rcguy1411

hey Apche let me know the next time you get a chance to get out on the water where are you running your boat

LT_HOGWEED

hey stunter please put up the link I would like to see how you can make the servos water proof that would sweet

res3567

OR.......you can get the Traxxas waterproofed and high torque servos....#2075 works great in my Aquacraft Airforce.....these airboats suck when it comes to a waterproof radio box....cause there really aint one.....just the canopy covers the compartment...and the canopy does have a sealer around it...but whenI run this boat in chopy water....the front end gets dunked at low speeds and I fried two servos in the proccess. The Traxxax ones are still going strong....but they aint cheap...about $30 a piece....that is if you dont want to do the waterproofing yourself....and that brown looking goop on top of the servos is Corrosion X..

amax

lol it just takes a couple minutes and That Corrosion X to water proof servos, or make them highly water resistant.

stunter2b

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_cN99P7cho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_lQX...eature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxM4L...eature=channel

and last one where he demo's how water proof it really is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoCSl...eature=channel


Ilearned ALLOTfrom this guy. mostly for my T-maxx but these vids also apply to my shockwave.
I will be buying all Ineed to do my truck within a few weeks since Iplan on running my truck all year long and once I do my truck I'll do my boat too.

LT_HOGWEED

thanks stunter going to do that soon

LT_HOGWEED

hey i was looking to buy a prop balancer but did not like the ones i found so i made 1 works fine and i did not spend a dime making it

amax

looks good, make sure you keep a little oil on those rods when your Not Using them to prevent them from rusting and throwing balance off.

LT_HOGWEED

good tip thanks

SaltyDog

Having a problem keeping the header bolts tight. Have tried blue loctite and also added a lock washer but both bolts are loose after each run. Any suggestions? Thanks

rgoers

Soak nuts & bolts in rubbing alcohol, then dry them thoroughly, then use RED loc-tite on them.

amax

I use silicone for loctite on all my nuts and bolts it works better than blue locktight and won't permanently lock then like Red Loctite will. Cleaning is a must before using any of the options mentioned.

rgoers

I can't figure out why so many people refer to red loctite as "permanent". It isn't! Red is stronger than blue, but certainly not permanent.

The ONLY loctite I have ever come across that was *close* to permanent was the green stuff that is used on snowmobile clutches (used to bolt the starter gear to the clutch).

LT_HOGWEED

has any 1put a gas engine or thought of putting 1 in the 36

rcguy1411

the new 20cc from zenoah might be a nice candidate for the SW 36 but i would think a 26 would be overkill in it

apache 1

Had mine out today. It gets a little better each time . I only have about half a gallon through it so far. I can still lean it up a little and I'm really keeping the nose down right now . I'm guessing around 45mph. A 7mph improvement hardly seems worth while for all the effort, but there is a lot more potential in this boat yet.
Anyone else get theirs out?

LT_HOGWEED

hey apache good pics that thing smokes you have to put a GPS in it because I think its faster than that

Biscuit

Hi this thread seems to be dying out[&o] I have just bought a new 36 Shockwave with electric starter for £125 could not turn it down at that price, not got it in the water yet, I see you have to take head shims out once its run in, seems a strange set up ?

amax

what seems strange to you?? having to remove shims as the engine breaks in??

Biscuit

Can you explain why please ?
Many thanks

LT_HOGWEED

i know i will be corrected if im wrong but i think it is with the shims in it lowers the compression so the engine starts easier during break in 

amax

The shims are to Drop the Compression Ratio Down. These engine do not have Rings like a conventional engine, the Sleeve is Tapered as it goes Up so when the Piston reaches Top Dead Center(TDC) of the Stroke the piston Wedges itself into the top of the sleeve to seal the combustion chamber. During Break In the The Piston and Sleeve Literally Beat each other into Shape creating a Perfect Fit. Before the engine is "Broke In" the Fit of the Piston and Sleeve is Very Tight so the head is Shimmed to drop the CR Down so the engine will turn over easier, and doesn't put To Much stress on the Rod and Bearings.
As the engine is breaking in you remove shims to increase compression and performance.

Biscuit

Ah thanks, so its an ABC engine, when we ran these in the cars we just ran them rich for the first few tanks and then leaned them out never changed the head shims, thats why I dont understand it, why just leave it as it is and just run it rich and then lean it messing about with head shims is just asking for trouble.

Motoman25

My Feedback: (1)

messing with the head shims adds powaaaaaaaa

amax

Having your Head clearance right Improves Torque\Acceleration, and it also Improves Lubrication of the Cylinder Walls. The Squish Band is Tapered to the outside and generally has a small flat ring on the outer diameter of it which is your tightest area. The tapered area forces the fuel to the center of the combustion chamber, the Flat ring (When clearance is set right) Limits Ignition around the outer area leaving a small amount of oil on the edges of the piston and the cylinder wall for Lubrication. If your leaving shims In and keeping the clearance High your Not Getting all the engine has to give, and your Not Properly Lubricating the Cylinder. The Key is having the Proper Bowl Size\Volume and Compression Ratio for the % of Nitro you intend to use, the load of the vehicle it's in is putting on the engine and the amount of time you intend to Stay ON the Throttle.
With Truck\Buggy\Cars you run Lower % nitro, you have a Transmission to Limit Load on the engine, and your only On the throttle for Short Spurts so they tend to set the CR Higher, So people Leave shims in to keep the CR Down and Prolong Engine Life,, Or So they Think. When they would be better off Increasing Bowl Volume to drop the CR and removing the shims to get the Clearance Right.
In a Boat people Tend to do the same thing because that's how they were thought when they ran a Truck\Buggy

and then they wonder WHY there Boat Doesn't Run LIKE THIS
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3b5SeulzpWk[/youtube]