MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I have both : with the Engel super silence 32*19 2bl they have great performance, with the 215 rpm = +- 4600, with the 250 = +5100, so I think the power from the 150 (may-be more ? ) I like more the sound from the 250 because he's more tuned, the 215 turns less 'nervous'. But if you don't need the maximum power the 215 is also good and cheaper.
Koen
Koen
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Thank you for your responses...
I picked up a 215cc Moki...New..
I don't have time to build (I have a 6-year old son, who is very active and wants me being part of everything)
and will most likely end up purchasing a ARF....
Looking at a Yak54-or yak 55. TOC, Pilot, 40%. or B.Hemple's yak55..
I might be concerned about going with the TOC 40% yak, as I heard they build heavy...but need the nose weight...
I could use the 250cc Moki for this, but like I said, I couldn't pass up what I paid...
I will be doing aerobatics and not 3d....
I may go for the CARF's corsair, or Thunderbolt....
I am not worried about the 215cc for those, and it will have PLENTY of power for either of the two..
I know that the CARF Sukhoi, and Yaks would be great for it, but not sure if I want to spend that much money for that performance, only to fly it scale...
THose are meant for more....
I think somewhere in the manual it states that the plane will wreck if you go full power when level....?? Will have to check manual...
I picked up a 215cc Moki...New..
I don't have time to build (I have a 6-year old son, who is very active and wants me being part of everything)
and will most likely end up purchasing a ARF....
Looking at a Yak54-or yak 55. TOC, Pilot, 40%. or B.Hemple's yak55..
I might be concerned about going with the TOC 40% yak, as I heard they build heavy...but need the nose weight...
I could use the 250cc Moki for this, but like I said, I couldn't pass up what I paid...
I will be doing aerobatics and not 3d....
I may go for the CARF's corsair, or Thunderbolt....
I am not worried about the 215cc for those, and it will have PLENTY of power for either of the two..
I know that the CARF Sukhoi, and Yaks would be great for it, but not sure if I want to spend that much money for that performance, only to fly it scale...
THose are meant for more....
I think somewhere in the manual it states that the plane will wreck if you go full power when level....?? Will have to check manual...
#1103
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I can't speak for the Carf P-47, but the Moki 250 flies my Carf Corsair fast at around half throttle. And the manual states that you should not exceed 125 mph in flight or the Corsair could destroy itself.
#1104
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
OK........Who among us has the skill to manufacture an electric remote starter system for our Moki radials???? I can picture a shaft engaging a gear behind the prop driver. I WANT ONE!!!!!!!!! It would increase the cool factor by 1000!!!
Mitch
Mitch
#1105
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: kochj
Thank you for your responses...
I picked up a 215cc Moki...New..
It was one of those, once in a long while deals, I couldn't pass up...
I don't have time to build (I have a 6-year old son, who is very active and wants me being part of everything)
and will most likely end up purchasing a ARF....
Looking at a Yak54-or yak 55. TOC, Pilot, 40%. or B.Hemple's yak55..
I might be concerned about going with the TOC 40% yak, as I heard they build heavy...but need the nose weight...
I could use the 250cc Moki for this, but like I said, I couldn't pass up what I paid...
I will be doing aerobatics and not 3d....
I may go for the CARF's corsair, or Thunderbolt....
I am not worried about the 215cc for those, and it will have PLENTY of power for either of the two..
I know that the CARF Sukhoi, and Yaks would be great for it, but not sure if I want to spend that much money for that performance, only to fly it scale...
THose are meant for more....
I think somewhere in the manual it states that the plane will wreck if you go full power when level....?? Will have to check manual...
Thank you for your responses...
I picked up a 215cc Moki...New..
It was one of those, once in a long while deals, I couldn't pass up...
I don't have time to build (I have a 6-year old son, who is very active and wants me being part of everything)
and will most likely end up purchasing a ARF....
Looking at a Yak54-or yak 55. TOC, Pilot, 40%. or B.Hemple's yak55..
I might be concerned about going with the TOC 40% yak, as I heard they build heavy...but need the nose weight...
I could use the 250cc Moki for this, but like I said, I couldn't pass up what I paid...
I will be doing aerobatics and not 3d....
I may go for the CARF's corsair, or Thunderbolt....
I am not worried about the 215cc for those, and it will have PLENTY of power for either of the two..
I know that the CARF Sukhoi, and Yaks would be great for it, but not sure if I want to spend that much money for that performance, only to fly it scale...
THose are meant for more....
I think somewhere in the manual it states that the plane will wreck if you go full power when level....?? Will have to check manual...
Jason
#1106
Thread Starter
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Mitch,
You are right on with that idea! I would love to have an onboard starter for a couple of these models. Very cool and in some case would be sooooo handy. We need and engineer and manufacurer to step up. Who can help us here?
Scott
You are right on with that idea! I would love to have an onboard starter for a couple of these models. Very cool and in some case would be sooooo handy. We need and engineer and manufacurer to step up. Who can help us here?
Scott
#1107
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
If Detlef Kunkel on RCSB can't do it, nobody can.... Is there any shaft out the back of the engine? One-way clutch bearings are probably the most reliable way to work momentary engagement. You can always use the 1700 AHr car battery as ballast!!
Scot
Scot
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I am seriously interested in a starting system for the Mokis.. I have kicked some ideas around about things like that but until I have an engine on hand.. and the time to be AT the shop which is 200 miles away for me.. I cant work anything out.. If someone were to put something together I would certainly be interested in one..
#1111
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: Scott Prossen
Mitch,
You are right on with that idea! I would love to have an onboard starter for a couple of these models. Very cool and in some case would be sooooo handy. We need and engineer and manufacurer to step up. Who can help us here?
Scott
Mitch,
You are right on with that idea! I would love to have an onboard starter for a couple of these models. Very cool and in some case would be sooooo handy. We need and engineer and manufacurer to step up. Who can help us here?
Scott
#1112
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
we played with a starter off of an electric start weedeater. wasn't enough power to turn a 150 without flipping the prop to get it turning over, then it would spin it. it looked horrible mounted up front. there were more things to try like more voltage, gear diameter etc. but we scratched it. I need to finish airplanes rather than tinker with this. It can be done!!
#1113
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
okay guys...
I am kicking around the idea of a couple of planes for the Moki 215cc:
Pilot-rc 40% or 46% Carbon Fiber Yak54...
46%
Wingspan: 148 in(3.75M)
Wing Area: 4237sq in(27340sq cm)
Fuselage length: 131 in(3.34M)
Weight: 63 lbs (28.7kg) with 3W275 engine
Engine: 275~340cc
40%
Wingspan:129 in(3.28M)
Wing Area: 3242 sq in(20920sq cm)
Fuselage length: 114 in(2.91M)
Weight:
37-42lbs
Engine:
180~210CC
It looks like the 46% would be too heavy for the 215 moki radial...
It doesn't fit the motor recomendations of a 2-stroke twin, let alone a 4-stroke radial.
I am kicking around the idea of a couple of planes for the Moki 215cc:
Pilot-rc 40% or 46% Carbon Fiber Yak54...
46%
Wingspan: 148 in(3.75M)
Wing Area: 4237sq in(27340sq cm)
Fuselage length: 131 in(3.34M)
Weight: 63 lbs (28.7kg) with 3W275 engine
Engine: 275~340cc
40%
Wingspan:129 in(3.28M)
Wing Area: 3242 sq in(20920sq cm)
Fuselage length: 114 in(2.91M)
Weight:
37-42lbs
Engine:
180~210CC
It looks like the 46% would be too heavy for the 215 moki radial...
It doesn't fit the motor recomendations of a 2-stroke twin, let alone a 4-stroke radial.
#1114
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Looking for an airplane for a Moki 150 ????
I am selling a 1/4 scale Stearman partially completed kit. It is the perfect size for the Moki150. If you are interested, here is my RCU ad:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=730813
I am selling a 1/4 scale Stearman partially completed kit. It is the perfect size for the Moki150. If you are interested, here is my RCU ad:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=730813
#1115
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Back on page 35 there was some discussion about ceramic coating for the exhaust. I have a new Moki 250 that will be used in a CARF P-47. It looks like it could help with heat buildup within the cowl and may have some positive performance traits, but can it hurt the engine?
I am thinking about having the exhaust ring done before sending the plane to tigermodels.net for the build.
I am thinking about having the exhaust ring done before sending the plane to tigermodels.net for the build.
#1116
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
The exhuast ring comeswith the engine...
Perhaps you are wantine a FRONT mounted exhuast ring?
You can always do ducting to get excess heat out....??
Perhaps you are wantine a FRONT mounted exhuast ring?
You can always do ducting to get excess heat out....??
#1117
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Question......Does a Turbinator help enough to pick one up?? 90$ from scale-aero....??
Is this mounted on the outside or inside the engine??
Is this mounted on the outside or inside the engine??
#1118
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: kochj
The exhuast ring comeswith the engine...
The exhuast ring comeswith the engine...
#1119
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Waxman, Kochj,
I'm the guy who wrapped the exhaust ring on page 35. I am going to buy two more radials this season and plan to have the exhaust rings ceramic coated (inside & out). The glass wrap that I used from J.C. Whitney lowered the incowl temperature about 40-45 deg. F., which was enough to keep the operating CHT temperatures to about 230 or lower. It also made wonderful smoke. I estimate that it raised the exhaust ring temperature about 100 deg F. I can't honestly say that I recognized any significant improvement in performance. I was just happy to improve the CHT.
I use an Eagle Tree onboard data system to monitor operating temperatures on at least two cylinders. Eagle Tree has the hardware to monitor the EGT, but I haven't incorporated it.
Incorporating baffles between the cylinders will improve cylinder head airflow, but significantly reduce the airflow across the exhaust ring. Without additional thermal protection, the exhaust ring radient heating rises dramatically. I have heard people comment that they have experience temperatures high enough to make the ring glow. By using additional thermal insulation, either ceramic and/or glass wrap, the cylinder baffling can be used without excessive incowl temerature increases.
I plan to baffle my 250 and start collecting some flight data as soon as the weather cooperates. I am targeting my CHT at between 185 to 210 deg. F for all five cylinders. If the coolest cylinder (#3 counterclockwise) gets below 185 deg. F it will start to drop out and foul.
Opinions are worth about what you pay for them, but hard data can be quite valuable. I am constantly amazed that people spend large sums of money for these engines and don't spend less then $200 for real time inflight engine data. I have all my large engines instrumented and use the data to accurately tune the engines. There is a significant difference between static and inflight data. I constantly hear people say "My engine runs great!!" and I ususally say "Oh really, how do you know?".
I would also highly recommend an APS fuel pump. The onboard pulse system (tube from forward air pump to carb) is very vulnerable to dirt or grease. If there is any interruption of the pulse, the engine immediately goes lean and the operating temperatures begin to rise. The turbulator has reported improvements in cylinder performance uniformity, but I have no first hand experience. The turbulator mounts between the carb and the engine case.
Good luck,
I'm the guy who wrapped the exhaust ring on page 35. I am going to buy two more radials this season and plan to have the exhaust rings ceramic coated (inside & out). The glass wrap that I used from J.C. Whitney lowered the incowl temperature about 40-45 deg. F., which was enough to keep the operating CHT temperatures to about 230 or lower. It also made wonderful smoke. I estimate that it raised the exhaust ring temperature about 100 deg F. I can't honestly say that I recognized any significant improvement in performance. I was just happy to improve the CHT.
I use an Eagle Tree onboard data system to monitor operating temperatures on at least two cylinders. Eagle Tree has the hardware to monitor the EGT, but I haven't incorporated it.
Incorporating baffles between the cylinders will improve cylinder head airflow, but significantly reduce the airflow across the exhaust ring. Without additional thermal protection, the exhaust ring radient heating rises dramatically. I have heard people comment that they have experience temperatures high enough to make the ring glow. By using additional thermal insulation, either ceramic and/or glass wrap, the cylinder baffling can be used without excessive incowl temerature increases.
I plan to baffle my 250 and start collecting some flight data as soon as the weather cooperates. I am targeting my CHT at between 185 to 210 deg. F for all five cylinders. If the coolest cylinder (#3 counterclockwise) gets below 185 deg. F it will start to drop out and foul.
Opinions are worth about what you pay for them, but hard data can be quite valuable. I am constantly amazed that people spend large sums of money for these engines and don't spend less then $200 for real time inflight engine data. I have all my large engines instrumented and use the data to accurately tune the engines. There is a significant difference between static and inflight data. I constantly hear people say "My engine runs great!!" and I ususally say "Oh really, how do you know?".
I would also highly recommend an APS fuel pump. The onboard pulse system (tube from forward air pump to carb) is very vulnerable to dirt or grease. If there is any interruption of the pulse, the engine immediately goes lean and the operating temperatures begin to rise. The turbulator has reported improvements in cylinder performance uniformity, but I have no first hand experience. The turbulator mounts between the carb and the engine case.
Good luck,
#1120
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Kochj,
I notice nobody has commented on your question about engine selection. Here's one opinion:
You're right about the 46% Yak 54. However, I don't think you're going to be happy with the 215 in the 40% either. The 250/215 have comperable performance to a 150 twin or even a 120 twin depending on the particular engine. The advantage of the radial is much higher torque at lower rpm. Consequently, the radials generally use much higher pitch props. For a 250 the optimum two blade prop seems to be a 32 X18.
If you are going to fly IMAC or 3D, you should probably consider 180 to 220 twins, which will produce much more raw power. Also, any reduction in airflow across the engine will be poorly tolerated by the radial. If I were considering something as large as 46%, I would give serious consideration to a 400 radial or 220+ twin.
I bought a 250 from a guy who flew it in a 33% Yak in IMAC and was very disappointed. I found out the hard way that he had also cooked the engine. The first year the internal ignition gave out ($450) and that three of the cylinders had below spec. (125 psi min.) compression. Needless to say I was thrilled.
If you are flying at sea level, performance is obviously best.
Sorry to dampen your dream, but I would get some other opinions before I would invest too heavily in your project.
I notice nobody has commented on your question about engine selection. Here's one opinion:
You're right about the 46% Yak 54. However, I don't think you're going to be happy with the 215 in the 40% either. The 250/215 have comperable performance to a 150 twin or even a 120 twin depending on the particular engine. The advantage of the radial is much higher torque at lower rpm. Consequently, the radials generally use much higher pitch props. For a 250 the optimum two blade prop seems to be a 32 X18.
If you are going to fly IMAC or 3D, you should probably consider 180 to 220 twins, which will produce much more raw power. Also, any reduction in airflow across the engine will be poorly tolerated by the radial. If I were considering something as large as 46%, I would give serious consideration to a 400 radial or 220+ twin.
I bought a 250 from a guy who flew it in a 33% Yak in IMAC and was very disappointed. I found out the hard way that he had also cooked the engine. The first year the internal ignition gave out ($450) and that three of the cylinders had below spec. (125 psi min.) compression. Needless to say I was thrilled.
If you are flying at sea level, performance is obviously best.
Sorry to dampen your dream, but I would get some other opinions before I would invest too heavily in your project.
#1121
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: germrb
Waxman, Kochj,
I'm the guy who wrapped the exhaust ring on page 35. I am going to buy two more radials this season and plan to have the exhaust rings ceramic coated (inside & out). The glass wrap that I used from J.C. Whitney lowered the incowl temperature about 40-45 deg. F., which was enough to keep the operating CHT temperatures to about 230 or lower. It also made wonderful smoke. I estimate that it raised the exhaust ring temperature about 100 deg F. I can't honestly say that I recognized any significant improvement in performance. I was just happy to improve the CHT.
I use an Eagle Tree onboard data system to monitor operating temperatures on at least two cylinders. Eagle Tree has the hardware to monitor the EGT, but I haven't incorporated it.
Incorporating baffles between the cylinders will improve cylinder head airflow, but significantly reduce the airflow across the exhaust ring. Without additional thermal protection, the exhaust ring radient heating rises dramatically. I have heard people comment that they have experience temperatures high enough to make the ring glow. By using additional thermal insulation, either ceramic and/or glass wrap, the cylinder baffling can be used without excessive incowl temerature increases.
I plan to baffle my 250 and start collecting some flight data as soon as the weather cooperates. I am targeting my CHT at between 185 to 210 deg. F for all five cylinders. If the coolest cylinder (#3 counterclockwise) gets below 185 deg. F it will start to drop out and foul.
Opinions are worth about what you pay for them, but hard data can be quite valuable. I am constantly amazed that people spend large sums of money for these engines and don't spend less then $200 for real time inflight engine data. I have all my large engines instrumented and use the data to accurately tune the engines. There is a significant difference between static and inflight data. I constantly hear people say "My engine runs great!!" and I ususally say "Oh really, how do you know?".
I would also highly recommend an APS fuel pump. The onboard pulse system (tube from forward air pump to carb) is very vulnerable to dirt or grease. If there is any interruption of the pulse, the engine immediately goes lean and the operating temperatures begin to rise. The turbulator has reported improvements in cylinder performance uniformity, but I have no first hand experience. The turbulator mounts between the carb and the engine case.
Good luck,
Waxman, Kochj,
I'm the guy who wrapped the exhaust ring on page 35. I am going to buy two more radials this season and plan to have the exhaust rings ceramic coated (inside & out). The glass wrap that I used from J.C. Whitney lowered the incowl temperature about 40-45 deg. F., which was enough to keep the operating CHT temperatures to about 230 or lower. It also made wonderful smoke. I estimate that it raised the exhaust ring temperature about 100 deg F. I can't honestly say that I recognized any significant improvement in performance. I was just happy to improve the CHT.
I use an Eagle Tree onboard data system to monitor operating temperatures on at least two cylinders. Eagle Tree has the hardware to monitor the EGT, but I haven't incorporated it.
Incorporating baffles between the cylinders will improve cylinder head airflow, but significantly reduce the airflow across the exhaust ring. Without additional thermal protection, the exhaust ring radient heating rises dramatically. I have heard people comment that they have experience temperatures high enough to make the ring glow. By using additional thermal insulation, either ceramic and/or glass wrap, the cylinder baffling can be used without excessive incowl temerature increases.
I plan to baffle my 250 and start collecting some flight data as soon as the weather cooperates. I am targeting my CHT at between 185 to 210 deg. F for all five cylinders. If the coolest cylinder (#3 counterclockwise) gets below 185 deg. F it will start to drop out and foul.
Opinions are worth about what you pay for them, but hard data can be quite valuable. I am constantly amazed that people spend large sums of money for these engines and don't spend less then $200 for real time inflight engine data. I have all my large engines instrumented and use the data to accurately tune the engines. There is a significant difference between static and inflight data. I constantly hear people say "My engine runs great!!" and I ususally say "Oh really, how do you know?".
I would also highly recommend an APS fuel pump. The onboard pulse system (tube from forward air pump to carb) is very vulnerable to dirt or grease. If there is any interruption of the pulse, the engine immediately goes lean and the operating temperatures begin to rise. The turbulator has reported improvements in cylinder performance uniformity, but I have no first hand experience. The turbulator mounts between the carb and the engine case.
Good luck,
Thank you for the information; I have the APS fuel pump for my P-47 project. I will take a look at the Eagle Tree equipment.
John
#1122
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: bcrc
Looking for an airplane for a Moki 150 ????
I am selling a 1/4 scale Stearman partially completed kit. It is the perfect size for the Moki150. If you are interested, here is my RCU ad:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=730813
Looking for an airplane for a Moki 150 ????
I am selling a 1/4 scale Stearman partially completed kit. It is the perfect size for the Moki150. If you are interested, here is my RCU ad:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=730813
Although a great aircraft, I have a Jack Strickland Stearman and the nose ring and firewall area is way to small for the MOKI 150. I tried this out, but the over hang of the MOKI is too great.
I will add, if someone has a small twin like a FUJI 86, Z-GT80, or even a large single like a Brison 5.8 they work great. I know of owners of this aircraft that run these engines on their Jack Strickland Stearmans fly great. I flew one years ago with a Brison 3.2/50 cc gas and it flew very scale. I am putting a 3W-70 on mine now.
#1123
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I have a Moki 150 and I worked this out. Of course you would have to move the firewall back and restructure the motor area, but then it would fit just fine. Obviously the firewall for the Moki 150 cannot be in the same place as where it would be for a typical single cylinder 2-cycle gas engine.
#1124
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: bcrc
I have a Moki 150 and I worked this out. Of course you would have to move the firewall back and restructure the motor area, but then it would fit just fine. Obviously the firewall for the Moki 150 cannot be in the same place as where it would be for a typical single cylinder 2-cycle gas engine.
I have a Moki 150 and I worked this out. Of course you would have to move the firewall back and restructure the motor area, but then it would fit just fine. Obviously the firewall for the Moki 150 cannot be in the same place as where it would be for a typical single cylinder 2-cycle gas engine.
If so, does this allow the Powerplant to set inside of the diameter of the firewall as the full scale Stearman rested inside of the bowl?
Can you provide some drawings or dimensions? I would still like to fly a MOKI while I construct my Kellogg AD-5 and Z-Hellcat. I just did not want to buy and let my engine sit. This was recommended against in this thread. Something about allowing the warranty run out.
This would be one nice plane with a round engine.
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
hi guys
ok i need counciling ,i had my brand new moki 150 delivered early part of last week used a solo 3 blade prop and put in my ziroli hellcat which before that had a zenoha 62 absolute faultless running!!!!! heres the bad bit and you probaly no what im going too say [:@] ground ran it seemed a little sluggish after the first flight and about 1000 flicks of the prop so slight adjustment of the high run needle oh on the first flight if seemed a little hot , second flight after another hour of trying too start it engine packs up fuselage not a mark wings are firewood what a b****d, now what i want too know is this WHY are they so hard too start and for 150cc boy they seem sluggish so now im making a new wing but i think im going too sell the 150 and go back too the zenoha, but i will say this they sound fantastic but the risks and hard labour starting out weighs this any thoughts would be great thanks for all your time,
regards and happy landings
ok i need counciling ,i had my brand new moki 150 delivered early part of last week used a solo 3 blade prop and put in my ziroli hellcat which before that had a zenoha 62 absolute faultless running!!!!! heres the bad bit and you probaly no what im going too say [:@] ground ran it seemed a little sluggish after the first flight and about 1000 flicks of the prop so slight adjustment of the high run needle oh on the first flight if seemed a little hot , second flight after another hour of trying too start it engine packs up fuselage not a mark wings are firewood what a b****d, now what i want too know is this WHY are they so hard too start and for 150cc boy they seem sluggish so now im making a new wing but i think im going too sell the 150 and go back too the zenoha, but i will say this they sound fantastic but the risks and hard labour starting out weighs this any thoughts would be great thanks for all your time,
regards and happy landings