The_Stuff

So i just got this given to me. guy said it wouldnt work. doesnt know whats wrong. Well within 5 seconds i could tell!

Boat


Inside look


Little hard to see from the picture but the shaft where the motor connects is "drilled" right off!!

So can anyone tell me how to fix it? how good were these boats? im a beginner to boats lol

Dan S

are you talking about the collet? (see pic).

they are still good boats.

you can get the part from Great hobby in Edmonton
http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=AQUB7886
or
Tower hobby in the USA
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMWA8&P=ML

Dan.

The_Stuff

yes that part. and D'OH!!! I was in EDMONTON YESTERDAY!!! [:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@]


also the shaft is broken to.

Dan S

you can get the cable from the same place,

great hobbies: http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=AQUB7883

Tower: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7883&search=Go

make sure you leave a gap of 4 to 5mm between the drive dog and the strut, if you don't you will break another cable (page 10 in the manual).

get the manual for the boat here if you don't have it: http://manuals.hobbico.com/aqu/aqub23-manual.pdf

Dan.

The_Stuff

Thanks Dan! didnt even know it was a cable!! I have been gone for a few days since i got it so i havent even looked at it!

siberianhusky

Check out kinetic.com there is a section for SV27 upgrades, Good guy to deal with and might as well upgrade if you have to replace.
3 piece collet, add a thrust washer to go between the collet and motor, and trim tab adjusters if you don't have them installed yet. Only upgrades needed for a great running boat.
Also not a bad idea to use an aluminum cooler for the motor, silicon one has been known to leak.

advanced builder

If that coupler & the cable got [spun out } or motor spinning with the cable not spinning then you need to replace the cable as well. The new coupler won't tighten up on that old cable. Just as well buy 2 coupler they do wear-out or snap. the inside piece.
PS cable size comes in 4 sizes .125.150 .187 .250 generally speaking Some use wire drive smaller dia The shaft 1/8 " 3/16 1/4 dia FYI

The_Stuff

Fast forward a few months.. got the parts after the hobby company put them in the mail.. without an address.. but now i have them. took the boat apart today to get at the cable etc, and the copper tube i find is bent.. frick..

cowana

You should be able to bend that back.

The cable is flexible, so it won't mind a slight bend in the tube. Obviously the greater the bend, the more power is wasted, but if you un-bend it by hand as best you can, it'll work just fine.

Andrew

The_Stuff

i still have no clue how such a bend got in there to begin with! no sign of damage on the rear or inside!

ill try my best. doesnt look like there is a replacement part for it.

TCHedOff

You dont have to buy a "replacement"; you can just make your own; Heat will soften the brass making it easier to bend; when making a new one, I use a propane torch; but as yours is in the boat that doesnt seem a good option.

It would also be a good idea to your flexshaft inserted into the brass tube when you're going to straighten the brass tubing to help make sure your dont crush/flatten things. You may end up needing to add some epoxy where the tube enters the bulk head (the watertight seal there might crack some with you pushing on things).

The_Stuff

so you guys think i can pull it out somehow and stick some sort of antler down there and then heat her up good and get it straight again?

Dan S

actually the bend is supposed to be there, its just facing the wrong direction.
look at the manual on page 7, last pic. if you can't see it good enough, check the manual online and you will see what I mean.
it looks like the stuffing tube has turned 90 degrees.

http://manuals.hobbico.com/aqu/aqub23-manual.pdf

Dan.

The_Stuff

AH! i see it now! ya i will need to figure out how to correct that!

Stinger9d9

The best way to correct this would be to pull the stuffing tube (the brass tube) out of the boat and to adjust the bend and reinstall it with some new epoxy. The original epoxy is a bit brittle so it can be removed without breaking anything if you are careful.

First off, remove the strut (the blue aluminum guide bolted to the back of the boat that the stuffing tube runs though), then can pry the front wooden tube guide (at the front of the battery tray). Then apply some firm pressure side to side on the stuffing tube - then once it breaks free you should be able to pull it out from the inside of the boat.

Once you adjust the tube (or make a new one), you can put the tube back in (make sure it protrudes out the back of the hull the same length as it did before your removed it) and fix it in place with epoxy.

captncrunch1234

This is a very common problem. All you need to do is rotate the tube back till it is inline with the motor. Then reglue at the transom and the wood washer up front. Adjust it so the flex slides right into the collet. Might have to adjust the motor mount to get it perfect.