laryboy

My Feedback: (2)

fg-36 cable from engine pickup to ignition box has strange connector at ignition box cable.........anyone know what it is and where i may get one ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

This is one of the problems with the Saito ignition system in that everything is proprietary and not generally available.

Maybe you should consider a new connector that you can get?

I changed my ignition systems to the RCEXL set ups and got away from the odd ball, non supported, and too expensive Saito designs.

marcin-rc

I also bought FG36 2nd hand last time. Have no time to test it yeat. But - like challenge. All is true about ignition module. Have one from MVVS - new style ICU 1.5 , look really professional. I will test it soon. Hope it will be not problem get TDC. MVVS supplied new prop drive and magnet for hall sensor have different location, so I can imagine ignition angle is different, or module calculate this a little different like oldone.

Steven Chen

fg 36
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgYuEJbYqBM[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fynuZX0VSfM[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WO_g7NsU868[/youtube]

fg 14
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBj0zmu46oU[/youtube]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Get it on a plane and into the air

FedeDiaz

What type of ignition did you purchase? The two stroke? Is there any difference with the 4 stroke ignitions? Where did you get it ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I purchased a RCEXL ignition for a 1/4-32 spark plug with a 120 degree angle connector for my FG-20 engines and for my FG-36 engine I purchased a RCEXL ignition for the CM-6 spark plug.

FedeDiaz

where did you get them ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I got mine from CH Ignitions before they closed but these ignitions are available from Valley View, Agape Racing, RC Extreme power, and Wrong Way R/C, as well as many other sources.

On the FG20 engines, when I changed to the RCEXL ignitions, I also changed to the RCEXL 1/4-20 spark plug

FedeDiaz

THANK YOU! I will try again on my engine (that it is stored on its box). I have one airplane that may benefict from its use.
Best Regards,

Federico

Sharpeye22

Hi all,
  Some suggestions please.  I have a saito FG14b gasser.  I can not seem to get it to tune properly.  On the ground I can tune it and get good top end and very low ideal.   The transition is smooth.  In the air for the 1^st few min all is well.  Then it will die and I have to dead stick land it.  I can richen it up just 2 clicks and it will not dead stick but it sounds terrible like it is going to die any moment. 

Things I have tried:

   New fuel

   New filter in line with the carb and tank.

  Checked all fuel lines for pin holes.

  Made sure ignition battery is good and fully charged.

  Checked high speed needle for bends.

  Tank location in line with carb.

  Fly without cowl

 

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It may be getting hot?

hyltaiwan

Check fuel nipple on the carbulator. If it leaks, it is hard to observe.

Sharpeye22

I double checked for overheating. It is running cooler than my FG20 or my FG36 and they run great. I checked the temp without the cowl and with the cowl and it is actualy running cooler with cowl. I guess because of the ducting and directing of cooling air within the cowl. So I do not belief it is a heat problem.

I did not know of the fuel niples being able to leak. Do you mean leaking around the fuel tubing or wearthenippleis attached to the carb. body? How would I check for this?

Let me clarify how it runs when I back the high speed needle out just two clicks.

It will sound fine but randomly will seem to sort of gargal. The gargal sound is sort of the sound like when you run a glow 4S way to rich. It will also missfire randomly.

ALWAYSPDG

My Feedback: (1)

A random misfire to me sounds like an ignition problem possibly!

Mike

Didg

I had the woodruff key break on mine and that caused symptoms similar to your's so worth checking that.

Sharpeye22

Woodruff key is something Icould see causing this problem. It would mess with the spark timing. I am at work now but will check it out when I get home and let you know.

Thanks for the suggestions all.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The FG-14 does not have a Woodruff Key on the prop drive washer. It has an elongated setscrew pin that fits in a pocket in the crankshaft to maintain the position of the hub http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAIG36152

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Just a WAG, but I would ensure that the vent line of the fuel tank is not kinked and partially blocked. Such a thing will let the engine run for a while and then quit. It will also be quite hot (the engine). It is such a common problem and it is so easy to do that it is my first thing I check on any model with an IC engine. Good luck and let us know what it was.


Ed Cregger

Sharpeye22

Imay have figured out the problem. There are two types of Gas fuel tubing I have tried.

The 1st is a yellow one thatmost people around here use.

S208 Fuel Line Tubing 3/32" Ylw Gas 3'
http://www.advantagehobby.com/produc...oductid=112241

The second is a black one:

249 Fuel Line Medium 4'
http://www.advantagehobby.com/produc...57&quantity=10

The yellow line gets hard quickly and does not allow the fuel line to move around the inside ofthe tank. The second is to soft and develope pin hole or just splits in two.

The fact that the tank is small and so short makes the problem worse.

I belive I need to find some fuel line like the yellow that will stay flexable when submerged in gasoline.

spaceworm

Search for gas fuel line here on RCU, re issues with ethanol, leaving fuel in the tank, using Viton, different makes of Neoprene, etc. Much discussion there. Good luck

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I just buy my fuel line at the chain saw dealer. It is the yellowish stuff and says Tygon on it. I don't pump my tanks dry at the end of the day. What gasoline is left in the tank stays in there until the next flying day.

Neo gold

There is a weighty walbro felt clunk that helps....one thing i check more than anything on my gassers is the fuel tank & lines/filters etc..
The tygon line in the tank expands a little over time & needs to be replaced!....recently i replaced a few lines in my planes & noticed the tubing is more flexible..& actually stamped tygon!....warmer weather!?..no not really..as the line removed was much stiffer.
Iuse small ties to make them more secure on the clunk & feed lines...also replace the lines, & replace the stopper at the same time.
On the colder days..leaving a little fuel in the tank won't harm, & keep the lines flexible anyway.

MercerAUST

I use the black stuff on my Fg-14 - the yellow Tygon tended to be a bit lose on the fittings. Mine exhibited symptons like yours, but gradually got better with time (it took about 10 hours run time to start running perfectly). I just kept flying it although ebryone kept asking why I didn't lean it.

I eventually  found that richening the low end (until you can get a reliable, and only slightly smoky exhaust) allowed me to get another half turn lean on the high end and still get reliable running (generally about 6 clicks back from the 'cliff''). I also lessened my oil mix after run-in to about 25/30:1 which may have helped.  If you are patient, just tune/fly the plane for reliability and not worry about how it sounds, I think you will get there eventually.

bradleyban

On my FG-36 I used 1/8" Tygon on the fuel supply line and on the vent lines. For inside the tanks I used "Buna-N". It's a very flexible fuel line and does not get hard. You need to use the barb's on the tank. I also used a felt walbro clunk in the tank. My FG-36 is running the best it has and all I think i need to do now is tune it better. I put on a two flight Yesturday that were about 15 min long each and I only burnt 1/2 a tank of fuel total!! (19 oz. tank) Once this engine is dialed it it will be spectactular!!


Here's a link where I bought my fuel line http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...46c00u1kkdnu91


Here is the clunk I used  http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...46c00u1kkdnu91