SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

IM AT 112 MM I NEED TO MOVE TO 125. BUT IT STILL WILL BE A TIGHT FIT. WHERE THE THROTTLE IS AND THE SERVO IS LOCATED I WOULD HAVE TO BEND THE WIRE SEVERAL TIMES. AND IT NEEDS TO EXIT WHERE THE BOLT HOLE IS.IF I ROUTE IT AROUND THE MOUNT ITS SEEMS IMPOSSIBE TO LINE IT UP NEVERMIND ALL THE BENDING ON THE ROD THRU TWO PLATES OF BALSA.Maybe using a flex cable would be better but still theres a lot of bending to do

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

has anyone had a problem running the throttle line that came with kit.has anyone installed this engine.My problem is carb location.most are front carbs..I seen one OS rear carb but it set up higher.Mine is directly in front on mount where it looks impossiabe to got a ez link and also running the cable from carb to servo it put a bind on it.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Shep,
Surely there must be an easy way, could you post some clearer pictures of engine position and throttle servo and then I;ll be able to post suggestions

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

.landing gear came today. going to have to build a plate to mount them. .hears more pics of engine mount.ive try using the rod that came with it and the double plastic one and they bind.I even ran it thru the mount hole taking one of the bolts out.even switch the throttle servo and the tank mount there too and not even in and it bind.

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

inside fuse.ive tryed putting on a fastener .and just the rod that came with it but since the tank is out works ok but when it has to be pushed to the side it binds.move left and right but binds

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Shep, here's what I suggest

- First the throttle horn needs to be 180 degrees opposite to where it is now so its clear of the engine mount. There is a grub screw on the ring around the horn, loosen it, pull it off and reposition it

- Then your problem will be that the throttle is close to the firewall, and as the throttle barrel moves in and out of the carb when it rotates it causes the rod to bind in its tube.

The solution to that is to allow some degree of freedom to the tube-rod. The way I do it is that I open a longer hole in the firewall (meaning it is 2-diameters on the axis the throttle barrel moves). Now the rod should not bind, but there is a gap around the tube through the firewall. I seal this gap with silicon glue which has enough elasticity to allow some movement to the tube-rod as the throttle opens and closes

- I also suggest attaching an EZ-link to the htrottle horn, then the whole rod-tube will move away from the firewall center and make alignment easier

Does all this make sense?

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

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w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

double post

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

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SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

Yes i understand that.never thought of that.i will give it a try.good thinking.thanks for your time working with me on this.Ill let you know how it comes out.

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

I seem to have nothing but problem when i have to add something to this plane.I got a master airscrew prop 12x8 today and it doesnt fit engine shaft.It goes in a little ways.CAN THIS BE DRILLED WITHOUT MESSING THE BALANCE UP.

ZERO-322

My Feedback: (2)

Get yourself a prop reamer it can be purchased from your local hobby store, and no it will not mess with the balance as long as you use a reamer it will keep the hole uniform so no worries

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

- First the throttle horn needs to be 180 degrees opposite to where it is now so its clear of the engine mount. There is a grub screw on the ring around the horn, loosen it, pull it off and reposition it










when i reverse the throttle it puts it opposite on giving it gas.what use to be off is now off but the movement changes.i think i explained it right

ZERO-322

My Feedback: (2)

?

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

as it is originally in the off position when i rotate it 180 the horn is in the off position but now the the barrel only moves one way which is down. it basically make it where off is on and on is off because the barrle move only one way.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

I'm glad to help you, don't be shy to ask any question

For the throttle you need to reverse the servo movement, there should be a reverse option for channel 3 on your transmitter

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

i wondered about that.was trying to run the working in my head if it would work

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

Thank W1ND6URFA and everyone.Im close to being done.W1ND6URFA thank engine throttle switching work great.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

If you want your Corsair to really stand out at the field buy a silver felt tip pen and highlight the panel lines

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8293573/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm#]Picture[/link]

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

GOT IT TOGETHER HAVING PROBLEM STARTING ENGINE.NEW TANK , LINES,SEALED AIRTIGHT.FA-80 SATIO GOLDEN KNIGHT.FULL THROTTLR FINGER ON MUFFLER TURNED 5-6 TURN CONTERCLOCKWISE.I DONT SEE ANY FUEL COMMING TRU TUBE.IT STARTS TO BUT SITS IN LINE.ANY SUGGESTIONS

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

It must be the fuel lines, can you explain your setup (2-line, 3-line) and connectivity

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

1 RUNNING TO CARB 1 TO MUFFLER AND REFUEL LINE WHICH HAS LINE CAP ON IT TIGHT.ALL NEW LINES WITH NO LEAKS

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

I'd double check all connections - especially carb line to make sure its the one with the fuel pickup

SHEPSTER

My Feedback: (2)

3 lines 1 bend in tank at top to vent ,ran to muffler//1 bent downward to refuel//1 with filter goes to carb. tank sealed no holes in lines all ran correctly.i can suck the fuel line and it comes out but when i put line on carb and open throttle open and block muffler and rotate conter clockwise nothing

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

It doesn't work like that, use an electric starter for 5 seconds with full throttle (no power on plug) that should prime the engine. Then 10% throttle, power plug and go

The Saito is a sound investment, it wont let you down