darylm44

I opened my new 3D Hobby Shop 57" Extra yesterday and to be truthful I am seriously disappointed. It had the worst covering job that has come with a ARF since I started building. After several hours with my heat gun, iron, and a straight pin, I have it looking just OK. The landing gear holes were filled with glue and so far 2 of the slots for the control horns had to have glue cleaned out. I paid just under $400 to get this plane delivered to Alaska. I really am not trying to bash 3D Hobby Shop since I know stuff happens and have several friends that have built their planes without problems. It just seems like none of these kits are perfect all the time.

I have not had any yellowing problem with my Funtana. Wish we had enough sun this time of year for that to be a problem. [&o][&o] Other than that my Funtana is doing well with my $139 RCG 26cc on the nose. It took a bit to break in the engine but it continues to get stronger.

Slow and Steady

Thats to bad about the quality. You may be right about the hit and miss. Some friends that fly the same planes as me have said they had no trouble, while others mention different issues. These overseas factories appear far from perfect, to say the least.

Slow and Steady

Yesterday I snapped off one elevator while taking the plane out of my car. Wasn't much of an impact and so I put some pressure on the other elevator and it readily snapped. Changed both to Robart pin hinges.

Found a quick solution for removal of yellowed covering!! While installng the new hinges I applied painters tape to hold the elevator fully extended during taping the hinge line. When I removed the tape, the yellow decal came off with it, while the painted portion remained. Took about an hour and a half, but by applying blue painter tape to the yellowed areas, using an 8" length, it came off without any great effort and the yellow decal was completely removed. I kept the tape away from the red and black areas and they are mostly intact. In other words, I would apply the tape along the edge of the colored portion so that it would bond to the adjacent yellow area. Plane looks new again!! Can't believe how well it worked. Anyone interested may wish to use the same type of 3M tape. 3M sells two types, one for delecate surfaces and one for regular. I used the delecate. Just apply it to an edge location to start and it should come right off. On interior locations (surrouded by red or black) I lightly scored the inner edge, which allowed it to break free of the colored portion. For what its worth, living in South Florida, and the Funtana being part of their first run, the yellow film may have been completely degraded, which may have contributed to its easy removal.

ameyam

If the graphics are printed between the film (that is turning yellow) and the white ultracote, the same will also start coming off with exposure to fuel. Then the natural ageing of the covering would have contributed to the ease of removal.

Mine is still in the box, I plan to apply some clear monokote paint all over before I assemble. That will also ensure that the covering will not come off over time and with exposure to fuel though it may not do anything to the yellowing problem. We should live with it till the covering comes off with age and then simply recover

Ameyam

Slow and Steady

I believe the yellowed film is part of the application process of the "paint" design. However, in the area of the paint, the bond is still very strong and will likely remain in tact. The yellowing film is very thin and is readily removed, once it has met a certain level of degratation. Interestingly, I had some of the clear portion come off during the initial build, when it was still clear and new. Either way, good luck, I flew 4 flights today and remain a big fan of this plane. With a 30 cc gasser it is by far the best plane I have owned. Good Luck!! By the way, one of our local flyers installed a DLE 20 on the Funtana and feels it is a better 3D performer due to the lower weight.

I am wondering if this thread is dead? I thought last nights post would have more owners responding??

ameyam

The thread isint dead. Not every post requires a response. And I responded, didnt I?

Anyway, as I understand, the clear film is there to prevent the graphics being exposed to the fuel, so I was referring to the paint coming off as well once the clear yellowing film is gone

I have a 120AX for this airplane and it should have more than sufficient power for 3D even after the extensive strengthening I am going to do. The DLE20 is very enticing but for two things, firstly I dont have access to gas (as yet) and secondly, its is much heavier than the 120 once you add the ignition system and its battery

Ameyam

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I don't think the string's dead either. I just think there isn't that much flying going on this time of year. A Funtana on skis is not my cup of tea?

I'm a fan of this plane as well. If they do something about the yellowing sometime in the future I'll have another in my stable - if for no other reason than to try that DLE 20 out in it. It has nearly the same power as the RCGF 26 I had on mine, but at 8oz lighter, that puts it under 10lbs. pretty easily. THAT sounds like fun.... even if it had a little less spectacular exit from hover than a 26 or 30?

Slow and Steady

Wasn't proposing or mourning the death of this thread, it was just that there hasn't been much activity in weeks, and there still is fairly regular activity on the Revolver 70 build thread. Although that thread has slowed down to. I forget South Florida weather is fairly unique in offering year round flying, unlke many other areas. Maybe I have been hear to long, but I definitely don't miss the oportunity to use landing gear ski's.

Regarding the weight issue, when I flew with a 120 AX and Bisson pitts muffler, I had to add 6 oz of weight in the nose. I could have lessened the dead weight by moving the battery to the cowl area, but I like to be able to change it out so I can keep flying. One issue with this plane is the lack of a pull pull alternate, which would accomodate the lighter engine. My Syssa 30 didn't require any additional weight and will do unlimited vertical like a rocket.

I believe the yellow film remains on the paint scheme, I only removed the clear film located over the white ultra cote. You will notice there is no excess film or yellowing over the rudder, which leads me to believe the painted area will be fine with the glow. The hour and a half I invested was much easier than recovering and maintains the original appearance, which I like. Just my 2 cents.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Let's bump this thread back to life please! I got this plane 2nd hand at 1/2 price, and I am very excited to fly it with a DLE 20cc

So some questions for owners who have built/flown it:

1. Is there really an issue with CG? I tend to like aft CG where the model flies inverted hands off and does a very flat and shallow inverted flat spin and steady hover, what's the best CG for this?

2. The DLE 20 is pretty light (~830 grams) and I intended to use a smaller 9 oz. tank than the stock 17 oz., will that mean I need nose weight to get the right CG?

3. Have people modded the rudder to pull-pull instead of nose weight?

Some pics of progress so far, I like 3D models to be as light as possible so I replaced the heavy alum gear with nice light carbon fiber

Nick

JohnB96041

I have 2 of the Funtana 125's. One is using the Saito 1.25 engine and the other is using the SAP180H (30cc) gas engine. The Saito needed a little weight on the engine box to balance at the mid point. The 30cc did not need any weight added to balance at the mid point. Both are using the supplied fuel tank. The one with the Saito flys great but is a little slow on pull out from a hover. The 30cc jumps streight up and gains speed going vertical. The main thing to remember with the Funtana 125's is to keepl the flight speed DOWN. They are not really fast airplanes. The large control surfaces can tend to flutter if there is too much speed. I love my Funtanas. I have the S90, x100 and 2 of the 125's. I fly them all.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Run the CG where they say and you'll be fine for the test flights. Then you can mess with it? I believe some have gone the pull/pull route to meet C/G issues.

I would run the tank back against the wing tube to try and get it closer to your C/G - for less empty/full trim change. FWIW

Slow and Steady

I also fly the Syssa SAP 30cc gasser and agree with the vertical description, it is like a rocket. The DLE 20 is about 8 ounces lighter than the SAP 30 and changing the rear rudder servo to pull pull will help you avoid excess weight. The SAP required no nose weight, with the battery over the tank. I first flew mine with a OS 120 AX and it required 6 ounces in the nose, with the battery over the tank. A fellow at our field flies with a DLE 20 and likes its 3d capabilities, which he thinks is improved by the lower weight, versus the 30. I don't think he converted to pull pull. This plane with a neutral CG will flat spin really flat - inverted are even more flat than upright. Both are my favorite menuver - with this plane. Knife edge is also fun, but mine will pull to the gear if I don't manage/lower the throttle. More rudder - more pull. Love this plane, almost as much as my 50cc EF Yak 54, although it is collecting dust since I started flying the Yak - another great plane! The Yak's flat spins are nothing short of awsome, if thats the right word. Incidentally, at some point you may want to consider changing to Robart pin hinges on the rudder and elevators; my CAs eventually broke. Ailerons are still CA type. For reference, mine is a year and half old, having been bought when they first came out and it has alot of flights.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for all the feedback, I will test balance without any lead then if its too aft I will switch to the original fuel tank (which I guess will remain half-full after 10 min flight on the DLE 20).

Reinforcements: I glassed the firewall and tank area all the way to the gear mount. Any other areas that need glassing? (such as around the wing tube, formers and longerons where wing dowels attach)?

S&S, I will thoroughly check all hinges and replace if necessary

mbritt

Downthrust

My Feedback: (6)

I have a 110 in another plane with a Turnigy 100A ESC (3.1 oz). I'm using two 4S Turnigy 2650mAh batteries and getting an easy 6 minutes and can push 8 if I wanted to. The plane comes in at about 8.5 pounds. I think the difference in weight between the Flightmax 4000 and the 2650 is 13.4 oz for the 8S pack. This would bring the weight of the Funtana to just under 9 pounds. Can you tell me what your flight time is like with the 4000's? I was thinking about this plane for my current setup and if I can't get the weight down to under 9 lbs and get at least 6 minutes of flight time, I may have to consider another plane. The only reason I was considering it in the first place was because a Web site that sells the plane reports the empty weight to be 69 ounces (4.3 lbs) and my hardware would bring that up to 8.5 pounds, which is 175 Watts/pound. Sounds unrealistic from what you guys are reporting.

mbritt

Ya if you go electric it wont be that light. I have changed wheels, and just about everything else I can think of and mine is lighter than some of the other guys. So I dont beleive that 8.5 is doable unless I can run the smaller batteries. Now I get an easy 8+ on the 4000's but ive never taken them much more than 10. So I really dont know how long it could go. However if I had to do it over again i wouldnt buy another hanger 9 plane at all. I just recently got the Extra 300 from Extreme Flight and think its the best plane I have ever had as far as quality of the build and the service. I also have a slick from 3DHS and its a great plane but all of there planes have a glue in elevator and come with jinky chinese hardware. The EF planes have good hardware and IMHO believe I am going to stick with them for a while. With all that said I have this funtana 125 and I have been working on it for a while so I am going to try to get it flying the way I would like it, at least to do some descent 3D stuff. But if I had to do it all over again I wouldnt. Its not a bad plane if you could get it cheap, do the mods, keep your CG forward, and want to jump through the other problems you have seen on the forums. I hope that helps. Im going to take a look at my incedence and things tonight and see where they are sitting. I will post them and let you know what I find.

RACJ

How many watts are you getting on the 110 on 8S with 18x10?? I believe you could run a 19x8 and be safe amps wise and maybe get more thrust for 3D maneuvers. RACJ

Downthrust

My Feedback: (6)

Racj - My ground test reads about 1510 Watts on a Turnigy 18x8 wood prop at 7400 RPM's and just under 50 Amps (like 47 to 49) with the 2x4S 2650mAh 25C pack.

Funny thing about the EF you mentioned, mbritt... my son and I have two 3DHS Velox's and two SHP's and a PA Extra 260, but we're now building a EF 300 EXP. Very impressive with the way they combined CF and epoxyglass with the ply and balsa. Very nice. I've never seen anything like it. But I also have an H-9 Frenzy and it took a beating like no one could imagine with a Saito 125 vibrating around on the nose. I once landed it with the elevator hanging perpendicular to the fuse from the pushrod, and it just slid onto the runway like nothing happened. My friend has the Funtana and my son flew it. He said it flies light and can do pattern and 3D with ease, and even the type of flying I do! ... Kids.

Anyway, if the Funtana is going to be close to 10 lbs, then I'm going to have to change motors and batteries, and there are too may other choices in that weight range. Thanks for your help anyway.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

No other reinforcements needed for a gasser then?

mbritt

On a 18x10 Xoar (yes they are a more efficient prop, if not xoar then Zinger works well as a backup) with fresh packs 2x4s in series I can crack right at 1700 watts at 60 amp max. I have not retested yet with the ICE 100 but dont beleive that will change much as opposed to the Castle HV 85. Normally the 18x8 gets 1600. I tried a 20x8 on 6s and 7s with the power 110 but like I said its a dog and wont run very well on anything less than 8s. I even tried test with advancing my timing etc... but its futile with that motor.

mbritt

Tried to balance the funtana with 2 x 4s 3000mah batteries last night. Not going to work without adding lead. these 2 batteries are actually lighter than the 2x3s 5000's and I had to move thesse against the fire wall to make it balance so thats not going to work as I have nothing else I can move.

mbritt

If I come up with a way to get it lighter you will be the first to know but so far I havent came up with a way yet. If I added a little weight or a different spinner to the plane I might get the 2 x 4s 3000 Turnigy / Flightmax batteries to balance, but there isnt anyway without allot of lead to make the 2x4s 2650's I have balance. Also used to really want a velox so for my curiousity how does if fly? how was the quality etc...The EF is an awesome plane. FYI I have weights and details of everything on the EF if you need them down to the weight of every part before assembly (yes Im pretty anal like that LOL) as well as allot of build images etc. Oh one thing I would recomend on the 300 EXP is do your elevator install and setup before you install your rudder. This makes matching the 2 halves a whole lot easier. I changed my hinges on the Funtana so I can remove a control surface at any time so this wasnt an issue there.

mbritt

I was using Turnigy 2 - 4s 4000 and decided to get some of the new Flightmax 4s - 4000 's. So they came in yesterday andsurprisinglyenough they are about 180 grams lighter than the 5000 's I have been using and 80 grams lighter then the Turnigy. This should make a huge difference. I stand a bit back from original post that this may get the plane close to where I would like to see it for electric flight. I get good flight time with the 5000 setup and see no reason why you shouldnt get 6-8 minutes fom the 4000. As soon as it gets warm I will let you know.

Downthrust

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks, and keep me in mind if the weight ever pans out, but I don't see how my setup ever will. I also don't want to use this thread to discuss another brand so I'll PM you with the details, but there is a Velox thread in another universe that you may want to review. My son also flew the EXP several times already and he has videos of the PA 260, the Velox, the SHP, and the EXP on youtube. If you're interested you can PM me back and I'll send you some links. Thanks, again.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Please PM me with the Velox and others video links please!