qwertypemdas

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I've soloed my trainer (kit built) and I'm pushing it's limits in 3d and speed and it's to trainer-ish now. I'm looking into my next plane and I'm wondering what would be the fastest 2nd plane you guys would reccomend. It's a pretty stupid question but My flying abilities impress many paople at the field and I think I'm ready for a really fast plane (smight my confidence if you dare). What would be a good plane that goes maybe 100mph+ and slow reasonably for landing. Yay, that sounds like a great plane. Does one exist? It needs to be a kit because I'm an experienced modeler and I don't like arfs. So plz leave ur idea's or comments or what ever. Also i fly my trainer in 20mph winds with no problem. I flew a foamy and learned to hover. I think I can handle speed. Is there special skill required for scale light speed?

cobratraxxas69

My Feedback: (31)

I'm quite fond of the Diamond Dust and Weston Magnum.....put a Jett 50 or 60 on either and it's off to the races (140 to 170 MPH depending on the configuration ). Even a Diamond Dust with a regular 40-sized engine (OS or Magnum) will do 100 to 120 MPH....

http://www.diamonddustrc.com/

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I think a Battle Axe form Treneff RC would be a good 2nd plane. They go together quick and they will go pretty fast. They are also very tough and forgiving.

Dieselman1220

My Feedback: (25)

Maybe a phoenix models f-20 with a 55ax or a 46 engine. 80-high 90s and really slows down to a crawl. I love mine
Also a GP revolver even faster.

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

Your next step ...... any GOOD Q-500 design. They are all very stable by design, quick as you might expect with any decent 40/46 engine. Stock muffler and a TT40pro + 9x6 is over 100 mph easy (closer to 110-120 mph). Landing speed - well... has as much to do with the pilot and energy control, but most have a very light wing loading and very low landing speed.

GP Viper ARC is decent. Look for banner ads on RCU here for Super-T and Don Segall's pylon world - some excellent laser cut kits and wings. Matney Models is also has some good foam/glass choices. Also look in the marketplace for old Doddger kits.

Bob

dhal22

good advice Bob.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

hmmm, ok, just got back from the field. yeah... "I" crashed. But I have a great excuse!!!! I've been having major engine troubles with my evolution 40NT (all bad reviews on this engine). I was taking off, flying a few seconds then landing to adjust the engine. I did this about 7 times not thinking about fuel. At my field we have "the pit". It's a HUGE man made bowl a few hundred feet deep, almost vertical walls and a few hundred feet length and with. I was coming in to land and refuel after I finally got my engine tuned (maybe tuned), I was right over the pit a bit far out so I dicided to throttle up to get over the runway (duh). I didn't hear the engine when I throttled up so I shouted dead stick! Well the plane was to low to glide in, so it went down in the pit, there is a 10 foot burm in front of the pit so you can't see it, my LT-40 was over a massive pit, out of site, engine dead, with a pilot on his 5th solo flight (who never had a deadstick before), and a year of hard work and money has about to hit the vertical rocky wall of "The Pit". The damage is repairable, the wing joint is a little srewed up, the fuselage buckled, the wing mounts popped out (taking some fuse with it), the engine needs a rebuild (ARG!!), and some minor things like the servo tray and prop. The worst thing is the engine, I need to replace the bearings because they are all loose and grindy now and it has been acting up in past flights. It's completely disassembled now and the rear bearings as well as the crankshaft are all RED!!! The are red and gritty like rust! I use green fuel so is this red c*** normal? I hear terrible things about evolution engines. I took some pix of the crankshaft. What concerns me is that the red stuff almost feels sandy, I know that sandy grit on the back of your crankshaft is not good no matter what. So all projects are pushed back until I rebuild my trainer/wing and engine. I can't blame the engine for the crash because I ran out of fuel. Also the engine starts withind maybe a tenth of a second of aplying the starter. Super easy to start and it runs great on the table but as soon as I start down the runway it goes super retarded on me and never revs past about half the normal rpm's. Also, in the air, half throttle is higher than full throttle. The problem is the same even when the mixture is lean perfect or rich. Is the red "rust" responsible for this? Should i just screw it and get a TT or OS? Hmmm. It really sux not haveing a plane in the air, I'm going to miss the field funfly this weekend. I need info plz.

sportrider_fz6

sounds like you've got a good excuse to go get a new plane if the engine is worn, price out rebuilding vs replacing that normally makes my decision ( why spend $70 to rebuild a mediocre engine when for a few dollars more you can get a new one)

qwertypemdas

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lol, good idea obout the new plane and new engine. I wish. I need to mow a lot more lawns.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I think you would be smart to get a 2 - 3 pound RC combat plane and a OS LA series engine. They are for sale all the time in new or slightly used condition for 1/2 what you paid for the Evo. For where you fly, your budget, experience, etc., I think you will have better luck going this route. These planes are built to take a beating, very,very easy to launch are light enough to land at your feet and will go 90+ mph with a hot .25. The kit mfg might be able to walk you through installing a .46 for sport flying, I would talk to Alex about that.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

I'm not sure if I mentioned that my field is 10 miles from town in the big farm fields, and it's the biggest field I've ever seen. Lot's of big planes there, my instructor has a 150cc 2cyclinder extra 300s. So I'm not sure what u meant by "For where you fly"? lol idk. my repairs are going well but i have to ORDER some bearings so nothing in the next week or too.

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

Sorry to hear that you lost the plane. But as you noted, sometimes it is motivation to move on.

The Evo engines are actaully very good running products. All of them.

Point is, yes, you might have had an engine that was sub-par. But that is unlikely. Changing engine brands will typically not correct errors in how engines are setup and operated. Learning about the engines, and what goes wrong/right is something just as important to learn as flying itself. Find a good, trusted, and well respected club member to help as a mentor. It goes a LONG way as time goes on.

Something I preach, and worth repeating here, 90% of all engine related issues can be traced to the fuel system. It is usually the fuel tank, fuel line, vent line, contaminated fuel, or a poor tank installation that causes the engine to run poorly. I think others here can tend to back me up on this experience.

As you move onward, and if you go with the Q-500 or one of the deltas, the Evo 40 you have will work just fine. The TT40pro and TT46pro are two of my favorite sport performance engines. On the q500 airframe, just throttle back, or limit the throttle to about 60% open to start with. Will be pleanty of power.

Lomcevak Duck

My Feedback: (14)

Don't feel bad, the worst running engine I've ever owned was an evolution.

Bought new, properly broken in. I have been running model engines for twelve years and I never could get that hunk to run reliably through a full tank. I tried it on the plane, I put it on a test stand. I tried 10% and 15%. I tried props of all sizes and several tanks. I changed fuel lines more times than I can count. I even took the engine apart looking for the cause. I doubt that I had a single run that the engine throttled correctly. Most of the time the engine started easily, but refused to develop proper full throttle power no matter what I did to the needle valve. If it did, it would either turn burbling rich or die out lean within the next five minutes. This was replicated on the plane as well as on the test stand. The needle valve was not loose, nor was it ever damaged in a crash.

I was thrilled to get rid of it and wouldn't run another one if it was given to me. Seriously.
I have talked to several guys who love them. I have also talked with a few who had experiences similar to mine.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

That sounds EXACTLY like my engine. Must be a bad egg. The reviews are either hit or miss and my engine was a miss. It won't go up to full throttle in flight and the most experienced guys at my club can't fix it. I fixed my plane and cleaned the engine and it still is terrible. It starts easy every time but it is not very good at running.

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

The statement "It won't go up to full throttle in flight" catches my eye.

Will run to speed on the ground? If so, I think you have a fuel foaming issue.
Sometimes this will show the problem: Point the plane in a safe direction. With a helper, hold the plane off the ground suspended only by the wingtips, now CAREFULLY run the engine at full power and observe the fuel line to the carb, are there any bubbles? If so, you have foaming problems and you need to isolate the tank with REAL foam rubber or at least under the tank.
Make sure the prop is balanced too.

As bob27s said:
"90% of all engine related issues can be traced to the fuel system. It is usually the fuel tank, fuel line, vent line, contaminated fuel, or a poor tank installation that causes the engine to run poorly. I think others here can tend to back me up on this experience."

And I do back him up.

qwertypemdas

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thx for the advice. I discovered today that if I lean it out almost a full turn it runs like it did before the problem. lol. it's way lean but I get the same performance I did before the problem, so I'll just run it till it melts (if it does). So i guess it was "just" too rich? idk

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

You know, I just got to thinking, if you cant adjust the engine even on the ground and you tried new fuel, glow plugs,bearings,not foaming, tightened the case and head screws (obviously, you just reassemble it).

One thing I know can cause an engine to hunt or to cause you fruitlessly chase a high speed needle setting is a leak between the crankshaft and the crankcase. The fuel momentarily fills the void and seals, than gets drawn away and the cycle repeats. This leak or excessive clearance can be caused by debris from bad bearings, dirt ingested or it was made that way, this is very rare but I have personally see it in a well known performance engine with a total clearance of .0075" out of the box!

If this is the case. the engine is junk.

qwertypemdas

My Feedback: (1)

lolz. I didn't replace the bearings. I took them out and my dad said they were "ok". They are grindy and sloppy but he never saw them new. I had one good flight today on the engine. It was at dusk and it ran great so i might have fixed it "somehow". Maybe something disloged and it's good now. I'll fly on monday so I'll see then.

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

So will dad buy you a new engine when the bearings totaly let go in the near future?

qwertypemdas

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actually he suprised me today buy saying he'll cover the engine on my next plane and this one. lol

freakingfast

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Cool

qwertypemdas

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My instructor has reproduced one of his old kit designs that he cuts. It's a combat/speed plane called "spoutin off" because the fuse is made of rain gutter downtube. He's selling the complete kit with foam wing cores and all for $12. My dads buying the engine and I'm using spare servo's and equipment so it will take maybe a day to build. Not really a project but just wanted to fill you in. I'm still going to get a Dust or q500 or whatever.