robbyvaughn9

gr8 job... 2brave... struts really looks good
robby

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

I like then too!

What's better for grass strip; wire or oleos?

_Tommy D

My Feedback: (20)

Struts look great! Don't bottom out?

jet22b

2Brave;

What size struts did you use and can you please show a picture of the wing wheel well. I would like to see any mod you had to do to make them fit. The more I see your pictures, the more I love it!!!
Thank you!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

2Brave

My Feedback: (28)

Guess I should have known better than to post the Picts earlier. If you are flying off a grass field, I suggest that you stay with the wire gear as it allows the wheels to spring back and forth due to the uneven terrain. The robart struts are better suited for mostly smooth surfaces unlike grass. However with this plane it's so light it may not matter. Also, I'll post the Picts tomorrow.
As far as the struts, I used 2 robart straight robostruts 3/8 #650's for the mains an one #651R right offset for 2"-2 1/4" wheel for the nosewheel. In order to get the length, I retracted the gear without the wire installed an laid the already made up struts with wheels into the wheel wells to get the length, an then cut the tubes with a small plumbers tube cutter. This made the cut fast an clean
The other pictures you see with the groved rod is what I had to do to make the Spring Air 302's work out with the struts. Long story short, To make 2 offset adapters for the mains only, I basically grooved two pieces of 3/8" rod along the outside with a thin grinding wheel so I could JB Weld a piece of the 3/16", approx. 3/4" longer, wire into each piece of grooved 3/8" rod. I then positioned those offset adapters into the shortened struts so I could drill and tap some 5/56 allenhead screws through the struts an into the offset adapters. Once the offset adapters were secured into the struts, the only thing left was to grove the 3/16" wire that was sticking out, with a dermal an slide them into the pivot blocks of the retract mains an tighten the Allen set screws.
The nose wheel was much simpler. Just cut the wire about 3/4" below the steering arm, cut strut to length, insert supplied bushings into strut tube, drill, tap an slide onto the existing 3/4's of the wire. As always, use blue locktite on everything.
I believe that a deeper retract from Spring Air could have been used, 1 1/8" deep. This would have allowed me to install the struts with ease as I wouldn't have had to engineer an fabricate the offset blocks that were necessary in order for the retracts to pull the gear all the way up without binding against the retract cylinder.
In order for the nose wheel to function flawlessly an not allow the pull pull cable to bind, I used #2 snap rings and ball bearing swivels w/interlock snaps. You can get these from academy. This also allows me to easily unclip the nose gear for any reason without having to snip and rewire the pull pull steering cables when I finally have them adjusted perfectly. .
At this time, I'm looking for a set of affordable aluminum hubbed wheels to install. All I can find are the pricey jet w/brake type set-ups. Any ideals??

cjshaker

I've got some of these MPI aluminum and foam wheels for some of my projects

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-29.html

Chris Shaker

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

I take a Thermos of water straight from the kettle out back to the test stand for this, since I have no power out there. A trickle of hot water over the cylinder head and a few seconds for heat soak generally loosens things up for those first runs. Not practical for every mounting arrangement I know, but for test stand or with an exposed cylinder in the airframe works for me.

2Brave

My Feedback: (28)

Sorry for the amount of picts and the way it came out, but I hope this somehow makes sense. As far as weight is concerned, the Jackal comes in at 7.71 lbs. That's with a super large 5 cell JR 6 volt and a pretty heavy pilot.
The Patriot weighed 6.09 but that's with out the engine/muffler.

jet22b

2Brave;
That weight is well with in the manual weight range. For me I will have to stick with the wire setup I have now. My club field is grass, but, thank for the info. I still love the setup!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

viper1676

My Feedback: (14)

Aluminum Wheels:

http://www.jrhobbyhardware.com/shop/...ex&cPath=159_4

Dblex

My Feedback: (81)

Final weight 7.5 lbs, First flight tomorrow morning! Should I use the iron or heat gun to get all the wrinkles out? The weather going back and fourth really rippled her up! Going to go dial in the throws and check the CG. Charge and up in the morning she goes!

How come no one has posted videos? I might have to charge the camera up tonight...

jet22b

Good luck with your maiden flight today and yes we want a flight report!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

Dblex

My Feedback: (81)

Ummmm, well, no maiden! The Evo60NX seized up on taxi...I dont know what the heck is going on with this motor. This is #2. I am calling Horizon tomorrow. Holiday week and Im off without a motor. I even charged the HD camera as was going to make a video for you guys. Followed break in and when I opened her up wide open, POP and the prop just spun around in the wind. Thats ok. Im at peace with it now.

I will update accordingly. And trust me, Horizon is getting a piece of my mind tomorrow......

jet22b

Dblex;

I have the same engine you have and now I am scare!! I have yet to start this engine and the manual do not have anything about break-in. Turning this engine over by hand is hard. Just before top dead center, it is real tight. I have read on the web that some people are heating up the head of the engine before starting it. They also say NOT to run it wet, but, to run it just before the lean setting. One question please, did you run the stock pipie or the blue JETT pipe that was made for this engine???
Thanks for the answer and please let us know what Horizon has to say!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Dblex

My Feedback: (81)

I am running the blue jett pipe from Horizon

jet22b

That's the same pipe I will be running!!
Thanks.

Sonny
aka
jet22b

jdan

My Feedback: (1)

I just maidened my Jackal.Running a 55AX with tunned muffler.It flew great but the fixed main gear mounts are trash.They both cracked after a soft landing.My cg is set at 61/2".It needs more weight in the tail.Had to fly with quite a bit of up elevator.

_Tommy D

My Feedback: (20)

FWIW I broke in a 60NX for another model this summer. Like most of you have reported the pinch was very tight on the top end. A little heat gun action and she fired right off.

Ill admit to breaking in the engine on a stand very conservatively. By that I mean to say I ran it on my own home brew with a healthy dose of castor oil. First 6 runs were for only 1 minute each <with plenty of time to cool down in between> just under peak, as set by a tach <200-400 under>. With a IR Temp gun I observed the head to run up to about 300F.

After those first 6 runs I extended the next 6 to 3 minute runs. Again same procedure as above watching the head temp to make sure it never exceeded 325, but always above 300. It's worth noting by setting the RPM as described above the motor was right in the ballpark temp wise.

Last 6 runs were for 6 minutes, same as above.

I regret to say after breaking in, and installing the engine <and tower style muffler> in the model I have yet to actually fly it. All runs were on the stand and it performed very well.

My final numbers on a 11x6 APC Sport Prop, and stock <restretive> muffler were 12,900 RPM.

Hope this reassures some new Evo Owners.

Tommy D

jet22b

Tommy D;
If you don't mind, I think I will do as you did!! All the new engine I own over the many years, the manual always told you how to break it in. I use a temp gun on all my 90 size helicopters and I know just how hot the head get. Everything I had read on the web this weekend about this motor, was to start and fly, but, when I turn the engine over by hand and it was tight at the top, I just did not like it. I will do like you just post and take my time with this engine.
Thanks again for your post!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

2Brave

My Feedback: (28)

Finally got a video. Sorry but my wonderful support group can't work a zoom.....[>:] Finally got the gear working but eventhough I used a dremel to grind slots in the axel and I used lock tite, the dern wheel managed to leave.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6-xmE0gkkA

eranb

Hi.

I'm running the 60NX+ Jett muffler on my Jackal and it's great!
I maidend mine today - both the plane and the motor preform well!
For breaking in -no heat gun or something similar! ,filled the tank with 20/20 fuel from Morgan,
at the beging I felt that it was hard to flip the prop(I'm not using an electric starter at all...), I primed it well, conect the glow plug
made several attempts with chicken stick and boom it fired up!
I made only one tank for the breaking in...
let it run till it feel hot! ,then open the needle (high needle) till it will cooldown,
Do some heat and cool cycles and thats it!-rememeber to do it wide open throtle,after this session the tightness has gone.
My second tank was in the air...I set it slightly rich, the motor started immedetly-small plip of the prop,I took off and had
fun!
Do some 5-10 flights on the rich side ,and then....kick his ass!
I'm quiet happy about the way the 60NX working and sure that i will some fun with it!


Eran

Dblex

My Feedback: (81)

So how many turns out is it? Manual says 2 to start with, but the forums says on tuned pipe to run even more rich, about 3 to 4 turns and start from there........

jet22b

I wish RCU had a forum just for engines so we can talk or post to someone who have knowedge of all type of rc engine. We don't want to take up this thread just on the 60NX motor. The old school in me want to put her on the test stand and break her in like all the other engine I have had over the many years in this hobby, but, the talk on the web say that you hurt the engine by running it rich. I just wish the manual gave us a clue on how to break-in this motor.

Sonny
aka
jet22b

eranb

ABC motors must run hot (within the normal values)!
Runing it like "4 cycle method" will reduce the motor life and the prefomance will be poor either!
turn the high needle 2 turns,start the motor,let it warm enough and put it WOT,slowly turn the needle 1/2 more.
put your finger on the motor head,it should be hot-if its too hot to touch,open the high needle another 1/2 turn.
the most importing thing is to do heat cycles-let it get hot and then cool it by rich mixture(high needle counter clockwise)
i'm using this method for some years,all my 2 cycles motor runing just great!

Eran

jet22b

Eran
Thank you for the info. I had ABC engines before and the manual told how to break them in. Like I post before, I have a temp gun that I use on all my 90 sizes helicopter and I will try your way. Now I can see if you run a tank of fuel at high throttle on a very rich setting, you do not let the engine get hot and this is bad. So when I get some good weather, right now it is snowing, I will gave you way a shot.
Thank you again for your info and I will post the out come of my 60NX break-in!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b