The Collector1

My Feedback: (2)

Tires/Rims http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXWVV5&P=K
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXNHW8&P=K

Steering servo http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXUZ89&P=K
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXDWF8&P=K

These are some examples as for the brake kit it is on ebay, just type in nitrage and you should get about 3 pages

coalminer

Glad to hear you got the tuning sorted now Johann, do keep an eye on the temperature of the engine though, its the rear bearings that suffer and can come apart with catastrophic results, also secret sg is right about never leaning off mixtures on a cold day, as the air temperature gets colder it gets denser which means more oxygen, to compensate you need more fuel to keep the mixture % the same.
Just out of interest, has any one else had the problem of the mixture leaning off as the tank level decreases ?

I have just received a new set of wheels and fitted them , they are HPI trophy 4.6 wheels n tyres, I have the maximizer 17mm adapters, but these are a composite material, how ever collector has used these and says they are fine, but I did manage to get a set of alloy adapters for the HPI Savage and these fitted fine.The new wheels have shaved half a pound off the weight, the tyres are slightly larger in diameter and are quite a bit slimmer, I have not had chance to run yet , so can not comment on the performance.

BTW secretsg, thanks for mentioning about the McCoy plug, I have ordered one to try.

secretsg

No problem. If you are talking about a hissing sound it is normal. It's just the gas/pressure in the fuel system.

As for glow plugs, without going into some complicated explanation, the length effects where the detonation occurs in the chamber. It's best to stick to the manufacturer's plug length. The timing of the engine can be altered by using different heat range plugs. If you need more information on the stock engine just look up OFNA/Force 32.

The mid tank lean problem is common on many setups. I use one of these on exhaust line. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEYG3&P=7

Removing the stone filter inside, and it helps equalize the pressure.

N3zor

hey,
what set of the following is best for my nitrage, im gona be racing it on hard surfaces eg: tar or concrete, and i need the car to be able to do some drifts, i recognized that with the stock tires im facing excessive grip and with top speed the nitrage barely turns. I guess all spiked tires will have the same uber grip. btw does anyone of you guys know the top speed of nitrage with stock 1st gear and what is the improvement with the 2 gear set ?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZHV4&P=K

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKKF5&P=K

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHMH5&P=K

The Collector1

My Feedback: (2)

All three are for onroad cars so the diameter is alot smaller, too small for this truck. If you want street with a tread pattern get the Phaltlines http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXNHW8&P=K.

As for turning, it really doesnt turn that well, Ive read about people modding the steering to get it to work better, I just accepted it as is.....

I wonder if the 801XT parts fit Im just too lazy to take mine apart[&:]

Ive never put a radar to it but it is alot faster with the 2spd

secretsg

If you are racing on concrete just get proline road rage 3.2s. As for the two speed, it takes away th center diff and effects handling. I never bothered with it.

osceolaflyer

Seeing that the price of the Jammin JP-4 is 3 times the cost of the Ofna Mutilator exhaust, can someone explain to me just what does the JP-4 do that the Mutilator pipe won't?  Is it worth the money. or should I just stick with the stock Nitrage pipe or change to the Mutilator?

bclong211

Just ran accross what looks like a killer deal on a new Nitrage. Anyone here know of any reason it wont make a fun basher and backyard truggy?

The Collector1

My Feedback: (2)

I your going to use it as a basher or fun then go for it, if your trying to race on a track it isnt great in the steering department, parts are availible at Tamiya USA, Ebay and a few others

mychales

Good day, i just start my Tamiya nitrage 5.2 and i hear a loud click when i shut off the engine, so i started it back and i heard the click at the start and again with i shut off..any thoughts

mychales

i hear a sound of a click with i start and stop my tamiya nitrage

bclong211

Thanks for the info. I just ordered it today and was curious what kind of top speeds most are getting and are there any of you running larger truck tires like 40 series on their nitrage? Some of the steering issues i have read about- do they seem to be from a weak steering servo? if so that seems like an easy fix to throw in a 150 oz torque servo right? I have a Mayhem that i have converted to a truggy and it had some steering issues with the stock z590 servo. Of course it wasn't made to turn a set of 40 series crimefighters either! I am hoping this nitrage will perform like that mayhem has. If so it will be well worth the money. Has anyone toyed around with different diff oil weights in the front to increase steering control?

coalminer

The "click" that you hear is nothing to worry about, its normal. On the end of the crankshaft of the engine, where the conrod is attached,there is a pin that is sprung loaded, this is the starter pin which is driven by the starter plate from the rotostart assembly. When the engine is running the starter pin is not engaged with the starter plate, when the engine shuts off and comes to a halt, the pin engages with the starter plate and this is the "click" that you hear.

pauly187

i have a quick question
which would you chose and do you think is better for some light bashing
nitrage or rustler?

kobel1up

This is my first post here at the forum, I have had the nitrage for about 3 years.  I will say that it is very durable, the only thing that I have need to replace was the fuel tank, I slammed into a rock at full speed.  I bought a new one, actually 2 just in case.  I installed one and broke it after a bad landing from a large jump.  25 ft fall   I found out that I over tightened the fuel tank and that is why I broke it.  So if you want to know how durable it is, I have ramped it around the skateboard park, bad falls on concrete and hitting them at full speed after some miss judgment on my part.  I also broke a lower control arm, but I also did that on my revo doing the same stuff.  If you dont buy a nitrage, get a revo other wise you are wasting money.  I saw a nitrage on ebay for 230, not bad I almost bought another one.

Process Colors

First time posting... Have had Nitrage about a month. I bought some wheels from JConcepts and stumbled into this 17mm hub problem. Can someone post a link for an adapter they know to work? I've searched the forum (and some others) and have seen people mentioning adapters, but never verifying a specific brand/model that work. Any response is much appreciated.

secretsg

Only the savage X 17mm hex (with a washer from hw store) or maximizer savage composite adapters will work.

caylen17

My Feedback: (2)

Where can I get an engine rebuild kit?

coalminer

Hi Caylen 17
At one time there seemed to be an abundance of engine spares for this model, but now there ain't, not unless you want to pay silly prices for them. What exactly is damaged in your engine ??. If the piston and liner are no good, then chances are the crank will be badly scored too and dont forget the crank bearings, yep the total price is adding up now hey ?.

Thats why sometimes you are as well just buying a complete new motor if you cant get the spares at a cheap price. have a look on ebay for an OFNA 32 or Force 32 engine, you may be surprised how many are available from USA sellers, We in England get stung with import tax when buying USA goods, but for you ....well dip ya bread, theres loads of em avalable to you at a good price. If you still insist on a rebuild, then dont do it by half, ensure you renew all the bad bits in your motor, especially the bearings, the bearings to buy here are very expensive, but I found a company in California called VXB bearings and they can supply good quality bearings for the 5.2 engine at a few dollars, I have used them several times and its good stuff.As for the Piston and liner, well good luck, if you find a cheap site for em please let me know.

Regards
Coalminer

caylen17

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the reply coalminer! Your right, the bottom end is tighter than it should be in between strokes. It's my friends truck and the day it quit he ran it in a dirt parking lot without the air filter. I will advise him to look for a new engine. Thanks for the help!

kobel1up

It may almost be cheaper to sell the truck and buy a new one.  http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-43532-Nit...item19c3c4121a

for this price it would be a no brainer for me.

secretsg

OFN52295 - Force 32 P/S set is what you need.

mychales

thank you man i love this truggy just finish the front brake and the stabilizer set taking it out this evening plus i did some mods on the battery pack to make it a bit more weather proof...thank again

mychales

where do you run your car in brooklyn? am looking into build a off road track in the bronx near city island.

Atomika

New Nitrage owner here. Had this thing for 4 days now. Took it out to the track twice. This thing is the shiznittle bam snip snap sack! Starts up great and is super snappy. The only problem I've been running into is occasionally I will land hard and it kills it. Is this a tuning issue? how do I fix it? Guy at the track said he thought I was bottoming out and catching the flywheel on the ground.

A few other questions:

I had seen some other threads on other sites pertaining to weak spur gears. Is this some thing that only happened with the early models or is it still an issue?

Its says not to use NiMh Batteries in it. WHY?

Is it advisable to cut the hole in the windshield?

and finally (for now) is it worth while to get the stabilizer hop-up?