Kenrico

http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=734


This is the one i got for the Tornado, I flew a friends Boomerang sprint with that one and it worked great.

BaldEagel

The Electronic Low Loss Jet-Tronic valve is a whole new ball game if you have not used one, you don't know what you are missing no other valve comes close or uses less air for the same braking force, saves a lot of heartack on the field when you don't run out of brakes, a big safety factor, it also has a pulsing brake application so in effect ABS which will not lock the brakes and flat the tires.

Mike

arockwell

OK, I got snowed in today and was going to do a good bit of building. But my heat pump had to quite working on one of the coldest days of the year with 8to10 inches of snow on the ground. I did get started on the Servos in the wings though. I mounted the servos and drilled the holes added some thin CA to hardend the wood up some. Then I installed the 4 screws that came with the servos. IAlso made the slots for the control arms, I used 30 min Epoxy with MicroBalloons to glue in the control horns on the flaps andailerons. I then usedVaseline on the hinges on around the hinge pin so that the Epoxy does not glue the hinges in one spot.Here are a few pics of the little bit I did get done today

arockwell

I also got the nose gear done and the steering cables hooked up. I took the plastic cup and painted it jet white. I then made the hole in the fuse big enough to fit the nose gear up in it. I had to trim into the wood on the former a little for the wheel to fit. Then I used Zap Goo and glued in the plastic cup. I then started on the steering. First thing was to mount the steering servo, then I used 2-56 wires for the pull-pull cables and plastic straws or antenna tubes as the guides. I glued in the the plastic tubes so that the spring out when the gear is up as to take up the slack in the cables. So I can run the steering cables loose and still have the nose gear return down and locked.

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

WOW! That looks like alot of steering throw witth the cables so far out on the arm?

Dave

Modellbau USA

My Feedback: (5)

I agree that is a little to much steering, The nose wheel does not really need that much I would use a smaller control arm.

arockwell

Ya now that i hooked up the radio for a test its way to much arm. But you know me I go Big or stay home. LIke when I ride motocross.
I will just change it to the other double arm thats smaller. Thanks for the heads up.

PS. is anyone else building one or am I the only one. if so post some pics guys.

Kenrico

I'm building also, but work has the progress slow. I got al servos in, all hinged, and the turbine is fitted. I'm hoping to get some work done tonight, what metod did you use to open up the slots where the control horns glue in?? I was thinking maybe a fine point dremel tip.

funflyerf4

My Feedback: (6)

I see you put the controll horns in on a angle and not square to the controll serferce will it travel in the correct geomentry?


Henry what is the correct way to install the horns in the wings?

BaldEagel

The control horns do not have to be square to the surface, but square to the hinge line also what is important is to get the clevis/ball link bolt hole in the control horn above the hinge point then you will get the corect and equal operation in both directions, The horns should also line up with the push rod and be at right angles to the hinge line.

Mike

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

The flap control horn should be aft of the hinge line, not on the hinge line as you have it.

Dave Rigotti

BaldEagel

Nope works prefectly well as it is thanks.

Mike

Kenrico

What tool-metod are you guys using to make the slots for the horns?

Modellbau USA

My Feedback: (5)

Just to add a quick note to the flap picture that was posted earlier. DO NOT USE THAT MUCH FLAP this is not a flacon and you will get in to a bad stall condition if you slow it down to much.

funflyerf4

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Henry I need some help with the controll horns for the ailerons should they be installed sq. to the hinge line or on a angle ?

Modellbau USA

My Feedback: (5)

We did it square to the hinge line. If you look at the pictures on our manual you can see exactly what I mean.

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

You'll notice the movement is more towards the wing surface than towards the servo as you have it setup as the flap is lowered. The horn SHOULD be displace away from the hinge line for optimum geometry. A simple mistake. Shown below is a much better setup. Flap pushrod travels almost "over center"at the servo at full flap. This takes a tremendous load off the servo at full flap. Note horn is displaced from the hinge line.

I'd install the flap horns "turned around" to face aft and you'll be MUCH better off......

Try it...You'll like it!

Dave

BaldEagel

Perhaps the geometory would be better, but it was not a mistake It was purpose designed that way, because that is the way I wanted it, the push rod was moved to the top of the servo arm to allow a straight line down the servo when full flap was selected, the ariframe in question is a Falcon 120 that is now four years old with over 150 flights on it, 100 by me and 50 odd by its new owner, the flaps are used with reflexed ailerons to stop any tendancy to stall when slowed down, from what Henry is saying the Tornado is not as forgiving.

Now shall we go into the merits of soldered push rods and single point horns.

Mike

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

go Mike

geneh-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

Could an old Ram 750F be used for this plane or is it to big and heavy? It is only 18 pounds of thrust so that should not be a problem.

Drinker with a flying problem.

Hi all,
Ive also made a start building and have already come to a grinding halt. I ordered the dedicated servo package and my 5 MBA8000 servos all operate the same way. Fine for the ailerons but not so fine for the flaps when using y leads.
Speaking of Y leads, one of my y leads has been assembled incorrectly, with a negative wire set at the centre of the 3 pin plug. Anyone else having the same problems with the supplied servo kit?
Also, maybe Im missing something here but my supplied spring air gear legs dont even come close to fitting within these supplied orange wheel bays. Im aware of the gear addendum but my gear legs dont even fit into the wells to stat with..............
Anyways now its off to sort through this pile of servo extensions to try to figure which ones go where!!

Modellbau USA

My Feedback: (5)

The only servo that should have been reversed was the elevator mini servo nothing else. You have to mix the flaps or use a match box. The extenstions all need to look the same if one is different please take out the wire ad make them look the same. I hope everybody understands that we had to mass produce over 2000 and 5000 extensions in 3 months so if a few are not right please forgive us. As for the wheel not fitting in the plastic this is the first i have heard of that problem. If there is anything you need please send me an email and I will take care of the problem.

Drinker with a flying problem.

Terrific thanks Henry,
When I saw the coincidence of a servo that needed reversing and a ylead that was different to the others I thought I was missing something. Ylead is all sorted now and because Im using a 9 channel radio only, Ill need a ylead on the flaps. I think Ill buy a pair of servos for the flaps and get one reversed at the hobby store to eliminate the need for a matchbox. It's a pity one of the supplied flap servos couldnt be reversed like the elevator servo has been.
Anyway, back to the mancave! This Tornado is starting to look sweet.

Kenrico

did you try putting one servo facing forward and the other one backward?

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

That won't work. But if the linkages are set up so both flap servo arms face the same direction (right or left) then there is no need to reverse one of the servos.

Joe