Frank C. Bowman

My Feedback: (13)

[8D]I'm still here in N.M.,going fishing tomorrow. What email did you use and what rings do you need? Email is [email protected] Take Care all & Merry Christmas Frank Bowman

Twin Star

I sent it to your ringmaster email, it may have gone to your junk mail.
As it turns out. Now I'm not going to be able do anything with this engine till after the Holidays, so I will contact you again soon after the holidays.

Merry Christmas
Bob

alex_scratch_built

Hi there.
Ok so I have a brand new DLE 20cc (not broken in) and I have a few questions about those "magic" rings.
I took my engineapartjust to make sure everything was ok. There were no shavings but I noticed that the ring was very tight on the cylinder

1- From what I could read and understand on this thread, your rings do not apply a "spring force" against the cylinder? They are exactly the right size minus .001 or .002?
2- will this improve the lifespan of a gas engine?
3- should I do the breakin with the stock ring or the "magic ring"

Thanks in advance

Frank C. Bowman

My Feedback: (13)

When I make my rings I heat treat them with lower tension. What this meens is less heat buildup in cylinder while engine is running. I also use fine grained cast iron for rings which seats quicker because my rings are round. Other manufactures rings are made made of unknown materials and are very hard. These rings just don't seem to ever seat and a lot of compression is lost past the ring which relates to dead stick landings, less power, engine won't idle as well, etc. With my rings engine idle better, have higher compression & power, RPM increase, less heat buildup, etc. My rings I make in lots of 10-15 by hand & not mass produced for better quality. All standard rings from 1" bore to 2" bore same price, $10 ea. Shipping per order $4. Email me to place order or send message thru RCU. Thanks Frank Merry Christmas to All.

alex_scratch_built

Thanks for the quick reply Frank.

I will place an order shortly but I have a few more questions:

1- Do you ship to Canada? If so how much would it be?
2- Sorry this is my 1st gas engine so I would like to know if you recommend breaking it in with your ring or the stock one?

Thanks

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

when you break in a gas engine, you break in the ring, so run the ring you plan to run with, which in this case sounds like the bowman ring

Frank C. Bowman

My Feedback: (13)

Yes I ship all over the world First Class international for $4. To Canada it takes 10-14 days to get rings as I ship in padded envelopes to prevent breakage. The postal system takes extra time to process as a result but I don't get complaints about broken rings anymore. Take care & Merry Christmas Frank Bowman

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Frank I installed the rings in my Ryobi 31 you made for me. All I can say is WOW what a difference in compression from stock. This thing should be strong when I get it done.

Frank C. Bowman

My Feedback: (13)

Great News, that is what I like to hear. Happy Flying & Merry Christmas to all. Frank Bowman

bcchi

Hello Frank,
We have had great luck with your rings in all three of the DL 30 that we have installed them in.Better compression right off the bat.eaiser hand starts and 100 to 150 better RPM.They will only get better. Am flying the DL 20 now a real little monster.I believe DLE did make a improvement in there rings but still not nearly as good as your.I will be ordering more rings for the DL30 and also DL 20s.
Had to close C&H after 30 years.I am sure you have heard about my bad luck with a surgery this past summer.Staph in my sternum.Must have more surgery.
Closed partly because of health and far east.If you no what i mean.
Merry Christmas and a good new year.
BCCHI

Frank C. Bowman

My Feedback: (13)

Hello Terry, Great news, Hope all goes well with surgeries. The far east cost us a lot in many ways. Take care, God Bless. Merry Christmas, Frank

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Just a testimonial... I have been using Frank's rings for years and they work just great. It is standard procedure for me now when I start on an engine project to put on the "need" list a new ring from Frank. You can't go wrong with his rings, and you'll be happy with any engine you put one in.

AV8TOR

bcchi

This is not Terry,this is Bill C.BCCHI
Happy new year.
BCCHI

captinjohn

Hi Bill, Frank & Terry.....here is wishing you & everyone a Happy New Year. Capt,n said that!

bcchi

Hi Frank,
Did you get my order for rings for DL20&30. Not sure what I ordered but want three rings for DL 20 and two for DL 30.If you have sent fifferent thats OK.
No Hurry,
' BCCHI

captinjohn

BCCHI,
Let me know how the F. Bowman ring works out in the DLE 20. I will do the same...but it will be some time before I get the DLE20. Got to sell my house & a few other things too. It is a slow market right now! Best Regards Capt,n

captinjohn

Not a Reply....just a short note! I got a custom piston ring from Frank Bowman and installed it in my Supertiger .75.The custom ringwas a perfect fit & the engine has not been run yet, but alreadyhas verygood compression. I look forward to racing my friend who runs a .90 Tiger on his bird! Every engine I put a Bowman ring in had more compression...and intake suction...a good thing. Thanks Frank,

Capt,n

alex_scratch_built

Hi Frank,

I bought 2 rings for dle 20s. On my engine, everything seems in order but on my friends, he says it is tight.
Tighter than the original.

What should he do?

Thanks

Alex<br /

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Did you check the ring gap first? You may need to file the end a bit if the fit is too tight.

earlwb

Did he clean out the ring groove using the old ring before installing the new ring? Then like Super08 stated check the ring gap too.
If the ring seems more thick, measure the old ring and the new ring. If the old ring is thinner, let Frank Bowman know. its possible they (the engine company) changed something along the way.

captinjohn

With my Supertiger...the ring went on the piston & rotated freely. That was good. I did need to really clean the bore with a scotch brite pad and try a few times to compress the ring. It finally compressed enough for the piston & ring to slide down in sleeve. Super good compression & without plug in it turns over free. That is what you want. Do be very carefull if you file the end gap. Try the ring in the sleeve without the piston first. Capt,n

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

For others reading this

Most later Super Tigers have pinned rings. You have to orient the ring correctly relative to the pin or you will not be able to compress the ring enough to get the assembly to go into the sleeve.

If the ring gap is not positioned correctly in most two strokes, the gaps will catch in a port and possibly ruin the whole engine.

karolh

Hi Frank,

Just stumbled across this thread and figure I'd would pop in to say just how pleased I am with the performance of the Bowman ring in my G20. Although I did not get a ring gap of .002" - .003" as you suggested, at .0055" the engine runs great with lots more compression and a significant increase in rpm over the stock ring, which had a gap of .0165" and showed signs of uneven wear after approx. 2 gals of fuel.

Karol

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Frank,, thank you for the info !!

but if you will, please tell us the correct way to prepare used Liners for new Rings in smaller Glow Engines in the .10 to 120 size,, please include both Chromed Liners and non-Chromed-Steel Liners,,

I see many Modelers replacing Rings without preparing the Liners, mostly model Helicopter pilots, many model Helicopter pilots find themselves replacing Bearings do to rust (because of the High Nitro Fuels) every 2 to 5 gallons, so they replace the Ring when they (we) replace Bearings..


thank you Frank!!

Jim

Frank C. Bowman

My Feedback: (13)

There are several things that I do as far as liner & piston prep. is concerned. I use a soft SS 6" wire brush and Dawn Power Disolve to clean pistons. You can use regular Scotch Brite to clean pistons & liners, just don't get carried away. If liner ID is in good condition just install new ring, but if liner ID very smooth a light hone job will help to seat new ring. Measure older thin walled liners to assure they are not egg shaped. This needs to be done with precision tools & OD Micrometer. I use snap gage and measure in several places around liner ID. I always lap liner tops flat, a piece of 320 to 400 grit sandpaper taped down to very flat surface will work. Hold inverted liner top down on paper, pull liner across paper with opposite hand. Make sure to keep it flat at all times. Turn approx 90 degrees and repete process until liner top is flat. I find approx 60 percent of liner tops arn't flat, some makes better than others. This is primarily because of poor grinding wheel condition or play in grinder spindles or starting the grinding process with a cold grinder. And some liners are drawn with mandrels which distorts liner tops at times. After that, a very lite hone job is good if needed, but great care must be taken on non chromed & chromed liners. I have used auto brake cylinder hones with smooth stones and the 3 stone hones are best. Use hone on drill press or lathe slowest speed with somewhat up & down motion to give cross hatch. You can use a wooden dowel with hacksaw slit in one end and a piece of Emery cloth from 1" to 1&1/2" wide X 2" to 4" or more depending on dia. of liner. Fold tape in half grit sides out, again turn it slow with rapid up & down strokes. Use only 320 to 400 grit as anything other than suggested will scratch liner too much & wear out new ring quickly. Check outside of liner to assure no nicks or dings are felt or visiable. Try liner in block to see how it fits, a little oil on liner helps to keep it from binding. Before installing ring or rings, check ring fit in ring groove and liner. Ring shouldn't bind in either and gap should be .001 to .0015 per every 1" of bore for cast iron rings. Most modern engine pistons are pinned to keep ring in one location. This is done for several reasons but primarily to keep ring ends from entering open port window. Mark the top of the piston with a line pointing to pin location, that is where ring ends go on both sides of pin and the line helps locate ring during assembly. During assembly ring ends should never go into open port window, always ride up & down on solid cylinder wall surface. Never force anything, if something is tight, it's wrong. I fit rings to liners & in ring groove, and lap liner tops flat for free with ring orders if you send parts to me. I hope some of this info helps and this is what I do, there are other ways of accomplishing the above mentioned ring installation. On older 2 ring pistons bottom new ring can be gently expanded over bottom of piston skirt & up piston into bottom groove, or install in upper groove and work it down into second groove. There are precautions to be considered in both ways of doing this. I always say you can run just top ring if you wish as my rings are round with tight gaps so second ring not needed. I can expand more on this if anyone needs this info. Take Care & God Bless All. Frank Bowman