kgwomack

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Just keeping the thread going. Anyone have anything new?

dasintex

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I'm still building mine, I was going to use a Revo52 Engine, heard about too many problems with overheating and excessive vibration, I think I'll wait and get the new DA60; as far as the Revo, I may use it in the TF GS P-40 or try and sell it.

Sundance2018

Well....I will add that I'm going to start building mine before too long and will be putting in a Super Tigre 60cc Twin w/ a custom fully functional muffler. I'm going to try to convert the ST over to diesel, though.

upton

Here's one

[img][/img]

Soon to fly

JIMMYTHEEAGLE

My Feedback: (47)

Here's mine. Just need to put the rivets on the wing and fuselage and spray a little wash across it to age it some. It's the ARC that I converted to a C model. Sierra gear and a moki 2.1 engine. flite-metal covering over fiberglass. It won't fly this year so I brought it up to my shop to show it off over winter.

Sundance2018

very nicely done!

tony-howard

My Feedback: (224)

I second that! Well done.

steeneck

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All,

I wanted to post this information regarding a very scale looking ~1/5 scale pilot that I'll be using in my 1/5 Scale Top Flite P-51 . I was excited once I found this figure, and hoped that it would wind up being as great as it looked online. I had searched many places for the right pilot, some places sold out, some did not respond to requests, others were simply not up to scale standards. When I received this figure today, I was amazed at the detail and lifelike accessories / scale features. I couldn't have asked for a better figure to complete the cockpit section of this project. The price was a bit high simply for a scale figure ($78, $94 after tax and shipping to Illinois), but the detail was worth it.

I'll be posting more images of this project once I complete some more small tasks and milestones, but wanted to include these as this pilot has exceeded my expectations.

William Bowman: USAAF 8th Air Force

http://www.gijoeelite.com/f_itemPart...t=GIDID-A80060

steeneck

My Feedback: (3)

Also,

I picked up some great tips on RCUniverse, this being one of them - images posted below. Tail wheel door connections for automatic opening and closing with tail wheel. Works perfectly. Took some time to connect and get the connection lengths perfect so they open to the right angle, and close tightly, without ripping out of the connection. Once the length was figured out, connection was easy, and works well.

tom2bell

Here is my winter project coming to a close
tom

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

Nice Mustang, so it came out and saw it's shawdow.......winter is almost over

fujiman

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hi guys anyone know what the correct wing dihedral angle is on the p-51. please help!!!!!!!!

tony-howard

My Feedback: (224)

It's 5° per wing panel - almost twice what it comes with.

Leroy Gardner

Buchtes and some of you others, I need some answers about decals for this plane. Where can I get high quality water slide decals in different themes, like crypes a mitey 111rd and so on?. Aeroloft has high quality dry transfer 1/5 scale sets but I'm concerned about the pressure it takes to put them on. It won't take much pressure to damage the balsa under them. Have any of you used them?.

My plane is getting close to a paint job but I would like to get decals before I paint.

About your gear, they are lhe same ones I have and there the right ones for this plane . I also figured out how to mount the main doors and make them look semi scale if your not doing inner doors? I used the ply ones in the kit. It took some time to get them formed to fit the transitions but they really turned out nice.

Hey, those springs in the gear struts are way to stiff for a 20-25 lb. plane, I cut 5 coiles off them and they feel alot better. From the box I think it said they'll support 40 pounds, put one on a scale and push it down and you'll see what I mean and if you land hard it can damage your mounts. Some guys tear them out because they did'nt box in between the mounting ribs.[&o] Not good.

Appreciate any help you guys may have on the decals. Leroy

Tango Juliet

If you've properly fiberglassed the airplane, dry transfer decals shouldn't do any damage to the underlying wood.

Leroy Gardner

Thanks Tango Juliet for incouragement. When I glassed the plane I used nitrate dope and filled it with dope and talc because its lighter than epoxy. I know its not as hard but its firm. Aeroloft is said to have the best markings out there so guess I'll get them. Spendy buggers but you often get what you pay for. Plane will have alot of detail and I just don't want to see decal edges in the nomenclature after clear coating. Thanks, Leroy

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Leroy,

I've ordered custom made water slide decals from Aeroloft in the past. Not that I think you would have any problems with their dry transfers. They do not take excessive pressure to transfer and I think a dope/talc finish is up to the task.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Leroy,
I agree the extra clear edge overhang weather it be stick on or water slide looks like crap on a scale bird. Masking and paint is very time consuming.

The Aeroloft stuff is pricey,, but saves a ton of time

p.s.
I have a RTC kit I'm starting as soon as I finish my current project,. I'm pondering Color schemes aswell. I'll be using the Spychalla Aircraft B/C conversion. I started messing with the retracts while I was waiting for some Ultracote to come in. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10472740/tm.htm if interested

Leroy Gardner

Thanks Chad & Scale only for input. My concern about surface and decals is a no concerne , I'm going with Aeroloft. I'll cut as much excess off decals as possible and use transfer tape to hold them together and in position plus it will offer a nice surface to rub on - pull the tape off and it's a done deal. Tape is low adheasion and should work nicely.

Now there is another way to opperate retracts ? I like you guys who have an engaged brain, always comming up with new ideas. You won't have to worry about air loss and save on the price of a 60 lb. deployment valve, which mine will have. I hope it works out real well for you. Can do same thing on tail wheel. That brings up another question ? Do you have a proven (easy) way for tail wheel doors, or do you use the kicker style used on the ARF. One of the guys rigged up ball links but it looks like they come open way to far. I'm kicking things around for mine now, I'll come up with something. I'm like you Scale, I like scale. I have a ton of hours in this thing now, whats a few more? I have some pictures posted back on or around page 56 or so, It's been one hell of a project for this old guy.

Happy building and safe flying to all, Leroy

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

If you will be using the dry transfers then this will be a non-issue as they do not have any carrier film and thus no excess to cut off. In fact, unless things have changed, the Aeroloft transfers do not contain any film of any sort but are 100% ink which makes them very thin as well. About the only down side is the need for a clear coat and it sounds like you had planned to do that anyway. Great looking 'stang by the way, best of luck with it.

FBaity

My Feedback: (2)

I used the tail door method shown with ARF and has worked well for 5 years, replace rubber bands once a year. Don't forget to install centering springs on tail wheel or it will jam in the up position.

Leroy Gardner

Hi Frank, those springs your talking about, do they go on the ends of the cables and is it because the wheel is turning in there when rudder is used ? I wondered about that and thought there has to be some kind of relief, there is very little swing room. The next thing is getting the right spring tension. Looks like a one inch spring will fit nicely. I realize ya have to play with some of this stuff to get things to work right and its great having so many guys like you willing to help us do it. This is my first experience with air retracts and I hate the sound of " oh crap", If you know what I mean. One other question, what hole in the arm did you mount the springs to? I know it effects travel radius.

Thank you for your help and we may talk again. Leroy

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Leroy,
you need to connect them from gear's steering arm to the structure of the retract, so when the pull pull cable goes slack, the wheel/strut stays straight.

These are on my Ziroli p-47 I added this year, but the gear and the concept is the same,, there are more scale ways, but that involves a electronic sequencer and more intricate linkages, for a sports scale plane I think this is fine.. for a contest quality plane,, you might be will to put more time/money into it

This still need some tinkering,, the springs are a little to stiff for this ap

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g94Aq-DxCrA[/youtube]

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Hi
I see you are in Avon.
Which club are you flying from?
I fly at the Suburban field just off of RT.83.

Just curious

Fabio

FBaity

My Feedback: (2)

I attached my springs simular to how scale did his except I drilled a small hole in the little bumper arm that opens the doors and attached the spring from the steering arm there. Either way would work fine.