Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
SKINNING SIDES
Im not too crazy on the finish on the nose but its not noticeable up in the air or in the water. (nor in the photos)
I had saved the covering with the side windows for copying. I think it came out pretty decent.
Im not too crazy on the finish on the nose but its not noticeable up in the air or in the water. (nor in the photos)
I had saved the covering with the side windows for copying. I think it came out pretty decent.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
IRON REPAIR
Murphy showed up halfway into skinning the fuselage. You can run to the LHS and purchase another one or...
Needle nose pliers (one with bent tip) used to bend wire as I dont own one of those wire benders jigs...yet.
Lighter for heating up wire prior to bending and also for the heat shrink tubes.
Needed to cut electric cord in order to remove from inside handle, thats why you would notice different color connectors. (blue to red)
After I was done, ended with a straight handle...not good. I shortened front wire in order to give handle an angle.
Finally, cut off about an inch from original handle and wedged onto dowel. This allows me to remove it to get into tighter places even better than before.
Murphy showed up halfway into skinning the fuselage. You can run to the LHS and purchase another one or...
Needle nose pliers (one with bent tip) used to bend wire as I dont own one of those wire benders jigs...yet.
Lighter for heating up wire prior to bending and also for the heat shrink tubes.
Needed to cut electric cord in order to remove from inside handle, thats why you would notice different color connectors. (blue to red)
After I was done, ended with a straight handle...not good. I shortened front wire in order to give handle an angle.
Finally, cut off about an inch from original handle and wedged onto dowel. This allows me to remove it to get into tighter places even better than before.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
GF WINDSHIELD PLUG
First layer too wrinkled [] Good thing its the inside part.
Total of 3 layers of 2oz. Sanded and ready for a little black paint.
I will make another one for me.
First layer too wrinkled [] Good thing its the inside part.
Total of 3 layers of 2oz. Sanded and ready for a little black paint.
I will make another one for me.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
TEMPORARY FUEL TANK REPAIR
After covering the fuse, I was itching to crank the engine as it was over 7 months on hiatus. She started right up and purred like a kitten.
Unfortunately while lifting nose for fine tuning needle, fuel started coming out of pod and going into fuse. [X(] Fortunately I had water proof inside pod but not the cover,which got fuel soaked, weak and mushy.
Removed fuel tank cover and noticed tank had a crack at the top of flange where plug with brass tubes go in.
A little dremel action to make a groove around flange and some music wire to keep it from spreading when tightening plug to seal.
This is a temp solution until I get a similar replacement as this plane is not for acro nor inverted flight. Cranked her up again and no leaks. I was surprised it actually worked.
Last time I visited the local club, sticking out of the crash can was a doomed plane with a label with the name MR MIKE. Thanks Mike! You're plane memory lives on with my Mariner.
The "new" cover was already half done with white monokote...sweet.
After covering the fuse, I was itching to crank the engine as it was over 7 months on hiatus. She started right up and purred like a kitten.
Unfortunately while lifting nose for fine tuning needle, fuel started coming out of pod and going into fuse. [X(] Fortunately I had water proof inside pod but not the cover,which got fuel soaked, weak and mushy.
Removed fuel tank cover and noticed tank had a crack at the top of flange where plug with brass tubes go in.
A little dremel action to make a groove around flange and some music wire to keep it from spreading when tightening plug to seal.
This is a temp solution until I get a similar replacement as this plane is not for acro nor inverted flight. Cranked her up again and no leaks. I was surprised it actually worked.
Last time I visited the local club, sticking out of the crash can was a doomed plane with a label with the name MR MIKE. Thanks Mike! You're plane memory lives on with my Mariner.
The "new" cover was already half done with white monokote...sweet.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
WIND DAMAGE
I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. [8D]
Luckily only one of the spars broke off and it had to be the bottom one...go figure. An easy fix as it was a clean snap.
Second row last photo, you will notice where a previous repair had been done. There was this lake I used to go to that has metal pipes sticking out that are used for fish feeding. It was not the best lake but the closest. At the time I was not aware of a float flying club. While on a landing and still with some momentum after touch down, the left wing met this pole and broke leading edge. The white on the wood is spackle to fill voids and cracks. Balsarite would be better, but...
This plane has also "landed" on top of a 80ft + pine tree after a take off where the wind shifted on me and she was now climbing down wind. She almost cleared it by a couple of feet. Climbing spikes, ladders and ropes came in handy the next morning..thanks goes to SAM on that one as he knew the owner of the spikes. It saved me effort and time and the plane of course. The right leading edge suffered on that one and not much either. We video that rescue for the "halibut".
If I was to remake the whole wing on any plane this size or larger, I would definitely use a dowel for leading edge instead of balsa. The black CUB on the background on some photos has such and its strong. Food for thought.
I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. [8D]
Luckily only one of the spars broke off and it had to be the bottom one...go figure. An easy fix as it was a clean snap.
Second row last photo, you will notice where a previous repair had been done. There was this lake I used to go to that has metal pipes sticking out that are used for fish feeding. It was not the best lake but the closest. At the time I was not aware of a float flying club. While on a landing and still with some momentum after touch down, the left wing met this pole and broke leading edge. The white on the wood is spackle to fill voids and cracks. Balsarite would be better, but...
This plane has also "landed" on top of a 80ft + pine tree after a take off where the wind shifted on me and she was now climbing down wind. She almost cleared it by a couple of feet. Climbing spikes, ladders and ropes came in handy the next morning..thanks goes to SAM on that one as he knew the owner of the spikes. It saved me effort and time and the plane of course. The right leading edge suffered on that one and not much either. We video that rescue for the "halibut".
If I was to remake the whole wing on any plane this size or larger, I would definitely use a dowel for leading edge instead of balsa. The black CUB on the background on some photos has such and its strong. Food for thought.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
RIBS - Tracing
Started by gluing the cracked ribs.
Traced the ribs with newspaper type paper first (thinner thus easier)
Tried a test on a scrap piece of balsa to verify.
Started by gluing the cracked ribs.
Traced the ribs with newspaper type paper first (thinner thus easier)
Tried a test on a scrap piece of balsa to verify.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
RIBS - Cutting
Now onto regular stock paper. This takes several attempts to get it just right.
Then it was just a matter of making a few out of balsa and finally one of 3mm ply for future reference or use. (hope not)
Once again I was able to use "Mr Mike" RIP plane for spare wood.
Folding paper rib in half lenght wise not only expedites cutting but since its a symmetrical profile, both sides either come out perfect or with the same error. So in essence correcting one side automatically corrects the other half.
Now onto regular stock paper. This takes several attempts to get it just right.
Then it was just a matter of making a few out of balsa and finally one of 3mm ply for future reference or use. (hope not)
Once again I was able to use "Mr Mike" RIP plane for spare wood.
Folding paper rib in half lenght wise not only expedites cutting but since its a symmetrical profile, both sides either come out perfect or with the same error. So in essence correcting one side automatically corrects the other half.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
RIBS - Gluing
SPAR - Repair
Done cutting. Now for some dry fitting prior to gluing with good old reliable yellow glue.
Thin hanger wire and epoxy will do the job for the spar. Carved a groove for wire to sit flush.
SPAR - Repair
Done cutting. Now for some dry fitting prior to gluing with good old reliable yellow glue.
Thin hanger wire and epoxy will do the job for the spar. Carved a groove for wire to sit flush.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
LEADING EDGE
Cut off small damaged section at an acute angle for a scarf joint. This adds gluing area and is usually 8 times thickness of piece but overkill for this project. A butt joint is another option with some backing for bracing such as a half rib forward of spars.
I already started sheeting the wing as of this post. Just a little more to go. [8D]
Cut off small damaged section at an acute angle for a scarf joint. This adds gluing area and is usually 8 times thickness of piece but overkill for this project. A butt joint is another option with some backing for bracing such as a half rib forward of spars.
I already started sheeting the wing as of this post. Just a little more to go. [8D]
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Not to shabby ... I enjoy these type of repairs sometimes ... building from plan certainly gives you the skill to do a decent repair when needed.
Scott.
Scott.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
^Thanks...never have built from purchased plans. Seen them...does that count?
I will take credit for some creativity but thanks to this site as well as others and especially the folks that have also shared for many years.
Also thanks to Al Gore for inventing the internet
******************
SHEETING TOP
The piece of bent wire with a loop on one end was used to push cracked/broken sheet into place from inside. CA was used here.
A "T" pin was used to pull web against spars. Manufacturer used CA here.
Had to scrape off brittle pieces then used a couple drops of epoxy as yellow glue would not work.
Done with top sheeting!
I will take credit for some creativity but thanks to this site as well as others and especially the folks that have also shared for many years.
Also thanks to Al Gore for inventing the internet
******************
SHEETING TOP
The piece of bent wire with a loop on one end was used to push cracked/broken sheet into place from inside. CA was used here.
A "T" pin was used to pull web against spars. Manufacturer used CA here.
Had to scrape off brittle pieces then used a couple drops of epoxy as yellow glue would not work.
Done with top sheeting!
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
SHEETING BOTTOM
Dowels used for equal distribution of sandbag load. Rubber bands help keep dowels in place.
Done with bottom!
The moment of truth is when mounting wing to fuselage and checking saddle fit. [X(]
Think I still need to use silicone rubber for sealing? (of course I will )
Need to go to LHS later on today to pick up some black monokote for the leading edge of wing and stripes.
Blue painters tape on forward hatch just holding in place until replaced with magnets.
Dowels used for equal distribution of sandbag load. Rubber bands help keep dowels in place.
Done with bottom!
The moment of truth is when mounting wing to fuselage and checking saddle fit. [X(]
Think I still need to use silicone rubber for sealing? (of course I will )
Need to go to LHS later on today to pick up some black monokote for the leading edge of wing and stripes.
Blue painters tape on forward hatch just holding in place until replaced with magnets.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
^Thanks. Also have contemplated going with fuse side retracts as well as in wing.
However, Model Aviation Feb 06 (page 78) has a photo of a Mariner with removable landing gear and I'm leaning towards this idea.
I can scan and send you copy if interested. Dont know if I can post here.
*************
BALSA CORED WING FLOATS
I started working on at least one foam cored balsa float before repairing originals ones as I'm itching to fly her this weekend.
First traced top and side profile onto cardboard by using a lamp to cast their shadow for tracing.
Fix errors with blue tape for a second tracing.
Side profile used as template for 3/16th balsa sides. Cut out four for sanding all at the same time.
Top profile "cut out" further trimmed by width of balsa sides (3/16th) and then used as a template for balsa cores. (little sanding if new x-acto blade used)
A series of kerf cuts down to 1/16 off face to bend wood.
Tape on front keeps together in case it breaks while bending.
Rubber band assist with bend-clamping
Now that I have a scale replica, I can fix originals.
***Pending:
>yellow glue is smeared inside the sides and kerf cuts
>Cling wrap foam cores to keep glue off it as it will get messy.
>Wipe off excess glue. Wood keeps shape after glue dries.
>Sand inside.
>Remove cling wrap from core
>Use very thin layer of epoxy to glue sides to cores also top and bottom of float.
>Final sanding to shape
>Finish with GF, film or paint.
However, Model Aviation Feb 06 (page 78) has a photo of a Mariner with removable landing gear and I'm leaning towards this idea.
I can scan and send you copy if interested. Dont know if I can post here.
*************
BALSA CORED WING FLOATS
I started working on at least one foam cored balsa float before repairing originals ones as I'm itching to fly her this weekend.
First traced top and side profile onto cardboard by using a lamp to cast their shadow for tracing.
Fix errors with blue tape for a second tracing.
Side profile used as template for 3/16th balsa sides. Cut out four for sanding all at the same time.
Top profile "cut out" further trimmed by width of balsa sides (3/16th) and then used as a template for balsa cores. (little sanding if new x-acto blade used)
A series of kerf cuts down to 1/16 off face to bend wood.
Tape on front keeps together in case it breaks while bending.
Rubber band assist with bend-clamping
Now that I have a scale replica, I can fix originals.
***Pending:
>yellow glue is smeared inside the sides and kerf cuts
>Cling wrap foam cores to keep glue off it as it will get messy.
>Wipe off excess glue. Wood keeps shape after glue dries.
>Sand inside.
>Remove cling wrap from core
>Use very thin layer of epoxy to glue sides to cores also top and bottom of float.
>Final sanding to shape
>Finish with GF, film or paint.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
GF WING FLOATS (originals)
Drilled four new holes around axle hole to allow epoxy to seep in and further secure inside block that keeps axle centered.
A bamboo stick helps keep epoxy out of main hole. I do want "some" to go in here but not much.
Just enought to form a seal between hole and block inside hole.
Hairlines are heavily scored or grooved with triangle shape diamong file. All loose gelcoat chips are removed.
This gives epoxy good penetration.
Not shown but tape was used to line both sides of seam bottom on one float.
Plenty of epoxy was used as this was a seam that split from step all the way back.
Excess was wiped off with rag and another piece of tape was placed over seam.
This kept epoxy from dripping out of seam and also makes for a very thin layer.
After about one hour all tape is removed.
Float were tested under 2ft of water and no bubbles came out.
Axle was covered in silicon prior to insertion for a final sealing. No water is getting in either.
They were wet sanded with 600 grit and the "white" will get painted after a gallon.[8D]
Drilled four new holes around axle hole to allow epoxy to seep in and further secure inside block that keeps axle centered.
A bamboo stick helps keep epoxy out of main hole. I do want "some" to go in here but not much.
Just enought to form a seal between hole and block inside hole.
Hairlines are heavily scored or grooved with triangle shape diamong file. All loose gelcoat chips are removed.
This gives epoxy good penetration.
Not shown but tape was used to line both sides of seam bottom on one float.
Plenty of epoxy was used as this was a seam that split from step all the way back.
Excess was wiped off with rag and another piece of tape was placed over seam.
This kept epoxy from dripping out of seam and also makes for a very thin layer.
After about one hour all tape is removed.
Float were tested under 2ft of water and no bubbles came out.
Axle was covered in silicon prior to insertion for a final sealing. No water is getting in either.
They were wet sanded with 600 grit and the "white" will get painted after a gallon.[8D]
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
FINAL DETAILS
Wing covering completed.
Fuel tank cover sanded flushed and covered both sides this time.
First day out, rubber band will keep in place. IF no fuel issues due to repaired tank, then silicone inside seams will be used to keep cover in place.
Wing saddle, windshield, engine pod mast received Silicone. Cling wrap was used to protect wing and mast.
Even wing screw as well as fuselage got some too.
Fully cured in 8 hours and excess trimmed.
A couple of microwave dried sponges are wedged by each side of engine pod mast and fuselage, ready just in case.
RX
Receiver fail safe programmed (engine below normal idle, 3 degree up elevator and 3 degree left rudder)
Corrosion X treated. (all electrical connectors as well as metal hardware)
Sealed inside a zip lock and a sponge wire tied around wire leads before Rx.
If water gets in bag, sponge should absorb anything going to Rx.
Not seen is a small silica pellets bag (absorb moisture)
RX BATTERY
4.8 NiMH 1650mA wraped in foam keeping off bottom of hull and tucked under forward hatch.
Packing tape will be used over hatch until magnets completely set.
All radio programming doble checked. Rdo batt charged...check.
New fuel lines...check.
New gallon of fuel...check.
New battery for glow starter...check
New plug...check
Weather forecast....SSE 3-4mph 80'sF...check.[8D]
Volunteer to video flights....CHECK!
Heading out as of this editing. 10:45am Sunday.
Thanks for reading and comments...Video to follow.
Wing covering completed.
Fuel tank cover sanded flushed and covered both sides this time.
First day out, rubber band will keep in place. IF no fuel issues due to repaired tank, then silicone inside seams will be used to keep cover in place.
Wing saddle, windshield, engine pod mast received Silicone. Cling wrap was used to protect wing and mast.
Even wing screw as well as fuselage got some too.
Fully cured in 8 hours and excess trimmed.
A couple of microwave dried sponges are wedged by each side of engine pod mast and fuselage, ready just in case.
RX
Receiver fail safe programmed (engine below normal idle, 3 degree up elevator and 3 degree left rudder)
Corrosion X treated. (all electrical connectors as well as metal hardware)
Sealed inside a zip lock and a sponge wire tied around wire leads before Rx.
If water gets in bag, sponge should absorb anything going to Rx.
Not seen is a small silica pellets bag (absorb moisture)
RX BATTERY
4.8 NiMH 1650mA wraped in foam keeping off bottom of hull and tucked under forward hatch.
Packing tape will be used over hatch until magnets completely set.
All radio programming doble checked. Rdo batt charged...check.
New fuel lines...check.
New gallon of fuel...check.
New battery for glow starter...check
New plug...check
Weather forecast....SSE 3-4mph 80'sF...check.[8D]
Volunteer to video flights....CHECK!
Heading out as of this editing. 10:45am Sunday.
Thanks for reading and comments...Video to follow.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Sure looks nice. Everytime I see your progress, I think about rebuilding mine. Mine just needs a new wing and horiz stab, so maybe I will get to it eventually. One thing to think about on your tip floats, I found that if the trailing edge is sharper, they tend to come unstuck from the water easier when coming up on step. I put little depron rectangles on mine to make a temporary test, and the sharper rear edge made a noticable change in mid speed water handling. I know that they have a built in step, but this seemed to help too.
Hope your flight test goes well.
Hope your flight test goes well.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Thanks...will consider float modification on the balsa cored ones.
Had three flights with minor issues.
Lost fuel tank cover on my 2 landing (a double bounce). The wind eventually blew back in my direction by third flight.
As it was completely covered, it did not get wet. Forgot rubber band but had packing tape on hand. Details, details.
After third flight, engine starts acting. Only runs for about 20 seconds then dies as if fuel starved.
Decided to head home as sun was doing its magic thing even in the shade.
So far its not the plug, hoses...so it must be the "repaired" fuel tank but no fuel seemed to be leaking.
I have another one similar in size but not layout. Will use it until a similar replament comes along.
Carb is loose. Need to remove cowling and might as well replace O-ring.
Its not 5pm yet. Still have >three hours of sunlight and much cooler.
Have a couple of videos...will post soon.
Last Photo...
Ready for the lake on the background.
Had three flights with minor issues.
Lost fuel tank cover on my 2 landing (a double bounce). The wind eventually blew back in my direction by third flight.
As it was completely covered, it did not get wet. Forgot rubber band but had packing tape on hand. Details, details.
After third flight, engine starts acting. Only runs for about 20 seconds then dies as if fuel starved.
Decided to head home as sun was doing its magic thing even in the shade.
So far its not the plug, hoses...so it must be the "repaired" fuel tank but no fuel seemed to be leaking.
I have another one similar in size but not layout. Will use it until a similar replament comes along.
Carb is loose. Need to remove cowling and might as well replace O-ring.
Its not 5pm yet. Still have >three hours of sunlight and much cooler.
Have a couple of videos...will post soon.
Last Photo...
Ready for the lake on the background.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Very nice! I plan on rebuilding my Neptune this Winter, I had a bad deadstick landing and broke the wood wing joiner and smashed some of the balsa covering on the wing this last weekend. What made it even worse I had to do it in front of a crowd at a Fun Float Fly! So when I got home, I stripped all the covering and removed all the hardware, pushrods and by using heat, I removed the horizontal and vertical stablizer.
I called Maxford and they said that my version of the Neptune had a wing joiner issue among some other issues, and that's why they came out with the Neptune V2 to resolve them all. So not only my Super Tigger Engine had known carb problems, my original Neptune had known issues as well! (I was a angry Petey)
In the meantime Maxford USA sold me the V2 when I called them yesterday at dealer cost do to my structual failure on the original.
Watch for my rebuild and modification of the first version this Fall. I plan on adding retracts to make it a true amphibian and will be improving the original design. Plus I'm going O.S. for both versions, I can't take a chance using a cheap engines with faulty carbs if you know what I mean.
Your plane looks fantastic Pete! You would never know it was once busted up.
Pete
I called Maxford and they said that my version of the Neptune had a wing joiner issue among some other issues, and that's why they came out with the Neptune V2 to resolve them all. So not only my Super Tigger Engine had known carb problems, my original Neptune had known issues as well! (I was a angry Petey)
In the meantime Maxford USA sold me the V2 when I called them yesterday at dealer cost do to my structual failure on the original.
Watch for my rebuild and modification of the first version this Fall. I plan on adding retracts to make it a true amphibian and will be improving the original design. Plus I'm going O.S. for both versions, I can't take a chance using a cheap engines with faulty carbs if you know what I mean.
Your plane looks fantastic Pete! You would never know it was once busted up.
Pete
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
ORIGINAL: Pistol Pete
GF WINDSHIELD PLUG
First layer too wrinkled [] Good thing its the inside part.
Total of 3 layers of 2oz. Sanded and ready for a little black paint.
I will make another one for me.
GF WINDSHIELD PLUG
First layer too wrinkled [] Good thing its the inside part.
Total of 3 layers of 2oz. Sanded and ready for a little black paint.
I will make another one for me.
Any chance I could buy one of those windshields or even borrow the mold? I have lots of experience with FG so laying one up would be no problem. I'll pay for shipping both ways.
Don
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
There's something about these Mariners that makes us repair an otherwise normally totaled airplane. I have just completed my third makeover on my plane. They fly so well, very predictable and handle quite nice on the water. I have a Saito .72 Gold Knight four stroke that runs like a champ. I fly at 1/4 throttle or less for normal putting around but can just about 3D it when I get the itch. Many times people think I have a dead stick when I idle down because it is so quiet.
Great work Pete! You'll have all the bugs out in no time. Enjoy!
Anyone know of a successful UC mod so it can be flown from a runway? I've been toying with something similar to how the Seamaster has it setup.
Great work Pete! You'll have all the bugs out in no time. Enjoy!
Anyone know of a successful UC mod so it can be flown from a runway? I've been toying with something similar to how the Seamaster has it setup.
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
ORIGINAL: Skydanz
There's something about these Mariners that us repair an otherwise normally totaled airplane. I have just completed my third makeover on my plane. They fly so well, very predictable and handle quite nice on the water. I have a Saito .72 Gold Knight four stroke that runs like a champ. I fly at 1/4 throttle or less for normal putting around but can just about 3D it when I get the itch. Many times people think I have a dead stick when I idle down because it is so quiet.
Great work Pete! You'll have all the bugs out in no time. Enjoy!
Anyone know of a successful UC mod so it can be flown from a runway? I've been toying with something similar to how the Seamaster has it setup.
There's something about these Mariners that us repair an otherwise normally totaled airplane. I have just completed my third makeover on my plane. They fly so well, very predictable and handle quite nice on the water. I have a Saito .72 Gold Knight four stroke that runs like a champ. I fly at 1/4 throttle or less for normal putting around but can just about 3D it when I get the itch. Many times people think I have a dead stick when I idle down because it is so quiet.
Great work Pete! You'll have all the bugs out in no time. Enjoy!
Anyone know of a successful UC mod so it can be flown from a runway? I've been toying with something similar to how the Seamaster has it setup.
Same with the Neptunes. They still make the original, but with no more American distributors they are becoming a collectors item. Pretty soon you can only order them from Europe when Value Hobbies runs out of them.
Right now I'm restoring one of my original Neptunes and making it into a WWII "Make Believe" Luftwaffe Amphibian Seaplane. Right now I'm designing retracts to go into the wing. I already have the tail wheel fitted. I have the wing floats, tail, rudder, horizontal and vertical stabilizer covered in Flat Mono Olive and Light Blue. I also made a front hatch so I can place my weights and battery in.
The Neptune V2 from Maxford stinks. It looks as if many others had some quality issues as well. I found out that League Models has nothing to do with the V2 or Maxford anymore, and only makes the original- which I think is way better.
My cowl front and rear, Fiberglass Specialties makes the .40 and .60 Seamaster which is a exact match to what the Neptune has. So I'll be buying that pretty soon and will modify what ever I might have too.
I was going to rebuild and modify my Neptune this winter. But I don't have much other things to do, and I can only look at a naked aircraft frame for just so long!
Great job on your Lanier Mariner !
Pete
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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Pete, Any chance I could buy one of those windshields or even borrow the mold?
Anyone know of a successful UC mod so it can be flown from a runway? I've been toying with something similar to how the Seamaster has it setup.
FOUND IT...Model Aviation Feb 06 (page 78)
Once again thanks for compliments. Mariner right now is regoing a stab reconstruction. Water found its way in and also found hidden damage. Going to completely skin with wood and paint (lustrekote?) rather than monokote.
My firewall also came off. [X(] Hanging by carb rod. LUCKILY it was at the bench. Thinking of redoing the whole pod depending on what is left. Still have 3 months left to fly...in warm Wx.