Magnum - Installing the Engine
07-25-2003, 01:24 AM
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Magnum - Installing the Engine
Take the carb off! Now the engine, while mounted to the mount, will slip right into the fuse. Put the carb back on and you're done.
Why didn't the manuel tell us that? You guys may have already known that. It took me three planes to find it out.
Why didn't the manuel tell us that? You guys may have already known that. It took me three planes to find it out.
07-25-2003, 03:35 PM
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Magnum - Installing the Engine
Mount the engine and then put on the carb...?
And how do you reach in there to tighten the screw? I couldn't reach it, no matter what... Mine came loose when I started the engine up the first time, and I had to cut a small notch out of the fuse side to be able to tighten it without removing the engine...
I now have a sturdy one piece engine mount in there and I used self tapping Parker screws to hold the engine down... I should have done it this way the first time around... much simpler... and the engine doesn't vibrate loose anymore...
The only drawback is that the wiring in my servos vibrates loose now...
And how do you reach in there to tighten the screw? I couldn't reach it, no matter what... Mine came loose when I started the engine up the first time, and I had to cut a small notch out of the fuse side to be able to tighten it without removing the engine...
I now have a sturdy one piece engine mount in there and I used self tapping Parker screws to hold the engine down... I should have done it this way the first time around... much simpler... and the engine doesn't vibrate loose anymore...
The only drawback is that the wiring in my servos vibrates loose now...
07-25-2003, 04:22 PM
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Magnum - Installing the Engine
Originally posted by Rudeboy
I used self tapping Parker screws to hold the engine down...
I used self tapping Parker screws to hold the engine down...
07-26-2003, 01:41 AM
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Magnum Engine Installation
RudeB........
After mounting the engine to it's mount and removing the carb, tilt the engine in nose first.
Tighten the four screws to the firewall using a long thin phillips screwdriver. There's enough space between the purple drive washer and the cowl to stick a long shank driver in. 'Course, you can always remove the purple drive washer and gain much more room, making it very easy.
Be sure you break off the engine mounting bolts beneath the lock nuts before slipping in the engine, so the screwdriver shank can go in without hitting them.
The carb can be tightned using what we call "ignition wrenches". Very small combination wrenches (spanner) that come in .5mm sizes. I think the carb nut is 5mm.
Let me ask you a question..........
I'm going for a CG of 135mm measured from the center of the wing's most forward part, its center, where the dowel is. That required placing the battery back in the fuse beneath the elevator servo. Does that sound right to you, to place it so far back to get 135mm CG?
ArthurR
After mounting the engine to it's mount and removing the carb, tilt the engine in nose first.
Tighten the four screws to the firewall using a long thin phillips screwdriver. There's enough space between the purple drive washer and the cowl to stick a long shank driver in. 'Course, you can always remove the purple drive washer and gain much more room, making it very easy.
Be sure you break off the engine mounting bolts beneath the lock nuts before slipping in the engine, so the screwdriver shank can go in without hitting them.
The carb can be tightned using what we call "ignition wrenches". Very small combination wrenches (spanner) that come in .5mm sizes. I think the carb nut is 5mm.
Let me ask you a question..........
I'm going for a CG of 135mm measured from the center of the wing's most forward part, its center, where the dowel is. That required placing the battery back in the fuse beneath the elevator servo. Does that sound right to you, to place it so far back to get 135mm CG?
ArthurR
07-26-2003, 02:13 AM
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Magnum - Installing the Engine
I think so... depends on the weight of the battery, doesn't it?
I have mine placed against the rear bulkhead, above the wing mounting bolts and the aileron linkage so to speak, if you look at the plane when it is in an upright position.
I could place it there because I have a heavy battery in there: it is a 1700 mAh 5 cell pack. It balanced right at 135 mm...
The new engine mount I put in made the engine move forward about 2mm, and I relocated the receiver to where it is less prone to vibration damage (about 20 mm more forward than before).
These changes, although minor, made the plane nose heavy. I didn't rebalance it because I didn't have the time.
It now really glides like a brick, even on a empty tank, and elevator control has suffered badly. Without the engine running that is... as long as the engine is running, you don't really notice if it's nose heavy.
I had to land on a full tank last week, because my elevator servo failed and I can tell you the plane is not a pleasure to fly when nose heavy.
My point is this: I consider 135 mm to be the most forward limit now. When my new spinner and props come in next week I will rebalance the plane at 140 mm. I'm pretty confident it will fly smoother with the CG at 140 mm.
I ask myself how the people at Weston UK come up with a CG set at 120-130 mm...
I really wouldn't want to have a dead stick Magnum with a full tank, a CG at 120 mm and the elevator set at stock throws in my hands...
I have mine placed against the rear bulkhead, above the wing mounting bolts and the aileron linkage so to speak, if you look at the plane when it is in an upright position.
I could place it there because I have a heavy battery in there: it is a 1700 mAh 5 cell pack. It balanced right at 135 mm...
The new engine mount I put in made the engine move forward about 2mm, and I relocated the receiver to where it is less prone to vibration damage (about 20 mm more forward than before).
These changes, although minor, made the plane nose heavy. I didn't rebalance it because I didn't have the time.
It now really glides like a brick, even on a empty tank, and elevator control has suffered badly. Without the engine running that is... as long as the engine is running, you don't really notice if it's nose heavy.
I had to land on a full tank last week, because my elevator servo failed and I can tell you the plane is not a pleasure to fly when nose heavy.
My point is this: I consider 135 mm to be the most forward limit now. When my new spinner and props come in next week I will rebalance the plane at 140 mm. I'm pretty confident it will fly smoother with the CG at 140 mm.
I ask myself how the people at Weston UK come up with a CG set at 120-130 mm...
I really wouldn't want to have a dead stick Magnum with a full tank, a CG at 120 mm and the elevator set at stock throws in my hands...
07-26-2003, 12:15 PM
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Modellbau Sanity
Rude..........
Several things make me wonder about Modellbau.
Take the engine installation we've just been talking about. There's no way their instructions can be followed and get the engine installed.
Or the CT issue. They're off by so much! Not even close!
I've had three Magnums and the Instruction Manuel for the first one, #212, is exactly the same as the last unit, #626. No revisions. Most of us could think of several.
Now it appears their entire production will stop while they change manufacturers. That could last for several months before the pipeline begins to be filled again. No inventory 'till then. Get 'em while they're hot?! Fly very carefully meanwhile.
It's almost as if they designed an outstanding plane/engine combo, went to a small Chineese company and produced a few to test the market. The reaction overwhelmed them, but they weren't happy with the manufacturer. Now they're faced with the equilivent of changing a flat on a semi truck while it speeds down the interstate at 80MPH.
Still, they have done a great service by introducing us to inexpensive and outragous speed in a beautiful package. All at a price well below anything most of us would have believed.
Arthur
Several things make me wonder about Modellbau.
Take the engine installation we've just been talking about. There's no way their instructions can be followed and get the engine installed.
Or the CT issue. They're off by so much! Not even close!
I've had three Magnums and the Instruction Manuel for the first one, #212, is exactly the same as the last unit, #626. No revisions. Most of us could think of several.
Now it appears their entire production will stop while they change manufacturers. That could last for several months before the pipeline begins to be filled again. No inventory 'till then. Get 'em while they're hot?! Fly very carefully meanwhile.
It's almost as if they designed an outstanding plane/engine combo, went to a small Chineese company and produced a few to test the market. The reaction overwhelmed them, but they weren't happy with the manufacturer. Now they're faced with the equilivent of changing a flat on a semi truck while it speeds down the interstate at 80MPH.
Still, they have done a great service by introducing us to inexpensive and outragous speed in a beautiful package. All at a price well below anything most of us would have believed.
Arthur
07-27-2003, 03:10 PM
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Magnum - Installing the Engine
Guys maybe scan in your manuals as .jpgs and post them here so we can compare. Would be interested to see if the yanks get treated better than us seeing as the UK spec manual is pretty sparse. Will bring one of mine in and scan it tomorrow for posting....
07-27-2003, 04:11 PM
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Comparing Manuels
Gricey,
I'll be happy, as a proper Yank cousin, to compare any manuals anyone posts against against mine. Sorry, I can't post my manual since I don't have a scanner or d-camera.
Arthur
PS: Yes, we Yanks get treated better than you. We deserve it.
I'll be happy, as a proper Yank cousin, to compare any manuals anyone posts against against mine. Sorry, I can't post my manual since I don't have a scanner or d-camera.
Arthur
PS: Yes, we Yanks get treated better than you. We deserve it.
