50%plane

My Feedback: (5)

had a bad day flying today when the shaft broke on the Hacker A60 on my 88" Edge... should be an easy fix, though... bolt on a Syssa 60! cannot wait for it to arrive...

Joystick TX

MsgtRob,

Are you close to the maiden flight on the Corsair yet?

Our club is holding the Texas Scale Championships, U.S. Scale Masters Qualifier,on June 18-19; you need to pack up your plane and fly from a nice soft grass runway for a change. The winds should be below 30mph and the temp. should not be much over 95 deg.

MTK

I don't remember if I mentioned the latest development on my the SAP on this thread:
My engine was down on power the beginning of the season and quit a couple times at about 1/2 tank. I disassembled the engine and carb, cleaned the carb screen, cleaned the engine a little and reassembled it. Still poor running persisted.

I just got it back about 3 weeks ago. Todd replaced the bearings with new, completely sealed bearings. This apparently small reduction in crankcase volume plus the new bearings is really making the engine zing. Mine is piped set-up.

I switched to 100% Avgas mixed at 50:1 with BelRay MC1, which required leaning both needles about 1/8 turn. The engine has never run better. I tried Avgas last year and was disappointed but apparently I was just running the engine fat. The SAP 180 just loves Avgas eventhough it is a fairly high revving engine. Throttle response has improved and the engine actually is quieter than before when I ran pump gas. FWIW 2U

MsgtRob

I paused on the corsair to build the greatplanes PT-17 with SAP 180 for Memorial day weekend. I'm just about finished with the Steerman..will get back to the Corsair. soon. I did receive my replacement engine Thursday. Took just over two weeks to rceive. She's mounted in the Stick and got break-in plus 5 flights yesterday.

Thanks for the invite to Texas! The field sounds nice but I love my dry lake bed. Makes for some easy deadsticks (if needed). Although it would be cool to have a Sap owners fly-in. hmm...

FlymoreRC

MsgtRob,
Any chance of some photos of your PT-17?  Engine mounting would be appreciated, as well as other setup situations you encountered.
Thanks.

MsgtRob

Just so happens....

MsgtRob

few more...
Great Planes PT-17
SAP180 with 18 X 6
Smoke fittings on exhaust but not hooked up yet
Engine is mounted per spec using proper length standoffs from Syssa
2 Hitec HS-7955 Titanium Gear Ailerons 333 oz at 6 volts (complete overkill)
2 HS-5645mg for elevators slaved through radio program (no y cable)
1 HS-5645 MG Rudder
1 JR DS821 throttle servo
All running 6 volts
Recovered rudder white and added red stripes
Tail wheel assembly from a previous random build?
Added cockpit firewalll with dual miracle switch
All hinges are upgrade metal/plastic with cotter key (removable) elevator/rudder
Horns are from "the world models" airborne-models dot com
Darth Vader Bobble head gift from the Mrs....
Added mount rails at throttle servo and seperated elevator rods, all else is factory

Flying wires , inflatable 5" main tires and rubber tail wheel coming soon...assembed for CG and control throws adjustment.
Not sure what else I can say other than I added NO weight other than what was necessary to build and it balanced exactly at 5.5 aft of top wing leading edge as called for.

mal75

Looks good Rob. Can't wait to se it fly this weekend.

cmoulder

Great looking model!

Since the flying wires aren't functional, you can use some of the stretchy vinyl stuff from arts-and-crafts stores. It actually looks better in the air because it is a lot more visible due to its larger diameter. Very easy to set up at the field because it stretches, and simple to assemble just by threading it through a clevis and making a knot in the end.

I don't have a Stearman, but here is what it looks like on my Christen Eagle.

FlymoreRC

MsgtRob,
Nice job on your PT-17. I just might have to try putting one together as well.
Keep us informed on your first fight.

Joystick TX

Great job Rob. You need to be at the Scale Master meets.

I love it when no weight has to be added to an airplane.

50%plane

My Feedback: (5)

Just got a cool email from Todd, thought I would pass it on:


Amid the BBQ's, gatherings and RC flying this weekend, please take a moment to remember the brave men and women of our armed forces who paid the ultimate sacrifice for our country and freedom.


Here is a coupon code that we think many will find useful ! It is good from right now until Memorial Day!!! 10% off everything in the store !

Coupon code is: rememberthem10



Now, for vets or active service only, we are having an additional 5% percent off for a total of 15% off AND free shipping through Memorial Day (free shipping even if out of country ! )

If you are a veteran or active service please enter this code: iserved

Both coupons can be used on anything and everything in the store including Syssa 30's!

Have a great Memorial Day weekend...
Please be safe.
Please remember.

Thanks and take care,

Syssa Aircraft Performance LLC
772 North Colony Road
Building 7
Meriden, CT USA 06450

http://www.syssaaircraft.com/

(860) 538 2937

montagma

My Feedback: (3)

Does anyone have a picture of their throttle linkage setup on the carb and servo ends?  Just reading through the FAQ and realized I'm using a metal rod with metal posts with set screws on each end!  Wondering why this is bad?  Only 5 flights so far, but don't want anything to go wrong.

Syssa Aircraft

You can use metal rod...but it should be insulated in some way. The best is a dubro 2-56 ball link. The hole in the carb arm accepts the 2-56 screw and the ball link, screw, nut and 2-56 x 1 threaded rod is included in the engine box. All you need to do is thread some golden rod into it, do the same to the servo side and you are....golden. Hope that helps!

Slow and Steady

Set screws may loosen; I use ball links at both ends and a Sullivan Nyrod. It is my understanding that the metal rod contacting other metal parts can cause radio interference. Although, I think that is only an issue with 72 MHZ and not 2.4, but don't quote me.

Syssa Aircraft

I think that is correct as well for 72 mhz. Its never a good idea to have metal to metal contact in a pushrod system for longetivity as well.
Someone please correct me, but most metal to metal contact would result in roughly 300 mhz and lower...which obviously gets in the 72 range. (yet another advantage of 2.4)

Dubro ball links at each each is preferred...although I have used the Dubro heavy duty clevis (one end has black plastic body with plated pin and lock) with very good success. This is only to be used where the pin has a very nice light press fit into the servo arm. I always use a ball link on the engine side. Its a super easy install and lasts a long time.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Here is how I did mine.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

50%,

Is the 60 in production or are you having some strong wishful thinking?

MsgtRob

The winds finally died down today so got my first flight in on the PT-17. It flies/looks great. The SAP180 is an excellent match and will only get better as she breaks in.

Only incident besides scuffing the wing tip in a cross wind landing, was the screw came off one of my elevator servos and let the arm loose. That left me with only half an elevator to fly..other than having to retrim the elevator a few times I didn't know it was disconnected!
Landed fine and just need to replace the screw and loctite it in. So glad I set it up with dual elevator servos!

Post Flight Edit: Both muffler screws backed off about 1/4 turn and the muffler was loose. I thought the nordlocks were bullet proof....?

50%plane

My Feedback: (5)

I'm just waiting on the email with a link to order mine! Maybe Todd wants to say something here....????


Last rumor I heard was that they were in testing, and would be shipping this year, and hopefully within a month.... but that's a rumor....

irshaad07

Got an email from Todd yesterday


"Thank you! We are looking to have the twin 60 ready for the middle of September..."

Better wait a little more guys

Irshaad

MsgtRob

Few more flights on the Steerman and another loose muffler. I'll be pulling the engine, drilling the bolt heads and safty wiring. Other than that, a good day of flying.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I've been using a drop of red loctite on mine with pretty good luck. The only time mine loosens is when I do something stupid and usually includes removing some dirt from the cooling fins...

MTK

Had loosening problems too until I took GHoffman's suggestion and used Nordlocks. I've had great success with Nordlocks plus Loctite UltraCopper hi temp silicone used in combination. I tighten to at least 30 foot pounds. Bolts are also dipped in Ultra Copper. Allows removal without heating but stays locked until I want to remove.

Curious, how will you run wire into the muffler's mounting holes? Are boltheads exposed?

Joystick TX

I'm using Nordlocks plus Loctite UltraCopper and a piece of 1/8 ply to keep the screws from backing out completely. I still need to tighten them about 1/4 turn for each hour and a half of flying. I had a problem even with safety wired bolts. If I can find a drill that will work on the bolts, I may add that again.

I flew a lot today, I may redo the Ultra Copper from scratch and make sure there is plenty in the muffler holes and on the bolts. Could be I'm not using enough.