Cybertom

01vette,

Because you are early in the build you can do better than what I did during my repair. The most likely force that will be applied to your landing gear durning a hard landing accident will be to bend them backwards. There are two allen bolts that hold on each landing gear One at the top near the center of the fuselage and one at the bottom near the outer edge of the fuselage. During my landing accident the struts and wheels were pushed backwards which caused the top of my right strut to tear out of the firewall as it pivoted backwards. I have no photos of the repair but I do have photos of the damage. It makes me sick to this day. If you put a block of wood on each side between the front 2-fuselage formers where the top allen bolt attaches it binds them together making one really strong assembly.

outacontrol41

My Feedback: (9)

Ouch! [:@] I remember that.

outacontrol41

My Feedback: (9)

Now available.....

Flair Stearman PT-17 graphics package from Makuchal's Signs in Girdletree, MD. Contact me pm as I won't be allowed to sell / advertise here but will be glad to respond to your requests and provide pricing. Shown below is the complete package ready to use, application intructions will be provided.

outacontrol41

My Feedback: (9)

To enlarge for detail, click on the thumbnail then click on the outward arrows box at the bottom. It will come up full size.
[X(]
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!CAUTION!! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY VINYL LETTERING TO AN AIRPLANE PAINTED IN LATEX PAINT. IT WILL NOT STICK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

01vette

Tom:
Here is my note on how I set the horizontal stab to 3.5 degrees positive:
From Picture #1 I set up the fuselage so stringer #19 was level using a Robarts incidence meter. I placed 2 steel rulers across from side to side and clamped them to #19. I then mounted the meter on the rulers and adjusted the entire assembly for "Zero".

I sanded the #19 stringers to match the shape of #68 as close as possible.

I then mounted the horizontal and vertical stab to the fuselage and checked using a new digital incidence meter. I first adjusted the zero by mounting it on the same rulers the fuselage was set to zero incidence (see photo #2). I fabricated a triangle block to simulate the elevator and to give me a center-line for the horizontal stab.

The initial readings were 5.5 degrees positive. After numerous trials of sanding the the sheeting #17 on the bottom of the stab there was very little effect on reducing the angle. I then removed 1/2 mm of wood from #68 where it contacts former #47 and the results were as can be seen in photo #3 a perfect 3.5 degrees.

I believed that part #68 should have given the 3 degrees that is a call out on the drawings right out of the box. I guess I was wrong. I assumed it would be 3 degrees so I calculated that if I added 3 mm to the same point where I just removed 1/2 mm that I would get the new 3.5 degrees. Boy! was I wrong.

If the pictures do not appear on this message I will send them directly to anyone who is interested just send me your email address.

01vette

01vette

Tom:
Here is a note covering how I beefed up the formers where the landing gear is attached.

I utilized some soft pine and traced the outline of the first former in order to remove as much stock as possible to reduce the weight. I then located the holes in former #33 to transfer there location to the wood filler piece.

I drilled an appropriate size hole at these locations and counter sunk them to provide a pocket for the head of the allen head bolts to recess into.

I then glued the spacers into place.

Hope this is sufficient. I have been known to bounce a few times in landing.

See photos below.

I also took the liberty to post my last 2 builds here as well.

01vette

Tom:
Here is a note covering how I beefed up the formers where the landing gear is attached.

I utilized some soft pine and traced the outline of the first former in order to remove as much stock as possible to reduce the weight. I then located the holes in former #33 to transfer there location to the wood filler piece.

I drilled an appropriate size hole at these locations and counter sunk them to provide a pocket for the head of the allen head bolts to recess into.

I then glued the spacers into place.

Hope this is sufficient. I have been known to bounce a few times in landing.

See photos below.

I also took the liberty to post my last 2 builds here as well.

01vette

Tom:
Here is a note covering how I beefed up the formers where the landing gear is attached.

I utilized some soft pine and traced the outline of the first former in order to remove as much stock as possible to reduce the weight. I then located the holes in former #33 to transfer there location to the wood filler piece.

I drilled an appropriate size hole at these locations and counter sunk them to provide a pocket for the head of the allen head bolts to recess into.

I then glued the spacers into place.

Hope this is sufficient. I have been known to bounce a few times in landing.

See photos below.

I also took the liberty to post my last 2 builds here as well.

Cybertom

01Vette,

That's perfect. The way you reinforced the landing gear closely matches what I did although you were able to add more strength to the lower landing gear mount as well...excellent.

You minimized weight and maximized strength. Unless you have a large 7lb + radial engine you would typically be adding a significant amount of weight to the nose to balance this aircraft. Better that the nose weight provides a useful structural benefit than to simply to balance the aircraft. This modification should have been part of the original construction plans.

You nailed it on the incidence. Very nice job. I can't wait to see how your bird fly’s. Should be far superior to the BS I have had to deal with.

Nice job on your other builds as well!

chasrb

Quick question. would you use gorilla glue to glue to fasten the ailerons on your Stearman instead of using 30 min + epoxy? I have not really employed the gorilla glue in my builds and am looking for comments.

I thought about this since I have covered one lower wing half...

Cybertom

Charsb,
I used Epoxy to glue in my Ailerons. The great thing about Epoxy is that you can use Alcohol to clean it up really easy.

I have never used Gorilla glue but read a review about it compared to other glues. Apparently it's a great gap filler but not easy to clean up.

chasrb

I'll "stick" with good old epoxy....


Hey, cybertom, do you have any detail shots of the center section cabanes and how you attached the wires to that section?

I have completed covering all the flying surfaces! Now on to the fuse!

Still wonder if I should use enamel or latex for the fiberglass parts and the center section cabanes, let alone matching the color as close as possible. I have two small cans of latex I had made up to match the fuse Lt Blue. They are close, but to me they are still a little noticeable in color difference.

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Chasrb,

I used the gorilla glue on my 50cc extra hinges as well as my new 100cc bird. It works great. If you want to go that route I'd be happy to help you out with.

Cybertom

FLAIR STEARMAN ON EBAY

Guys...Mint Flair Stearman kit on ebay!
[link=http://cgi.ebay.com/FLAIR-BOEING-PT-17-STEARMAN-SCALE-RC-MODEL-AIRPLANE-KIT-/170610837359]ebay Flair Stearman Kit[/link]

Cybertom

NOTICE THE UPPER WING INCIDENCE

Here is a Flair Stearman for sale which apparently fly’s well enough to compete in Top Gun. Notice the incidence of the upper wing. It’s definitely is a couple of degrees less than the lower wing. According to Flair both the upper and lower wing should have the same incidence. More and more modelers who have built this airplane are lowering the incidence of the upper wing. My guess is to give it more stable horizontal flight characteristics. I have changed my incidence on the upper wing and dropped it 2 degrees. The upper is now 1.5 degrees and the lower 3.5 degrees. The more I see aircraft with the same modification the more excited I am to see if this resolves this aircrafts propensity to climb.

[link=http://www.franktiano.com/planesforsale/Forsalemain.htm]Top Gun Flair Stearman for SALE[/link]

chasrb

p51-b contact me and see when we can work on this.

Pm me

450strmn

It's great stuff, interesting to read the Stearman wing incidence discussion.  I have built four 1/4 scale Stearmans - the first was Don Godfreys plans around '81.  My own plans after that.  His airplane had thin symetrical airfoils, arrowshaft spars, nylon cord flying wires and the incidence was scale for the lower wing and empenage and the upper wing was 2 degrees - 1 less than the lower wing.   It was the best snap rolling airplane - wouldn't loose 6" of altitude.  Also, it was great inverted.  A Super Stearman!   I sometimes think of building a very scale version with the upper wing at 4 degrees, it would fly sooo...slowly and should land very slowly, too.  True scale airspeeds.  The ailerons still effective even with the upper wing in a mushing/ near stall.  The falling leaf that John Mohr flies, shows off this capability of the stock airplane!  BUT inverted, it would be a handful...Ever note how no fullscale aerobatic pilots fly any outside manuevers in a Stearman.  Even with my models, the tendency to "fly out" as  "into the ground" while doing an outside loop will GET YOUR attention.  I think the Flair Stearman has really thick airfoils ... are they over 12% of cord?  They look like it.  A NACA23012 with a 60" cord (stearman) would be 1.8" for a true quarter scale airplane.  I build my models with a semi-symetrical, but I have a set of plans drawn with the scale airfoil, that I may someday build.  By the way, I build/fly my airplanes with pvc coated kevlar flying wires.  I lost two airplanes due to radio #$??!!*#  with metal flying wires and would never put metal wires back on an rc airplane..maybe I'm just an old guy!  Joe Philips AMA 30041

chasrb

Here are some photos of where I am in the build... Thanks to Outacontrol41 for the great work on the vinyls!! The wings are the last to put the markings on.

Still lots to do....

450strmn

Wow!  Chasman..looks great!  What engine is that?   Looks perfect size for the airplane.  So, is Frank Zappa ready to go flying?!  The tires and landing gear "nut crackers" are really scale.    I'm hoping to upload some fuselage pictures, tomorrow.  Joe

outacontrol41

My Feedback: (9)

Nice work on the vinyl install..... I couldn't have done it better myself! [8D]

chasrb

I used Robarts instead of the Flair supplied struts, had to make some upgrades to the frame to support the way the Robarts mount versus the stock ones. The tires and wheels are from Glennis. A bit on the heavy side, but it won't prove to be an issue with the Seidel ST710 radial up front.


I look forward to seeing your photos.

chasrb

Thanks outacontrol41! I found it was easier than I had thought. Your tips helped a lot. I made the intake from the PVC pipe - used my heat gun worked great and like you said make for a very scale looking intake.

Been debating on the center section rivets. I have seen some with and some with out and some with a lot of them. So I have to keep looking for the one to use. I have a functional gas fill cap from PSP mfg I hope to use in the center section with a pipe to the fuel tank in the fuse.

Now the magic mix of floetrol to latex for the strut covers , cowl and tail section.....

450strmn

Took a few photos last night. You can see my Kevlar flying wires - myKISS - light weight & inexpensive solution. The elevator is bellcrank operated, concealed control horn, pull/pull cable from forward mounted servo. rudder is pull/pull, fwd. mnt. servo. tailwheel is pull/pull, contealed horns. Tailwheel is a backasswrd. mounted Dubro nosewheel, mounted to the aft former and spring loaded gives great shock absorbtion. The wheel pants are my babies. I could never find a decent pair that actually streamlined a wheel. These fit CB & assoc. 6". The cowling is 11.5" dia. scaled to fit an R-985 P&W, have the molds for wheel pants, gear fairings at fuselage and the belly cover just aft of the firewall. The gear is welded 4130 tubing, .075" od. The gear is spring loaded and I use a simple design to give me about 1 1/4 travel.

Still working the engine install. Need to turn the brass bushings to use 6mm plugs, will replace my old C&H ignition for Chinese made unit.
5 cubic in. airhobbies motor, home made muffler...

The rudder is masked & painted. I think I need to find out about the vinyl graphic stuff. I really want to build up a model of Susan Dacy's Stearman....but I don't like to paint THAT much!? Joe

Will get the old 4 aileron wings on soon, and then start back on my two holer.

450strmn

Okay, two more and I'm done.

chasrb

Joe, looks nice! There are a number of vinyl guys out there that may have your decals made. I can not speak for outacontrol41, he did a great job on the Stearman decals for me.


I used to go thru Bryan on my way (the back way) from Ft. Hood to NW Houston (Cypress TX) for many years.