bring it in low over the deep grass and keep holding the off nose high until it’s so slow it just plops down. I tried this a few times with my first one and it works great, it should be even better with this one because its feels lighter (I need a new scale).

The rx crystal has the silicone rings around it. The crystal and the plugs are always taped down. Thanks for the heads up anyway


I got the second one to compare it to the original kit version and to let friends fly it, to get them hooked

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Old 03-15-2008, 12:07 AM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

FF, looks like a blast to fly.....how can you stand to wait another week?
Will this plane flat spin?
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Old 03-15-2008, 12:35 AM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

I got my flying overload in last weekend, even got sunburned.

Yes it will flat spin, and you have your choice of traditional or upside down. To pop out of it, just let the sticks center. If the engine should die (low fuel, my bad), center sticks than opposite rudder, point it down to glide.
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:22 AM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

put some tape around your rx crystal if you didn't already.
Are you serious [X(] ?
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:04 AM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

Tape your crystals on all planes, especially if you have older JR receivers....
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:14 AM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

Good deal FF, just wanted to make sure. I can't comment on the kit outlaw but this ARF will slow down real well for a easy landing in the grass. Everyone that has seen mine fly thinks it's crazy, I put all the throw on the ailerons I could get and I can't even guess on the roll rate, it's a blur. Everyone says they couldn't keep up with it to fly it. I didn't tell them at a straight and level flight you can just nail the ailerons and it will continue straight and level while rolling like crazy.
Strykaas, crystals do fall out and extensions come unpluged. Tape them all up.
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:44 AM
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I take it that you haven’t yet tried the "Kentucky Pile driver" or you'd be talking about that. Insanely violent maneuver.
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:47 AM
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Tape your crystals on all planes, especially if you have older JR receivers....
This is the first time I read this. Actually I have used Sanwa RX over the years and Graupner RX recently. Plugging and unplugging the servos wires hurts my fingers so much I don't think any g force could unplug them. Regarding the quartz, maybe I haven't flown wild enough birds... I'll take it seriously and tape them.
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Old 03-15-2008, 02:37 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

Some plugs and crystals have loose sockets in XR's here in the states, so I don't take chances. I also tape all extension cables or battery to switch connections.
I always make sure the wires can’t get into servo arms Z bends or push rods, even to the point of making guards out of paper plates to accomplish this.
Sometimes it takes to loose a plane to learn things [:@]

Oh this reminds me, over the last 6 months I’ve purchased eleven Hitec HS-5475HS Digital servos, including 3 for the Outlaw. Of those eleven I found four that the red lead connector was not properly seated in the plug to the point that the little plastic finger engages the connector. This was discovered when I almost crashed my W.M. P-51, I saw one aileron go nuts at run up. Check those pins and connectors!
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Old 03-16-2008, 02:59 PM
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Interesting input FF. By the way, my Outlaw has a problem with the rudder. The rudder touches the rudder fin at the top in neutral position. Did you have the same problem ? The sticker "QC passed" was applied on the plastic bag holding the rudder fin / rudder assembly. These Chinese people definitely don't know what "Quality Control" means, they plain suck. I'm obliged either to buy 1 meter long of red Oracover and/or red paint with the same color. I have thought of slightly crushing the rudder at the top, but it disgusts me.
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Old 03-16-2008, 07:13 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

No, my rudder clears the vertical stab over-hang with a small even gap.
Oracover? is that the maker of the covering?
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Old 03-17-2008, 04:10 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

Labelled on your Outlaw card box "COVERED IN GENUINE ORACOVER". It is exactly the same as ULTRAKOTE (USA) and PROFILM (UK). Just different marketing name for the very same product.

You're lucky for the rudder. [&o]

Did you see how the rudder servo was installed on the e-version ? It seems clever, it is mounted from the inside of the hatch. It then protrudes much less... Do you think that this kind of mounting reduces the elevon/ rudder collision ? What you have suggested sounds like the most efficient solution, I'll try it out.
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Old 03-17-2008, 04:18 PM
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Default RE: OutLaw build review

Strykass.

Your scarring me, the control surface hinges are not glued in from factory, you must glue them. If you had a rudder scraping the vertical fin its just a matter of elongating the hinge slots with an exacto blade. I did have to to this on mine to get proper clearances on rudder to fin.

Am I missing something??
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:12 PM
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Am I missing something??
heh no I think you're damn right. What got me is that they so strong to remove [&:]. I have checked the ailerons, these were much more lose so I would have suspected that same thing on the rudder fin. Thanks anyway [sm=thumbup.gif]

By the way , should I bother taping the hinge lines ?
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