Patriot and Mechanical retracts
 

Hello, Does anybody out there flying the original 40 size Patriot and using Hobbico mechanical retracts have pics of their linkage? I'm going nuts trying to tweak the linkage recommended by Great Planes. No matter what I do I get binding.

Thanks,

Jim

RE: Patriot and Mechanical retracts
 

When I was I ended up putting a separate servo for the front one.I,am now using spring air retracts

RE: Patriot and Mechanical retracts
 

Must have a seperate servo for front and mains. Binding could be from to long a throw, linkages, any number of things. Tough to figure out with out more info.

RE: Patriot and Mechanical retracts
 

Jim,
I know this posting is a bit late but wanted to offer any help I could. I've built 4 of the original Patriots, all with mechanical retracts. Once you get it down, it's not too hard to figure them out.
Let me know if you're still having issues with them. If it's a done deal, maybe it's time to install my infamous JATO unit on it. The afterburner that acts as a cardiac stress test for the old geezers at the field.
Darin

RE: Patriot and Mechanical retracts
 

Exactly what Spring Airs do you people use for the Pat. It says the "305" for the Pat on the Spring Air site, but I've also seen the 600 series mentioned...

RE: Patriot and Mechanical retracts
 

I use 100% mechanical. I've used Hobbico 40 size, Spectra, and another brand I can't remember the name of. Didn't really matter, they are all basically same exact design. I use low profile retract servos. One for mains and one for nose. Have used standard servo for nose but after time, it tends to not work 100%. Once I went with retract servo on it, have never had a problem. Learning how to shape the wire was the challenge. Going from the plans, they have worked most of the time. Initially need a little tweaking but once it's set, you get to forget it.

RE: Patriot and Mechanical retracts
 

you don't have to do any of that crazy bending, all 3 of my linkages are straight from the servo to the threaded end, at the threads they have a slight 15-30 degree bend (depending on where your pushrod is located in relation to centerline) to the clevis. the other end is a Z bend at the servo. Patriot 40, Hobbico retracts and a JR Sport low profile servo in the wing on the mains and a standard JR 507 on the main with a long horn. they all work very smoothly and absolutely no binding at all what so ever. the two Z bends on the main servo were a bit tricky to install, they had to be attached to the horn and then both fed through the wing from one side of the wheel well and then hooked up at the retracts.

i opted to use dual servos on the ailerons and this keeps me from having the aileron torque rods above the main retract servo but i don't see that being a problem as they do not extend above the top wing sheeting but maybe 1/16th inch.

kc

EDIT: on the standard servo for the nose, it works great as long as you don't have any binding on the servo at all and with mine i have absolutely none, the servo moves fast and free and there is no 'stalled' buzzing. if you have binding anywhere during travel this is what wears the servos out and makes them stop working, also use a long horn rather then using ATVs to overdrive the servo. the only disadvantage to the standard servo is it's MUCH faster then the retract servo so the nose 'Pops' up and down quiet quickly.

RE: Patriot and Mechanical retracts
 

Very nice work. The reason I did all of the bending was due to the servo rotating more than 180 degrees on radios that did not have servo trim adjustment. When I converted over to computer transitters, I left everything as it was in the planes.