XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

List of Parts, Hop Ups and Mods:

3Racing Diff Outer Joint for TT-01 (Diff Cups)
3Racing Red Aluminum 4mm Serrated Locknuts
4C Hobby Supply Blue 7075 Aluminum Hex Bolts M3x10 Socket and Flat
AVID and Stock Ball Bearings
Dubro Black Hex Bolts 3MMx15, 3mmx20 Socket
Expert 6" Y Harness (To Split Channel 1 for Steering and Turret Servos)
FlySky FS-GT3B TX & RX (Also For My HPI e10).
GPM Alloy front and rear lower A arms
GPM Blue Aluminum Battery Chip w/ Heatsink
GPM Blue aluminum DF-02 Rear Shock Towers (For Both Front and Back)
GPM Blue Aluminum Front and Rear Knuckle Arms
GPM Blue Aluminum Main Shaft
GPM Blue Aluminum Main Shaft CVD Joint
GPM Blue Aluminum Steering Assembly
GPM Blue Aluminum Tie-Rod Turnbuckle
GPM Racing blue Aluminum Tie Rod Turnbuckle for TT-01 (Used Larger For Steering Servo)
GPM Roadtech 100mm Oil Filled Shocks.
GPM Titanium King Pin Screws
Hi-Tech HS-311 Standard Servo (For Steering)
Hi-Tech HS-55 Feather Servo (For Turret)
Hobbywing EZRUN 13T/SL-3650M Brushless Motor
HobbyWing EZRUN-35A Brushless ESC with LED Program Card
Hot Bodies (HPI) Aluminum Steering Servo Horn (For Hitec servos)
HPI 4mm Body Pins
K&S Engineering 507 1/8 Music wire (For The U-Shaft Mod)
Parma Carbon Fiber Decal (For Ascents Here and There)
Scotch Fasteners Dual Lock (To Mount RX and ESC)
Tamiya 16T/17T Pinion Set (Currently Using 70 Spur & 17T pinion)
Tamiya Bevel Gear Set for TT-01
Tamiya DF-03 Steel Front & Rear Swing Shaft
Tamiya Metal Motor Mount
Testor Olive Drab Spray Paint (For The Chassis Paint)
Traxxas 2.8 Talon Tires On All-Star Black Chrome wheels.
Traxxas Connectors.
Traxxas Hex wheel Hubs
Yeah Racing Aluminum Solid Axle (Lock Rear Diff)
Yeah Racing Twin Fan Heat Sink (Connected To RX)


Mods
Custom Body Post Placement
Painted Chassis
M3 Hex Bolt Mod All Around
DJNELSEN's U-Shaft Mod

Future Mods
LED Lighting
Turret Movement
Working Winch
Warthog 'Hub Caps'

pcsguy88

How is the modified front shock tower working? I'm ready to order my parts and that is the last decision to make.

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

It works great! Feels sturdier too. It's tricky cause you the bolts hold the tower and the turnble ball joints.

pcsguy88

Do I use the DF-02 64mm shafts or the DF-03 68mm ones? I did measure and they do appear to be 68mm long, but not sure if I'm measuring correctly.

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

I used the DF-03 68mm CVDs. And you're gonna need:

Tamiya 51008 TT-01 Bevel Gear Set - one for each diff.

Tamiya 53790 Cup Joint for Universal Shaft For TT01/DF02 - one for each diff.
( I actually used 3Racing TT01-02 from the Toyz.com)

But between you and me, next time I'm gonna go with the regular alloy diff cups and dogbones.
I'm not too happy with this configuration. The rear diff is locked and works great.
But the front diff has these parts and don't always spin the wheels.
I love the simplicity of the standard parts, but improved with alloy parts.
I'm sure others will chine in on this, but this is my opinion based on the experience I've had.

The fixed joint can and will break. I did on me.

(See POST 911 in the Monster XX forum)

pcsguy88

That's the whole reason I'm rebuilding, I broke the rear cup that holds the wheel on. Maybe I'll just get the alloy replacement because functionally, I'm perfectly happy with it's stock performance. The aftermarket tires made all the difference in the world. I've learned from my tanks that complicating it is not always better.

XGAMER777

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Check out Dragonii's Monster XX project at the Monster XX forum.

Page 29 Post 724
Page 30 Post 737
Page 31 Post 762

He used the alloy diff cups and dogbones and has not complained.
And it's a 9T brushless system

Check out his video on Page 32 Post 786

pcsguy88

Ok, just dumped well over $100 at Asiatees and hope it all works out.

Front Shock Tower
Rear Shock Tower
Front C Hub
Front Knuckle
Rear Knuckle
3pk of Tie-rods
Steering Kit
Diff Cups
75mm Shocks
100mm Shocks
Full Bearing Set

pcsguy88

Ok, that's just too fast. I run mine in the same size space and would like to do more than turn every .08 seconds.

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

Oops... You got the front shock tower? I don't know if you realize it, but the front
Monster XX tower and the front stock shock tower are way different.

In the pictures you can see the stock rear tower (top) and the difference between the
Front MXX shock tower (middle) and the stock front DF-02 shock tower (bottom).
The stock front DF-02 shock tower is much shorter cause it's for a buggy.
The MXX tower is taller for a monster truck configuration.

What I learned (from Dragonii) is that you use a REAR shock tower and modify it with
a Dremel to look like the picture (cut out the red area). It works!
Also, as he suggested, this allows using 100mm shocks on all four corners!

Did you get two 3 paks of the turnbuckles they are actually a set of 3 different sizes.

Here are the pics:

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

You may want to later on invest on the alloy main shaft and main shaft cups
as the plastic main shaft is a joke.

SyCo_VeNoM

You know I actually run the plastic shaft on my buggy still, and its been standing up to brushless power quite fine, along with the stock cups for it
I actually was kinda shocked it stood up to the abuse(and still does) myself

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

LOL Syco! You madman! I'll tell you what...
I'll keep my plastic main shaft as a backup to the alloy one. Ok?

SyCo_VeNoM

well was just saying its a tad stronger than most would think

pcsguy88

Yeah, I have no plans to mess with the internals until something fails.

As for the front shock tower, I much prefer the shorter angled shocks on the front like the stock MXX and that picture confirms my suspicions that they were the same, just missing the upper holes for the body mounts. Thankfully I have a spare Warthog shell and can rethink how I connect it.

About the tie rods, I thought it came with 2 of one size and the 3rd is shorter. I only wanted them for the steering rods. Am I mistaken?

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

Hhmmm... sorry my mistake... You're ok.

pcsguy88

Xgamer, will you sell me a wheel hub? It's the one piece I broke and need replaced and the one piece that asiatee just mailed me to tell me they have none in stock.

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah Asiatees seems to do that all the time...
Say it's in stock and it's not! Unprofessional!

What do you mean wheel cup? where the wheel spins?

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

This?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ALUMINUM-F-R-WHE...item19c5e02ac0

I have the original plastic one... But I was saving for when I rebuild my Monster XX.

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

What I did was email them and asked them to cancel
the out-of-stock items in my order and ship what was in stock.

Then I hounded them for weeks to refund that amount to my
Paypal account.

I then ordered the parts from RCDAMPER on eBay (the link above).
They are excellent! Ordered lots of parts from them and RCMART.
You will probably get the RCDAMPER stuff before the Asiatees order too.

pcsguy88

Yep, that's the part. the axle broke right where the pin goes thru it. I'll try the rcdamper route, thanks.

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

Many places still carry this part. Fusion Hobbies in the UK and a few places 'down under' carry it. No worries.

XGAMER777

My Feedback: (1)

Ok. djnelsen here at this forum:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10089079/tm.htm

Came up with a mod to reinforce his DF-02 tub chassis
after serveral instances of broken chassis. I used his mod
on my DF-02. It was suprisingly easy to do (especially for
a newbie like myself).

I also used alloy A-arms which I had to drill out for it to work.
Used K&S Engineering 507 1/8 Music wire which is quite thicker
than the standard U-shaft. Used a drill to make bigger openings
on the chassis and painted the new U-shafts the same olive drab
green as the chassis.

Here are some photos:

PART 1

XGAMER777

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PART 2

XGAMER777

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PART 3