JohnF

Good stuff Martin, keep it coming. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

ARUP

Very nice work!

Guy Fawcett

Hi Martin

Long time no see. Nice project, IC engine is a big suprise though. Don't forget to factor in anti-vibration through out the construction.

Other then winning the motor what else convinced you to go gas. WWI always smells better with a whiff of castor oil


Guy in the frozen evirons of Edmonton.

caribefoto

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Could you post a photo and/or a description of your hinge jig?..........John

Nieuport nut

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Hi Guy, even 18 months ago, batteries for either the Axi 5330 or Cyclon 110 I have, were pretty pricey. Add the time required for charging this size of pack and the DL50 made sense for this size of plane. Plus, I'm still enough of a gearhead to enjoy engines despite the trade-offs.

Jon, there are a series of photos that show how I made my hinges. The jig is made of ply and doweling. The inner brass tube is glued to the leading edge of the control surfaces. The outer tubing is the same diameter as the thickness of the tail surfaces.

However, the picture loading here is really bad. It took 3X to load my last pictures, this set is on its seventh loading in the past two days. I keep getting timed out. My DSL has been plenty fast for this site, and others, in the past, so I don't think it's me.


Martin

JohnF

Yeah, there seems to be something wrong with the site because once I enlarge a photo It will not let me do it again. Clive, your D1 is going to be outstanding and I hope you make the plans available. I really miss my Aviatik 30.40 and a 1/3 scale D1 is very tempting with all the documentation I have acquired. I also have a ton of stuff on the Phoenix D1/DII which would make a sweet 1/3 scale model. The Aviatik D1 paint schemes are really more of an attraction however.

JohnF

Hey Martin, I was just looking at your tail skid bungee nail heads. When I made mine I bent the nails and JB Welded them into an aluminum tube so both sides were connected and the tube was JB Welded to the bottom of the fuselage. This kept the bungee from pulling the nails out. Just my 2 cents worth.

Nieuport nut

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Hi John,
I looked for aluminum nails for the bungee"bollards" without luck so made them from a 6-32 blind nut, tangs flattened, and soldered to a piece of copper plated PCB, Then a 6-32 bolt goes in and a short length of brass tube is soldered over the head and to the blind nut to form a stalk that gets JB Weld-ed through a 1/4" ply gusset and to an 1/8 ply bulkhead. Your way would be simpler!

I have a lot of stuff on the Phoenix too - I'd do the Naval version with the CDL and the wing stripes. I would hate to mess up the nose with an engine cut-out though. Same for the H-B I. Have you seen Dave Hurrel's plans of either of these?

John, (caribephoto), send me an email and I'll try sending the hinges photos to you directly.

Guy,
Much of my pondering over the structure has dealt with the vibration it has to withstand from the gas engine. (It's so easy with electrics!)

(This may work for the hinge jig.)

Martin

(WHOO_HOO!!!)

Trev

Very nice, skillful build of a rare subject! I am also curious to see if you can meet your low weight target on such a large airframe, I think with the huge wing area you shouldn't have to worry too much about a few extra pounds.

What incidences will you go with and will the aviatik have a scale airfoil?
Also what material did you use for the control horn cores? (they look great btw!)

Nieuport nut

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Hi Trev,

The basic fuselage you see in the photos plus the tail surfaces completed so far weigh 2kg - 4lb. 5oz. I am hoping for an 10lb fuselage and U/C including wheels. Add 6 lb. for the 4 wing panels, 1.5 lbs for the rigging. The engine and canister is about 6.5lb and the radio will be about 1lb. That totals 25lb. PLUS anything needed to balance the model. This size and scale of project is new to me so these are mostly guesses. Certainly with 3000sq.in. (21sq.ft.), I've got some leeway.

The control horns are 1/16 fibreglass board and the "fattening" is 1/16" basswood epoxied on each side.

No, the scale airfoil would be nearly impossible to do even at this scale - see below. The trailing edge would be exceptionally difficult, and I am trying for an everyday flier, (or at least not a once or twice a year flier). The airfoil I am using is a Geo 240 which is set at 4.5 degree incidence with the tail set at 3.5 degrees.

Martin

caribefoto

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the jig tutorial. I struggled a bit with similar hinges for an Albatros D-V (Proctor) and swore at the time I would develop a better way, but you've done the job for me. Now I can go back to watching this excellent build come together............John

gabriel voisin

Hello Martin,

You can buy the spoke wheels in the Shop of Vogelsangaeroscale for your models.

Jörg Vogelsangis his fatherand an absolute master in the model building, he had a large company of metalwork in Germany

The spoke wheels fromVogelsang Jr.are made in Germany and so good as the original.

I knowJörg and he builds super scale models from the pioneering days, all in 1/2 or 1/3 withhigh weight.

Jörg has built and flown the Wright Flyer as a 1/3 full scale model, made of alu.

The address ofthe U.S. store is here in the forum.

http://vogelsang-aeroscale.com/accessories.html

greetings gabriel

Nieuport nut

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks for the link, Gabriel. They certainly are nicely made. Hmmm... now I have 9.3" Dubros, 9.2" Williams Bros, should I get a set of Vogelzangs?

Martin

Nieuport nut

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A few more photos.

The elevator control quadrants. They are 1/16 copperclad PCB board with a 1/8" wheel collar soldered to the copper side and another JB welded to the other side. The axle is 1/8" spring steel. I had to brace it somewhat as the lightened bulkhead wasn't stiff enough. Each will control one elevator.

The seat is made of balsa made 1/64 ply. It has to be padded and covered with leather. You can make out the support frame made of 3/16" dowel and aluminum tubing. There will be a support flange on the inside of the side ply covering once that is added.

The bungee attachment is a 6-32 bolt going into a blind nut. The tangs are flattened and a PCB disk soldered to the bottom of the blind nut. A short length of brass tubing is soldered over the bolt. This will be epoxied into the rear fuselage through 1/4" gussets.

Martin

Nieuport nut

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OOPS - double post.

fokker fan

Great work you're doing here, and thanks for the hinge jig sequence of pics, that'll be helpful helpful when I get going on my DR1.

Mein Duff

Martin, your tail section is a work of art..I appreciate your attention to quality workmanship...just the laminated horn alone is inspiring to behold!

Madman

Martin

Where are you getting the 1/64 ply from and how much are you paying a 4'x4' sheet? There is a place in Burlington (Exotic Woods) who carries it and it runs about $100 per 4'x4' sheet.

Stephen

geezeraviation

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National Balsa has 1/64 for under 14.00 for a 1' X 4' sheet, Hard to find it that thin in 4'X4'.
Doc

Nieuport nut

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Thanks for the compliments guys.

Stephen, a friend, (building a 35% Bristol Scout), and I, ordered a couple of hundred dollars worth of plywood from Balsa USA. We won't use it all on these models. but we have lots for the next ones.

Martin

caribefoto

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I've purchased 24" x 48" x 1/64" aircraft ply from Aircraft Spruce if you need more.............John

Nieuport nut

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My friend and I just spend a few hours cutting up wood. We are lucky enough to have a local family lumberyard about 20 minutes away, and what should we find but a 14' 8/4 length of basswood. (That's 2x8 rough cut - needs jointing and planing) It cost us $60, but we have a pair of prop blanks, (2" X 3" X36"), all our spars for both my Aviatik and his Bristol, and we still have almost 1/2 of the wood left. The grain is incredibly straight - I couldn't ask for better.

Factoid: the four 1/4X1/2"X48" bass spar caps for each of my 4 wing panels totals 6.60 oz. So the spar caps will total 26.4 oz. I expect the balsa webs will bring the total to about 30 oz.

Martin

gabriel voisin

Hi Martin,

nice work, have you something found at Vogelsang?

greetings gabriel

Nieuport nut

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Hi Gabriel:
I'll see how the new Williams Bros. wheels look before buying the Vogelsangs. I want to make sure the plane flies well first.

Martin

Nieuport nut

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OK - I am building the U/C and have a question about using the GTM tubing. How much wire stub should be glued in? I have bent and cut the wires so that there is about 1"- 1 1/2" inside the tubing. JB Weld is next with cotton batten inserted an inch "down tube" to prevent it running too far. Wires are all notched for better adhesion. Anything else I should know?

TIA

Martin