summerwind

3004's will work fine.......the 9001's just have a better centering accuracy.

20 years ago the 148's which have less torque were used in similar models.

lablover

Outstanding...That just saved me 80 bucks...MORE FUEL

orangepeal

My Feedback: (2)

I'm running a Magnum 91 RFS 4 stroke (blue head version). I've got about 5 flights on this motor plus tons of bench time trying to figure out how to tune 4 strokes since this is my first one. I couldn't ever get a good idle with a light wood top flite 14x6 propit would quit every time the RPM got down around 3500, sometimes even around 4000 RPM. So, I started tweaking the low speed needle. Even after I thought I had that set right, it still wouldn't idle worth a flip. So, I got a tru turn spinner with a bigger cut out so I could use a Graupner 14x7 prop that is quite heavy. Now I can idle consistently at about 2400 RPM and the transition to WOT is still very goodI even get more RPM now on the top end than I did on the wood prop. So, what is the general target idle RPM for a 91 4 stroke? Is 2400 still a tad high or in the ball park? I just got this tweaked at home and really couldn't see if it is slow enough to keep from pulling the plane at idle. I'm hoping it is but won't find out for sure until I can get to the club field.

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Resurrecting this thread, cause I've got one coming which should be here tomorrow. Lots of good info here already, but looking to check in with the guys still flying one and guys in the process of building one and hadn't found this thread.

I have a Saito 100 on hand that I'll use in mine which should be plenty enough power if the ones currently in stock still weigh the same as what had been reported thru out the years of this thread. For the guys that have had theirs for awhile, I would especially like to hear of anything you would of done different if you were to have it to do over. I already know about the firewall issue, but it's been my experience that most ARFs produced these days are built similar in that area, so it shouldn't be too big a problem if addressed properly by the builder (assembler) if needed.

Should be a fun and fairly easy build, I look forward to hearing from you guys and for when the BBT arrives with it at my doorstep tomorrow... =)~


Bandit

g_mkoch

I weighted mine the other day at 7.5 lbs with an OS110.

Vinnie6

I can get 2200-2400 from my Saito .91's with APC 14x6.

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Nice!!! Is that an OS110 with or w/o pump? How did she turn out C/G wise with the OS110? The Saito 100 is about a 1/2 ounce lighter than the non pumped OS110, so that's VERY encouraging. I've flown a heavier plane on a Saito 100 that hauled it around with authority at 1/2 throttle, so weight will definitely not be an issue, just need to prop her accordingly and educated left stick inputs is all that will be needed, I'm sure.



Bandit

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Mine arrived today and all looks to be in great shape. She looks way more prettier in person than the pics on Great Planes' website. I'm impressed and happy with my decision to add it to my collection. Fuse will need quite a bit of iron work to remove a few wrinkles, but all in all it's not too bad compared to other's I've seen. I'll get cracking on it tomorrow after work and post pics of my progress...


Bandit

Vinnie6

Enjoy the build! Mine is balanced on the rear top wing bolt.

Blueyonder

My Feedback: (3)

Always nice to hear how the ARF's look better in person!! Thanks for the pics and anxious to see more.

da Rock

It's interesting that the most recent photos of the latest ARF shipped shows the mfg has changed the colors a bit. I wonder if they ran out of the brilliant blue. It looks like navy blue or black is now where it used to be a rich medium blue. While the box it came in shows the old blue.

da Rock

Hope they also changed the two layer liteply firewalls that have little or no support behind their upper area.

Make sure to inspect the firewall and for the quality of the wood. Two plys of liteply is marginal especially with upper support just from foam and balsa.

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Actually it does look like there's more than 2 layers of lite ply on the firewall. Looks like they may have butted up one more former to the backside of the two layers of solid lite ply firewall. Also the tank floor structure butts up against the aforementioned former *near* the top as well. I'm going to flow in some 30 minute epoxy around the perimeter and to the 2 joints where the tank floor meets the firewall. In addition, I'm going to peel back about a 1/4" of covering at the sheeted foam/firewall joint and coat that area with some 30 minute epoxy from the topside as well.

As far as the colors, it does seem to differ slightly from what's on the box shows, but the blue is not as dark as it may appear in my pic. The colors really "pop" out at you IMO. I'll try and get a closeup pic of the blue and progress pics as I continue on with the build. . Stay tuned!

Bandit

da Rock

Here's what it looks like after the two layers of lite ply give up.

If you look from the top down, you see the foam/balsa sheeting that "supports" the upper quarter.
You can't see the balsa for the covering that folds over it. Not very thick.

Then there are two tabs that project inward a bit. Notice the laser cutting marks. They don't actually reach the back of the firewall. Why? Beats the heck outa me.

Notice the gap between the two tabs. Again ????

The fuel tank stops some inches back from the firewall. You can see the bulkhead back there with the hole in it. That's where the tank stopper stops.

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

I had seen that pic before, but thanks for posting it again so that other's can see it also. Actually looking at mine, that former I was telling you that backs the lite ply firewall appears to have filled in any gap yours probably had, cause it definitely seems to be a tight fit to it to me. I've already peeled back the 1/4 inch of covering back from the firewall joint at the top and do see how thin the balsa sheeting is on the foam top also. It'll take somewhat of a contortionist getting epoxy into all the places I want to on the backside of the firewall, but I've been known to work well in tight places. [sm=tongue_smile.gif]


Bandit

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

No pictures for this update, cause I can't get my camera into the area that I worked on. I got in behind the firewall and flowed in some 30 minute epoxy with popsicle sticks to all the key joint areas. and most if not all of the perimeter of the firewall. The're using tri-stock along the sides and bottom, so I soaked those with 30 minute epoxy as well. As I had planned, I peeled back about a 1/4" of the covering at the top of the fuse to get some 30 minute epoxy into the balsa sheeted foam area, then gave the whole face of the firewall a light coating of thinned epoxy for fuel proofing.

I'm pretty pleased with how I got into all the critical glue joints of the firewall, but not very pleased with Monocote at all. The Skybolt has reminded me why I prefer Ultracote over Monocote. Monocote takes way more heat to get wrinkles out, and even then they're not totally gone. With the Skybolt having multi layers of it in it's color scheme, you really need to be careful at all the seams. which it has lots of them. It's workable, just more tedious than it needs to be.

I'll let the epoxy set over night and if weather won't permit flying tomorrow, I'll dig in to getting hinges done on all the wing halves and look into joining the bottom wing also. BTW, I'm tossing the CA hinges the kit came with in favor of Robart hinge points for all surfaces...

Stay tuned!!

Bandit

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Got a lot accomplished on the Super Skybolt in the past couple days. After coming home from the flying field yesterday, I started in on the aileron hinges. Since I'm tossing the CA hinges that came with the kit in favor of Robarts, it took a little longer to do, but will be well worth it IMHO. After dry fitting all the aileron hinges on both the bottom and top wing halves, I tackled installing servos in each hatch and attached the hatches to the bottom wings.

Next I dry fit the bottom wing halves together and was pleased to find it didn't need ANY adjustments for a ZERO gap fit, So I mixed up some 30 minute epoxy and joined the bottom wing together. While that has been setting up, I've test fit the upper wing together and found that it too needs NO adjustments for a ZERO gap fit. I'll tackle joining the top wing together after supper and may glue in the hinge points before bedtime.


Stay tuned!!


Bandit

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Moving right along... After marking the bottom wing where the bolt plate goes, I peeled back the covering in that area and prepared the plate for epoxy. Since the bottom wing has a bit of dihedral to it, I marked the center of it (bolt plate) and scored it with my razor saw to enable me to give it a slight bend to match. Since I had already dry fit the top wing and found it needed no adjustments, I mixed up enough epoxy to not only glue down the wing bolt plate, but also the aluminum cabane attachment plate and top wing joiner to one of the top wing halves.

Later on after letting the epoxy set for about 45 minutes or so, I joined the other half of the top wing and called it quits for today...


Bandit

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Okay, so I lied. I did one more thing before calling it quits for the night. I drilled through the bolt plate and test fit the bottom wing to the fuse. She lines up PERFECTLY!!!!! No, I haven't jumped ahead and glued in the vertical stab, she's just dry fit into the slot....


Stay tuned!!!


Bandit

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Tackled installing the vertical fin and horizontal stab this evening. It was pretty much a straight forward install since everything fit and aligned up nicely. Only thing I do different, is lay in a flillet around the horizontal and vertical fin. It's not needed for structural strength, but do it more so for aesthetic reasons. I use a mixture of epoxy and micro-balloons to form them and I also remove the tape while the epoxy sets up so that the harsh edges the tape leave in the epoxy flow in and literally, vanish. I'll fill in the areas that are not white with some fuel proof paint and she'll look schweet!!!


Stay tuned,


Bandit

lablover

I used white adhesive silicone caulk for my fillets....Works great, I also get the paintable type

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Neat idea, might have to try that on another project. What do you use to paint your fillets?

I'm progressing fairly good on my 'Bolt. Hinging is all done and epoxied in. Had one "oops" that I needed to repair, but nothing major. I've decided to mount the engine horizontal rather than inverted like I had originally planned. Inverted, the Saito's carb would be way below the centerline of the tank which would make tuning the engine and performance a problem. I have a 90 degrees exhaust elbow I'll use to tuck the muffler up into the cowl neatly. The cylinder head will protrude out the side, but it'll look okay that way.

I'll post more pictures when all the parts and pieces start coming together to resemble a plane, sooooooo...

Stay Tuned!!!


Bandit

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Life's trials and tribulations halted my work on the 'Bolt for a little bit. Spending 4 days in the hospital is no fun, but they patched me up well and took good care of me, so I shouldn't complain too much. I'm back at it and work on the 'Bolt is proceeding nicely.

I've got the elevator and rudder control linkages all done and connected to the servos. I've also installed the Saito 100 w/throttle linkage routed. I also carved out the cowl around the engine and installed it also. All in all it came out well, though an inverted engine would of come out nicer I think. It looks okay the way it is, the 90 degree exhaust elbow helped out immensely.

All I have left on the fuse is to install a fuel tank, throttle servo, the upper wing cabane and landing gear. Installing the aileron linkages and assembling the wing to the fuse will come last.

I've taken the plunge into the 2.4ghz world and received my DX7 from UPS the night I came home from the hospital, so I may just use it in the 'Bolt to get my feet wet.

Stay Tuned!

Bandit

opjose

That may just be the camera settings.

Mine, as well as all of the later ones I've seen, have that medium blue, which looks like it has metallic flakes in it.

The photos above are somewhat close to mine, though in person my ARF appears just a bit darker until you view the covering straight on.

This may be due to the metallic covering effect... from the sides it looks darker.

Bandit

My Feedback: (5)

Welp, the 'Bolt is finished and hopefully will have it's maiden flight tomorrow. I had it pretty well finished last weekend, but found that I needed to move things around to get correct CG and had problems with the spinner ruining the Zinger prop I was originally going with. I'm one that if I run into multiple problems the night before a maiden, I'll scrap it, back away and look at things in a more fresher perspective later.

After a fun day at the flying field last weekend, I had enough motivation to go ahead and make all the necessary changes it needed in one evening. With all that behind me, I had a week of evenings to tinker on another project I had been putting off. Yes, I built another plane and it too will maiden tomorrow weather permitting. Attached are pics of my two new birds.. The 'Bolt and an Aeroworks 60-90 Extra 260