kochj

Thanks for the information about the yak54....

I didn't look at flying any IMAC or crazy routines....
Quite honestly, I would like to run the engine in a lightly loaded plane, so that I can sort out ANY issues with the radial, before I place it in
a heavily loaded prized built plane...

I will be using inflight data (hitech telemitry) when I do get it up in the air...

Did you spray the ceramic coating from cans or a gun?

Did your prevy post go into detail about the proccess??

I do plan on a fuel pump...and I am pleased that the addition of insulation of the exhaust ring
helps with heat disipation.... What great information...

I would like to place mine in a AMR 33%waco...but will see...

kochj

Don't know what you are saying??
Your plane burned up??

germrb

My Feedback: (3)

Kochj,

Sounds like you'll be fine using the 40% Yak as a test bed. The 215 should work very well.

I am going to have the ceramic coatings done by a commercial shop. I have heard of spray can applications, but have been told that they aren't as efficient. Don't know if thats true, its just what I heard. Also, the commercial shop can coat both inside & outside surfaces. The material manufacturers claim 30 - 35% heat reduction and coating both surfaces is better than just the outside. All of this is speculation until I have a chance to collect some data.

I have an AMR 33% WACO with a 250 radial. Its a great match and lots of fun to fly.

Later,

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

On a Moki 250, I need to remove the mounting ring to drill 2 additional mounting bolt holes because of an obstruction in the dome of the plane I'm building.

Question - is there anything I should be aware of before doing this??

It appears the carb needs removed first and then the 5 bolts connecting the ring to the case. The plug wires and ignition cable are in close proximity and I don't want to disturb something that could cause problems later.

Thanks - Jaketab

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

that is an odd place to put an exhaust ring. The ring in front of the intake pipes?? The heat given off is simply heating the intake charge losing power and causing who knows what other problems.

kochj

Okay I have recieved my moki215cc new radial engine...
I havn't opened and unpacked yet...as the engine was delivered to my dad's...
(he would be around to sign for the package, I wouldn't)

Before I get into the guts of it all:
Are these engines as big of a pita, as they seem to be?
Overheating, leaning, blubery rich, cyl's droping out, burning up planes from the exhuast manifold and excess heat, ignitions geting smoked from too much heat...
I knew there would be maintinence, but tell me that one can ACTUALLY FLY with these engines more than a few times, and have it airborn for more than 6 min. at a time, w/o worring about
overheating and leaning out, or oppisite???

Can some one reassure me I made the right decision? I don't have to be doing Imac routines....I just want the engine to perform as expected:
I expect it to run reliably, w/o leaning out or dropping cyls...or any of the other issues??
I want to be able to fly the plane scale EVERY weekend, keep up with maintinence, and know it will last for years to come...

I watched a recent video of a review by M.Epstieeeeen. and his moki 215cc radial on a AMR 33% WACO Bipe...
It seems it has a fuel pump on it from the pictures I have seen..
It seems Remotely possible that there would be enough airflow OUT of the cowl, to cool the engine??
3/4ths OUTPUT as Input rule (engine airflow to keep engine cool)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yv6MT...eature=related

JPate147

I can only speak for the 250 models, but I have two of them and they both run flawlessy. I use the APS fuel pump - the engines start quickly and there are no lean or rich runs. I do have to pull the cowl after each days flying and oil the rockers and tighten the exhaust flange nuts. They loosen after each flying day. Your message looks like you are saying to use 3/4 of the outlet air as the inlet. I have found that you need a minimum of 3 times the exit air as the inlet air. If you baffle the area between the cylinders, the exhaust ring suffers somewhat because of less inlet air so there may not be any tradeoff with the baffling. I do not baffle my engines.

Good luck with your new engine - you will love it.

Jerry

Scott Prossen

Ditto! Well said. Have not had any issues running several of them.

kochj

There is enough airflow through the cowl on the waco?
I don't see 3x's outlet as in...

When you say flawless running, you can run them all day long? no issues in doing so??

Scott Prossen

You need to stop every so often to fill up on gas!

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, on the Waco there is enough air outlet. The cooling air exits in a full open circle behind the engine since the cowl has about 1/2" separation from the fuse all the way around. I have flown it on 100 degree F days with no issues. I rarely go above 1/2 throttle so that may be a factor. Mine is the one in the cideo that was mentioned. I installed the fuel pump because I had issues twice with gunk clogging the pulse line to the carb. Mitch

kochj

What do you do with the pulse line when you install the pump?
Let it hang like any other nitro 4-stroke, They have a fitment on the backplate, that one has to hook up a fuel line, so the excess oil goes
where you want it to.

wxman2

My Feedback: (52)

Since I have a few weeks before I need the Moki 250, I am going to have the exhaut ceramic coating inside and out. It will be late summer / fall before I will have any results to post.

JPate147

Kochj:

There is a full explanation late in this thread from Vogelsang-Aeroscale as to the most recent recomendations on how to properly install the new fuel pump, and what to do with the pressure pulse tube. You need to cut it close to the carb (and completely seal the carb end) and leave the pressure pulse from the crankcase open.

kochj

Update..

I decided to keep my smaller radials and sell the moki 215cc.
It is brand new. Only ran by the factory before shipped.
I just have too many planes right now to wrap up another 4G's in just the airframe, not to mention the engine
Doing all this without, selling any of my current planes engines, would be to large of a undertaking right now..

I would rather have just 2-large airframes/engines than have 15-dif. planes with a plethra of High end multicyl. glow 4-strokes, gas twins, gas singles combined with rc cars, buggies ect..

Too overwhelming for me right now...
I will list it in the Rcuniverse adds for a quick sale... with plenty of High Def. pictures ect...

I love the engine, and will have one when the time is right...

Justin..

Scott Prossen

Sorry to hear that Justin but it sounds like you are making the right decision. Sometimes that's really hard to do for us boys and our toys. Good luck to you and stop back often. Maybe we will get to see you at Owatonna or Fond du Lac this August.

Enjoy your summertime flying.
Scott

Detlef Kunkel

Hi there guys,

somebody called my name? Too much honour for me, I am blushing...

But maybe I can help you?
I also had plans for adding an electric onboard starter to my P-47 with her Moki 250, but I gave it up.
First, the plane is very nice to fly, but I dont wish to make her heavier than she is right now (68 lbs).The engine is very easy to start ( electric fuel pump and of course a turbulator kit installed) .

And secondly, a friend successfully did a conversation of a Moki 250 to E-starter like above. It works, but doesnt look too well on the engines front. You need a (big & ugly) gear reduction at the engines front, with a gear added underneath the prop hub, and an offset shaft to run with the drive shaft between the foot flange oftwo cylinders. The electric motor (with another reduction drive) is then placed behind the engine. In my eyes not a good "scale-"solution, as long as you have an airplane with a visible engine like a P47 etc.
When you hide your engines front ( Sea Fury, FW190 etc) with a big spinner, it might be an idea.

Only chance to keep the engines face intact, is to make a deep operation at the engines crankcase, crankshaft and carburetion. You would need a prolongation of your crankshaft, another set of ball bearings an auxillary shaft where you carburetor is right now, and another design for the rear crankcase housing with an upright facing carburetor. I guess this being produced in a small serial production will be priced at 1000 bucksor more. Remember, the engine needsmassive rebuild works. Who would buy that? 3 people on this planet, not more I am afraid

I will ask my friend to send me a picture of his conversion work ( there is even a small video )

So long
Detlef

kochj

Thank you Scott,

I have not made it to Owattona but would like too
From what I have seen in pictures, the field looks fantastic...

The other issue with large planes right now, is that My flying field will be MOST def. be under WATER for most of the flying year..
I have info on a Huge field that is owned by a local farmer, but have yet to see it...

Can't go out to a local soccer field that is surrounded by houses and fly a 50lb plane safetly....[X(]

All the snow is melted by me though!... Looking forward to getting out this there, for sure...
\

J. Koch.

flstn95

My Feedback: (2)

Can anyone tell me if the wall thickness of the collector ring is thick enough to drill and tap for a 4-40 smoke nipple? Or is there a smoke nipple available for the 5mm smoke attachment point already on the Moki 250?

Thanks.

germrb

My Feedback: (3)

flstn95,

Yes, you can drill and tap into the collector ring, but there is minimum thread engagement. I have done it successfully using JB Weld to bond it. However, you can use a standard 10-32 smoke nipple in the 5mm threaded port. The thread difference is insignificant with only 5-6 threads engaged. Be sure and use blue Loctite to seal the threads.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

flstn95

Found this smoke filling at TMB. Link below.
A 1/8" nipple and 10-32 or 5mm threads.

Jaketab

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items...KEFITTING.html

kochj

Well guys...
I sold my 215cc radial engine. pending the arrival of funds...
The buyer seemed like a great guy and will get great use out of it...

I will refer him to this forum...

He will be using it in a CARF 110 Corsair..


I will sell almost all my planes and cars and reduce it down to the radial plane and 1-other....
It will not happen until next year though....need time to sort it all out...

I want to do the AMR 40% Waco...
It will have a MOKI 400 or the Valch 420.
Anyone know what the diff. between the two???
Did moki update the pickup on the 400 (from the black to the machined metal with fins)????

Thanks all for you great help..

kochj

If you get MAN (model airplane news) they had a DIY smoke muffler.
I thought it was THE best way I have ever seen to do smoke...

They used a brass tubing that went threw the muffler and exited(pre-heating the smoke fluid) then bent back into the muffler, crimping the exit.
Only a TINY exit hole for the oil....

He had the pump down to lowest seting....

That fitting hole is WAY to big... You need it to spray out (atomizing fine mist) and that gives the best smoke!>...

This is how I will do ALL of mine...

ALSO, you can add a pipe with dilled holes, into the exits of the collector (esentially having a Baffling effect) which will help make even MORE smoke...

I will post picts...

kochj

here you go...Smoke DIY

Very Impressive for a Zenoah 20cc!

Scott Prossen

J. K.,
Thanks for taking the time to post all that stuff. You're right the article is a good one! See ya around....I hope.

Scott