Georges Payne

Hello all!

I am not familiar with this part of the forums, because I know next to nothing about diesel engines. But my Dad recently bought part of a man's estate and it so happens that that man used to own a hobby shop in Arvida, Quebec, Canada. His name is Doris Galarneau and many men my age were taught to fly control line models by this man, in high school.

One of the most unusual items in the lot is this engine, a ED Diesel 2.49 Mk. III Racer. I did a little research on this and found some information, but my dad and I would like to know more about it. I figured this was the place to ask. We are not interested in selling it. We may try to run it at some point. Maybe we shouldn't, because it is brand new in the original box, and maybe running it would reduce its value or something. It looks like it is brand new, all the parts are moving freely, I can't see anything wrong with it. The box has seen some wear and tear, it was probably on display in a store for many years. What do you guys think?

Jim Thomerson

It is an excellent engine. I flew the previous model ED Racer on a control line Old Time Stunt model, the Big Fry, for 100's of flights. I found it to run best on 8 x 6 propellers for my application. I think your problem is getting fuel. Mine ran fine on a couple of different commercial fuels, probably not readily available in Canada. You probably have an initial settings card in the box. If not, I have posted several times how I go about starting an unknown diesel.

Diesel Die-hard

I agree with Jim that these are excellent engines - I've been flying them for over 40 years now and still use one regularly. 

What you have is a late example of the E.D. Mk. III Racer as manufactured by the original E.D. company in West Molesely, just south-west of London. This company ceased production at that location in 1963. This is the sixth distinct variant of the Racer - there were five previous variants with magnesium alloy cases. The sixth variant first appeared in 1958 and remained in production until 1961.  The engine was quite popular, and a fair number were made. 

I see that your engine bears the serial number RB 2 B if I read it correctly.  The E.D serial numbering system is extremely descriptive - I wish others had followed suit!  The system is as follows:

- the first letter indicates the model (R for Mk. III Racer in this case).  They used different letters for their various models.

- the next letter indicates the production batch, roughly by month.  A for January and so on through to M for December with I omitted to avoid confusion with 1 and N for an extra batch that was made near the end of each year to deal with the Christmas rush. In this case, it's B for February. 

- the following number indicates the position of the engine in that month's batch.  In this case, it's 2, indicating that your engine was the second engine off the line in February. 

- the final letter indicates the year of manufacture.  Prior to 1960 they used the last digit or digits of the year (e.g., 52 for 1952, 7 for 1957, etc.), but in 1960 they switched to a letter system with A for 1960, B for 1961, etc.  Your engine bears the letter B, so it was made in 1961.

In summary, your engine was the second unit off the line in February 1961. 

I have engine number RA 123 B which is a close relative of yours, having been the 123rd unit off the line in January 1961.  I've modified it internally for extra power and rurability, although it remains completely stock externally. It's a really great engine which I enjoy flying very much indeed.  It still gets regular airtime. 

These engines are not particularly rare - they are frequently seen on eBay and elsewhere, and they are  accordingly not particularly valuable by present-day engine collecting standards.  Yours has a higher-than-usual value because it's pristine and new in the original box.  If you're careful about mounting it and operating it, you won't take too much off the value by giving it a run since all E.D. engines were run at the factory and hence there's no such thing as an un-run E.D.  But don't mount it or operate it in a way that will mark it in any way - that will reduce its value. And if you fly it, there's no question that its value will decrease. Your call .................... 

I use home-made fuel using ingredients which are readily available in Canada.  If you have trouble, I'd be happy to advise.

Hope this is of interest,

Cheers,

Adrian 

 

pe reivers

For fuel, the most important ingredient is ether.Contact your local hospital, or your in-state hospital supply store. You may have some explaining to do why you want ether by the liter.
Fuel:
equal parts of ether, paraffin (lamp oil), and castor oil will be fine.
instead of castor oil, any good two stroke synthetic blend will do fine, or even better. use at least 20% oil, and keep paraffin and ether in balance, like 20/40/40 (oil, ether, paraffin)
If you can get a cetane booster like amylnitrate (heart drug!!), 1% - 2% is all it takes to improve high rev willingness.
I ran my Webra mach 1 (equal class engine) using the straight 33/33/33 fuel with good results.
For starting prime, use only two drops of fuel. More, and the engine is flooded, and will not start at all!

Georges Payne

Thank you all for this information! I told my dad this forum was the best!

Kiteflyer

My Feedback: (17)

Diesel Die-hard, does the first letter "S" denote the MKII version?

Recycled Flyer

Try this link, there are engine reviews on the first page at the bottom about the ED Racer.

http://www.the.elmores.btinternet.co...s/_cat001.html

Cheers.

mike109

G'day

One of these turned up at my club in Sydney some time in the 1960s. Two young lads and their dad had it in a trainer and wanted us to teach them to fly. I ran it in and was teaching the older son to fly when his younger brother suddenly ran into the circle. The prop made several quite large cuts in his arm. He did not run into circles again.

As I remember it, it was quite powerful and easy to start.

74SEVEN7

Try this link, there are engine reviews on the first page at the bottom about the ED Racer.

http://www.the.elmores.btinternet.co...s/_cat001.html

And also - http://modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_story.html

Diesel Die-hard

Yes, a great handling engine, and quite powerful for its day, even in standard trim. My tuned one is a match for most of thr contemporary opposition.

Kiteflyer, the Mk. III Racer of which we've been speaking is a .15 (2.46 cc).  The letter S denotes an E.D Super Fury, which looks like the Racer but is an .09 as opposed to a .15 (1.46 cc as opposed to 2.46 cc).  The letter W appearing in front of the model identifier denotes a watercooled marine version.  

Cheers,

Adrian

Kiteflyer

My Feedback: (17)

Thank you for the info, Adrian.

downunder

I'm glad to see the crankcase doesn't look like the one my son found and gave to me last Father's Day .

Recycled Flyer

Looks like it has the optional 'go fast' barnacles on the keel there mate!

Diesel Die-hard

Yes, that's a common problem with magnesium alloy cases - the magnesium is pathertically keen to return to its mineralized state!  The only solution is to keep the case well oiled or greased at all times (inside and out) and stored in a plastic baggie. The magnesium alloy is very strong and light, albeit a touch on the brittle side. 

I confess to a fear that one day all of our mag case engines will disappear!!

Cheers,

Adrian

Georges Payne

Well, I'll make sure that the engine is well oiled and placed in a plastic bag. I have a bottle of Klotz oil that would do just the trick. As for running it, we'll see what my dad wants to do with all the nice stuff he bought, before we make a move. I asked a few questions around yesterday and apart from tearing open a spray can of ether, the kind that's intended to start diesel trucks, (after having released the pressure inside of course) I am not sure I can get some liquid ether in Quebec.

Diesel Die-hard

Find a local John Deere dealer and buy a can or two of John Deere Starting Fluid.  This is 80% ether, and the balance is mostly liquid gasses which boil off when you de-pressurize the can.  So the liquid that comes out is more or less straight ether - close enough, anyway.  I've used it for a while and my engines all run well on the resulting brew.  For ignition improver (amyl nitrate equivalent) I use Amsoil Cetane Boost diesel additive, which is straight octyl nitrate. This is available from any Amsoil dealer. I also use castor oil in all my diesels - I tried synthetics, but wear rates were unacceptably high, by my standards at least.  

Hope this helps!!

Cheers,

Adrian

Jim Thomerson

I don't know if klotz will help preserve a magnesium crankcase. A diesel guru advised me to use WD-40.

Diesel Die-hard

WD40 would probably be fine. I've aso used motorcycle chain lube - it goes on thin so you can brush it into the crannies, and then turns to grease as the solvent evaporates. It's designed to stick to metal surfaces, which is just what you want.

Cheers,

Adrian

Recycled Flyer

The 'minimum' protection needed for anything magnesium would be an oil coating because oxygen and water are its natural enemies.
(WD 40 stands for 'Water Displacement - 40th attempt and is only a temporary measure when items are constantly handled.)

The best protection for magnesium in use would be to chromate the surface and then paint it with a high temperature engine paint or stove enamel.

Cheers.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

Love the chain lube idea. Modern spray-pack chain lubes (intended for motorcycle use) are incredibly tenacious.

gossie

Have in mind this particular 'Racer' is not a mag. one, but still nice to keep it oiled up of course.

Georges Payne

Again, thank you all for all the knowledge that you so freely shared with me. I appreciate it!

controlliner

Use One third castor oil in your fuel mix. The rear disk rotor is aluminum and it spins against the aluminum back plate. If you use less to get better performance, the two mating surfaces will grind and make a mess. That is what happened to mine[:@]

Diesel Die-hard

I agree with controlliner that lots of oil is good for these engines - wear on the aluminium rear disc is a major issue, both on the E.D. and on other similar engines like the D-C Rapier.I replace my discs with plastic on the engines that I intend to use a lot, and they outlast the rest of the engine. I also agree about using castor oil - I've tried other lubricants, and wear rates inevitably go up. Not necessarily a deal-breaker in a competition engine for which performance is the big thing andlife expectancy at peak isn't that long anyway, but a major factor inengines which are expected to keep onrunning.

Cheers,

Adrian