texx

Good work Spiike.[X(]

You resolve problems with ease and convenience.

You are ingenious. Bravo

Spiike

lol yeah, well it took a day to do it, but it was on the todo list, and now its done, it looks great! body could be lowered another inch or 2, but then i would have to cut the wheel wells like the yellow crawler of texxs

The Jackalope

Nice work bud. You got alot of work into that chassis.

It looks like I'm crossing over.........and going HG. I'm gonna get an RS10-xt.

HOWEVER, As I upgrade the RS, all it's stock parts will trickle into Red Rubicon, and I too will try building a FULL custom chassis. I've just gone as far as I can go with these stock elec. boards. I should have gone 4th gear like you guys.

Spiike

Yeah, the only reason I love this thing is probably due to the 4th gear, new motor, and the fact that i can fabricate with tin snips and aluminum thin plating.

I'm not sure whether to say that the articulation helps much with flip overs, summer salts off steap hills, and other troublesome areas that it just gets stuck and digs a hole, but new tires might solve that problem, getting a better servo for better steering, but then again this thing is pretty much as best as it can get with the new bright electronics, agreed. but just for a starter toy this thing rocks!

I think putting my jeep rubicon body on a scx10 would be fun! but the wheel base is 10 inches, meaning I would have to modify the scx10 links to play with it, who knows what the future will bring, I love my jeep!

The Jackalope

The RS10 is bought and paid for!!!   Weeeeeeeee

I'm planning on putting my spare rubicon body on it.  The fenders and floor are all butchered like yellow crawler.    we'll see when it gets here.

texx

Cool crawler [X(]



http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...rticle_id=1229

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsMFwCy2CpI&feature=player_embedded#at=27[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PQIFU5OFYs&feature=player_embedded[/youtube]

Lowered body............................

Spiike

I heard the rs10 rockslide has cheap parts, I can't remember what parts off hand that break first or anything, but just so your aware!

If i was going to buy a competition crawler I would go for the axial xr10

texx

Yes, it is better to do his little survey before buying.

cobra69

Well,...You can break most anything,I guess it depends on how you treat it.
I've been bashing mine since '09 & haven't broken anything yet.
It's still set up the way it came out of the box with the exception of a couple body changes.

Spiike

oh nice! I was just repeating other words of wisdom from the rccrawler.com forums and what they say about the rs10

*edit*

I broke my aluminum cv joint, made another one, and broke that one too, made another one, but this time i didn't use the 3/16th aluminum tubing, i used 7/32 and what i've done is filled it with jb weld, put jb weld on the axleand slid it on the axle, cleaned it up, now i have to wait 15 hours for it to cure, so just to be safe i'll wait 24 hours at least to make sure that it will be dry. I don't want to move it until it is done drying so i wait to install it.



will find out tomorow night how well it worked.

cobra69

[X(] wow,how are you breaking so many cv joints?

Spiike

playing with the truck
3000mah lasts this truck like 3-3.5 hours lasts me a couple days then i charge it up and i drive it up snowpiles and dig holes in the snow and gets stuck.. you know the basic stuff you do in the winter with a toy lol

cobra69

LOL....Well you should be a master CV builder by now lol

Spiike

finding stronger better ways that handles the torque

texx

Spiike .. Good job on the CV joint.

I hope these will work.

The Jackalope

My RS10-xt should get here next friday. I researched the weak points, and I also ordered 2 high torque metelgear servos, and metal gear sets for the diffs from the same company. And the XT versionhas allready ironed out the kinks the original had, after following what most ppl modded on them anyway. I'll swap the tires with the proline chisels I put on my NB.
I think it should be a good platform now to start. My imagination is running wild with modds, and I haven't even touched one yet.

Thanks for the pics guys. it helps give me an Idea what it might look like with the dropped jeep body.

K spike, you can have your thread back now!

Spiike

Yeah i also researched, and found that the xt version was much better and only a few dollars more, I wanted to buy one, but I seem to like the idea of scale, and building a truck/jeep with scale parts, winch and playin with the truck on a trail. so the scx-10 was of course mentioned due to my wanting to build scale stuff vs just climbing over big rocks. and here is my ultimate scx-10plan[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bGGF5UHOe8[/youtube]

HOWEVER!!!!! that being said, my second Hobby Grade RC would definitally no doubt in my mind would have to be a XR10 competition crawler!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T54JE5cqfbw[/youtube]

Oh and guys, my electronics on my NB are going haywire! they still work, for a brief few moments, but then the truck literally takes off on me! just goes forward and top speed. i have to catch up with it and turn it off. but turning the transmitter off doesn't stop the truck neither. there is literally no fail safe on these NB trucks. I have spare electronics, but they don't work neither. I have not taken it out to look more closely at it, nor have i tried new batteries in the transmitter yet. what do you guys think???

*edit*

and update, the CV joints with JB weld broke, like butter... literally..

my LHS restocked their tubing, and i got the right size, and fixed the cv joints today. then i got sad when my electronics kept going haywire..

if I can't get the elctronics working in this jeep it will be put on the shelf till after i buy my scx10

texx

Spiike..

The work you did on your crawler to give you a great experience.

Now, it would be wise to go to HG with your SCX-10.

But, to have fun sometimes with RC / TOY can be fun anyway.



################################################## ##########

http://www.amazon.com/Scorpion-AX10-...ref=pd_sbs_t_1

List Price: $485.00
Price: $277.78
You Save: $207.22 (43%)

Spiike

I'm not giving up that easy on my NB Jeep!

If I can not get the electronics working, and after i purchase a better receiver and transmitter for my scx10, i'll be using the 2 channel axial transmitter and receiver to get the jeep running again. EVEN IF i have to purchase MOA axles to replace the NB axles.

I tried all 4 channels on my jeep electronics, none of the channels work, as soon as i hit the forward or reverse, the truck goes full reverse or full forward, and i have to catch up to the truck to turn it off. anyone else experience this?

The Jackalope

The transmitter I bought off of "Mud Puppy" seems to do that if I turn it on. But my original transmitter works fine, so I never bothered to troubleshoot it. Mind you, the truck stopped after I turned the Tx off. After I cleaned up my wiring, and took out the crimped connectors in favour of direct solder, my Glitching completely went away. That would be a place to start looking.

I haven't had the same issues as you with my newbright axles. I was planning on building my "hobby grade" elecs and chassis around the stock NB moa's, so I could still call it a toy grade abomination. I wonder how the axles like water? I want to use waterproof box for my battery and elecs in my chassis build.

Spiike

sounds like a good idea, thats what i was going to do next, take the electronics apart and check all the wires

Spiike

So my electronics are laying all over my kitchen table right now. I took the stock new bright motors, and wired them to the electronics, I got the same problem. So that being said, the wires are not the problem, because the stock motors still have the wires attatched and was easy as pulling the plugs and plugging the stock ones back in. servo doesn't do anything, even unplugged it and still same result, i know its not the transmitter, cause the transmitter could sit there off, or without batteries, and the electronics still go haywire, sometimes takes 5 seconds to 1 minute, and the truck goes full throttle without the transmitter even on. regardless. I inspected the electronics and came up empty. I can't seem to figure it out! Theres no wires touching, antenna looks good, capacitors and resisters and other electronic stuff on the board looks great and brand new! well its only 2 months old, but they smell ok, they don't smell burnt.

I'm stuck, and I think my NB might just be put on the shelf till I can get the right parts and convert it to hobby grade electronics...

SO that being said, I know cobra69 did the HG conversion. Keeping the stock motors, is there anything I should know about wiring the NB MOA motors to HG electronics? do I need anything specific? do i wire both motors into 1 connection?

for example if I've got the 2 channel axial electronics, the ax-1 ar-1 ae-1 combo, it was built for a single motor in the scx10 can it easily run dual motors?

The Jackalope

from my understanding, the hobby grade stuff is able to crank out more amps when called for, so they should have no problem wired to 2 of your stock motors. Even your upgrade motors should work, in both parallel and series wiring. I've heard of guys running 2 motors on the axial, both mounted INSIDE the chassis with drive shafts to get a "DIG".

As with anything, monitor the esc for overheating afterwards just to be sure. but it shouldn't be a problem till you start getting into high draw, 540 size, etc, motors.

Spiike

<pre style="font-family: 'QuickType Mono', monaco, 'monotype.com,', 'courier new', courier; ">

SPECS: Input Voltage: 5-10 cell-2VDC/Cell
Dimensions: 1.4 x 1.3 x 1.2" (34.8 x 33.5 x 30mm)
Weight: 1.9oz (53g)
Motor: 15T or greater
On-Resistance-Forward FET: 0.0025ohms
On-Resistance-Reverse FET: 0.005ohms
Rated/Peak Current-Forward: 60A/150A

Rated/Peak Current-Reverse: 35A/75A
Braking Current: 150A
BEC Voltage/A: DC 5V/1A
PWM Frequency: 1K Hertz

</pre>
i got 8cell nicd batteries, check.

The 280 motor specifications say this.. little unsure lol half an amp? and the esc runs to a maximum of 150?

Current @ Max. Efficiency (A)

0.57

The Jackalope

thats max efficiency.    The max amp draw at motor "stall"  is way higher,   but I dout they will list that number

Just for example,  i just did some quick and UNRELIABLE research a moment ago. 
a certain "lathe 55t" crawler motor ran at no load at .66A,    torque tested at 4.9oz/in@10A ,   and at stall was drawing 90A.

I have no idea how that relates to our motors,   I just found it very interesting.